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About to put an order into Woolies for some trim bits. Which door piping / seal do I need? There's two sizes.
Also, what about the wing edge covering?
I also noticed that everyones put some sort of rubber trim around the edge of the inside door skin - where is that from?
A rough estimate on how much carpet I need would be good. I'm not to good at that sort of thing - I tend to measure up, get it wrong and either end up coming just short or have square miles left over. (You ought to see how much leather cloth I have!)
Patrick - do I need to lay some sound deading material down?
About to put an order into Woolies for some trim bits. Which door piping / seal do I need? There's two sizes.
Also, what about the wing edge covering?
I also noticed that everyones put some sort of rubber trim around the edge of the inside door skin - where is that from?
A rough estimate on how much carpet I need would be good. I'm not to good at that sort of thing - I tend to measure up, get it wrong and either end up coming just short or have square miles left over. (You ought to see how much leather cloth I have!)
Patrick - do I need to lay some sound deading material down?
I used the standard Titanfast for the fibreglass edges (267A I think) and the minature one for the inside of the door (304). Both from woolies.
I still have the trim for the fibreglass if you would like it... already cut to length (Front and rear wings)
I also got the carpet wrong big time. I bought the cheapo stuff (like supplied by Marlin) but in black and far too much.
1. It looks cheap!
2. Bad choice of colour
3. It doesn't look very good on the bedroom floor lol...
I've just ordered several hectares of carpet. I've convinced myself that I'll need at least two attemts to get it right, so I'd better have some extra.
I've just ordered several hectares of carpet. I've convinced myself that I'll need at least two attemts to get it right, so I'd better have some extra.
I am away on business for a few days. I will sort it out when I get back.
Hmm... Not sure now. I know they didn't have it in grey at the time. Mine doesn't have any ribs on that I remember. I thought the "ribs" could be a problem when moulding it over the transmission tunnel - if you bend it parallel to the ribs you see the backing. I will have to dig out the paperwork and see if I can find the part number.
In any case the big thing is avoid black - it shows every spec of dust. When I re-do mine I may go for green giving me a black (leather cloth) and green interior.
As it doesn't have ribs, it should mould over the tunnel OK. She just said it's not for floors - which is fine, as I'm putting rubber matting down on the pans.
I don't mind black to be honest. I know it shows dirt, but I'll just have to keep it clean!
That's the stuff. One hint (should have mentioned before - sorry)
Use proper carpet fasteners (lift the dot?) on areas where you may want to lift it again (like on the transmission tunnel). It you stick it with spray adhesive, once it is stuck - it is really stuck (Like sh t to a blanket)
Also - I made templates for mine out of brown paper - seemed to work well.
Peter recommended me some foam sound-proofing underlay which I can thoroughly recommend too.
Having some extra carpet is no bad thing, I used the Marlin-supplied stuff and didn't have enough to do the boot.
I used spray carpet adhesive as I wasn't sure how strong the S/A might be.
As Robin says, that is great fun!
The foam not only deadens (sp?) the panel vibrations but it also makes the cockpit nice and soft when you get in and out and probably makes it cosey in winter (if i ever get to drive my poor car again!)
This is one aspect i'm really pleased I spent the time doing as my brother-in-law with a real original Lotus 7 couldn't believe how comfy and quiet my car was compared to his.
I had bought the Marlin trim set so used their carpet.
I think there are pictures of me glueing the stuff in on on my Flckr site.
Yes, I've ordered way too much. I think I could make a car cover out of it. For my Jag!
I ordered the mini door seal, but it's too small - I guess the rib that it sits on must be further away than yours Robin. I'll just have to order the bigger stuff and flog the small stuff on ebay. That or find an alternate use for it
I also splashed out on some enamel union jack badges to go above my exhaust escutcheons, and a chrome GB badge from the back. They're very nice.
Any tips on covering the panels in the leather cloth? I've Googled for guides, but nothing seems to be out there. I'm worried about geting the cloth to go round the rounded edges of the dash and the trim panels at the back.
Also - the bonnet edge rubbers - does this need to be glued in place for the SVA / IVA?
Hi Jason.
Attached is an extreemely poor diagram on how to do it. In the diagram the blue would be the panel and the red the leathercloth on the square panel cut diagonals at 45deg across the corners, leaving a margin to account for the thickness of the pannel.
For curved shapes cut a series of V s towards the panel, again leaving a margin to wrap around the panel.
Unless the curve is really tight the leather cloths should have some give.
And yes, the IVA manual explicitly states the trim should be glued on and not easily removable. (Athough my tester when initially failing the car suggested the glue need only be on the back of the mudguards so if it fell off it would not damage the gell coat).
that it's a chunkier seal, but I can't really make out which one it is
Yes, it's chunky and was supplied by Marlin.
Just popped into the garage and the rubber bit is about 20mm diameter 'unsquashed'.
I used contact adhesive to stick the vinyl cloth to the panels. You can get Evostick remover to clear up any errors but places like B&Q keep it under the counter at the check outs so you have to ask.
...peter
Like the gooster, I am at the trim stage-really see the car coming together.Could someone measure the check strap on the door?have seen straps on albert-jagger ltd website and hope it will be suitable.
I found the door seals to be a bit of a problem. On my car the door doesn't run parallel to the strip on the sill for mounting the seal. Very much closer at the front than the back. As a result the seal is squashed almost flat at the front and there is a small gap (about 3mm) at the back. I have/am solving this with the door cards which add about 4mm to the thickness of the door.
