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damn and blast, thought i had finished, only to find my clutch isn`t working to well.....its very soft and bites very low to the floor, tried to bleed it numerous times, but still bites low down, is this normall on these old heralds
I am led to believe it is a standard feature of many old Triumphs that the clutch doesn't disengage until you've got your foot pushed through the bulkhead.
I've got a pair on mine but I can't comment on what it does to the clutch biting point because my standard clutch master cylinder was leaking when I bought the car and I haven't yet got it running to see where it's at now.
I think we have all got these, maybe we should start to set up some "Group Buys"...
Funny thing ebay, some things are cheaper, even with postage, and some things are more expensive...it pays to shop around.
Back to the clutch issue - my vitesse with the old master cylinder, had the biting point near the middle-to-top. I have put the new master cylinder on and like Mr T have not bled the system yet to see what difference it makes.
It does sound like you have an issue....
Oh, I have bled the system and the slave cylinder operates when you depress the clutch pedal. Thing is though, I haven't put the wiring loom back in yet so I can't run the engine to try the biting point. I don't even know if the clutch plate is any good... Crossing my fingers at the moment.
I also had a problem with one of the master cylinders from the ebay chap - it didn't seem to have a hole from the resovoir to the outlet so you could pump the pedal all you liked and no fluid went down the pipe. I messaged the seller to say there was an issue and a replacement turned up 24 hours later. He even refunded my postage when I sent the defective one back. Excellent service as far as I am concerned.
OK Gents looks like i have found my problem with the clutch, removed the engine this morning, along with my sexy helper.. ie" the mrs" and we found the clutch plate was down to the rivets.
please guys learn from my mistake check before you put your the car back together. as i thought mine was finished and ready for the MOT...
but on a lighter note it only took a couple hrs to remove the engine....
yep removed the bonnet,after unclipping the headlight wiring loom, ok im lying i didnt unclip my wiring loom "used a pair of side cutters and sniped the wires" better use bullet connectors next time and not solder the wires together...
Depending on how you attach the gearbox cover to the floor and the tunnel, the easiest way to remove the gearbox should be through the interior of the car - that's how it's done on the Herald and Spit, usually easier than removing the bonnet and getting the engine out!
well of course if you're going to brick up the back door, it'll have to come through the front door ! ;-))
Baz
There are no doors at all Baz so hell of a job to do it that way. OK if you got the doors open to hang your legs out. Are you a midget or what!!
Ha ha!
A worn clutch normally bites at the top of pedal travel and a new one nearer the floor. I would think you must have air trapped in the system somewhere. However the clutch sounds worn out anyway so at least you haven't wasted your time taking it out. Make sure you put the clutch centre plate in the correct way round or it will never work. Also when bleeding press the pedal slowly down and back. Good luck.
Hi, I am in Plymouth. A way to check whether you have air in the hydraulics if you have access to the Clutch fork is to insert a tyre lever or pry bar and hold it against the arm so that it can't move. Then get someone to gently try the clutch pedal. It should be hard like a brake pedal as you are restricting any movement. If it's spongy and there is no movement at the fork then there is still air in the system.
well my new clutch is fitted guys along with new clutch housing and new thrust bearing, engine refitted, just need to refit my rad and fill with water for test....fingers crossed....
