This is a read-only archive of the old Madabout Kitcars forum. New posts and replies are no longer possible, but every thread is still here to browse and read.
The exhaust manifold bolts appear to be welded in place. Probably a combination of age, rust and heat cycling but anyway they are not budging. So, three simple questions for you wise people:
1) Before I strip the head and the skin from my knuckles, is there any simple trick I should know?
2) Second option is to leave the manifold in place and try to drill out the bolts which appear to have been cut off when the exhausts were removed. If I do this, I assume I can replace the bolt threading into the manifold with a simple nut and bolt. Any special type of nut and bolt to cope with the exhaust heat?
Probably teaching you how to suck eggs here but before doing anything too drastic I would try a LOT of WD40 left to penatrate and then heat on the surrounding area and get some more leverage on the spanner.
Probably teaching you how to suck eggs here but before doing anything too drastic I would try a LOT of WD40 left to penatrate and then heat on the surrounding area and get some more leverage on the spanner.
If that fails.............. your f**ked!
WD40 is the world's most expensive way of buying parafin!
Rust is water soluble and heat helps, so boiling water can be surprisingly effective.
As far as a penetrating lubricant goes, it's hard to beat a mix of ATF and acetone. Duck oil, Plus Gas, even 3-in-1 are all much better than WD40 for the job.
The safest heat sorce is a hot air paint stripper, preferably one with a set of nozzles to further concentrate the airflow.
If all else fails, split the nuts with a cold chisel or bolster. If you go down the side of the stud with the chisel you can often split the nut off without damaging the threads. The chisel needs to be a good one (many aren't) and very sharp.
WD40 is fish oil based from memory. Maybe not the best penetrating oil but comes easily to hand. I use a butane blow torch for heat, one of the little hand held ones with screw in cartridges.
Anyway, WD40, GT85, Blow torch and swearing haven't worked since I posted this.
Moving on to option 2 which is to drill a hole through the manifold where the bolt is rusted in.
Apart from being awkward to get at, is there any reason not to just drill a hole through and then use a nut and bolt to hold the exhaust on?
Just for reference this is an old 3 litre Essex V6 and it is only one side that has the problem.
I stand corrected on the Fish Oil theory. From Wikipedia:
WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product is not patented, to avoid completely disclosing its ingredients.[2][3] WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:
51% Stoddard solvent (i.e., mineral spirits: primarily hexane, somewhat similar to kerosene)
25% Liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant; carbon dioxide is now used instead to reduce WD-40's considerable flammability)
15+% Mineral oil (light lubricating oil)
10-% Inert ingredients
The German version of the mandatory EU safety sheet lists the following safety-relevant ingredients:
60–80% Heavy Naphtha (petroleum product), hydrogen treated
1–5% Carbon dioxide
It further lists flammability and effects to the human skin when repeatedly exposed to WD-40 as risks when using WD-40. Nitrile rubber gloves and safety glasses should be used. Water is unsuitable for extinguishing burning WD-40.
There is a popular urban legend that the key ingredient in WD-40 is fish oil.[4] However, the WD-40 web site states that it is a petroleum based product.[5][6]
Patton - Like the Fish Oil I had heard, largely a myth. Mate dug up an old Penny and dropped it in Coke to clean it. Barely dissolved the soil. Good as chrome cleaner though
Why are you taking it off?
Is it blowing or are you replacing it with a tubular manifold?
I gave up and removed the cyclinder heads to get better access then cut the heads off the bolts, although some came out when I had better access to exret so real torque. I then replaced the bolts with stainess cap head bolts for better access later.