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G46 Body alignment = photos and questions

31 Aug 2012, 1:18pm
There were holes in the shell for exhaust pipes but when I lines these up with my pipes, the body sits too low.


I am guessing that if I cut bigger holes for the pipes the shell will move forward and up so that the chassis (with the foam strips on) is covered by the shell. not sure where that leaves the fuel filler nozzle but that is a different thread,



This move forward would also put the bulkhead and humps above the frame.



The front rests on the bulkhead. I may need to adjust this as the bulkhead (re-enforced after an earlier mistake) is slightly higher than the original although this may help with under bonnet clearance



It isn't too clear but this shows the door shuts are sitting on the flat bit of the frame which suggests they are the right height.





QUESTION 1 : Is my idea about moving the shell upwards and forwards correct?
QUESTION 2 : Are the humps front edge meant to rest on the frame?


Any photos of Nike55s or similar appreciated.
31 Aug 2012, 1:28pm
1: Certainly it needs to be moved forward although im not sure what you mean about moving it up? Can the exhausts be ajusted slighlty to line up with the holes?
2: My understanding is that the front of the humps when the body is moved forward will sit just in front of the frame.
31 Aug 2012, 2:11pm
Thanks for the pictures they help a lot.

Body moved up so the rear edge of the boot can get above the rear chassis and cover the fuel filler.




Frame slightly behind and below the humps



But your body looks to be sitting lower. My door steps are above the sills at the back of the cockpit.



I will crawl into the back bit and see what is raising the body.

Thanks again for the photos.
31 Aug 2012, 4:24pm
Body position

WorldClassAccident wrote:
There were holes in the shell for exhaust pipes but when I lines these up with my pipes, the body sits too low.


I am guessing that if I cut bigger holes for the pipes the shell will move forward and up so that the chassis (with the foam strips on) is covered by the shell. not sure where that leaves the fuel filler nozzle but that is a different thread,



This move forward would also put the bulkhead and humps above the frame.



The front rests on the bulkhead. I may need to adjust this as the bulkhead (re-enforced after an earlier mistake) is slightly higher than the original although this may help with under bonnet clearance



It isn't too clear but this shows the door shuts are sitting on the flat bit of the frame which suggests they are the right height.





QUESTION 1 : Is my idea about moving the shell upwards and forwards correct?
QUESTION 2 : Are the humps front edge meant to rest on the frame?


Any photos of Nike55s or similar appreciated.


Nick

The body needs to be at last 50mm forward so the bottom edge of the boot lid is on the rear chassis rail and the rear bulk head sits over the square tube cross member. If you eye up the wheels within the wheel arches they may be off centre where you have the body positioned ?
1 Sep 2012, 7:48am
The body is sitting nicely with the wheels central to the arches and the rear of the boot opening covering the chassis, petrol tank opening under the piece shaped for the filler cap. The very front of the shell is resting nicely on the bulk head and has a couple of screws tacking it in place for the moment.

I am less happy about how the front of the frame is fitting against the body. The sharp corner is pushing directly onto the shell at the top while the bottom doesn't reach the flat angle to be supported.




It looks to me as if stepping on the door shut part of the shell would push the shell down and the sharp corner of the frame would push through the top.

A block of wood provides a temporary solution while I think about it / await suggestions.



Some good news is that a mate has a friend who can sort me out a piece of shaped angle steel to bolt in place of the stupidly removed door sills.
1 Sep 2012, 9:18am
WCA
Exactly the same issue existed with my Spyder the frame required some adjusting with an angle grinder where the body contacted the front cross member. Taking the corner off fixed this issue and allowed the body to sit lower and cut in under the sills
1 Sep 2012, 10:55am
I reckon grinding off the corner of the frame would reduce the chance of cracking but if you look in the middle photo at the gap between the botton of the door on the shell and the metal of the frame I would have to cut and reweld the complete frame about an inch lower.
1 Sep 2012, 7:32pm
Body alingment

Nick

Go to my thread G48V8Mk1 and look around page 5, you will see that the fibre glass door cills sit on the stainless angle, infact we bolted them to it.

We did cot the 90 deg frames at a big angle only just leaving the weld in place and then packed them with rubber strips before the body sat on them. Those 90deg corners will go thru the body as soon as look at it.

Trawl thru out thread I am sure there are some helpful photos on there.