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Hi guys. Thought it's about time I did a build thread of the cabby.
The strip down wasn't that bad.
The supports needed rewelding and the bolt holes majorly opening up.
The mk1 golf headlight spots not bad but the front indicators were rubbish. Just ended up bonding them in. Bumper mounting is poor so will get on making some brackets when it's got a correct possition. (In all fairness the bumper and bonnet on the evo200 was a lot better)
Bonnet wise I bonded the cowls on then the golf mk2 headlights. There not sitting nice so will have to have another stab when it's all solidly mounted. Front and back just tec screwed on as it's all set off the sills and doors.
I use Flickr as a respository for my build photos, dragged and dropped them in to it, then linked to them in a message by copying the share link on each photo with the BBCode.
Hope it helps and looking forward to seeing some pic's!
Hi Luke, I had a look at your pics on the rs200 Facebook page. I was the one that asked about the green stuff Your build looks like it's coming along well and the cabriolet version looks pretty cool. What have you done with your roof section? Bet you could get some good money on eBay. I use photobucket for rehosting my photos.
Luke, you can create an album on the forum here ( look under community , pictures and albums) and then include links to the pictures on your posts. That's what I've done so far for my MRS200 build thread.
Your Converible version looks to be coming along well and looking forward to seeing it with the doors and sills on.
hi luked 2189 re your mrs200 head lights i mounted mine by f/glsssing 4 long 8mm bolts with the heads cut off and a shaped steel plate welded to the end glassed over in the correct position to line up with the 4 holes in the mk 2 golf headlight brackets held in place with 2 lock nuts on each stud this allows for later adjustment also thy lift with bonnet as per original works fine then lenghhen wires to suit i lined beams up roughly at home against garage door took it for mot (known my mot man for years ) told him they might need adjusting when he checked them only o/s needed to come up about 3 turns on adjusters < result > muth easier than fitting them to the car and trying to line them up with the holes in my opinion, have fun, mick .
Mick, can you let me know what rear lights you used underneath the clam that show when the clam is lifted? I've been looking at doing the same thing you did in replicating these as per the original. Thanks
hi swifty i used some lights off a trailer board the square type about 98mm square and mounted them on the new clam support i made above the rear bumper bar and used the rear number plate wiring for the supply thru a switch moumted just in front of the header tank so they can be switched on / off from rear when clam is up i then took new number plate wiring from each tail light feed
that is how ive done mine too, bonded to the cowls. got to get the tape out as i can live with them being 3-5mm too low but theres a good 13mm defference in protrusion. i'll keep taking pics on the phone then try uploading them sometime.
i know what you mean i had a few goes at getting them right i stuck the long bolts to inside of bonnet with a blob of body filler so i could get em off again to re position took two or three goes till they were right then glassed em in fiddly, but worth it in the end. much neater i think.i also glassed some f/glass corner braces into the bonnet each side of headlights to stiffen the front corner up you can see one in atatched images, above. on here.
HI Luke, I saw on the Facebook page that you'd attacked your doors. Just wondering if you could post the picture again on here as I've lost it on fb. Don't suppose you've got pictures from other angles too?
If your on face ache I can buzz you loads over messenger. Basically fast cut across the lower protruding line (it's on the skunt) . Door card off. Lower window and whip off mirror. Window up, whip handle and lock out. Sill trim and kick panel off. Unplug and feed out wiring. Check strap off and then the 12's for hinges. Flip door and remove seal. fast cut across the line that follows the seal. Bash panel to right angle, support later to help with new outer skin alignment. Cut about 3" across and from glass seal down the rear lip. Trim a bit more lower edge round the lock to clear sierra stuff. Inenner rear edge kinda follows seal line. Remount door and then try new skin. Won't be far off. Set it off the front edge
No probs . PM on Facebook messenger and I'll send all I have door related. Basically it's line straight across above inner seal. Bash it up to a right angle. outer Line follows bottom protrusion line. Back edge outer is pretty much top seal straight down. Inner back edge follows the seal edge again.