I've previously used primer directly over filler and had no problems but I'll give Dolphin Glaze a try.

Unfortunately : "REFACE is not recommended for use over ... etch primers." which I've already applied. It's that coating that has revealed the pinholes.

I found someone on youtube using the plastic ruler method of applying filler. Shows how effective it is !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=paB6uHlRgMY

I really like that idea, thanks for the tip!

Got what I asked for
 

The new V5C registration document has just arrived. Great relief to see that the Make has been confirmed as TRIBUTE TARGAFLORIO - that's just what I'd asked for. The colour has now changed to black officially.
Any enquiries on the database via gov.uk now show that whereas it will probably remain a BMW Z3 on the MOT Testing Station system.

Should have called it a "Kim Kardashian"

Great front but a bit big and droopy in the rear!

The MOT examiner can update the vehicle details to that shown on the make and model on the V5.

The Aerosol Grey Machine (with apologies to VdGG)
 

A good morning today. Most GRP panels now have etch primer and most of the steel panels have zinc primer.
I'm now a fan of Dolphin Glaze. Very easy to use and sand. Goes off a bit quick for me- seems difficult to use too little hardener but a super product.
I'm also using a large "Scotchbrite" sanding pad. It's ideal for de-nibbing and a final light smoothing before the tack rag and paint.

So I capitulated on the paintwork and took the car along to the guy who painted the Z300S to see what a pro job in black would cost. He came back with a quotation for an amount that I can live without so we are now in the queue behind a 1970s VW Beetle and a DeTomaso Mangusta.

Great news, a cheap paint job really ruins a good build.
This will make such a difference.

Agreed. He made two observations- with a rattle can, by the time you've finished a spraying stroke, the paint at the beginning is too dry for the gloss to form when you start the next. Also, the nozzle can't deliver the amount of pigment required for a good finish.

Having heard that, I have seen some decent spray jobs done with them but the amount of work required in multiple coats and mopping would make it a labour of love.

Exhausting?
 

Another piece in the appearance jigsaw.
I assembled this from the parts and got it TIGed locally by an absolute ace. Needed a slight tweak to get it to the right position laterally but all on now. The hangers need trimming and I may remove them and spray matt black to hide them a bit.
Soundwise- a bit boomy in the mid-range but certainly liveable with the hood down- so for me- most of the time.

Looks good too Ian ! Probably saved 20 KG's in weight, the standard box is so heavy ! Did you remove the solid steel lumps behind the bumper, I did when I built mine last year. No idea why they are there, probably minus another 20 KG's with them gone 1

That silencer I removed weighs 12.5kg. The one from my 2.8 weighs slightly less...Neither cars have the anti-resonance weights. I have had them on other convertibles, presumably to damp body vibrations.

Unfettled and ready for paint.

Professionally prepared, primered and awaiting top coat.
Apparently my trial aerosol gloss on the lower edges of the doors was a waste- it all had to come off.

The expensive bit.
 

Fettled just enough to get it home in the rain.

IanA - Got to love reflections of clouds overhead in fresh paint. :cool:

Very nice!

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...1&d=1636393495

Good luck putting everything back together.

Cheers, Paul. :)

Thanks. Yes it's a nice job and I'm very pleased with it.
The tractor in the other pic is painted to the same standard and wins prizes!!!

Looks great Ian, the gloss finish sets it off well ! Some photos please when its all done !

Er, looks like a McCormick International B250...according to tractor nerd that I might know. Could be a B275...

Paintwork looks great on both. More pics.

Very impressive, brave to paint a GRP car black but it looks as if you have pulled it off.
Black makes a great background for chrome, Spursfanin a coupe had a pair of chrome door handles for sale recently, add a set of chrome wires for maximum bling.

Yes Jag, my man did a super job. You were right about the benefits of a pro job. The chrome outer door trim tabs broke up whilst I was refitting them...
Chrome wires would take more cleaning/polishing than I'd be prepared to give them. That's why my Z300S has stainless. I'll be keeping the alloys. Although I do have a spare set of painted wires...

It's a D250 Diesel, built at the Jowett factory. Are you off to the Newark Vintage Tractor and Heritage Show on November 13 and 14??? 900 tractors expected!!!
It'll be there.

Chrome powder coated wired look very good and need no maintenance,
My chromes wires were given a couple of coats of polish when they were fitted about 4 years ago, it lives outside and all I have done to clean them is snow foam and a hose. The most important thing to fit is EBC green stuff pads, they contain no metal, it is the metal particles in the pads that sit on the wheels and rusts, when it rust the rust transferes to the cjrome.

Sounds like my kind of finish- local supplier?

Wow!

Stunning - especially for GRP. You must be stoked!

Hi Ian
I imported 5 sets but they have all been sold but have another batch of 20 wheels and spinners that should be here by March, the lead time at the moment is 8 months! The last ones were £1500 a set of four including hubs and spinners. These will be a bit more due to the massive rise in shipping costs, my shipping costs won't be known until they ship.
The wheels and hubs have been made solely for the Z3, 15x6 so you don't that ridiculous hot rod/muscle car look at the back. They sit inside the wheel arches on all 4 corners and don't catch on the arches. The hubs can be removed at the side of the road using a standard wheel brace and the bolts that hold the hub on are used to attach the original space saver wheel. I hate going on a long journey without a spare wheel, the last 2 pictures I had were caused by potholes which damaged the side walls, both tryes couldn't be inflated using sealant and both had to be replaced.
I also have some billet CNC'd triple eared spinner removal tools, you can remove the spinners with a long bar and a socket easily and without damage. The spinners are stainless so won't be marked by the alloy removal tool.
https://i.postimg.cc/44Q9F4jD/IMG-4509.jpg

If you already have some wires then the cheapest option is chrome powder coating, it is quite stunning when done to a good standard, it also is tough and hard wearing,

Tru Wire?

I'm not familiar with Tru Wire. I had these made in China, It was a bit of a leap of faith to spend so much money on something that could have been poor quality or even worse not fit due to my measurements.
When they came in I took them down to my tyre guy to put them on his balancing machine to see how good or bad they were. As luck would have it there was a mobile tyre fitter is who fits all the tyres for southern classics who specialise in Jags, Healeys etc and is an expert on wire wheels. After he had run them all up he asked me where I had got them from as he said they were probably the best set of wires he had come across, wires alays are slightly out of balance and true but these were as close to perfecr that he had come accross. Breathed a deep sigh of relief, next unknown was how good was the chrome, mine have been fitted for over 3 years, never garaged and used in all weathers. Up to now there is not a single speck of rust on them.
One thing the expert was very impressed with was the "drive pegs", these sit around the hub and on the inside of the wheel, much stronger than splines and will take much more power.
The whilst being heavy compared with alloy wheels are about half the weight of MWS bolt ons.

I have Tru-Wire wheels on my Tribute 250 SWB. Identical to yours, even the packaging. China made also. My tire guy also remarked on the balance and overall quality. 72 spoke 15x7.

New appearance, new identity:
https://i.postimg.cc/k25ZRjFw/DSCF1989b.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/62C1xFt6/DSCF1992a.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/Ny3PVQhP/DSCF1994a.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/gXVhnQJx/Ferrar...Berlinetta.jpg

Looks great!

Grassbanks is doing a stainless steel grill surround, I don't know how much but it won't be cheap. On the DNA's the stainless steel surrounf=d makes an amazing difference. Now you have spent all that money on the paint you can't be a "Cheap Charlie" on the shiny bits:tape2:

Did I mention the interior yet?

Now that I have spent all my money on the paint it will stay as it is for a while.
I particularly enjoy the interior as it is. I've never planned but to keep it standard.

I know what you mean, BMW spent millions developing the interior and people rip it out and fit seats designed 70 years ago for an MGB. Sheer madness and nowhere near as comfortable, but they do look good!

I can live the Z3 interior if its all black. Beige needs to be ripped out and thrown straight in the bin ! A nice wood rimmed steering wheel is enough for me although I did do seats and door cards along with removal of the plastic bits between the seats on my 275 convertible. I only did that because there was a long wait for the body kit to be supplied !

Looks great Ian!

Glad my second bonnet went to a good home.

Completely disagree with "nowhere near as comfortable" and having had a set fitted for the last 12m actually have personal experience . PS sorry Ian for thread hijack , Geoff .

No problem. I had some cobra style seats made for the Z300S- custom leather/colour and all. I need a round tuit in order to fit them. I've just taken the passenger seat out to dry the undercarpet foam a bit and the electrics don't look the same as the TFS. The yellow socket is not used and there's a "module" under the seat with different plugs. It's an MY2000 car and their electrics were a bit different for some reason. The ABS is not the usual type either.

Every Z3 i have built with the foam was wet , perhaps thats how they build them!!! Geoff .