So 'What would you do different'?
 

Thank you for the support one and all.

This next question will be of interest to all current and new builders.

So if you started again what would you do different, not start is not an option.

Topics of interest:-

Fit the drive shafts straight?
ABS (yes/no)?
Upgraded brakes at build?
Move the engine as far to Nearside as you can on installation?
Add sound insulation as you build up not as an afterthought?
Fit a quick rack at build?

Absolutly do not do.......


Cheers

My Answers

Topics of interest:-

Fit the drive shafts straight? - Yes must be done (its fairly easy to)
ABS (yes/no)? No!! Be a man just have master cyclinders:D
Upgraded brakes at build? YES!! No comment required
Move the engine as far to Nearside as you can on installation? (Depends how tight the engine is (mine has 5mm either side)
Add sound insulation as you build up not as an afterthought? Cant Comment
Fit a quick rack at build? Yes but think it is mainly standard 2turns lock-lock is what I have.

Absolutly do not do.......
Forget to ask for help:D:D

!!

My thoughts

Drive shafts, don’t think I could without changing mountings, or engine very pitched, not a prob for me, although I have noticed they are more angular on the VVC PG1 box, I have the 1600 K with the standard R65 Box.

ABS, I have considered it, the lockups though do get less as the brakes settle.

Upgrade brakes, not something I have considered since the build, standard do for me.

Move engine, Why?

Sound insulation, I have carpeted all inside, so yes probably have added some insulation.

Rack, the metro rack seems ok for me.

Suggestions.

If the floor is not yet fitted, mark out whatever you are to use to fill the gaps in the chassis, I used the marlin provided flooring, seemed ok. This is just a matter of ease, for later.

Consider the new rear suspension, although I do not know anyone who has driven the car with the new setup, it does seem better designed, and hopefully remove the skittish feeling when throttling back at high speed.

If you have feet above maybe size 9, only a guess, you may explore a mod on the pedal box, Marlin do it for about £35, they did it for me, although the pedals still needs abit of bending as they managed to cock that up. If you can weld, do it yourself.

Rear brake disks, either enlarge the hole over the drive flange on the disks, or machine flat the drive flange where the lip is near the centre, Marlin decided not to share that one with its builders. If you go for their new /
Subject to your SVA centre, it maybe worth getting a non air bag Rover steering wheel as the guidance is if fitted, you must be able to dem how the air bag deploys.

Stick to standard seat belts for SVA, the Marlin bar has failed at, at least one centre.

I am sure there are a number of other issues I came across during the build, but I cant think of them at the moment.

I just would close with don’t expect to much from Marlin, and then you wont be disappointed.

Steve

I just would close with don’t expect to much from Marlin, and then you wont be disappointed.

Steve[/QUOTE]

:amen:

Agreed.

As to the original question:

- ditch the pod style dash vents
- don't use a cable clutch
- pull the braking bias back a bit with rover 260mm rear discs
- don't use Marlin's standard k-series double balljoint engine torque controlling rod
- fit some form of wheel arch liner front and rear to stop debris shooting down the side panels
- mod the suspension bushes to minimise stiction
- stiffen the dash, as it's hellishly flimsy as standard
- mod the pedals to suit your feet - Marlin modded mine originally, and they clashed with the column
- brace (stiffen) the steering column mount
- be cautious of wheel offset, and wheels protruding beyond bodywork
- consider the new style rear suspension - much stiffer
- fit quality coolant hoses, not the domestic plumbing stuff Marlin supply
- get your header tank as high as you possibly can
- modify the dash to windscreen interface to fit
- consider using POR15 or a similarly tough paint / finishing material on the suspension components - the powder coat, really is powder!
- source what you can privately

That's the sort of infomation I am looking for....

The sort of stuff I can change now before its too late.

First class by reply

response from marlin sports cars
 

Marlin have never expected people to buy all their parts from us, only the parts that we make which are specific to the car and can not be sourced elsewhere. We acknowledge that by spending time and effort shopping around and you can possibly find a cheaper price from a breakers or online. Buying the parts from Marlin however guarantees that you are then using the correct parts for your car and saves you the time and effort of purchasing from multiple sources.

We would also like to reply to the following remarks regarding the racing
side of the business.

"If Marlin can fit a complete new back-end onto marks race car and swap
everything over and have it running 4-5 weeks later, why cant they produce
the kits quicker?"
"Perhaps that's rhetorical - the race car is prioritised, at the expense of
kits?"

During the course of the race season our sponsors, our race customers and their sponsors expect that the Marlin race cars will be competing at every race meeting of the season. The 5EXi is competing against the likes of Ferrari, Mazda, Caterham etc in the highly competitive Castle Combe Special GT Championship. This provides us with one of the best opportunities to further enhance the performance and handling of the car quickly and safely, the benefits of this are incorporated into the kits we produce and to any existing owner wishing to take advantage of the latest developments.

Kind Regards
Terry and Mark