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Also , am I the only one who chuckles everytime someone mentions the Rimmer Bros. !! |
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private school boys hey you two?
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Robin |
I, as well as a few others who did their builds at the same time as me went for a 1" lowering block AND Swing Spring conversion and we generally found that gave a very good ride height with a not too bumpy ride.
But i'll admit that it wasn't the cheapest of solutions!! :) |
I've kept the swing axles as they came out of the factory. I've been through a few different setups, but I've now settled (excuse the pun) on removal of the top three loose leaves from the stack, plus one leaf out of the next stack down (the one that's clamped to the main spring with 'U' clamps and bolts underneath), with no lowering blocks fitted at all. That's given me the right ride height for my tyres and a very compliant ride. The handling is also spot on with no discernible roll, while you can drive it much faster than when it had hard suspension because the tyres stay in contact with the road instead of jumping off all the time.
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thanks Martin, Dave, Mr T.
Martin when you took a leaf out of the swing spring stack what did that do to the "hat" that the 4 studs bolt through - removing a leaf will reduce the thickness of the stack and does that leave too much "slack" in the stack? with the herald stack removal of leaves was easy, but not sure about the swing setup - if i did i am thinking of the middle leaf (third from top and bottom). do you have a photo? Mr T i have already bought the swing spring kit so i'm going to use it!! when you removed a leaf that was u-bolted on, what did you then do with the u-bolt - shim it or sleeve it or leave it? Dave did you need longer studs with a +1" block? I also have no backplate for my front spit3 disks - problems? i dont really want to pay 45GBP for each back plate from my friends who bring primer and oxford such amusement. thanks again guys. |
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As for getting the right length securing bolts for the spring stack you end up with, below is copied from my build thread dated 16th November 2011 (page 7) - A while back I asked if anyone knew what thread type the rear spring to differential mounting bolts were. I got a couple of different answers Gary J said 3/8" UNF while a couple of others said 3/8" UNC, so I identified a 3/8 UNF bolt removed from my chassis and it didn't fit. By a prociss of elimination I ordered enough 3/8 UNC threaded rod to make new studs for my extra lowered lowering block. When the UNC rod arrived it didn't fit. I tried a new UNF bolt and it fitted. Checked the supposedly UNF bolt from my chassis that I'd used as a gauge and found that someone had used a UNC where it should've been UNF. I can confirm, therefore, that the studs/bolts for the rear diff are 3/8" UNF. No harm done, though, I'll be using the spare UNC rod in my handbrake mechanism. Good luck getting the stance/ride/handling how you want them. :icon_cool: |
If memory serves me right, i got longer bolts with the lowering block
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Thanks gents. Here's a pic of my rear, prior to tying down the spring
http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...psamdmaywv.jpg |
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snigger.... |
Nice work 1iTim, i hope to be at that stage pretty soon, the finned drum will look cool on the car.:cool:
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I have the wheelstuds, heres why they look like on the back:http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1i...tml?sort=3&o=1
And now with the rear on: http://s1332.photobucket.com/user/1i...tml?sort=3&o=0 http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/...psxbcqpoe2.jpg These were freelander studs, but caution they are 13mm at base not the imperial size, but they do go on. |
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We buy from the same tool shop. That is how I did my lugs. It worked just fine and was quicker than I'd anticipated.
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That reminds me... i need a new drive belt for my lathe!! :)
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time for a question; the disc brake conversion stub axles are about 1/4 inch longer than the old ones which means the greas caps dont engage with the hub due to not clearing the axle and nut. does anyone know of hub grease caps that have the same base as the herald/spit caps but a higher 'dome'?
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