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EXI Turbo 17th October 2018 13:22

Which Steering Rack.
When I ordered my kit many years ago I specified a 'quick rack' but now I am wondering if that along with the small steering wheel is making it a little twitchy for general road use so want to change it.

Does anyone know which rack I would need to replace it with ?

And maybe replacing it / refitting will fix a couple of other problems I have been ignoring.

1. when I am on full lock (e.g. maneuvering) the suspension rubs on the inside of the wheel on the passenger side but gets no where close on the drivers side which does not appear to turn anywhere near as tightly.

2. I notice when I am driving on a straight road the steering wheel sometimes sits at 12 o'clock the next time 10 past 12, then without any adjustment the next time I take it out it will be back at 12 o'clock. Everything seems tight.

Any advice gratefully received


Leadfoot 17th October 2018 18:29

Steering rack
Hi Nick, take everything I say with a pinch of salt but...

I believe, based on the tie rod ends I bought for mine, that the steering rack is from a Metro.
I recently changed my 280mm steering wheel for a 320mm one. I personally think it feels better.

1) Is the steering rack set on centre?

2) Check your clearance between the front tyre and arch both before and after a drive. I found that I had a weak spring on the passenger side causing the tracking to keep changing during a drive but back to centre the day after. Carrying a passenger also caused the tracking to go out as well.

That's it. Hope it helps.

EXI Turbo 20th October 2018 15:51

Thanks for your reply.

I think I am going to replace the quick rack for a standard rack (and make sure it is centred) and probably change my little momo wheel for a larger one.

Although the car does feel better fully loaded the wheel rubbed occasionally against the arch on uneven motorways at speed . Ride height is set at 14cm. Maybe springs are a little tired a need replacing ? Anyone know what the best lbs setup is for the front ?


limpabit 29th October 2018 10:59

Rack is from a metro. But track rod end threads are imperial. Have part number of them on box in garage if anybody needs it. Caused a rattle fit if using metic version.

Also, when I got the custom suspension done. I needed the rack lengthened. While there, needed a complete recondition as rack needed it. Made a big difference.

EXI Turbo 29th October 2018 19:01

Thanks for the reply

I am about to start striping it down and rebuilding it with new rack & track rod ends so any numbers would be helpful. I am also going to try and refit the Marlin ARB which was fowling on the suspension when on full lock. I had to take it off for the mot and haven't looked at it since.

And finally what weight springs are you running if you don't mind me asking.


Leadfoot 30th October 2018 11:42

Track rod end
I'm pretty sure that the Metro track rod ends I ordered (which didn't rattle on the threads as mentioned by Limpabit) were Quinton Hazell parts, Ref No. QR2381S

limpabit 11th November 2018 13:17

Sorry for the delay.

I have qr1823 and qr1924s on the boxes I have. Not sure what the differences are.

EXI Turbo 11th November 2018 19:51

I have been having a frustrating time trying to remove the old steering rack. Although it is all undone I can't wiggle it out. Not sure how much I need to remove, petrol tank, brake servo etc.

limpabit 11th November 2018 20:45

You should be able to get it out, once fuel tank is removed.
I’ve got the large fuel though so not sure if your able to remove with smaller tank.

EXI Turbo 14th November 2018 18:59

Just spent another few hours on the rack and still no luck. Suspension arms,shocks and springs off even removed the steering column as I could get the UV joint off (bolt rounded off)

The tank although making it awkward to get to it doesn't seem to be the problem. It is stopped by the bracket that holds the U bolt in position and the two vertical chassis bars.

I think I am going to have to remove the brake servo and maybe chop a bit of the firewall out. Or chop out the U bolt bracket and weld back after but I don't fancy that.

At this point I wish I hadn't started !

limpabit 15th November 2018 06:06

Seems stange you need to go tonthese lengths.

Did not need to do your suggestions when car was built and rack installed. Unless these had been modified from standard.

Can you post some pictures of brackets? I’ll compare with mine.

Actually I think my brackets were altered from standard. Will confirm soon.

EXI Turbo 21st January 2019 12:48

2 Attachment(s)
3 months later and I still haven't managed to remove the rack.

I can't believe the bracket was welded on after putting the rack in position. But I have spent hours twisting, turning, pulling, forcing it but cannot get it out. Even shouting and swearing at it doesn't work.

Any ideas.
Here is a pic

limpabit 8th February 2019 16:05

Does seem strange what has happened. Has the brackets been moved then from when the car was manufactured?

Merlin man moved our brackets from manufacture to over come bump steer, But still able to remove rack if need be.

Just wonder if you can cut them off and get a friendly local welder to weld them back on?

EXI Turbo 13th February 2019 20:26

I have decided to give up and put the car back together. I could cut the brackets off but to get them rewelded would involve taking the fuel tank out and all removing the bits attached to it or stopping it coming out. So basically everything in front of the fire wall

Cees Bakker 24th February 2019 17:23

Mgf steeringrack

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