The bonnet looks high quality and I love the black gel coat. Can't wait to see the rest

Thanks guys.

I am not going to claim that the finish is perfect, just that with a bit of elbow grease it would look presentable as a temporary finish whilst using the car before final painting.

More progress, rear end/roof should be ready by friday

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/...psqdoooaog.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/...psz3lkzzzk.jpg

The reflections on the bootlid show the quality of the moulding. Hope the front end looks as good once it's cleaned up.

I have been asked by several customers to compile a list of basic items required to build an SWB, The following are examples, there are limitations on the size of rear lights due to body recesses and we have set the kit up for Mini door handles, but all other items are down to personal choice:


7" Headlights with side lights + buckets

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/7--he...bly-with-side/



Chrome headlight trims, MAKE SURE THEY ARE THE TAPERED TYPE

http://www.retroclassiccarparts.com/...for-triumph-tr



Rear lights

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/l539-...--tail--pair-/

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/l539-...icator--pair-/



Front indicators CLEAR LENSES WITH AMBER BULBS REQUIRED

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/l594-...icator--pair-/



Side repeaters (front wing). Example for style, but your choice

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-FI...item35da2f95bd



Fog light Example, your choice. REVERSING LIGHT TO MATCH? NOT REQUIRED FOR MOT

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/1253-rear-fog-/



Reflectors. Example of period correct for SWB, but your choice

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/lucas...ectors--pair-/



Washer jets

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-MI...item418580ccc8



Numberplate lights x2

http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/550-t...lamp--frogeye/



NUMBERPLATES: UK STANDARD SIZE, OBLONG FRONT + SQUARER REAR


Door and boot handle set

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-MI...item1c4e51bded



Bonnet pins, Example

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BONNET-PIN...item19eedbb0e8

Body is looking excellent. My workshop slot gets nearer still.

Can I add a couple of things to your list Chris. Please correct if they are no longer what's needed.

Fuel neck and cap -
I bought them from Car Builder Solutions.
The parts to connect the BMW petrol filler neck to a new cap.
I'll list the part numbers as they may be useful to others.

The cap I chose was AST100, an Aston style locking flip top.

Other parts were
FFF51- ULTRA FLEXIBLE FUEL FILLER HOSE 51mm (2 feet)
POLY - BLACK POLYURETHANE ADHESIVE/SEALANT
ALIT50 - 50mm OD ALUMINIUM TUBE 0.19metre. beaded at one end
H45ZN - 2x HOSE CLIP 45-60mm


Boot catch-
Bought from Europa.
Flat Hook Latch Left Hand BN3BLL

Cheers, Bob.

In case the windscreen has to come out,how can you fit a new screen without damaging the roof/pillars?
Does the z3 rubber stays in place or?????
Sorry but i don't understand how the windscreen has to be fitted if the pillar covers and the roof are bonded and painted...............
I am very intersted in this kit but before buying one i like to see some kind of build manual or instructions,for the more expirienced builder it is probably as clear as glass but for a novice kitbuilder as me it is not.

Oh........let me introduce myself,René,57 years young,hotrodder,classis car nut and perhaps a kitcar builder.......:whoo:
I live in Holland near Amsterdam,work as a pro tig/mig welder but grp/polyester is almost new to me.
Greetz René

Rene - Welcome to this forum, I've enjoyed your work on "Rods & Sods". :cool:

I'm sure Chris from Tribute will give you a proper answer to your question at some point.

In the mean time have a look at this Kobra build thread.

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...ead.php?t=5001

By all accounts the Kobra is a more straight build than the 250 SWB, but it is still BMW Z3 based.

So the photos of the BMW panels being removed should give you some idea of the general process.

But with a few added complications given the 250 SWB has a roof.

To be frank, a man of your skills should have no problems with building something like this.

Good luck, Paul. :)

PS
For everyone else, here are a couple of examples of Rene's work.

Car:
http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/gar...l-anglia-66837

Trailer:
http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/gar...coooool-137857

Thanks for the welcome Paul,i fully understand how the build on a z3 is working with the panels,i have been reading several build treads (including your epic struggle with the rain and snow in which you earn my respect however i can"t understand why you are building a roadster ,if it is done you still be in the rain)about z3 builds........
The SWB should be a straight build to exept the windshield thing what i asked about.
The main thing i like about the SWB is you don't need to go to the RWD(dutch sva)to get it registred because it is only a bodykit.
In Holland you can't build your own design chassis and bodywork with engine of choice like you guys can,a car has to remain original on 2 of 3 parts,that is chassis,engine and body are 3 parts,you can chance only 1.
On a car like a z3 there are just 2 parts,engine and unibody so there is nothing to chance,switching loose panels is not a problem.
I am looking out to see how this develops and getting dreams about the first SWB on my block:icon_mrgreen:

Have send you a PM , René , so schould be in your Inbox.

Windscreen cover
 

Hi Rene;
I have sent you a PM to clarify, but might as well state it here as well;

The windscreen is not covered by the GRP, just the gap that would
normally take the Z3 rubber trim, it will become clearer on Monday when
Chris installs the rear/roof section to Geoff's car. I'm sure Chris will post pics on the forum to explain to everyone.


We are the Benelux supplier of Tributes kits


Rob

Thanks Rob,it clarifies but i like to see some pic's first.
There are always some issues with every build i do wich are not forseen and usually cost a lot of money my way.
Once i bought a restoration project which was half done,only painting and finishing the interior was left to do.It seems all the parts were there,nice solid body in primer and it looks fine.The seller told it was never welded only sandblasted and primerd.
In blind faith i painted it all and started putting it together and discovered the doors were a bit too tall(5 centimeter)and after a lot of investigation it seems my nice solid car was made of 2 nice solid cars,front was 1956 and behind the B pillar there was a 1957 rear end welded on..........scrapped it in the end.
Looking at the SWB kit my guess is i am when it is done 20.000.00 euro's poorer but the proud owner of a nice car..........so in don't like unwanted surprises afterwards.
René

Hi Rene;
Sorry to hear you had a bad experience with kits in the past, I can tell you the Z-3 kits that Tribute makes are of a different league!

That's why we, when looking at the first proto, immediately signed up to be the the distributor for these conversions.

I can understand your concern, please wait for the photos of Chris.
As you know there is a large 'masking' surround along a Z-3 front window, and that is being covered by the kits new bodywork.

Offcourse we can show you all during our builds in March when we will build 3 cars simultaniously.

Rob

An outlay of twenty thousand euros should result in the, erm, Rolls Royce of Ferrari replicas.

Unless you're paying someone else to build it or using a Z3M as a donor, I think you could get a decent example on the road for not much more than half that figure.

With the body kit retailing at about 5,000 euros, a donor for around 3,000, and allowing another 4,000 for wheels/tyres, lights, filler and paint, where's the other 8k going to be spent?

I'm hoping to get one of these started myself in the not too distant future, and I'll be budgeting for a spend of about £7,500 which will include a complete interior transformation. That's only a fag-paper over 10,000 euros at the current exchange rate.

It would be possible to spend an awful lot more of course: I'm aiming to use BMW E39 steel wheels and try to make them look like Dunlop Racing wheels, but if you go for genuine Borranis with bespoke adaptors and fit them with Vredestein Sprint Classics, you could blow ten grand on the wheels alone.

Anyway, however much you spend I'd love to see a build thread getting started soon. :)

Mr T.i am sure you can build a drivable SWB for 11k,but as you say with steel wheels,almost stock interior etc.
A decent 6 pot donor will set you back 4-6 k overhere,i don.t want a knackered 300.000km donor but a low milage 6 cylinder.
Kit is 5 k.
Professionel paintjob including prep and polish around 4k.
Bespoke leather interior with period seats 3,5k.
Period steering wheel,wire wheels,tyres,stainless exhaust,badges,engine bling,period dash gauges and more will add the bill.
This is the way i will go so i think 20k is pretty realistic.
The build itself i can do myself but interior and paint will be done by a pro.
The build of my Anglia hotrod i did almost everything myself but it is not a show car,A SWB should be flawless and as near an original as possible in my opinion.
It does not matter,this is the way i like to go IF i decide to buy a kit,how someone else like to do it is his problem and as long as you have fun building it and are satisfied with it in the end that's what it's all about.

Thanks Bob. The parts you have listed are for those who want to move the filler from the original Z3 location up to the top of the rear wing.

The kit has no set provision for filler location, as everyone will want something different. Geoff's SWB, for example, will be fitted with a modified stock Z3 filler flap over the existing cap/neck.

Any update pictures Chris?

Hi Ian. We got the sills and door skins out of the moulds today and hung on Geoff's car, but due to a couple of visitors to the workshop from 4-6.30 I missed the daylight and couldn't take any pics easily. The rear end section will arrive and be trail fitted on Monday so more pictures then.

I agree with your plans for the fuel filler, Chris, I will be re-using the standard fuel flap on my 275GTB re-creation (re-profiled to match the contour) as the alternative is so expensive but if anyone wants to follow me, as you say, they can use an authentic looking alternative.

Quick question for Chris at Tribute: is the roll cage necessary to support the roof structure, or could an example be built without one?

It's not that I'm a cheapskate looking to cut costs but I might just want to go more for a GT (as in Grand Touring like what posh people did in the 18th Century) rather than the race car look.

Thank you. :)