Yellow car with Black roof
 

Chris

Black roof down to top of rear wings and across below rear window,
think back to your youth and black vinyl roofs.

My old Tvr 3000m was finished off that way.

:peep:

Very Andy - Just to echo the words of Chris @ Tribute & Mister Towed...

I started my build "next door" with no experience of working with fibreglass what so ever.

Yet even I was able to make some useless doors "disappear" & build a new scuttle from scratch.
( With apologies to Geoff & Chris for adding more Sammio photos to this thread. )

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j...o/DSCF2759.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H...o/DSCF3780.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-n...o/DSCF3791.JPG

So moving / changing / replacing a side vent should be a piece of cake.

However if you want to see just what is possible when people like Chris & Dan get to work...

Have a look in the "Links to useful info" thread at the top of this section of the forum.

Then click on the links to the development threads for the A352, Kobra, or Z300s.

I am always amazed at how they cut things up and join them back together. :cool:

I also think the 250 SWB will be a very straight forward kit to build, even if you want to modify it a bit.

Cheers, Paul. :)

Neil i am not a big fan of buildersfoam between panels,i am worried the foam will hold moisture in.........
i asked about the space between the panels as i have no expirience with grp over metal and don't know how much space is left between the panels,my knowledge of hollow spaces is that they could work as sound chambers.
In my hotrod i have made a wooden rear benchseat,before i fitted a kind of dynamat on the floor under the seat there was a lot of more noise as when i drove with no seat or dynamat before.
It would be a bummer if the car is finished with buzzing doors:shocked:

Once the foam has cured Rene, I believe it is waterproof, and water resistant, so if you start with a dry cavity, (all metal rust proofed and painted) you should be okay.
Buzzing bodywork would be a pain, but you could always drill a hole and foam it afterwards.

Check out some of the 3M foams. They are much better as they stay soft and are designed for use in automobiles

Just a thought, can the body be supplied or adapted to fit any Z3 donor, or does it have to be the wide-body model?

Mister Towed as far as I understand it what makes a wide-body Z3 are the various panels that are bolted onto the structure and therefore once unbolted there would be no difference , Geoff .

Thanks Geoff, that makes sense. Also just found this site that suggests the track width is the same regardless of engine size -

http://www.autoevolution.com/cars/bm...mw-z3-1996-28i

I'm no eggspurt but I thought that pre 99 the 2.8 was wider than the 1.9 (bodywork and track) which had shorter driveshafts?

From the Owner's Handbook:
Front/rear track: 1.8 = 1411/1492; 2.0,2.8 = 1413,1494 and all are given the same width of 1740.
The 1.8 engine size gives a range of about 7 tyre widths on 15", 16" or 17" wheels front and rear on 7, 7.5, 8 and 8.5J rims and 225/45 ZR 17 on 7.5J front and 245/40 ZR 17 on 8.5J rims rear. The 2.0 has almost the same range but the 2.8 only gives 225/50 ZR16 and 225/50 R16 or 225/45 ZR17 and 245/40 ZR17 rear.
These differences might account for 10mm in the rear track but I suspect the term "wide body" referred to the styling changes which took place. Does anybody know better?

They only difference in Z3 body shells is around to boot area. The Facelift cars have a larger boot opening where the lid latches. It only affects the rear internal fitting panel of the Kobra and SWB kits, we can supply either panel, just let us know the age of your Z3.

I drove a 1.9 and 2.8 back to back many years ago and found the one underpowered and the latter too powerful for the chassis (in stark contrast to the 3 litre z4 I test drove around the same track a few years later!) so it would have to be a 2.8 with a full cage to stiffen the chassis for me.

Thanks for your input everyone, and thanks for clearing it up Chris. It's good to know that you've covered the bases for any donor Z3.

I'm hoping to find a 2 litre six pot donor as it will sound good, go well enough and be legal on H speed rated tyres. The 2.2 litre cars and above must have at least V rated tyres, which narrows the availability too much for my liking.

If the right car at the right price came along I'd still look at a 1.8 or 1.9 though. Alloy flywheels are available stateside (I'd be fitting a new clutch as a matter of course anyway), which apparently transform the M44 motor.

Cue WCA for a rant about 1.9's...

Obligatory rant

Ha Ha! Was waiting for that!

That wasn't to your normal fine standard.
I'm a little disappointed ;-)

I think I'm right in saying that all 6 cylinder cars and all facelift cars have a wide rear track, whilst pre-facelift 4 cylinder and z3m had a narrow rear track so that wider spacers will be required in the latter types unless you use wheels with z3m dimensions to fill the arches.

Wide body?
 

Wikipedia says "Width 1996-98: 66.6 in (1,692 mm) 1999-2002: 68.5 in (1,740 mm)" but no figures for the track. My handbook is dated (c) 1999 so perhaps it does not have data for the older (narrow body) cars?

I can't confirm but I am sure the rear wheel arches were I thought wider as the side skirts are different depending on model. These are bolt on bolt off wings so can you not remove it as part of the build regardless? aka Bertini boys style

Hi Rob. Here are the main sections of your first SWB kit, smaller panels ready tomorrow:

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/...psrbw85scs.jpg

http://i1046.photobucket.com/albums/...pswjdtdjhz.jpg