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Complete Non-sequiter
Can't think where else to put this. It was my original kit car inspiration. I sold my Lotus VI to a school friend in '71 for £100. He's shunted it from one garage to another for nigh on 50 years without putting it back on the road.
Such a shame, but undoubtedly a sound investment! Regards, Mick |
I think most of us 'mature' people have similar stories. Mine are a '32 MG PA sold for £75 which was a profit of £50! An AH3000 MK1 Bought for £200 and sold for £50, well on the way to a heap of rust. A mate of mine bought a Singer sports car in the 60's for £60, sold it a couple of years later for £60 and saw in auctioned for £60K!
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And still they come........
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Very nice, but what's the chance of SVA?
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I'm wondering if it's the same one that featured in earlier posts on this thread? I can't be sure from the pictures, but it seems likely. Regards, Mick |
"Slim" is being generous. I would buy it as a job lot and recoup some of the outlay by selling the Ford parts, then find myself a Triumph chassis.
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Is that a Monaco chassis? It looks a bit like Locust/Hornet Chassis.
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Why would it not be possible to get this through IVA? Is there something fundamental about its design that would cause a problem? Or is it the effort required in getting all the details right?
I'm just curious. I built my kit car in the days before SVA / IVA. |
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That yellow Monaco would need some serious work to meet all the requirements, whereas mine is simply a re-body, or 'Radically Altered Vehicle' as DVLA style it. Its unmodified Spitfire underpinnings constitute its identity, irrespective of whatever bodywork is fitted. Witness my A352 which is styled on its post-V627 process V5: Make: Triumph; Model: Spitfire; Body: Sports. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/929/4...febc0e29_b.jpg I imagine that my Monaco will be similarly described. Regards, Mick |
Thanks for the helpful reply.
I get the difference between a ‘rebody’ and an ‘IVA’ car, and I understand that things sometimes ‘fall off’ after IVA. I was just wondering if there was anything specific about this car that would be a problem for IVA. I suspected it is a case that almost anything can be made to pass, it’s just a question of will and effort. |
Saw a D type in the same colour and white flash on the front on the A30 near Sunningdale. Looked and sounded great, was it you?
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No, but......
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Seriously though, it's possible that it's the one mentioned at the end of this post? There are probably a few similar scattered around the country but the likelihood of their being used for trips to Asda, like mine, is remote! Regards, Mick |
The one I saw didn't have a roundal on the bonnet. It did sound like a Jag. Looked bigger than the car I saw at Tribute but it went past in a flash.
Spoilt for car spotting around here, I have Marenello's at the bottom of the hill, new Mclaren garage in Ascot (factory is only a few miles away) and Duncan Hamilton over Bagshot way. Plus a Tacky Rolls Royce dealership in Sunningdale, how can you have that much money and so little taste? |
Three Months. Blimey!
Yesterday, for the first time in earnest since June 3rd, I ventured down to the deliciously cool man cave to play with the Monaco. After a bit of a tidy up of some boxes of my children's stuff stored there, and a once over with the yard brush, I had to decide on something simple to ease myself back into the build.
I've never really been happy with my upper seat belt eye bolts, positioned as they are to crack the odd vertebra or two in the event of being hit from the rear, so I decided to reverse them, which will allow the mounting plates with their captive nuts to be recessed into the plywood seat back. The belts themselves would have to emerge through the rear deck with this arrangement so I set to measuring and marking where the holes would have to be cut. To make this arrangement tidy, and please the MOT inspector, I decided that ally escutcheons were needed. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1932/...334c8a26_b.jpg I made a card template, transferred the outline to ally sheet, and tin-snipped out the blanks. I cut the central slots with wood chisels and bent the flaps in the vice by tapping a piece of thick steel through, before drilling the rivet holes.. A trial fit of the belt end plates verified that my measurements were correct. The slightly ragged ends of the slots will have to be dressed in situ. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1919/...52066e25_b.jpg By this time the early afternoon sun was streaming into the cave and the thought of getting into the hooded paper suit to cut the slots in the body decided me to leave that for another day. I'd long ago realised that, whichever pedal box I used, an access panel would be needed for the master cylinders. After some more careful measuring of the position of the footwell bulkhead and the pedal box, I marked the body ready for cutting which, again, will have to wait for a cooler day. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1918/...69c1dbea_b.jpg Regards, Mick |
A tiny bit more.....
I wandered down to the man cave mid morning yesterday and decided to make a little more progress. Out came the drill and the jigsaw and I attacked the access panel outline, hoping that my measurements were correct. After vacuuming the doom dust, as I call it, and removing the protective gear it was time to offer up the pedal box.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1974/...8a6468f3_b.jpg I tried balancing it on bits of wood but it didn't want to play so I strung it up Heath Robinson style. The oversized reservoir on the brake master cylinder made optimal positioning impossible so I removed it, I'll have to substitute a regular sized one. I also disced off the top right hand corner of the mounting plate to make it fit up against the footwell more snugly. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1980/...1d0fc9dd_b.jpg Now happy with the way it sat I put it back on the bench to ponder how I would attach it. The front facing bolts can easily be substituted with appropriately longer ones to pass through the bulkhead with a reinforcing plate on the engine bay side. The vertical facing ones will need a transverse bar attached to the body sides to locate them. This will need to be angle. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...a1a10331_b.jpg By now, the noonday sun was turning the cave into an oven, so I packed up. Regards, Mick |
Hi Mick,
With the seatbelt eyes/mounts is there a frame behind the fibreglass shell, that they mount to/through? Could you post a picture, as I'm about to install mine. Thanks Colin |
Hi Colin
No frame, they simply bolt through the thick GRP of the seat back area. Regards, Mick |
Hand In Pocket
I wandered down to the cave yesterday and measured the body width and pedal box mounting area. Logging on to Ebay I bought the necessary 3mm steel plate and 20x20x3mm steel angle. A trip to my local fixings factor, Allcap, and I bought the ten 2" long 1/2" UNF screws c/w penny and split washers I needed. This emporium has never let me down, no matter how obscure the specimen fixing I've presented for duplication, and it's maintained its £4.00 + VAT minimum charge, and all practically on my doorstep. Excellent!
Roll on delivery for further fabrication :) Regards, Mick |
Pedal Box Progress
My 3mm steel plate having been left on my doorstep whilst I was out :rolleyes:, I was able to crack on yesterday. Before cutting any metal, I made a template of the curvature of the body to ensure a snug fit of the mounting. I used cardboard on the outside and transferred the profile to another piece of pizza carton which, when offered up in the footwell, was acceptable.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1946/...fb6bde4a_b.jpg Examining the ally mounting plate revealed that it would be severely weakened once the vertical element (which I'm replacing with the steel) was removed. I cut off a strip, bent it into an angle, rivetted it on, and disced off the redundant section. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1925/...55afc3e7_b.jpg Using the template and the above section I marked, jigsawed and drilled the new plate with the mounting holes centralised. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1963/...9e011474_b.jpg A little dressing with the rat tailed file and the footwell side of the steel sandwich mounting was temporarily bolted to the pedals. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1911/...043b3d36_b.jpg My fillings having nearly been shaken out whilst using the jigsaw, I decided to quit while I was ahead and leave the second plate for another day. Regards, Mick |
I find a 1mm thick cutting disc in an angle grinder is the quickest and easiest way of cutting thicker steel. The 1mm discs cut very quickly but also wear out very quickly so buy in bulk and invest in a quick change angle grinder nut.
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