The answer to getting bright enough indicators in the base of the headlamp cowl is shown at 1m57s into this video

Just mount a bare, orange 21w flasher bulb there.

Further- having obtained the requisite bulbs and holders, it was a quick job yesterday to swap them in. Being the full 21w rating, I was able to dispense with the resistors that compensated for the previous 5w jobbies. I decided to keep the small repeaters in the brake ducts for now.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../DSCF2515b.jpg

Replacing a Z3 Mirror
 

Another little job to hide the BMW origins is to replace the door mirrors. I'd bought a pair of suitable chromy round devices that looked as if I could use the original mounting holes. Correct!!!

First I removed the existing mirror which was held on by some M5 socket screws. Whilst wrapping the doors some time ago I had disconnected the electrics. I attacked the bodywork with an angle grinder to key the filler:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../DSCF2573a.jpg

Then I taped over the cable hole, inserted some well greased M5 button head screws and filled the indentation with P40 Isopon- the one with glass strands embedded:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../DSCF2577a.jpg

Then I used a skim of ordinary filler to bring the level up- I sanded to the contours and level of the wrap on the doors. The first layer of high-build primer is likely to be that thick anyway.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../DSCF2578a.jpg

Then a temporary piece of wrap to hide the evidence:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../DSCF2579a.jpg

While the filling and sanding was going on- I'd dunked the fixing brackets (mild steel !!!) in Hammerite to give the plot some longevity.

Then the time came to fit the mirror itself- result!!!

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../DSCF2583a.jpg

The view out the back is OK- not as wide angle as the originals but then they don't protrude as much either.

Just need another dry afternoon to fit the nearside one. Should be quicker...

Very Nice!

I'd been wondering how to avoid corrosion in the exposed indicator bulb holders but I understand that "a good smear of silicon grease will stop further corrosion due to the lack of protective plating. Silicon grease is good stuff if a bit of mess isn't a problem- it'll even keep salty water out of cleaned up pitted sidelight bulb holders! "

For What It's Worth
 

I've just put my BMW Z3 Boston Green door mirrors on eBay for £95 each.

The driver side one sold in 19 minutes.

Looks like it's gone to a car repairer in Sarf Lunnun. Good on you, sir.

No Excuse not to...
 

Tesco are selling bottles of St Austell Tribute ale for £1.79 and bottles of St Austell Proper Job ale for £1.99.

Or £6 for any 4 bottles.

Of course I did- rude not to.

Mot ok !!!
 

The BMW service light reset tool arrived in the post yesterday and worked its magic- £7 well spent.

MOT passed this morning having done all of 1922 miles since last year.

The advisories mean that I feel a set of stainless braided brake hoses coming on.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../DSCF2374a.jpg
Seen here with sidelights, dipped beams, hazards and rear fog light under test.

The BMW service light reset tool arrived in the post yesterday and worked its magic- £7 well spent

Link?

Also, can you do some photos when you change the brake hoses as I think I might need to do that too soon.

It's this one on eBay:

BMW E30 E34 E36 E39 Z3 X5 1982-2001 Sockets Oil Service Reset Tool 20 Pin

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4007114895...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

For my MY2000 Z3- I've also got an OBD2 service code reader for that 20 pin socket under the bonnet. I've never used the D-connector under the dash.

Ordered one for me. I have a normal obd2 reader but the z3 doesn't have the correct port as far as I am aware

I bought this one:

BMW C110 MANUFACTURER OBDII FAULT CODE ENGINE ABS TRANSMISSION AIRBAG SCANNER

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-C110-M...kAAOSwxYxU0ou7

but couldn't find the D-connector socket so bought an adapter so that it now works in the 20pin socket under the bonnet. I've since found the D-connector socket under the RH side of the dash but not tried it there.

I've just checked out the OBD2 reader using the socket under the dashboard and although it connects and runs- a lot of the functions are giving comms errors. Too dark and cold to compare with using it via the underbonnet 20 pin socket.

If you search on the Z3 forum or you tube it shows how you can re-set the service lights by using a wire across two terminals on the socket under the bonnet.

Andy

Now you tell us !!!

It's worth £7 just to see the indicator lights on the unit go out so you know it's done...

A good day out at the Historic Specials Day at Cotswold Wildlife Park today organised by the Fairthorpe Owners Club. Where else could you see three Lotus 6s together, or five Rochdale Olympics along with Turners, Bucklers and Tornadoes?

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../DSCF7377a.jpg

I was there too. Slightly in love with the Bucklers!

Yes- this one was a bit "special"...

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6.../DSCF7419a.jpg

A Little Electrical Problem
 

Needed to move the Z300S to get the Jago out this morning.
Got suspicious when the driver's door unlocked on the key without any other central unlocking noises.
Key in ignition- absolutely dead, no lights at all.
Pushed it out of the way, connected the battery charger and used Jago as planned.
A few hours later, went out to try and start it- still absolutely dead.
Disconnected the battery charger, disconnected the earth battery terminal and touched it back on terminal. There was a visible spark which suggested a higher parasitic drain than just the radio. Connecting a meter between showed 10A !!!
Disconnected the alternator as I've had those fail before- (you usually get a light show from the instruments when they do) but same problem.
Took the top off the fuse box and started to read the circuits trying to see what could use that much juice.
Honestly, I extracted fuse #19 first- driver's seat and... no more drain and car started OK.
Herself had driven it to the Historic Specials Show and adjusted the seat forwards. I'd adjusted it back afterwards- obviously too much for the old motor. Or is there a relay?
Only buggeration was that I broke the plastic radiator return pipe where it joins the rubber pipe whilst removing the air filter. It has a brass ferrule inside at that point so although I've remade the join and it doesn't seem to leak- I'll have to replace it.
So- see you at Weymouth Bike & Car Show tomorrow evening- Thursday 25 August.

Now... there's an idea! Make fake 'dents' so the GRP looks like an authentic metal body :smile: I remember many years ago an advert in one of the Kit Car mags for 'rust' decals to create a similar effect.