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Mister Towed 20th October 2021 08:58

I fully understand the space issue - I am lucky enough to have a decent sized double garage to work in and I concede it would be much more difficult if I didn't have that.

I'd still recommend the following stages though:

Once your bodywork is ready for paint - a lot of people advocate running a heat gun over the surface and digging out and filling any bubbles that appear - key the fibreglass and filler with 400 grit wet'n'dry paper.

Thoroughly degrease all surfaces with panel wipe and ensure everything is completely dry (this step needs repeating after every stage).

Brush or roller on two coats of etch primer, allowing each to dry and flatting back with 600 grit after each coat, adding more coats if you rub through to the gelcoat or bare fibreglass anywhere (be careful on edges, high spots and corners).

Follow that up with at least two coats of high-build primer, flatting that back with 800 grit wet'n'dry after each coat, not forgetting the degrease and dry stage.

Once you're happy that there are no (serious) defects in the finish, brush or roller on the first coat of top-coat, leave to dry then flat it back with 800 grit wet'n'dry, carefully dealing with any runs or sags with coarser paper (nothing less than 400 grit, though) being very careful not to rub through any high points, door edges etc.

Keep adding top coats and flatting each one back until you are happy with the thickness of the paint and the finish, then flat it back with finer and finer paper - I use 1000, 1500, 2000 then 2500 before cutting it back with a cutting compound (I use Farecla G3). You can either do this by hand or use a machine polisher, just bear in mind it's much easier to inadvertently rub through or scorch the paint with a machine.and doing it by hand in straight lines won't leave swirls.

Finish off with a resin or wax polish and it should look like it's been sprayed.

I'd strongly recommend that you use good quality cellulose paint rather than two pack as cellulose is much easier to rectify if it goes on badly, it will flex with a fibreglass body where two pack will crack and it doesn't contain cyanide like two pack does so won't kill your pets/neighbours/you/etc. I get my paint from Jawel Paints as it's extremely good value and works for me (other suppliers are available. Always use sanding paper wet, never dry, and if you drop a piece on the floor throw it away and use a fresh piece, it's cheap enough.

One more tip - if you're planning to have decals on your car like racing roundels or sponsorship stickers, have those put on before using any cutting compound or polish as they won't stick properly otherwise. (that's from the chap who does my roundels).

All of the above is what I've picked up from speaking to pro sprayers, my paint manufacturer, other enthusiasts, etc., and I'm not a professional paint finisher so if anyone disagrees with this advice please feel free to offer up alternatives.

Good luck, and I hope to see some impressive results soon :)

Mitchelkitman 20th October 2021 17:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul L (Post 106929)
Slarti – This thread inspired me to paint my car with a brush.

Unfortunately, all the photos seem to have been lost (Photobucket ransom?).

https://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/threads/...g-a-car.98714/

Where I went wrong was using a synthetic paint, rather than Rustoleum.

What sort of paint is Rustoleum? I'm quite practiced (rather than experienced :whistle: ) in brush painting, and have never quite understood some of the terms.......
My broad understanding is:-
1.Cellulose is a 'natural' product and every paint except cellulose is synthetic
Then again I've never seen a paint tree :icon_lol:
2. 2 pack can be brushed (I've done it) but it's VERY difficult and IMHO I prefer single-pack, which leads me to
3. Enamel paint. I've used teckaloid (with good results), but it was 318? which is quicker drying, and I don't seem to be able to locate the 'older' Teckaloid coach enamel.
4. Is Rustoleum an enamel (like Teckaloid), in which case thinning it will surely lead to a dull finish?
I'm happy to put on very thin paint, indeed That's how I put on undercoat, as it leaves no brush marks, but being dull isn't a problem with undercoat. How is it possible to get a good final finish with using Rustoleum in a very diluted mix?

Paul L 23rd October 2021 10:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mitchelkitman (Post 106990)
What sort of paint is Rustoleum?

Sorry, I don't know.

Lucky@LeMans 23rd October 2021 17:09

I use two pack acrylic, works well for me in less than ideal conditions. Great finish straight from the gun ! If you orange peel or runs it can be flatted back and polished.

Mitchelkitman 23rd October 2021 20:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans (Post 107010)
I use two pack acrylic, works well for me in less than ideal conditions. Great finish straight from the gun ! If you orange peel or runs it can be flatted back and polished.

Isn't acrylic a water-based paint? Years of using paints, and I'm still (almost) as mystified as when I started :icon_razz:


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