Now MOTed for another year and still saving up to get it painted.
Slight increase up to 1745 miles in the last 12 months.

Had to replace the driver's seat fuse to make it adjustable again for the test. Apparently there is a draft MOT "additions" document around showing that from May the test could include brake fluid appearance and reversing light checks.

Found the document here

1330 Kg
 

Just been out for a spin down to a local weighbridge and the Z300S with a quarter tank of fuel weighs 1330 Kg.
It still has the front & rear alloy "bumpers" under the bodywork and carries a space-save spare wheel.

BMW claimed 1387KG for the 2.8 but I guess that was dry weight

Fairly certain that is is dry weight too.

Out for a spin in the Z300S earlier this week and upon checking (as you do) found that the brake lights weren't working.
Wiring connections in the well of darkness (the boot) looked OK and the fuse wasn't blown.
Having the engine running and idly pumping the brake pedal listening for the switch to click- they started working again.
The switch was just tired I guess...
If only all gremlins would dissipate as easily.

I have an intermittent short between the brake lights and the rear indicator on the passenger side. Most of the time it is fine and then when braking and turning left the indicator suddenly starts flashing at double speed. I have been trying to track it down for 18 months on and off

Easy fix, you're driving a BMW, you don't need to use indicators.

Like the Mrs, just wants to let you know you cannot take it for granted.

Getting close to paint time
 

Getting close to paint time as I've found someone fairly local who will do a standard paint only job (no lacquer) with a pro-finish vinyl striping overlay.
A few more consultations needed but he's recommended Indasa Autofill for any filling, pre-primer that it may need. Anyone else used this stuff?
Sounds like an easy-sand paste with glass and kevlar reinforcement. I have to say that the Isopon P40 with glass strands is not the easiest to sand.

Ian - Remind me, what colour are you going for?

Good luck, Paul. :)

Thanks- this is the car's 4th summer in gel coat.

Same as ever- white- probably Ford Polar or Arctic or whatever they call it this year with 2 stripes in red - probably good old Standard Triumph Signal Red vinyl.

Here's a (seemingly) odd question......... Does the Barchetta body kit come with the headlight holes already cut out, or just marked? No prizes (but maybe some kudos?) to anyone who can guess what I'm thinking (clue - not a track car without lights)

Chris installed the headlights in mine so I can't say. There was a pic on here a little while ago of Z300S kit #7 being shipped. You may be able to see on that.

Are you going to:

A. Install a cluster of white LED lights for the front?

or

B. Install a cluster of red/amber LED lights and mount it on the back a la Boxster, Nikri and other pushme-pullyou designs?

no to both :icon_biggrin:

Another clue - using traditional headlights :wacko:

Pop-ups. Please be pop up / rotating headlights

https://st.hotrod.com/uploads/sites/...nd%7C660%3A440

You got it! My thought is that it would be a fun feature to have rotating headlights ALA Panther Solo. If the part cut out is available (or marked so it can be carefully cut out) it will be used as the 'blanking piece' when the light isn't in use.

I went for 'Frenched in' rear lights but have always love novel pop up style lights.

Rotating lights, ones where the bonnet lowers, simple pop ups like on my TVR Wedge.

I think the only ones I didn't like were the 'lazy eye' ones on the Z280 where the lower half was left uncovered .

They are IMHO an interesting feature. I changed my Quantum ones from pop-down flaps to pop-up headlights - main reason was that the original set up gave very poor night vision (beams shielded by bodywork) and MOT query due to light shining off flap.

A-Plan insurance

Originally Posted by ned
try 01635 874646 and ask for kit car dept Henry
good luck

Just wanted to get this info on my thread.

OBDII Bluetooth Scanner
 

I've just picked up one of these for £4.30 and downloaded the OBD Car Doctor app from elm327.com onto my Android phone.

The free app is fairly basic- rpm, coolant temperature and not much more. The full functions only become available when paying for the Pro version. (~£14)

Not sure how much info is available on the Z3 as its OBD is not fully compliant but I would expect to see trouble and servicing codes and be able to switch them off. There is also a data logger function.

OBDII Bluetooth Scanner
 

Interesting range of functions:
Road speed
RPM
Intake Air Temperature
Engine Coolant Temperature
Fuel consumption
Diagnostic Codes (library of 18193) (reset them with ignition on and engine off)
% Engine Load
Short Term Fuel Trim Banks 1 & 2
Long Term Fuel Trim Banks 1 & 2
Ignition Timing on #1 cylinder
Airflow Rate through MAF in g/second
Oxygen Sensor voltage and % Banks 1 & 2
Battery Voltage

but no ECU info (probably the Z3 non-compliant bit).

So basically- a whole load more things to worry about !!!

More pre-paint help please
 

More pre-paint help please:

1. How to remove Z3 door handles? I've got the clips off of the front pins but how to access the rear fastening?

2. How to remove the outer door top rubber trim? I'm guessing that loosening/removing the front window runner and quarterlight should provide access. I've found 2 bolts holding those.

Evening Ian there are 3 bolts holding the quarter light unit in place , one of them is under the door , Geoff .

Thanks for that, Geoff. I'm covering a Boston Green car with Ford Frozen White so trying to avoid any obvious lines showing on the outside.

No need to remove that clip- just slide an inside catch forwards and then back having replaced the trim- see here

This removes the door handle surround which is all that's required when painting. If you need to remove the handle and latch mechanism- removing the surround exposes the head of the front pin (clip comes off the back of that) and the rear is removed by rotating the bezel around the key cylinder. Then "just" unbolt the latch mechanism from the edge of the door. There's a YouTube video for that as well.

Like most things- dead easy when you know how.
Remove the frangible clip at the rear of the door. That releases a triangular lump of rubber which is connected to the top trim. Ease it all upwards along the door and there's another triangular lump of rubber at the front which somehow grips the door. Ease that out and you're done.
It does make it a little easier if you have the inner door card off and loosen the top bolt holding the window runner/quarter-light but not essential when removing. Might be different when replacing with a new item but I find that Swarfega (NOT the one with plastic granules in it) works wonders, or Fairy Liquid.

Well- here we are- sanded down and ready for primer...

http://i64.tinypic.com/30dijv9.jpg

Work progressed quicker than expected- here it is with doors, bootlid and wheels back on- just need the bonnet to be painted and stripes applied...

http://i66.tinypic.com/j8l00g.jpg

:der: I saw this note and thought Ian was building a 2nd car........ It was only when I scrolled back a few pages I found a reference to getting the car sprayed. I'll keep taking the 'oldtimers' pills!

Looking forward to seeing this

If only- I would like a 250 convertible but space not available here.

This is the Z300S's 4th summer so I thought it was about time to get it painted. No further gel coat issues showed themselves in the hot sunlight/temperatures this year so I'm hopeful that the finish will endure. Two-pack paint has been used.

At last !!!
 

Fettled just enough to get it home...


http://i64.tinypic.com/20afin9.jpg


http://i67.tinypic.com/5ugyna.jpg

Stripes to follow.

Liking it!

Very nice.

Looking so much better.
Chrome door handles, headlight covers and a grill, then you can it's finished.

Thanks Jag- also- just a small matter of the woodrim steering wheel, some cobra-style lowback seats (in the correct mid-brown colour), similar shade of alcantara wrap on the dashboard (door cards already done) and stainless wire wheels.

Earlier in your build thread, you mentioned "Polish wire wheel adaptors" but went with Orsen.
Any leads on some cheaper adaptors?

My friend Mork used to deal with Orsen on a weekly basis .....

Never found them so went to MWS for the adaptors and spinners. WCA used Orsen.

Am I right thinking Mindy was involved in that little manage et tois ?