I went through a hell of a lot Degsy, I used over a thousand rivets, and about the same in self tappers, (which looked like rivets, but allowed the panels to be taken off for maintenance)
So that was over two thousand in the car finally.
But the end result, both on yours and mine, speaks for itself.
Good luck with the rest of it!

I think I'll need it 2000 yuk by the way is your engine sorted now Scottie

Yes and no Degsy, I'm just doing a bit each day, just re-newed all the hoses, having had to mostly cut all the old ones off as the jubillee clips had all seized up.Then to get all the nuts off the studs that had seized and come out of the head, then shearing them off, and having to order new ones. ordering new water pump, fitting it etc. It kind of seems to be dragging on, but I am getting there slowly. The good thing about this is the crap weather! I still have no roof so am not in a tearing hurry to finish the work really, as strange as that may sound.

Scottie I am fitting all stainless jubilee clips to mine much better also all non stressed bolts will be stainless

I agree Degs, I am doing the same. Most of the nuts and bolts on my car are all stainless, well worth the little bit extra I think.

absolutely I am also planning on changing all brackets' heat shields and dust shields for stainless as well (as much shiny bling as possible)

The boot box in front of the fuel tank is now done but I chickened out of cutting the boot support outriggers? but I have a devious plan where I cut them off and re weld them on at a new angle to support the boot and keep the DVLA happy.

[IMG]http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSCF0685.jpg[/IMG]

I would like to get the car running before the body goes on So I stared on the electrics I had to re-modify the modified dash. And fitted in place with a grate deal of very accurate guesswork

[IMGhttp://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSCF0686.jpg][/IMG]

[IMG]http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSCF0693.jpg[/IMG]

This makes the wiring behind the dash much easier to install as you can see.

[IMG]http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSCF0692.jpg[/IMG]

But I realise that the gear box cover will be very awkward to make/fit when the dash is fully installed so I have also made a start on that.

[IMG]http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSCF0690.jpg[/IMG]

I also worked out that the brake master cylinder will be too tall for the body so I have sent for a later tandem unit which will mean a little bit of re-pluming Doh :violin:

All this pre-planning may be a pain Degsy, but well worth it in the end!

yes I agree and to top it all my chepo ebay air riveter died on me yesterday after only about 150 rivets s#!t and b%%ger it I'll have to buy a decent one now!

Not a lot happening I have been trying to sort out the wiring and cabling making holes for the grommets etc.
Then I decided to have a go at the boot supports and in the process tried to decapitate my left middle finger with my angle grinder luckily I failed but it looks as if I have been at it with a cheese grater so I have retired to my favourite chair and pain killers (vodka) hic

Managed to get a bit more done this weekend I finally cut down the rear boot supports I have welded a blanking plate in with a nut on the inside so I can bolt or weld the supports back in place once the body is on.
[IMGhttp://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSCF0695.jpg][/IMG]

[IMGhttp://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSCF0694.jpg][/IMG]

I also remade the exhaust rear support hopefully the body should clear it ok!

[IMGhttp://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSCF0696.jpg][/IMG]

I am still playing with the electrics having problems with the overdrive and 2 speed heater wiring what wires I have are the wrong colour codes and I have 2 inhibitor switches on the gearbox all the diagrams show only one?????

Gearbox Switches
 

Thanks Mick I wish it was that simple as you can see from the photos below (just) there is a inhibitor switch in front of the gearstick the reverse light switch is just behind the gearstick (two wires going to it) at the front on the top of the gearbox there is another inhibitor switch? this is where the selectors should be so I have wired up to that one.
[IMG]http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSCF0701.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSCF0702.jpg[/IMG]
It may or may not be right I'll find out the first time I drive it?

today I installed the bottom fillets to the frame these will be sealed with P.U. adhesive once the body is on
[LMGhttp://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...k/DSCF0697.jpg][/IMG]

Gearbox Switches
 

T checked them today and you're right the one by the gearbox would have power going through it in all gears the one at the front only in 3rd and top so hopefully that should do the trick

I bled the clutch today it wont work? it's all new but won't disengage $#it

The trials and tribulations of kit car ownership keep up the good work you'll get there in the end.

Now where have I heard that before........... :-)

hmmmm I wonder who that was hoo!

Well I still can't get the clutch to disengage so I'll have to take it out but I have to do it the hard way as the bell housing won't go back past the new frame! engine out bl@@dy ell

Been there. I rebuilt a Lotus Seven Series 1 with a Ford crossflow engine and gearbox. The clutch hydraulics were working- the slave arm was moving the right amount but not disengaging. Turns out the D-spacer between the arm and the thrust bearing carrier had come adrift.