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luked2189 6th January 2017 19:59

Mick, I've been a lot less impressed with this kit over the evo200 kit. Had moulding, precutting and metal support issues. Great to see us all cracking on. We should do a meet / track day when were all on the road.

retro200 6th January 2017 20:18

yes i have heard some others saying the same but how does it compare price wise against evo200 i bet they are a lot dearer to buy after all as andy says its meant to be a budget build we all cant afford 20kto 30ka for a replica have you seen those banham panals on ebay bonnet / doors he wants a fortune for them and they arnt as acurate as mrs are to a original he also has a original f/fumper wants nearly 4k for it i also had to make some alterations to the supplied brackets the rear one i cut up and re positioned lower down on top of rear bumper bar so clam sits on it under where rear lights reccess are much better and out of the way front wasnt so bad but still needed lowering down to get f/bumper right about 25 to 30 mm from memory i just re drilled holes in new front bar to drop it but you can still end up with a nice rep when the hard works done i think i have around 5.5k in mine inc 49,000 mile facelift 04 doner mr2 that will do me !!!1

luked2189 6th January 2017 20:33

Price wise there wasn't much in it, his prices are in the back of his catalogue . The quality in moulding and trimming was superior but bill's moulds are for his frame so they would have needed doctoring to the mr2. I was hoping to seriously reduce build time. Karl is well known in the 200 stuff, always got something going on. I'll look at lowering/remaking a front cross bar that supports the bumper after I've looked at why the backs sitting way left.

SwiftyDS 6th January 2017 22:13

I've been impressed so far with the quality of panels, return edges and thickness etc. I've built a couple of kits now of varying styles and there are far worse out there!

Nostromo 6th January 2017 23:08


Originally Posted by luked2189 (Post 85372)
Price wise there wasn't much in it, his prices are in the back of his catalogue . The quality in moulding and trimming was superior but bill's moulds are for his frame so they would have needed doctoring to the mr2. I was hoping to seriously reduce build time. Karl is well known in the 200 stuff, always got something going on. I'll look at lowering/remaking a front cross bar that supports the bumper after I've looked at why the backs sitting way left.

My rear frame is a bit off to the left too. I think the clam will still sit square on it so for the moment I'm not too worried. I'll be able to tell for sure once my rear wheels are on. Once it's all built, I may look at replacing it with something like Mick has built as it looks fat nicer than a big industrial looking square frame.

SwiftyDS 7th January 2017 08:32

Andy did keep telling me when I was going through the process of buying the kit to think twice about splitting the clam so it lifted, saying that it was easier to line everything up if it was permanently fixed.

This is part of the fun for me to find ways to make this as close as possible to the original, and have started to look at putting a support frame within the clam itself - something like this is going to be needed to allow for gas struts to be used to raise/support the clam on opening. Not sure if this is what you've done Mick as can't quite see close enough from your pics.

Very impressed Mick that you did your build for 5.5k - did that include paint?

retro200 7th January 2017 09:42

swifty i also made a steel frame for the rear clam it comes down from the hinges at the top down each side of rear window and across under bottom edge of window bracketed to inside of clam i also intended to fit gas struts but after buying some (3 sets)strong enough to hold clam up i found that when fitted and clam was closed they had the effect of trying to "stretch" the clam and forced it backwards opening up the gap between the door rear edge where it meets the clam so i ditched this idea and fitted a hinged stay(1" inch box section) centrally using the old rear bonnet catch mounts on the back panal up to the new rear support frame inside the clam so when you lift clam it folds out and locks into position holding it up also it gave me somewhere to route new wiring to rear lights the problem is that the struts have to be so strong to hold the weight of the clam that when closed they exert so much force they try to force the clam apart if you manage to get around this let me know i even considered fitting a electric/hydraulic ram to mine but havnt found anything suitable and yes my build includes paint around 500 quid in 2 pak but i did all prep / paint myself so i probably saved at least 1000 if not more,i was quoted 1200 just to shoot the paint,but i have all the equipment so i didnt make sense another thing i found was a lot of air pockets in the f/glass had to do a lot of grinding out/ filling i went over the whole kit with a heat gun(not too hot) to highlight any defects it has the effect of raising any problem areas that need grinding out/filling and there were quite a few to sort out it took a lot of filler/time to get right from memory i think the roof and "ears"and roof scoop edges were the worst its were there is a very tight radius/corner f/glass dosent want to form into them right check yours i think you will see what i mean

SwiftyDS 7th January 2017 11:31

Thanks Mick for the pointers on the paint prep - was going to try to do as much prep myself as possible but have budgeted a decent amount for a paint shop in the build

If you get chance when you're next out in the car would you mind taking a couple of pics of your clam frame for me?

Will let you know if I find a way round the gas struts in terms of enough force to open but not so they force the clam when closed.

Thanks again

SwiftyDS 12th January 2017 15:37

I removed the final parts from the MR2 donor yesterday so everything is off now and I've made a start with fitting the front bumper support bar. As expected it needed a bit of fettling to get the height right and to level it up on both sides.

Offering the bumper up it's clear that it will need some additional support in the arch area and, as I think Mick has done, this should also allow for the inner arches to be extended / supported.

Next on the plan is to fit the rear clam support frame and then paint black the two frames and tidy up a couple of areas of the MR2 frame.

I finally bit the bullet on choice of wheels/tyres and ordered a set of Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2s gloss white in 17" with offset/ET 20 wrapped in Toyo Proxes T1Rs, 205 40s on the front and 215 40s on the rear. With ET20 the plan is to use 20mm spacers on the rear only, but will confirm this once they arrive as unfortunately there is a 6 - 8 week to have them cast.

More pics to follow when the weather improves.

Nostromo 15th January 2017 12:37

Man that's a long time to wait for the wheels. Pretty cool that they're being specially made for you though and they'll look awesome on the car too. The 20mm spacer should be perfect. When I talked to Andy, he said the rear needs an offset of 0 to bring the wheel out to the edge of the arch so you also shouldn't need a spacer for the front.

SwiftyDS 15th January 2017 12:57

I know - I was tempted to go bigger offset and use spacers front and back but even Et35/38 were made to order

SwiftyDS 3rd February 2017 08:19

Rear clam support frame now fitted with some fettling needed to get it true and level with the clam sat on it. Clam taken off again so frame could be painted along with the front bumper support bar getting painted.

I'd read about pitfalls of using hammerite type paint. In the end I rubbed the frames down and used Fortress metal paint. Two coats (picture below of the rear support was after the first coat but you see final result on the front picture.

I managed to pick up a K&N induction kit with correct inlet pipe which I will fit next along with a sports exhaust that is in transit from the US. I plan to leave engine mods at that for the start and then will complete cutting out the remaining holes for lights, air intakes on the bodywork before starting the fix the sills then the rest of the panels.

I just heard that the TD Pro Race 1.2 wheels and tyres I ordered are in transit so a couple of weeks ahead of when I expected which is good news. I just need to sort out rear spacers then we should be in a position to line front and rear panels up.

Nostromo 3rd February 2017 09:00

I was wondering about an induction kit. I've heard they're not great on the MR2 due to the position and too much heat soak. I thought it might work better on the MRS200 as you could fit it inside the void under the rear screen out of he way of the engine?

* Just for info, if you were thinking of getting spacers from Freakyparts, the lead time was about three weeks to get them made up.

SwiftyDS 3rd February 2017 09:06

Yes that's exactly what I thought - the kit I've bought places the filter behind the battery and would normally be fed with air from the MR2 side scoops. I was going to look at channeling air from the side scoops in the rear clam and I will also fit some ally panelling around battery area to reduce heat from exhaust

smash 3rd February 2017 12:53

Bit of trivia: I went to John Cradduck's funeral last week. He was a clay modeller for Ford. He was responsible for reshaping the RS200 front arches. Lovely bloke.

SwiftyDS 3rd February 2017 14:00

I'm amazed the more I look into the history of the RS200 development the more I find a group of dedicated individuals who made something at the time very special happen. Not sure what John would think of an MR2 based replica though.

smash 3rd February 2017 14:40

As long as it's fast he'd love it! Total speed freak

SwiftyDS 5th February 2017 07:57

My wheels turned up late Friday and are now on the car. I went for 17" all round ET25 with Toyo Proxes 205r40 on the front and 215r40 on the back.

I wasn't expecting them for another couple of weeks as I was quoted 6 - 8 weeks from ordering as they weren't in stock given the offset so I now need to pull my finger out and get the spacers ordered for the back; 20mm hubcentric spacers.

Nostromo - were you happy with your spacers when they turned up and did you have to wait a while for them to be delivered?

A couple of weeks back I also managed to source a pair of newly recovered seats in leather and alcantara to replace the red cloth in the donor I bought. I know stuff like this should be lower down the budget list but they were a bargain so they've also been fitted and I just need to replace the red cloth on the door panels with either black leather or alcantara - genuine alcantara is mega money so may well end up going black leather. They are pre facelift MR2 seats but I actually prefer them without the hole to the facelift versions.

retro200 5th February 2017 08:22

ayup swifty nice wheels + seats i have h+r 20mm spacers in the rear with et25, 225 tyres lines em up spot on you shouldnt need any in the front mine was ok without as pics on f/book keep up the good work, mick

SwiftyDS 5th February 2017 08:56

Thanks Mick - yes I trial fitted front bumper again last night and they looked OK on the front but I've only got 205 tyres on the front as I was trying to create some element of "stagger" front to rear so may need to go with a spacer still

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