interesting post here on a car detailing forum (yes there is such a thing) coming from a different perspective ,some detail shots in the post and some links with better high res picshttp://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=353277 dont bother going past the original post as no other car pics

What a great looking example, certainly some inspiration there.

Ferrari Berlinetta SWB 250GT SEFAC Hot Rod
 

So there I was, leafing through a "Million Dollar Classics" book in "The Works" yesterday when I spotted a Ferrari Berlinetta SWB 250GT SEFAC Hot Rod in dark blue.

Interesting, I thought- so interesting that I didn't even notice what wheels it had fitted but it did have... chrome bumpers.

Quarters at the front but a full width one at the rear- has anyone sourced these???

think you'll have to make your own or find something similar that fits

maybe some moulded glassfibre items with chrome powder coating ?


looking at the pics they are def. more involved
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-ashQL0BluaM/S0...8/IMG_1030.JPG
and the rear with the long spears back to the rear arches
http://lh3.ggpht.com/-wdOKHMl8iBU/S0...8/IMG_1032.JPG

may be its a case of looking at older items for a better shape like these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CLASSIC-SI...#ht_118wt_1348

[Police Loud Hailer Voice]

STOP!

Put the photos of, and links to, bumpers down.

Now step away from the tread with your hands on your head.

[/Police Loud Hailer Voice]

:icon_wink:

:hail: :tape::sorry:

glad you stopped me i was on a mission to find some suitable items ..i've edited my post a little:focus:

maybe tribute at some point may add them as an extra in fibreglass? ...along with a replica dash/door cards

chris?....

E type versions look good for the front. Molded with fibreglass and filled with expanding foam would give a nice classic version of a crumple zone/splitter. Not too ball barish either. Back of the bumper could be cut to allow a snug fit or extended for extra travel :-). Only thought i had was how to attach them eg a bolt on rod or clamp to the donor.

I am not, but if I was building this car, I'd probably make a Spitfire rear bumper fit.
Readily available and relatively cheap

[IMG]http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps67tgfkvm.jpg[/IMG]

I know this is Mister Towed's build, so he can do what ever he likes.

But I really think this car looks miles better without bumpers. :cool:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7579/...f7aa00e5_b.jpg

Got to agree with Paul that it looks better without the bumpers, but for anyone who wants the Lusso look rather than the race look, the Spitfire bumper looks to have real possibilities - a whole one at the back and the ends cut off for the front maybe?

Why use a Spitfire bumper?
Use one of these..........
http://www.bumperworld.nl/bumpers/ferrari/s/40

Perhaps a Spitty bumper may be a bit cheaper? :-)

Yes Mr T, with a bit chopped off the two arms methinks.

and the middle bit swapped upside down to do away with the number plate light hole

Could you use the rear bumperettes from the Austin Healey for the front quarters? These are on eBay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3217099937...84.m1436.l2649

They look like they could work, as could the similar (proper) Mini ones at under £30 per pair new.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-BRAND-NE...item27fc21c4c8

I'm not going to be fitting bumpers to mine as I'm aiming for a 'Lusso adapted for the track' look, a sort of gentleman's weekend luxury racer rather than an out and out race car or junior limo.

It's always interesting to see the ideas people have as to how other/unusual parts can be adapted to suit a kit car, so feel free to use this thread to discuss any ideas you might have. :first:

...speaking of which, my side repeater indicators turned up today -

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psaazvtfv0.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psondc4e1p.jpg

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9wquvif1.jpg

They're NOS (new, old stock) from the Autobianchi A112

http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psrnmjbuza.jpg

They cost me £31 including p&p from Greece via ebay.

I'm really pleased with them, they look the part, the quality is what I'd describe as good enough and they have a pleasingly period feel to them as they've been sitting unused on a shelf since about 1970.

Whatever did we do for spare and rare parts before the internet put us in touch with sellers anywhere in the world?

And I was a luddite who spent years ignoring the 'web, believing it to be of no use to me personally. How wrong I was...

Nice looking 2.0 donor listed on ebay today -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1999-BMW-Z...item43d9f8d5dd

Sadly doesn't have a/c or cruise control or I'd have hit the 'buy it now' button as it looks to be an honest sale (nothing to do with me btw).

They look ideal. Do you have the URL/ebay link?

y cymro, I also bought a pair of these yesterday and he had them listed as 'last pair available'. I did find another set though coming from Malta but they are slightly more expensive
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ferrari-Ma...item4d2f2e7b37

All I would say is be careful with them as the plastic is brittle.

Y Cymro - I am thinking of changing mine so if they have run out let me know.

I have posted a link back in the thread for lancia items as well which would look good

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LANCIA-FLA.../400891836905?

Or these actually listed as ferrari 250 items

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4008477922...#ht_198wt_1141

Yep, I'd seen those two links and they do look the business but they're not far off twice the price of the Autobianchi ones I bought.

Can't remember who, but one European contributor has talked of spending e20,000 to put one of these on the road, and it would be easy to spend such a significant sum if you insist on absolute parts originality and contract out jobs such as trim and paint to professionals.

With this build I'm aiming to strictly control the costs while ending up with something that looks convincing - I completely blew my budget out of the water on the Spyder, spending almost double what I set out to - so I'm looking to use as many great vfm parts as possible and will be doing all the work myself (with the exception of a headlining).

So far I've managed to source a pair of suitable leather seats for £100 (around a £400 saving against new, period looking leather buckets), a set of period looking wheels for under £100 (£1,000 cheaper than suitable wires & adaptors) and a pair of side repeaters for £31 (£25 cheaper than the Lancia alternative).

With a planned budget of £7,500 the savings so far of £1,425 mean that I can spend more on a much better donor. My expectation is that a really good donor will save me money in both the build and on longer term running costs: I should get more back for the panels, interior and parts than from a scruffy clunker, I'll need to spend less time and money refurbishing the running gear (getting my Vitesse chassis and drivetrain back into shape added about 9 months and £2000 to my Spyder build) and I should end up with a more reliable and better driving car once it's finished.

I know I only saved about £25 with those repeaters, but if I can do that on ten more items then the combined savings will pay for the tyres.

That's the plan, anyway...

and a good plan it is...i'm useless with money ha ha

as you say good condition items from a clean donor will sell and return you more money then a ratty example,thus putting more in the kitty to spend on the build.

and taking your lead i bought a pair of the autobianchi indicators for the bargain price of £31 delivered from Greece.

going back to the tyre talk from the other thread etc 185/15 vr cheapest so far approx £130 each vredestein classic

can get H rated up to 130mph cheaper

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SUMMER-TYR...ht_1223wt_1348

funny saw that as well ...looks like her dad is selling it for her and it had low mileage at 80k

Oponeo have the H rated sprint classics for £80 each including delivery -

http://www.oponeo.co.uk/tyre-details...-91-h#88682850

Camskill did have them at £75 each, but appear to have sold out. :(

I'm holding off on buying the tyres until I've got the donor - if it's a 2 litre or less it'll be the HR sprint classics, anything bigger and it'll have to be 205/65/VR15's, a size that comes in loads of choices at the £60 to £80 each mark.

sounds good to me ...

as you surf the web you've probably come across gto engineering they do all maor of remanufactured ferrari items,rebuilds,resto's etc etc

http://www.gtoengineering.com/blogs/cars-for-sale as you can see they list a 250swb recreation ...so i had to enquire

Thank you for your interest in our 1960 250 SWB Competition Berlinettas. The standard specification includes an aluminium body, 3-litre ‘250’ competition engine (Tipo 128F) with a 4-speed gearbox, painted and trimmed in leather to your specifications, and available in LHD or RHD. Our cars are visually and mechanically indistinguishable from the real thing. The price for this is GBP £440,000. The standard car can have various options and upgrades, details and pricing for which are below. We have now sold nine cars, six completed and delivered, seventh car is completed and awaiting delivery, eighth car chassis finished, body is being fitted.

We use an original period or later Ferrari identity, which we can supply or you can supply yourself. Build time is currently approx. 12-18 months from order/deposit. The deposit requirement is £150,000, plus 50% of the extras, and the identity if purchased from us. VAT is payable if applicable.

SWB Additional Options

1 Small Spot Lamps - £1,200
2 Bug Screen - £620
3 Exhaust Snaps - £2,500
4 Roll Hoop and Leather Padding - £2,500
5 Heater - £1,850
6 Ashtray - £1,000
7 Cigarette Lighter - £165
8 Air Conditioning - £35,000

SWB Upgrade Options

9 3.5-litre Engine - £15,000
10 4.0-litre Engine - £20,000
11 Competition Sump - £5,250
12 High Mechanical Pump Front Cover Exchange, Pump & Glass Fuel Bowl - £7,280
13 Electronic Ignition - £1,000
14 Lightweight Starter - £400
15 Dynator - £1,850
16 5-speed Gearbox - £6,800
17 Lightweight Aluminium Ribbed Gearbox Centre Section - £2,600
18 Full Competition Gearbox - £22,000
19 Small Steering Wheel - £1,200
20 Quicker 17:1 Steering Ratio - £950
21 Lighter & more heat efficient Aluminium Brake Callipers - £2,308
22 Polished Wide Wheels - £2,000
23 Original-type Horn - £1,200

Please let me know how we can help further, I look forward to hearing from you.

Kind Regards
Joanna Lyon


the price isnt that bad considering how much an original one is so i've gone out and bought a lottery ticket..:party:

440.000 for a "real"one.............as you buy an original one for 20 million you must feel ripped..........

I wish you hadn't posted that price list - if Chris reads that post he might put his prices up!

£1,200 for a pair of spot lamps? What are they made of, diamonds soaked in truffle oil?

Six hundred and twenty quid for a bug screen? It's only a bit of Perspex bolted to the bonnet!

They're having a laugh. Even if I won the Euromillions I wouldn't pay those overinflated prices, I'd rather walk. Or build one myself...

They must have been having a look at the Realm Engineering website, their prices are very similar for XKSS bits and bobs!
Which is one reason I am making it all myself.

These look nice -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2517453017...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Of course, the fitting kit is £1,165.15 +vat. :(

Tell you what- I'll fit them for £1,165.5 incl VAT and I'll have "Marshal" etched on the glass for you.

Bargain, they'd still be £233.10 cheaper than the optional ones from GTO Engineering. :fear:

Those would be the ones with "SEV-Marchal" moulded into the glass !!!

It's funny how fate can intervene in things.

I have been struggling for some time to decide on what tyres to go for. I liked the idea of original size 185/80/15 Vredestein sprint classics, which are available in H and V speed ratings.

The issue I had was with the choice of donor - as discussed on another thread, any Z3 with a motor larger than the 2.0 six needs V rated tyres fitting.

I want this car to come in under budget, so I had set aside no more than £320 per set of four (fitted), which would rule out V rated Sprint Classics as they are around £150 each.

So the backup plan if I happen to get a 2.2 or 2.8 donor was to use Vredestein Sportrac tyres in a more modern size - 205/65/15V, which would come in at about £280 for a set.

So, I was searching on line for the best price for those when someone ebay listed a set of part-worn Sportrac 3's, recently removed from an E-Type.

They were in suitable sizes - a pair of 205/65/15V's and a pair of 225/60/15V's, and have 6mm tread remaining. Best of all, they were priced at under £100 for all four with best offer facility.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2618105461...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

So, best offer declined, counter offer accepted by me, £85 paid and hoping to collect them tomorrow or Thursday.

That's the tyres sorted on a budget then. :)

You could get them from Eurospares without the 350% markup

http://www.eurospares.co.uk/partsLis...&Mo=536&G=9&S=

this kit car s cheaperhttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JAPAN-EXCL...item234df2ff95

Interesting site, now bookmarked for reference.

Everything does look suitably expensive - I'd been looking for a source of those lazy 's' shaped bonnet pins for ages but I don't think I'll be buying any at £225 per pair (plus vat and p&p?), especially as I found this US MG forum where a chap eventually made his own for less than eighteen bucks the pair (on page 2) -


http://www.mgexp.com/phorum/read.php?1,1043799

The tail lights look really good too, but is there really going to be enough difference between them and the ones Chris put on his parts list to justify about five times the price?

It's now become a bit of a personal challenge for me to keep the costs down as low as possible without compromising the way the car looks. :juggle:

Yep, could be a good starting point to upscale it on a 3D printer then use the copy as a buck to have the panels hand beaten in aluminium. With a suitable engine, gearbox and diamond studded spot lamps soaked in truffle oil it shouldn't cost more than about £440,000...

Youn can take a stainless spoke from a motorbike,bend it in the right shape,weld it on a stainless acorn nut with the flanges turned off,screw a stainless bolt with the head cut off into the nut..........there you go!
Costs almost nothing.