Yes the reservoir is shallow but quite wide. I never thought about it before but you are probably right in that it is to clear the bonnet on the TR6.
It's interesting how all the bits from different marques fit one another. I guess there was a lot of plagiarism going on in those days. The servo also looks almost identical to the Metro one that the Sportster used - except the mounting studs are at different centres.
Cheers Robin

The car designers had a massive parts bin to chose from. Think how many marques fell under the "Leyland" banner in the end.

Stage 1 complete
 

The chassis is now in the man-shed ready for the start of refurbishment and re-assembly! It fiited lengthways with only a few inches to spare but fortunately plenty of space widthwise. I had measured it up beforehand but you never know if there is going to be any unforseen issues.
The downside is that I promissed my wife the kitcen refurbishment would start once the chassis was in its new home so progress may slow down for a while....

The chassis is very sound but covered in a mixture of old paint and surface rust. Any suggestions how best to remove it greatfully received. I am trying to avoid mechanical (wire brush in drill) means as it makes such a mess.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5c6e1c17_b.jpgin_man-shed1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

Cheers, Robin

There are 'rust removers' and 'rust converters', and in my experience both do a 'good job'. Maybe just a case of research and 'choose your poison'?

You could take it back outside and give it a thorough jetwash (meanest setting) on a sunny day. Then back inside for some of the above.

I used this stuff on mine and found it very good -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AQUASTEEL...r/264680865517

The rust converters work by using dilute phosphoric acid (sometimes tannin as well as/instead of?) to give a protectived iron phosphate coating - In my experience, they work well and are easy to use (wear eye protection).
The rust removers do exactly that - if it's a rough, pitted surface it will end up rough & pitted (minus rust) which can be good for paint adhesion. I used some 10 years ago on the outside of brake drums and with red oxide, undercoat, and satin paint there has been no return of rust (FLW's). Takes a lot of time/brushing and mess though (a jelly version is suitable for chassis or similar.). For small parts the fluid version is great, as you just leave the parts submerged for a day or more (which is very easy of course).

Have you considered powder coating the chassis ? Very cost effective and the finish will be like new. I recently had my Scimitar chassis done which is bigger and more complex, it only cost £250 including collection and delivery.

Well done getting that in your shed!!
I find Hammerite Rust Remover Gel works very well and you can get it in Halfords. Sometimes it needs a couple of goes and it may not get into every small corrosion pit so a rust converter is useful to kill what's left.
I think you may have recommended the Hammerite stuff to me some years ago :biggrin1:

Ah. Could have done. So now you recommended it to me does that mean I recommended it to myself? :-)

Cheers Robin

:icon_lol::icon_lol::icon_lol:

Door catches
 

I am using the IVA manual as a bit of a guide while rebuilding the Roadster even though it is already registered and has no need for an IVA test or even an MOT due to its age.
I would like to use some IVA compliant door catches which means using the two stage claw type. I liked those used on the Sportster, as the handle and latch were all incorporated into one unit, but they were supplied by Marlin so I don't know where they originated from. Can anyone suggest where I might get them from?

Cheers, Robin

A sensible approach. If it's any use there was an article in Complete Kit Car last year detailing how to link a bear-claw to an individual handle on a traditional roadster.

Hi Robin,
I think the catches your looking for are like these...
https://live.staticflickr.com/206/47...f31fc54f_z.jpgDoor lock fitting by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I think from memory these are the ones........
https://stedall.co.uk/product/anti-burst-cab-locks-rh/
https://stedall.co.uk/product/anti-burst-cab-locks-lh/
I was surprised how expensive they are and the strikers are extra!

If you google 'anti-burst locks or latches' you may find others like these...
https://www.europaspares.com/anti-bu...-strikers.html

And I also found these that look like a bargain...........
https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/Moore-4-M...bkw=anti+burst

I also found this article that you may find interesting.........
http://morganrebuild.co.uk/RemovingDoor.html

Oh the joy of Google!!

cheers, Peter

You'll have to give lessons! I spent ages googling without coming up with anything. The catcescon ebay look like they should fit the bill. As possibly the LandRover ones referred to in the Morgan article. Anything Land Rover related generally seem to be in plentiful supply. And sensibly priced.
Cheers Robin

That's a good idea. In fact many years ago I used a sand blast attachment on my Karcher to good (if messy!) effect so I might do that. My lawn could do with some sand treatment anyway ;-)

Cheers, Robin

You could also consider these from Car Builder Solutions. Probably the smallest available. Think about the fixing method of the PIN. It will need some strengthening as the GRP rear tub will not give enough strength and will fracture over time.
https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/mini-b...ches-pair-75mm
https://www.carbuilder.com/images/th...-pair_625.jpeg

Prototype door
 

The original Marlin Roadster doors are pretty small due to the position of the running boards. But as I am going for cycle wings I thought I would take advantage of the extra depth. So I have removed the frame that the doors shut on. The picture shows a mock up of the new door with much better access. Should be much easier to get in now I am not quite so flexible as I used to be lol. I still have to add something for the door to close against at the bottom.

The original doors are basically a lump of 25mm ply skinned in aluminium. I plan to do something similar with the new doors although I will probably make the plywood more of a frame to keep the weight down. In my drive for a bit more safety I am planning to use anti-burst door catches from the series 3 Land Rover, as also used by Morgan. (Thanks to Peter for the suggestion.) More pictures once the catch arrives and I have made the first door....

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c07dce0a_b.jpgoriginal_door1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...074bcb3e_b.jpgprototype_door1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b2f30064_b.jpgprototype_door2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

Nice work, Robin. That will look so much better and make it easier getting in and out.
Are you going for the nice curved top to rest your arm on?

Hi Robin
I'm watching your rebuild with interest.
I have a Roadster that needs completing. Hoping to get going on it next year, I've said that for the last 3 years. Life keeps getting in the way.
Lots of ideas in my head, cycle wings and bigger doors for ease of access (not getting any younger).
I have attempted to add a picture of a Marlin with the same doors

I have finished making the prototype door and have been experimenting a bit with cleaning and painting the chassis.

I have used a Land Rover latch as suggested by Peter. Morgan also use this type of latch but I suspect they must have a special version of it as the standard one has handles both on the inside and outside plus a lock barrel. I only wanted the inside handle and so the lock barrel and outside handle have been "treated" with the Dremel.
The standard Land Rover striker is HUGE and so I have made one myself a little more in keeping with the scale of the Marlin.

The current chassis finish is a mixture of old paint, rust and old paint & rust. Where the chassis is visible I have cleaned it back to bare metal. Other places I have flattened the old paint and treated the rust as appropriate. Then applied several coats of Isopon Zinc 182 primer. It's beginning to get there but will need at least another coat particularly where it's visible and I have flattened it back. One big relief is it didn't react with the existing paint so where there is no rust I can just flatten it back without having to strip it all off.

I am now on the hunt for some decent plywood to make the doors proper from. Not so easy as one might think nowadays...

Cheers, Robin

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...98032cc8_b.jpgdoor_with_latch by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...42d76020_c.jpgmodified_lr_latch by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8dffd61c_c.jpgstriker_plate by Robin Martin, on Flickr