Couldn't resist trying a splined hub and wire wheel. The hubs were intended for one of the small Triumphs, but as these share a lot of parts with the Marina I gambled they would fit.
They look awfully wide until you fit a wheel at which point - they look perfect IMHO...
Cheers, Robin
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...eb51e91d_b.jpgsplined_hub by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6e90dfea_b.jpgwire_wheel by Robin Martin, on Flickr

Looks good!

Hi Robin
I love the look of wires on the Roadster.
When I originally built my roadster back in 1986 I fitted adaptors and wires like you.
WARNING: Make sure the wire wheel seats correctly onto the tapered part of the adapter. I had loads of problems with mine until I realised the wheels were seating onto the top of the wheel studs. After grinding them back flush with the wheel nuts I managed to get them to work correctly. Hope this makes sense.
Jon

Good tip ! I usually put a blob of paint onto each wheel stud and fit the wheel. Remove it again and check for paint on the back of the wheel.

Thanks for the comments and tips. STILL waiting for my Ikea kitchen so progress continues. After a lot of delays the zintec steel for my front and rear bulkheads arrived. I am making them from steel as opposed to the original alluminium for strength. The front bulkhead tends to crack arround the pedal box and the rear bulkhead has the seatbelts mounted to it. I was able to use my newly beefed up bender for the first time. As expected the folds are fairly soft but fine for the purpose.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4a8edf21_c.jpgon_a_bender by Robin Martin, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2c70c4dc_c.jpgrear_bulkhead2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

It fits considerably better than the original factory made effort - even if I do say so myself!

Cheers, Robin

nice work!

Very neat job !

Heater Options
 

I am currently re-making the front bulkhead of DRL152K and, as that is where it may be mounted, I am thinking about heater options. I wondered what others have done and I have a few questions.

Is it worth the effort fitting windscreen demisters? I will only very occasionally be using a hood.
Is it worth trying to get fresh air in, or is a simple recirculating heater the better (and simpler!) option.
And where is the best place to mount the heater? I was going to put it on top the bulkhead, as per the manual, but if I use one of the smaller aftermarket jobbies (T7 design is favourite) it's probably small enough to sit under the dashboard on top of the transmission tunnel.

Cheers, Robin

I had one of these in my Spyder -

https://www.t7design.co.uk/2-2kw-mic...9-cc4-d35.html

It never really put much heat out, I'm afraid, even taking into account that it was in a completely open car. I've gone for a much bigger heater matrix from a production car (VW Corrado) with a surface mount fan for my latest project, which is also going to be completely open.

As for fresh air inlet and demisting, the two really go hand in hand and I'd say they will be essential for safety reasons if you get caught in a downpour with the hood up.

I have made some good progress on replacing the front bulkhead. The original was rather tired and had a scary crack from pressure from the pedal box.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3af1ab1f_c.jpgcracked by Robin Martin, on Flickr
I have made the replacement in steel, the same as the rear bulkhead. Proved to be quite tricky getting it right particularly at the bottom arround the chassis members. I have a couple of closing plates to still to fit there.
The pedal box is also trial fitted. I have made a L & H shaped reinforcement from 25mm angle to help spread the load. The clutch pedal needs a little adjustment using the blowtorch and hammer it seems.
The observant might notice there are 2 rows of fixings at the top rear of the bulkhead. The original design used the same fixings both to fix the scuttle (dashboard) moulding and secure the bulkhead to a chassis crossmember. I decided to make those seperate thereby improving the strength. I know the fixings are stainless, generally frowned upon for anything structural, but there are enough of them to well distribute any loads. On the final assembly I will also bond the bulkhead using a Sikaflex adhesive - same as I did on the Pembleton.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...50f9535e_c.jpgfront_bulkhead1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5b11f485_c.jpgfront_bulkhead2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

Next job: overhaul the steering rack and decide on the position for the steering column. I want it under, rather than through, the dash as in the original design. The orginal Marina steering column is pretty shot so I am thinking of using one from a Triumph Spitfire for which you can still get things like bushes.

Cheers for now, Robin

Very neat, and it will bring greater peace of mind.

It inspires me to get back to my project.

Nice work Robin, as expected :happy:
Perhaps you should make a few more for other Marlin restorers?

Awesome work Robin :)

I have almost (see below) completed the revised steering column arrangement. The column now exits at the bottom of the dash, instead of through it, and the steering wheel is angled at about the same inclination as the dash, instead of being almost vertical.

The arrangement under the bonnet loooks a bit odd due to the fact that the steering rack is mounted so high in the Marina. But it gives me a nice angle between the lower and upper steering column which the SVA people would be delighted with. The idea is, in a front end crash, the upper steering column is not directed straight into the drivers chest! It should also miss all the engine ancilliaries, fingers crossed.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...51989d33_c.jpgsteering_shaft by Robin Martin, on Flickr

From the bulkhead backwards the steering column is mounted on some sturdy, and adjustable, brackets. I made the steering column itself using some Triumph bushes and an alluminium tube. And, yes, the brackets do use exhaust clamps, but after a lot of thinking they seemed the easiest and sturdiest way of mounting.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...321c057c_c.jpgsteering_column3 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4bccc267_c.jpgsteering_column1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

I said almost completed.... I was very satisfied with the result until I offered up the pedal box and, despite carefull measuring, found the lower support bracket fouled the brake pedal. Grrrr - the air was a bit blue. Anyway, after sleeping on it I have come up with a slightly different bracket which should be fine. I'll post a picture when I have fabricated it. Which could be some time as my Ikea kitchen is due to arrive Tuesday. I have told the wife it's her Christmas present ;-)

Cheers, Robin

I have made a little progress inbetween kitchen fitting. I have remade the lower steering column mount so it now clears the pedals. While I was at it I bent the clutch pedal so it is now a more sensible distance from the brake pedal. (Perhaps the original builder had big feet!)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b1758e9c_c.jpgsteering_column5 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
And it was pointed out to me that the angle that the steering UJ was running at seemed to exceed the 35deg recommended max. They were right! I have jiggled things a bit, mainly rotating the steering rack, and now the UJ is working within the 35deg. I could probably reduce the angle even further but I thought I would wait until a trial fit of the engine just in case I have to do any more rethinking of the steering shaft.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e0bc05a2_c.jpgrevised_steering_shaft by Robin Martin, on Flickr
Now back to the kitchen fitting.... It's too cold in the man shed anyway :-)
Cheers, Robin

I hope you won't mind me saying..... I may be wrong, but I think it's the "correct way" for the Uj's on the shaft to be 'in-phase' ie, lined up so they are a mirror image so that when the shaft turns it effectively stays the same length if that makes sense. If out of phase the shaft won't stay straight as it revolves? Obviously more important for a fast-moving item such as a prop shaft, but still probably improves things even for a steering column?

p.s I've just looked back at the photos and in the first one the alignment looks correct, in the latest one it maybe isn't?

Took me a few minutes but I see what you mean. As far as I am aware it doesn't really apply to steering shafts. But I will do some Googling to check.
The problem with the first arrangement is that the UJ at the steering wheel end (the shiney new one) was running at about 38deg. According to the manufacturer (and some other wise sages :-) ) the maximum angle is 35deg otherwise you are in danger of wearing it out quickly and/or, in extreme cases, locking it up.

Cheers, Robin

Not as easy to describe as seeing a picture - a picture paint a thousand words as they say. Yes the 'lobes' need to be in line end -to-end. I'd suspect running it out of phase is more likely to wear it though and the steering may feel jerky?

Scuttle Top
 

After a great deal of fitting and re-fitting I finally have the scuttle top fixed in place. It needed a lot of fettling to get it to fit and even now, if I was to be critical, its a little too narrow - it could do with being about 4mm wider.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e4266c65_c.jpgscuttle_top1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
The front lip, which fixes to the bulkhead also is not flat and had to be pulled into place. I will have to bed it into some sealant when I finally fix it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...39165c1f_c.jpgscuttle_top2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
I have also bonded in a couple of plenums so I can have windscreen demisters. I have drilled a series of holes in the scuttle top rather than cutting a slot. You can just see them in the first picture with a rather flimsy aluminium surround purchased from the well know kit car bits place, as were the plenums.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6451dc59_c.jpgdemister by Robin Martin, on Flickr

Kitchen now almost complete so I hope progress to be a bit faster. One can always hope...

Cheers, Robin

Looking good, just one question. Where did you fit the kitchen? There is no room in my Marlin!

Looks very neat and tidy :thumb:

Door and windscreen frame
 

I have been making slow progress albeit going a bit from one thing to another.
The windscreen frame has to be one of the Roadster's main features doubling up as a roll bar. However I was never very happy with it in the "raw" state. It is bent from a solid steel bar with a slot milled on the inside to take the screen. This left very sharp edges and some hollows in it from the bending process. So I have taken the angle grinder and P38 to it. Looks much more acceptable now.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...16ab7567_c.jpgwindscreen_frame2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...84f6f9b1_c.jpgwindscreen_frame1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

I have also completed a prototype door. The plan is to use a solid plywood core as in the original Marlin supplied door. However decent plywood is sooooo expensive now I made the proof of concept door from MDF. I have now skinned it in alluminium (left over from the Pembleton build). I am pretty pleased with the result and now happy to take the saw and router to the final plywood version. The latch is from a landrover, modified by removing the outside handle and lock barrel. I was going to use a Morgan latch but they are now over GBP70 each whereas the landrover one is GBP30.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2b968bfe_c.jpgdoor_prototype1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a308b172_c.jpgdoor_prototype2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

Cheers, Robin

Engine
 

Never buy an engine from ebay and someone you don't know were the words echoing in my head as I handed over my hard earned.....
Anyway the story is BMC 1800 engine (Marina, MGB etc.) for sale on Ebay. It had an almost unbelievable spec with a Vulcan gas flowed head, Piper camshaft etc etc and had never been run since its rebuild. Of course I smelt a rat particularly as it had had a quick blow over with black paint. Anyway - I persued it and the story had a certain ring of truth. Advertised by an older, and and possibly a bit naive, guy. He had purchased it for his MGB but then found it was originally from a Marina TC and wouldn't fit. The crankshaft spigot bearing is much smaller for a Marina. So he decided to sell it on Ebay and, not suprisingly as it wouldn't easily fit an MGB, hadn't had a lot of interest. So a bit of negotiation ending up in a price that was far less than what just the head was worth and the engine was mine. He even delivered it.
Today I couldn't resist any longer and started the checking process. The plan is to dismantle and re-assemble it anyway not trusing work that someone else has done. An engine built to this spec should have certain features, double valve springs, duplex timing chain etc. And I am pleased to say it all looks good so far!
The head has clearly had a lot of work - you can see the porting through intlet and exhaust ports.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c613cfff_c.jpgengine4 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...db847c6f_c.jpgengine3 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
And it has the requisite double valve springs and duplex timing chain.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3b2a0cca_c.jpgengine2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...fd77da5b_c.jpgengine1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

The next step is to get it on to the engine stand and pull it apart a bit more. But so far looking good.....

Cheers, Robin

That reminds me of the first time I used Ebay...... We were moving 19 years ago, and I'd bought a TC engine from the scrappy a few years previously and gleaned the head and front pulley from it (all it needed was a slightly larger fan belt) to use on my MGB engine. Anyway, back to the story. In my Ebay nativity I started it off at 99p as I wanted it shifting as I didn't want to take it with us. Guy 'won' it for

That reminds me of the first time I used Ebay...... We were moving 19 years ago, and I'd bought a TC engine from the scrappy a few years previously and gleaned the head and front pulley from it (all it needed was a slightly larger fan belt) to use on my MGB engine. Anyway, back to the story. In my Ebay nativity I started it off at 99p as I wanted it shifting as I didn't want to take it with us. Guy 'won' it for 1.20. he turned up in a battered old car with all the family (Wife and 2 young kids) having driven from the Midlands to south Essex. he got out of the car saying "that was handy, I work at an engine reconditioners and have been looking for one for nearly a year - that will do nicely, can you give us a hand with getting it in the boot? Here's your 1.20, I raided the kids piggy bank"
I'd have at least given 10, having just made that statement, it probably had 5 scrap value! Anyway, off he went on the journey back, and I wondered if the floor of the old car would support the block all the way :fear:

Head Completed
 

I have now completed the dissassembly and reassembly of the head. It's now resplendant in MGB maroon which I understand would have been the original colour. Everything looked pretty good. The head has been gasflowed to what I suppose is stage 2. I am no expert but it looks pretty much as Peter Burgess describes in his MGB tuning book with the exception of hardened exhaust seats which it doesn't seem to have. Which leads me to think all the work on it was done many moons ago.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...95216dbc_c.jpgstripped_head by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...716518d5_c.jpgreassembled_head by Robin Martin, on Flickr
During the strip and reassembly process I also cleared out all the waterways by blanking off the thermostat position and filling it with a solution of Rust Destructor and letting it soak for several days. It seems to have done the trick.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...36e5c296_c.jpgderusted by Robin Martin, on Flickr
While I was at it I also measured the combustion chamber volumes so I could work out the compression ratio.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...6b494a04_c.jpgcombustion_chamber_vol by Robin Martin, on Flickr
Using the formula in Peter Burgess's book:

Engine size with +30 overbore = 1834cc. Cylinder swept area = 458.5cc
Combustion chamber volume as measured = 41cc
Clearance volume = 6.5 + 2 + 4.5 + 41 = 54cc
Compression ratio = (458.5 + 54) / 54 = 9.49

While I was at it I though it would be fun to work out the potential 0 to 60 time. Again using a formula from Peter Burgess.

0 to 60 = (2 x W / T) to the power of 0.6
W = weight – say 750 kgs = 1650 lb
T = torque – say 120 lb/ft (figure from Peter Burgess book for an engine with similar configuration)
0 – 60 = 7.3 seconds
So - no slouch then....

Cheers, Robin

Nice, like the colour. Sonuds like it'll be pretty peppy.

Yes, that does look nice and it has cleaned up well.
Looks like that engine you bought was a really good find.

I have been looking for ideas that would help to bring the exhaust out of the side of the car as Marlin intended. Marlin supplied a special exhaust downpipe which allowed this but it was a very tortured design and probably not good for gas flow. And of course it's long since you could obtain it. I even tracked down the manufacturer (Double S) and they confirmed that had binned the pattern. But after a lot of Googling and general phaffing about I have purchased this exhaust manifold - currently on its way from the USA.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...521a3a9c_c.jpgpatriot h4800 exhaust by Robin Martin, on Flickr

It's a 3 into 1 design, ending in a 2" pipe, that hugs the block. I reckon with a bit of luck I should be able to bring the exhaust out the side either under or over the chassis rail.
So the next question is does anyone have any experience of silencers? There are loads for sale on Ebay, most of which I guess are from China and of dubious quality. I am looking for something that is not outrageuosly loud, but not too quiet either.....

Cheers, Robin,

exhaust
 

Didn't SS also make the original silencer?

Yes I think SS made the complete system. But, although they remember making it, they no longer have any of the patterns. Or so they told me.

Cheers, Robin

I have pretty much finished the engine build now other than the water pump and sump.
The sump I have to swap from the original engine as the one that came with the replacement had been buchered somewhat. A bit of a pain as it means I will need both engines in the air at the same time in order to do the swap.
The water pump hmmm... the one I purchased from a well known MGB parts specialist was rubbish - the casting looking like a copy of a copy of a copy... But I think I have located something better now.
You can see from the pictures that I forked out on a vernier timing wheel. Reground camshafts (so I am told) frequently need the timing tweaking to get it 100% correct. Certainly true in my case as when I had selected the specified advance it was nowhere near where it would have been if I used the two dots on the original chain wheels.
And finally I couldn't resist trial fitting the exhaust manifold I purchased from the states. The hope is that this will help me get a side exit for the exhaust without too many tortuous turns or any cutting and shutting of the exhaust system.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...573d7fdb_c.jpgtiming1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3226839a_c.jpgengine6 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e2264dcc_c.jpgengine7 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...825d46e2_c.jpgengine5 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

And finally - purchased these from Ebay. Already a bit of a bargain, the guy that makes them reduced the width so they would fit the Roadster - FOR FREE!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...7a6d1e54_c.jpgseats by Robin Martin, on Flickr

Engine build now complete. Been a bit delayed with problems caused by poor quality parts. As the MGB is so popular you wouldn't think it would be a problem but there is pretty much nothing available from the "normal" aftermarket and everything seems to come from China. Having said that some of it is very good, but some of it absolute rubbish...
I have fitted a fancy rocker cover as the original was a bit bent, but in fact it is not a great fit so may go back to the original. And a new distributor which has an advance curve (allegedly) tweaked for stage 2. Was rather cheap though, although it looks made well enough, but it will be another 12 months or so before I can verify its operation. In the meantime I will have a go a stripping and rebuilding the original.
Some pictures.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1c358b32_c.jpgengine10 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...abb54be7_c.jpgengine11 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
The observant may notice the non-standard engine mounting rubbers. The original Marina ones are like rocking horse poo and so I have used Land Rover ones as suggested by the original Marlin build manual. These have the added advantage of lowering the engine slightly which I hope will give enough clearance for the fron carb to fit under the bonnet. The original bonnet had a couple of unslightly bulges.

Virtually zero progress on the Marlin recently due to holidays and having to catch up with some DIY stuff round the house. Oh - and I managed a freak accident and very nearly cut the tip of my thumb off. Arghh. But I have made these. Any guesses as to what they are. Hint - nothing to do with cars.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a64e48a8_c.jpgtubes by Robin Martin, on Flickr

Tea and coffee cadies for your new kitchen

Pair of Monty Python 'Black Knight' helmets for Halloween costumes?

https://i.ibb.co/PNpLRj2/vamnszp5g1d21.webp

Bit of a giveaway now as to what they will be...
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...01869549_c.jpgfirst_fit by Robin Martin, on Flickr

Trunions....
 

After several months of DIY I finally have some time to spend on the Marlin. I really should be completing the resto of the chassis but I fancied something a bit more interesting so decided to trial fit the front suspension. The Marina uses an odd setup for the front suspension using torsion bars and trunions, based on that used by the Morris Minor but, unfortunately, having no common parts. Parts are as rare as hens teeth....

The standard problem with the upright is lack of maintenance causes the lower thread on the upright to deteriorate. Ultimately the trunion can part company with the upright. Mine were no exception.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...06dde773_c.jpgupright rusted thread 2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

I was able to track down, thanks to the Marina Owners Club, some new old stock of "Walford Trunions" which were a period fix for the problem. Basically a new threaded sleeve is screwed on to the old damaged thread and a new oversize trunion fits to that.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...97178501_c.jpgoriginal and walford trunion by Robin Martin, on Flickr

You are supposed to fit the new threaded sleeve using the supplied threadlock but that was a bit suspect being 30+ years old so instead I bonded it using an industrial Araldite. Jobs a good-un. I should say that it is also tightened up to 100 Lb/ft as well!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...0360a95e_c.jpginner component of walford trunion by Robin Martin, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...505e6aa6_c.jpgwalford trunion fitted by Robin Martin, on Flickr

Finally I fitted all the bits up to the car. The Marina uses a lever arm damber but on the Marlin this is replaced by a Mini upper suspension arm and a conventional damper (not fitted yet)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2c57bd61_c.jpgfront suspension trial fit by Robin Martin, on Flickr

The critical point is that the torsion bar should pass through a hole, on the chassis where it is finally fixed, without any lateral or vertical tension. This is also the rubbish part about Marina front suspension as it makes it pretty much impossible to play with the castor or camber. Anyway after a bit of fettling it's a great fit.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...770261f9_c.jpgtorsion bar position by Robin Martin, on Flickr

Now that I am happy it fits, and I am not missing any major bits, I can take it all off again and complete the cleaning up of the chassis!

Cheers, Robin

Trunnions