cheers for the link, i had that bookmarked anyway, i will definatley be buying new as the splines on the wheels are pretty much perfect so dont want to spoil them by using naff adapters. will probably orer some whilst im away so they are there when i get back as im keen to get the chassis rolling on its intended wheels so that body fitting highlights any issues (not that im expecting any) rather than find out when i change from steels to wires.
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Might be worth shopping around first - about a year ago that set was under £140.
What tyres are you planning to use? I had originally planned to use 13" wheels and would've gone for 175/80/13's with white walls to make the wheels look bigger. This is quite a useful tool for working out the effect different tyre sizes will have on the looks, clearance and gearing - http://www.kouki.co.uk/utilities/vis...ize-calculator Anyway, have fun whatever you choose. :laugh: |
not got that far but something period looking, not sure about whitewalls though not my bag really.
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Just want to check if you are planning to have a flip up bonnet, or use AndyP57's new approach... Quote:
As the traditional Cordite/Navigator bonnet will not fit the standard Spitfire chassis. :icon_sad: This is a view of the inside of my bonnet which had hinges fitted as an optional extra. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7243.jpg Clear the front brackets are in the way and need to be removed to fit the bonnet. Unfortunately this can't be done until after the re-body inspection. This is was the original Cordite demonstrator frame looked like. http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...a/P8060151.jpg[/QUOTE] This has the front brackets removed and the hinge mounting brackets welded on. Just thought I'd mention my understanding of how I think it is meant to work. I guess if you just had to touch up the frame after cutting off the brackets it wouldn't be the end of the world. Good luck and keep us posted, Paul. :) |
Thanks I was aware of the need to remove the front bonnet towers, won't say any more but I have a cunning plan..........thanks for the heads up anyway.
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Got a phone call from Bradbury engineering late last night local time saying my engine is done dusted, bench run and ready for collection, still have a week till I'm back, torn between wanting to get back and get stuck into it and wondering wether I should have jumbo prawns for dinner again.....how's the weather?
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Nice timing. Weather is due a turn for the better at the weekend. You'll be outside in shorts and T-shirt when you fit the engine. Looking forward to pics.
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Temperatures soared to zero in Norfolk yesterday. Eastern Daily Press headline read 'Phew, what a scorcher!'
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Chassis goes off fro galvanising in the mornin so thought i better remove the bonnett mounting horns, i know they are needed for the test but they will be "applied" by nefarious means just for the test then fall off again.
Good job i did it this afternoon as i found the only bit of serious rust on the whole chassis lurking behind one of them, 20 minutes wit the welder had the rot removed and a plate welded in so its all good now. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-e.../IMG_00387.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K.../IMG_00388.jpg There is some pitting in places (See Below) but by the time it has been galvanised, eposy primed then epoxy top coated i reckon the surface finish should be ok https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P.../IMG_00389.jpg And a last shot before it gets loaded on the trailer, next time you see it it should be lovely and silver grey.... https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-W.../IMG_00390.jpg Oh just before i go heres a question, i am new to triumphs so please forgive my ignorance but i was under the impression that one of the spitfire foibles was that they had no chassis no? if thats correct then whats this? https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m.../IMG_00386.jpg picture is of the number with some paint blown on, i later polished it off and took some pics of the number fully legible should Mr Vosa want to see them as by the time it comes back there is no way it will be readable. |
The US market Triumphs did not have chassis numbers stamped on the chassis itself, but all others did...
Baz from Brussels |
Cheers for that, anyone care to decipher what the FC prefix means?
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FC just denominates the type, FC being Spitfire 4 or Spitfire Mk II
Baz from Brussels edit: for completeness Heralds start with G Vitesses with HB or HC Spit Mk 3 FD Spit MK 4 & 1500 FH GT6 Mk I & II KC GT6 Mk III KE |
So what did happen to the German Front mould?
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Wish I knew as I'd gladly do a deal on it.
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Just need to find out who bought a G front and er, borrow it for a day or two. I rather liked it.
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I did find an auction for the moulds on ebay and inquired of the winning bidder, turns it it was err how can I put this.... Lets just say I think maybe the seller and buyer had quite a bit in common!
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If anyone out there has a German bonnet then sing out!
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Hi the mould got cut up as it was not great .We only sold two bonnets out of the 125 kits we sold.
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:-(
On a lighter note delivered my chassis to the galvanisers today, total weight of a clean unmolested MKIII spitfire chassis is 40KG!!! So light they have had to charge me the minimum of £97 inc VAT so no complaints from me on that score really. Should be ready Monday morning and is booked into the paint shop Monday evening so will be done and ready for collection Wednesday. |
Shame about the mould as the shape was good, even if the mould was not.
Interesting that you are going to paint the galvanised chassis. Here in the marine trade we have always had problems bonding to freshly galvanised steel, and usually allow it to weather first. We mainly use Bradite EU96 as a barrier primer to the zinc, and thats usually just for decorative coatings as galv steel will last 30+ years in the marine environment anyway. What do you plan to coat your chassis with 9 |
Cant remember the brand but its an epoxy etch primer, amongst its specific properties is the ability to etch/bond well to galv, have used it in the past and it seems to stay where its put! It will also get a further coat of epoxy topcoat and a dose of waxoyl so i fully expect it to outlast judegement day :-)
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and i agree its a shame about the German mould, only chance now is that one of the 2 that were sold surfaces either for sale or for laon to take a mould from.
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Sounds like things are going to move ahead quite quickly on the chassis front. :cool:
Also I now understand your plan for the re-body inspection too. :icon_wink: Good luck, Paul. :) |
It is possible to do a beetle headlight conversion to your standard Cordite, or Sammio , Pilot or whatever the new names are. When i was working with Gary i had to cut and fit beetle headlights as a one of. Almost early Corvette style afterwards.
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Any pics? Although tbh it wasn't just the lights but the grill area I liked as well
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Sorry no pics. The bonnet mould was poorly made and then left out in the sun so went out of shape.
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How about a Microplas Mistral bonnet? Might need massaging in some areas but ih has similarities to the G Front.
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To be honest I think it's going to be the first of the new improved bodies so to start with I'm going to go standard as I think Andy will be photographing it whilst in the workshop, once built I can always goose around with the bonnet later. Can't understand for the life of me why the German front end was so unpopular.
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Can't understand it either, especially as it was symmetrical! Maybe the name did not help. Maybe 'Porche Front' or Merc front would have inspired.
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Hi guys. I'm afraid the German mould was so badly warped when I went to Poole to collect the set there was only one sensible decision. It had to go. There was no way it could be retrieved, and having had absolutely no customer interest in it since the 'Lancia' style was released, I told Gary to destroy it. I think it had been stored on its edge and gravity did the rest. We will be looking at alternative bonnet shapes and it's possible that if enough people really do like that shape it may be the inspiration for one of them.
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Well chassis is back from the galvanisers, a day late but a good job, it's in the booth tonight to thoroughly dry out and then will get a wire Brush over it tomorrow to remove any loos tags and then paint so should be back to me for a marathon tap and die session by Thursday.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O.../IMG_00414.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3.../IMG_00415.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E.../IMG_00416.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1.../IMG_00417.jpg |
That is as good as it gets! Stunning foundation to your build Mac.
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Yep, looks great. Wish I'd thought of having mine galvanised now. :(
How much was it if you don't mind me asking? |
Little more than I expected but still not too bad at £180 inc vat. But it will outlast me now!
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I think it will outlast everyone!
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That sounds pretty 'king cheap for a chassis that's pretty much rust proof forever.
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So chassis was wire brushed all o re to remove a few loose tags and the brake line tabs were all removed as ill be using stainless rubber lined p c
Ips. Chassis then received 3 coats of epoxy etch followed by 2 coats of chassis black. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T.../IMG_00418.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j.../IMG_00419.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-V.../IMG_00420.jpg https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B.../IMG_00422.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U.../IMG_00421.jpg |
Now a nice coat of silver over the top??
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Now that would just be ott...........
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