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-   Miglia Builds and discussion (http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=21)
-   -   Deni's Miglia Build (http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6320)

lancelot link 6th July 2017 07:43

DENI ...I have been trawling through photo's trying to find you some examples , but with the recent photobucket issues and Tinypic not responding this morning , I am struggling a bit ....
If you google image search ''S*mmio Spyder frames'' you can type the 'a' instead of the asterix , I'm not allowed !! ... You will find some good images ..the red oxide frame on the white bulkheaded car is a decent example , we ended up farming some framework out and it resulted in varying quality , but the early ones were the better ones , in my opinion , thats a fairly early one ....also , if you google image search ''S*mmio Chevaux frames'' , they show triangulation quite well ...again no door pockets which will always be easier to make strong ...

This is how the Formosa 120 GR frames are being done , this might help you with the door allowance , note that there are 2 bars running horizontally under the door step and they are tied together with triangulated sections ...this may be the best example for you to draw inspiration from....

http://i66.tinypic.com/2efn68j.jpg


http://i68.tinypic.com/73j5o5.jpg

I'd definitely put some side bracing , webbing or triangulation on the steering column mounts too ...2 little stubs like that unbraced , isn't very strong ...if the steering column was or needed to be wrenched sideways left or right for any reason , theres not much stopping those from leaning over and/or coming off ... look at the way the Formosa one is done in that picture above ...you could easily add a couple of bits to do something similar ...

If you did a 25mm box version of that , kind of , then you will have a much nicer frame ..

Oxford 13/60's S*mmio build thread is worth a look too ..his frame is rather nice ...

What you will notice on all these examples is that there is quite a lot going on compared to your current frame ......

deni 6th July 2017 10:31

Gary - thank you for the advice. Farmosa frame looks soooooo much better designed and much stronger. I will definitely take your advice and add the bracing where you've suggested.

Cheers, Deni.

lancelot link 6th July 2017 20:18

GLAD TO HEAR IT ...These cars are worth putting the effort into ..nicely finished examples have been making strong money recently ...and regardless of whether your intention is profit or pleasure , everyone likes to know their investment is safe or appreciating ...

deni 7th July 2017 11:52

Gary - I agree. It is worth it to try and make the frame as safe as possible.

Cheers, Deni.

lancelot link 7th July 2017 17:51

I'm not sure what hinges you intend to use on the car , it was originally designed to use early Mini external hinges in , uncannily , the same way the Cordite did ...but if you fancied trying to go internal , hidden hinged ...I can sell the ones I use on the Formosa ...£5 a pair including postage ...just a thought ...as you were !!


http://i63.tinypic.com/1z5t9pf.jpg

Paul L 9th July 2017 08:58

Deni – Good luck with learning to weld.

I used a MIG welder for the first time on my build and practised on some spare box section first.

I found making changes to my box section frame easier to do than working with thin metal on my bulkhead repairs.

In the end, my ’Frankenstein Hillbilly’ internal structure had a lot of home welding in it.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x...o/DSCF4542.JPG

Good luck, Paul. :)

deni 13th July 2017 14:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by lancelot link (Post 89325)
I'm not sure what hinges you intend to use on the car , it was originally designed to use early Mini external hinges in , uncannily , the same way the Cordite did ...but if you fancied trying to go internal , hidden hinged ...I can sell the ones I use on the Formosa ...£5 a pair including postage ...just a thought ...as you were !!


http://i63.tinypic.com/1z5t9pf.jpg

Gary - Thank you for the offer, your hinges look great. I have already bought mini hinges for the door but, and I hope this is not a silly question, can they be use to mount the bonnet? If they can, I would gladly buy them.

Cheers,
D

deni 13th July 2017 14:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul L (Post 89366)
Deni – Good luck with learning to weld.

I used a MIG welder for the first time on my build and practised on some spare box section first.

I found making changes to my box section frame easier to do than working with thin metal on my bulkhead repairs.

In the end, my ’Frankenstein Hillbilly’ internal structure had a lot of home welding in it.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x...o/DSCF4542.JPG

Good luck, Paul. :)


Thank you Paul. Yes I remember reading your thread when you tried MIG welding for the first time. I will try with the stick welder first, and if I struggle I will source or buy an MIG welder and give it a go.

Cheers,
D

deni 14th July 2017 00:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mister Towed (Post 89295)
Hi Deni, yes, if you attach two different types of metal directly together one of them will corrode very quickly through galvanic corrosion.

That is a process where environmental moisture - rainwater, condensation, humidity etc., - acts as an electrolyte which conducts the electrical potential between the two different metals, effectively forming a crude battery. This rapidly causes one of the metals - whichever is least noble (resistant to corrosion) - to rapidly dissolve at the point of contact.

Whenever you connect different metals together you need to seal the join with a purpose made anti-corrosive jointing compound or you will get accelerated corrosion. I've listed one below but I haven't tried it and others are available.

The speed of this reaction is quite alarming, a good example being demonstrated in the U.S. show 'Mythbusters', who managed to dissolve a set of prison bars to the point of failure in about two weeks using Mexican Salsa as the electolyte.

Anyway, good luck with your build.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

http://www.mbfg.co.uk/bonding-struct...s/duralac.html

https://mythresults.com/episode26

Mister Towed - just saw your reply (somehow I missed it on a previous page) and it is very helpful as usual, so thank you. A while ago I was fixing something and I attached a thin plate of aluminium on top of a stainless steel piece using silicone as a glue. The aluminium plate reacted and pitted (oxidized) so badly across the whole surface and I had to remove it.

deni 14th July 2017 00:37

However, the fact is that many of you guys have used aluminium sheeting (and stainless steel) riveted and bonded to a (painted) frame, and it seems that nobody think that this is an issue ....or did I miss something?

Cheers, D

lancelot link 14th July 2017 17:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by deni (Post 89457)
However, the fact is that many of you guys have used aluminium sheeting (and stainless steel) riveted and bonded to a (painted) frame, and it seems that nobody think that this is an issue ....or did I miss something?

Cheers, D

I've done that several times and am currently doing my Formosa build for Graham in a similar fashion ...it will take a very long time to corrode seriously ...no worse than using all steel or various other materials , in my opinion ...

Those hinges will work for a bonnet yes ...They will lift it up and away from the car with plenty of clearance .....The MX5 bonnet hinges are a nice hinge for that job on your Miglia too ...nice and simple ...There must be someone on the Tribute section not using theirs ? ..pm me if you need some of mine ... ......

Paul L 14th July 2017 20:40

Deni - If it makes you feel any better, I just copied what I saw other people doing. :rolleyes:

So I have alloy extensions to my steel inter rear wheel arches.

But I do feel a bit better after reading Gary's reply. :cool:

Good luck, Paul. :)

PS
Mr T was also a novice welder who went for arc, rather than mig, so you should be OK.

deni 18th July 2017 12:33

Gary - thank you for the comment regarding different metals. I will PM you as I really like your hinges and your offer is more than ok...:high5:

Paul - thank you for the encouragement. I am still working on the front part of the car and then I will try to tackle welding and the frame reinforcement.

Cheers, D.

deni 18th July 2017 12:51

5 Attachment(s)
Hi all,

Done a bit more on the car. Mainly cleaned and painted the front suspension bits and the calipers.

Attachment 4497


Attachment 4498


Attachment 4499


Attachment 4500



I have painted the front hubs for now but I think I will replace the front discs as they are quite coroded.

Attachment 4501

deni 18th July 2017 13:02

4 Attachment(s)
Attachment 4502


Attachment 4503


Attachment 4504


So, the next job will be to clean and paint the front parts of the chassis where there are some surface corrosion spots. I will also try to clean and paint any part I can access as I have no intention of removing the engine. Also, the rocker cover and the manifold/exhaust will need a bit of scrub...

Attachment 4505

Till next time.

Cheers, D

deni 15th October 2017 12:45

Hi,

Just a quick update and let you all know that I did not give up the build, just did not have time to work on car... Anyway, the schedule will improve in next couple of weeks and I will be able to continue to work on the car (hopefully more regularly). I have managed to finish cleaning and painting the bits around the engine and cleaned and painted parts of the engine and the rocker cover. I will post the pictures in a couple of days.

So, the chassis and the sub-frame are painted and ready.

Next jobs to do (before the body goes on) are:

- replace the anti-roll bar with the thicker one
- install the petrol tank
- fabricate / install bulkhead
- install the pedals and the cylinders
- install the steering column
- wiring

Till next time.

Cheers, D.

Paul L 17th October 2017 05:24

Deni – Quite a few builds run into unexpected delays, so you are not alone.

I have always been surprized by what can be achieved by just chipping away.

As any small progress is certainly better than no progress.

Good luck, Paul. :)

deni 17th October 2017 10:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul L (Post 91233)
Deni – Quite a few builds run into unexpected delays, so you are not alone.

I have always been surprized by what can be achieved by just chipping away.

As any small progress is certainly better than no progress.

Good luck, Paul. :)

Hi Paul,

Thank you for the advice and yes, I agree. I will try to work more regularly on the car even though this proves to be a quite challenge sometimes. The car is not stored where I live and it is not always quick to get there if I have a couple of hours of time, especially with heavy traffic, but fingers crossed this will improve!

Cheers,D.

deni 17th October 2017 10:45

A few photos below as promised. All the parts work fine and are in good condition. I had the engine running a while ago and it was running and sounding very smooth.
I have removed the surface rust and cleaned the parts, applied Kurust and painted the manifold, upper exhaust pipes, the rocker cover and other bits. The engine paint is very good, except around the exhaust pipes, so I have painted that as well. When the MOT time comes I will give the car a service and tune it if necessary. Also, if anything needs changing or fixing it will be done then as well.

Attachment 4672

Attachment 4673

Attachment 4674

Attachment 4675

Attachment 4676

deni 17th October 2017 10:48

Hmmmmmm......I'm not sure why the photos are not visible when I upload them as I did before....I have tried a few times now but without success. I will upload them anyway till I figure this one out.


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