New, longer studs were used.

Attachment 4320

All went well, but there is one thing I am not sure about so please, if anybody can advise it would be great. I have tightened the screws as tight as it was possible but I still have a small gap between the lowering block and the bottom plate (first two pictures below), even though the bottom leaf of the spring fits quite well in the gap of the lowering block (last photo).


Attachment 4321



Attachment 4322



Attachment 4323

Nice work. Just a thought, did you loctite the blanking studs in to stop them dropping into the diff casing?

The slight gap between the lowering block and bottom leaf could be to prevent the rest of the leaves in the stack from being clamped in place and allow them to move laterally. As far as I'm aware, the bottom leaf should be fixed to the diff and the rest should be able to slide from side to side -

http://www.canleyclassics.com/techni...swing-springs/

Anyway, keep up the good work.

Mister Towed - Thank you for your reply. I did not use Loctite, so thank you for pointing this out. I've only tightened them as much as I could with mole grips, but now you've mentioned this I think I should use Loctite, as the studs are not held with the nuts above the spring like before. So, next time I'm working on the car I will fix this.

Cheers,
D

Swing Spring
 

I have another question I hope someone can help me with please. I was reading in a Herald manual that the original spring has the front and the back side, and should be positioned accordingly. I've checked the old spring and I saw the markings. However, I could not see such markings on swing spring. Does a swing spring has front or back side, i.e. the side of the spring that should point towards the engine?

Cheers,
D

Deni - Not sure if the Herald set up is the 100% the same as the Spitfire (although they are obviously very similar).

But there was a hole in my lowering block that needed to be enlarged slightly for the rear spring to locate properly.

More details in this post:
http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...&postcount=530

Finally, although I did fit a lowering block initially, I eventually removed it as the rear of the car was too low. :rolleyes:

Hope that helps and good luck, Paul. :)

Hi Paul,

Thank you for a quick reply. I think I will remove the spring and do it again, but this time using some Loctite (I have noticed that there are quite a few Loctite variations, with different numbers on the bottles, presumably representing a different strength?) and checking the centre hole too.

Btw, how do you make your pictures visible at all times, without logging in? (I upload my pictures directly via this forum page).

Cheers,
D

Deni - I host my photos on an external website (like Photobucket) and then post the links to the photos.

When you attach a photo load on this site, the code appears like this in the post.
( I've added some spaces so that the photo itself doesn't appear. )

[ attach ] 4320 [ / attach ]

However, if I open the photo itself up in a separate tab, I get this link...

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...0&d=1492376892

To turn the link into a photo, you need to add some code to the front and back of it.
( Again, I've added spaces so the photo will not appear. )

[ i m g ] http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...0&d=1492376892 [ / i m g ]

Then if you remove the spaces you get this.

http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...0&d=1492376892

Now I am not 100% sure if the photo above is visible without logging in.

There may also be a quicker way of doing this, but I've not actually tried to load photos on here. :rolleyes:

Hope that helps, Paul. :)

PS
if you 'Quote' this post, you will be able to see the photo code in action.

Thank you Paul, I thought it must be because you are using a host website to upload the photos. I will try to use the Photobucket website next time.

Cheers,
D

Good luck Deni - will be interesting to see how you get on.

I am back on my build, the engine saga continues - it never ceases to amaze me how real life keeps blocking me. So I am now trying the "one day a weekend is my time" routine - I will see if that works.

Anybody going to Stoneleigh at end of April?

Hi Marc,

Yes, I was wondering what happened with your build. Glad to hear you are back on it and I hope it all goes well.
I agree - "often and little" someone once said, and I will try to stick to it too.
Good luck with your build and I will keep checking your thread.

Cheers,
D

Yes, I am still plugging away. Sadly, I have forgotten how to post pictures so I need to try and understand that process again.

But real life is a bitch - I envy those who have retired and can devote serious time to their cars. I get pulled from pillar to post on all manner of domestic matters - kids, house, family illness. And don't talk to me about where the money goes...

But I am still going, and still fermenting plans

Work Continues
 

Hi everyone,

I had (finally) a couple of days to work on the car. I could not spend much time working on the car lately, but hopefully, I will have some more time in coming weeks. Didn't do much but I'm a bit further nevertheless. Here are some photos.

Gear box housing cleaned and painted.


Attachment 4474

Attachment 4475

Attachment 4476

Attachment 4477

Frame in primer and painted.

Attachment 4478

Attachment 4479

Trial fit of the frame.

Attachment 4480

Attachment 4481

Attachment 4482

Overall, the existing attachment points on the frame are perfectly aligned but I have noticed that the frame is not quite complete, which is a bit disappointing.
Two attachment points that should mount on the rear part of the chassis (just behind the spring) and the pedals mounting plate at the front of the frame are missing.
Also, the bar on the back bottom (lateral) that should link left and right back sides of the frame is missing - this is maybe left out in the case the frame doesn't align properly, so it is easier to make the adjustments...anyway, I need to fabricate the prop shaft tunnel and the gear box cover, so I guess it is time to learn how to weld. Actually I am looking forward to learn how to weld. A while ago I've bought an arc welder, so we shall see...


I have a few questions please:

There are two small attachment points there on the front of the frame, where the dashboard will be - I guess they are for the steering column?

Two attachments on the top back corners of the frame (just behind the seats) - are they for the seat belts or something else?

The petrol tank area is on the back of the car - I know that many of you have placed your petrol tank at this position but is it safe to put it there and would it be safer to mount it behind the seats?

The fiberglass floor panels - is it necessary to put anything in between the chassis and the floor panels, like some kind of rubber (possibly neoprene), or another kind of a sealant like silicone or a Tiger seal, or is it enough just to bolt them to the chassis?


When I bought the chassis, there was a piece of a double sided sticky tape of some kind (green stripe on the photo below). The green bit could be peeled of exposing a sticky, soft, rubbery kind of tape. Is this something that can be used in between the chassis and the floor panels maybe?


Attachment 4483

While I practice welding and think about the frame modification, I will continue with cleaning and painting the front suspension parts and some engine parts, like rocker cover.



Attachment 4484





Attachment 4485



Thank you all for the support so far and I am looking forward to receive some further advice.

Cheers, Deni

Yup and they should be the right distance apart for the U bolt that mounts the Triumph column to the old tub. "should" being used based on experience here! I had to cut and re-weld mine, others used Garage Adjustment Device No.1 i.e. a big hammer!

yup.

There has been some discussion about this over the years with the various Sammio / Ribble / Migilia designs and i think the thinking the last time i remember was that it's as safe as any motorbike!

A nice thick bead of Tiger Seal all along the contact points does the trick, adds some sealant between the gaps (not that you'll drive it much in the rain) and also adds some strength.

someone has gone a bit Blue Peter and used some double sided sticky tape with one of the sides still covered to add some padding. That'll work and stop rubbing, but if it's not the proper external stuff like they use to put number plates on with, i'd worry how long it would last and, for us, if it would trap moisture!


I hope that's some help?
Dave

davecymry - thank you for your quick reply, much appreciated. Very helpful and clarifies a few things for me. I had to laugh about your Blue Peter comment. I think will use Tiger Seal too, it makes sense.
I have read your thread and your Miglia turned out great. I really like the use of aluminium and the riveting inside the cockpit. I am thinking to go the same route (hope you won't mind if I do) but don't know for sure yet. Someone mentioned that attaching a different type of metals to each other can cause corrosion/oxidation?
Did you use 3mm aluminium for the side panels? What kind of metal sheeting you have used for the bulkhead and how thick it is please?

Cheers,Deni.

P.S. I like your heater box fabrication. ;-)

If you are going to be doing some welding on your frame , may I suggest adding a bit of bracing for strength and rigidity in places ? ...The S*mmio frames had a slight flex on the rear when off the chassis , but the central tub area ( where you sit ! ) was far more robust than the Miglia version ...I never felt their frames were strong or complete enough ... The S*mmio version's have triangulation as well , which is very important ...I know Miglia's have been built and used with frames just as they are ..but if yours is incomplete and requires work ..you have the opportunity to improve it before it is clad ... just my opinion , obviously its not my car ...

lancelot link - thanks for your reply. I would be happy if you would offer any advice on where to place the bracing in order to strengthen the frame. By the way, I am happy with any other advice too really, as this is all very new to me.

Cheers, Deni

Hi Deni, yes, if you attach two different types of metal directly together one of them will corrode very quickly through galvanic corrosion.

That is a process where environmental moisture - rainwater, condensation, humidity etc., - acts as an electrolyte which conducts the electrical potential between the two different metals, effectively forming a crude battery. This rapidly causes one of the metals - whichever is least noble (resistant to corrosion) - to rapidly dissolve at the point of contact.

Whenever you connect different metals together you need to seal the join with a purpose made anti-corrosive jointing compound or you will get accelerated corrosion. I've listed one below but I haven't tried it and others are available.

The speed of this reaction is quite alarming, a good example being demonstrated in the U.S. show 'Mythbusters', who managed to dissolve a set of prison bars to the point of failure in about two weeks using Mexican Salsa as the electolyte.

Anyway, good luck with your build.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

http://www.mbfg.co.uk/bonding-struct...s/duralac.html

https://mythresults.com/episode26