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EL PRIMER 30th April 2014 10:13


Originally Posted by 1iTim (Post 54864)

sadly I broke a rear trunnion bush jamming it on with no lube


Also , am I the only one who chuckles everytime someone mentions the Rimmer Bros. !!

oxford1360 30th April 2014 10:54


Originally Posted by EL PRIMER (Post 54865)

Also , am I the only one who chuckles everytime someone mentions the Rimmer Bros. !!

No, you're not. I bet they had fun at school.

1iTim 30th April 2014 11:20

private school boys hey you two?

1iTim 30th April 2014 11:35
front corner underway.

MartinClan 30th April 2014 16:09


Originally Posted by 1iTim (Post 54864)
Its been a while (hols in NZ, easter etc etc) but i have the swing spring and disc kit and am industriously putting things together. can't upload pics at work though :(

sadly I broke a rear trunnion bush jamming it on with no lube, lesson learned for the fronts, and antiseize liberally on the bolts that go in there this time. when the replacement turns up i will get the rear axles back on the car, and my freelander studs will be here soon (thanks auskellian) and that will mean the rears can be completed!

the secondhand front hubs from rimmer required a bit of cleaning up thats for sure, but they are ready for their bearings now. I used bearing housing loctite 641 (or 642 i cant remember) which worked a treat on the rears- probly use on the fronts too.

I'm not going to worry about ride height until i get the frame on and weigh the body and sandbag simulate it, then sort out the size of rear lowering block i need.

I am worried about the stiffness of that rear spring - anyone with knowledge/experience there?

I built a Triumph based Marlin Roadster many years ago. Donor was a Spitfire. Using a brand new spring I had to remove one of the leaves to get the ride correct. If you leave all of the leaves in and just use a spacer block to adjust the height I guess that the ride will be a bit on the hard side...


davecymru 2nd May 2014 07:57

I, as well as a few others who did their builds at the same time as me went for a 1" lowering block AND Swing Spring conversion and we generally found that gave a very good ride height with a not too bumpy ride.

But i'll admit that it wasn't the cheapest of solutions!! :)

Mister Towed 2nd May 2014 15:10

I've kept the swing axles as they came out of the factory. I've been through a few different setups, but I've now settled (excuse the pun) on removal of the top three loose leaves from the stack, plus one leaf out of the next stack down (the one that's clamped to the main spring with 'U' clamps and bolts underneath), with no lowering blocks fitted at all. That's given me the right ride height for my tyres and a very compliant ride. The handling is also spot on with no discernible roll, while you can drive it much faster than when it had hard suspension because the tyres stay in contact with the road instead of jumping off all the time.

1iTim 5th May 2014 06:54

thanks Martin, Dave, Mr T.

Martin when you took a leaf out of the swing spring stack what did that do to the "hat" that the 4 studs bolt through - removing a leaf will reduce the thickness of the stack and does that leave too much "slack" in the stack? with the herald stack removal of leaves was easy, but not sure about the swing setup - if i did i am thinking of the middle leaf (third from top and bottom). do you have a photo?

Mr T i have already bought the swing spring kit so i'm going to use it!! when you removed a leaf that was u-bolted on, what did you then do with the u-bolt - shim it or sleeve it or leave it?

Dave did you need longer studs with a +1" block?

I also have no backplate for my front spit3 disks - problems? i dont really want to pay 45GBP for each back plate from my friends who bring primer and oxford such amusement.

thanks again guys.

Mister Towed 5th May 2014 09:04


Originally Posted by 1iTim (Post 55067)
thanks Martin, Dave, Mr T.

...when you removed a leaf that was u-bolted on, what did you then do with the u-bolt - shim it or sleeve it or leave it?

Hi Tim, I used the leaf that has the 'U' clamps riveted to it so that they act as guides to keep the rest of the stack lined up, but I didn't bother putting any bolts back in underneath, as I'd had to cut them off due to corrosion. Hasn't affected the handling so it'll probably stay that way.

As for getting the right length securing bolts for the spring stack you end up with, below is copied from my build thread dated 16th November 2011 (page 7) -

A while back I asked if anyone knew what thread type the rear spring to differential mounting bolts were. I got a couple of different answers Gary J said 3/8" UNF while a couple of others said 3/8" UNC, so I identified a 3/8 UNF bolt removed from my chassis and it didn't fit. By a prociss of elimination I ordered enough 3/8 UNC threaded rod to make new studs for my extra lowered lowering block.

When the UNC rod arrived it didn't fit. I tried a new UNF bolt and it fitted. Checked the supposedly UNF bolt from my chassis that I'd used as a gauge and found that someone had used a UNC where it should've been UNF.

I can confirm, therefore, that the studs/bolts for the rear diff are 3/8" UNF.

No harm done, though, I'll be using the spare UNC rod in my handbrake mechanism.

Good luck getting the stance/ride/handling how you want them. :icon_cool:

davecymru 5th May 2014 12:41

If memory serves me right, i got longer bolts with the lowering block

1iTim 5th May 2014 12:55

Thanks gents. Here's a pic of my rear, prior to tying down the spring

EL PRIMER 5th May 2014 17:36


Originally Posted by 1iTim (Post 55087)
Thanks gents. Here's a pic of my rear


swifty 5th May 2014 20:42

Nice work 1iTim, i hope to be at that stage pretty soon, the finned drum will look cool on the car.:cool:

1iTim 7th May 2014 02:20


Originally Posted by EL PRIMER (Post 55108)

hey E-P when you are old enough to drive you should get one of these cars...

1iTim 14th May 2014 10:08

I have the wheelstuds, heres why they look like on the back:

And now with the rear on:

These were freelander studs, but caution they are 13mm at base not the imperial size, but they do go on.

EL PRIMER 14th May 2014 21:52


Originally Posted by 1iTim (Post 55187)
hey E-P when you are old enough to drive you should get one of these cars...

I might just do that ........ :-)

1iTim 15th May 2014 12:26

My lathe...

oxford1360 15th May 2014 15:57

We buy from the same tool shop. That is how I did my lugs. It worked just fine and was quicker than I'd anticipated.

davecymru 15th May 2014 16:51

That reminds me... i need a new drive belt for my lathe!! :)

1iTim 22nd May 2014 00:58

time for a question; the disc brake conversion stub axles are about 1/4 inch longer than the old ones which means the greas caps dont engage with the hub due to not clearing the axle and nut. does anyone know of hub grease caps that have the same base as the herald/spit caps but a higher 'dome'?

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