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micky1mo 31st October 2017 19:40

Sammio workshop projects
As the forum is a little quite I though I'd list a few workshop projects I'v been working on.

The last build was a all aluminium transported body fitted to a twin turbo, 165HP, VW truck.

I built it for a local guy with the promise I could use it when I wanted. :icon_mrgreen:

Been sorting this beastie out as well.

It's a 1942 "K" series Austin cab with custom rear tub (tipper) sat on a Land Rover Discovery chassis utilizing the 2.5 turbo diesel engine and 4 wheel drive system.
It's nearly ready for the MOT just a few "issues" to sort out.

Finally a project I been working on for some time.

It's much like GJ's "long nose" project.
The idea was first conceived a few years back by Chris at Tribute Automotive. It's a Tribute Automotive A352 "D" type body, stretched to fit Scimitar SE5 chassis.
Over time it's evolved into rebuilt and referbished SE5A chassis fitted with a Jaguar XK40 3.2lt engine, 5 speed Getag 265 gearbox, Spax adjustable coil-over shocks all around, 4 pot vented disc's brakes up front with full disc brake conversion on the rear.

This really has been a labour-of-love with many problems but when finished it really should drive, handle and stop as well as it will looks and of course it will be finished in BRG. :roll:

Speaking of BRG in true "Blue Peter" fashion here one I finished earlier .

redratbike 1st November 2017 11:06

You've been a busy boy...

Paul L 1st November 2017 18:01

I do like that green and black truck. :cool:
( Especially the mating of old body to newer chassis. )

Now dust off #34 and let some kit car journalists take it for a spin.

Good luck, Paul. :)

molleur 1st November 2017 18:45

I'm loving that truck too!

micky1mo 27th November 2017 18:39

I'v spent a lot of time over the past few weeks working in this Jag project.
Fitting the bonnet left me with a large gap to fill about 12"

I though I would be clever and got Chris at Tribute Automotive to make a small bonnet end section which I was going to bond to the existing bonnet but unfortunately the "D" type bonnet is not flat at any point and this wouldn't work.:redface:
The only solution was to build it up from scratch.:nerd: .

Firstly I cut off the original shutting edge of the bonnet and using a few fiberglass finger strips between the bonnet edge and the shutting edge joined then both together bridging the gap.

These were then fiberglassed on the underside to give them some strength and support.

Then some stainless steel mesh bonded in place to help form the new section.

The hollow area was then built up with fiberglass matting so reducing the amount of filler needed and reducing the chance of cracking.

Them a light skim of heavy duty glass filler.

The bonnet now flows nicely from the edge with no flat spots and I'm sure the painter will be able to make it disappear completely when he works his magic.:roll:

micky1mo 28th November 2017 20:48

The front wings was a lot easier
Another mould was taken of the front section which was then trimmed and bonded onto the edge of the existing section , you can see the new mould beside the car .

New section fitted and roughly lined with the bonnet.

molleur 28th November 2017 22:15

Lots of work there, looking good!

Paul L 30th November 2017 15:45

Micky1Mo - Your approach to extending the bonnet looks much quicker/easier/neater than when I tried to do something similar. :rolleyes:

I am sure all the extension work will disappear when the car is in paint. :cool:

Good luck, Paul. :)

micky1mo 30th November 2017 18:18

Spent some to on the suspension and fitted a set of TR4 wheels.

It now rides at the about the right height and I think it looks the dogs do-da's. :thumb:

molleur 30th November 2017 18:28

Like the wheels!
Good job on the body too.

micky1mo 1st December 2017 18:30

As this is going to look like a racing car and be quite a quick car it might end up in a few hill climes or time trials so I want to fit good brakes.
It has 4 pot callipers and vented disc's on the front and disc on the rear so a duel line servo assisted set up was needed.

Front callipers and vented discs

Rear calipers

After much trial-and-error I cut out the original SE5 body work with the pedal assembly and fitted a complete SE6 pedal assembly. :peace:

I couldn't use any of the original bulkhead as it meant the assembly sat too high and fouled the bonnet.
I ended up bolting it to brackets welded to the cage frame so can be removed for repair/serving ,

Now, not only does it clear the steering column it also fits nicely under the bonnet. :flame:

lancelot link 1st December 2017 19:48

COMING ON ...Definitely the season for long noses ....

I see you have removed the front anti-roll bar ? We used to do it a lot on the Hot Rod builds using Cortina front clips etc. because it just stuck out the front and was ugly didn't seem to make much difference on them anyway wasn't an issue ...Can I ask why yours has gone / is it a clearance issue on the D type bonnet or something else ?

micky1mo 2nd December 2017 09:26


Originally Posted by lancelot link (Post 92246)
I see you have removed the front anti-roll bar ? We used to do it a lot on the Hot Rod builds using Cortina front clips etc. because it just stuck out the front and was ugly didn't seem to make much difference on them anyway wasn't an issue ...Can I ask why yours has gone / is it a clearance issue on the D type bonnet or something else ?

The anti-roll bar is still fitted, if you look closely at the top picture you can just see the drop link (more photos to follow).
My main experience of ARB's is with 2CV based 3 wheelers.
I'v find they do make a considerable and noticeable difference on cornering and at speed, probably because of the 2CV suspension set up.:nerd:
There are many after market ARB available to fit the 2CV but funny enough I found the SE5 ARB the most effected one.

lancelot link 2nd December 2017 19:40

DOH !! Yes I can see it now ....sorry was a looong day yesterday ...

micky1mo 3rd December 2017 19:11

The Jaguar engine is a EFi unit and as I have no ECU, fuel injection system or wiring harness my cheapest option is to go for a carb conversion running a plug-and-points ignition.

This engine uses a distributor but only to distribute the spark to each plug, ie; the distributor has no internals only a rotor arm.

I found a standard Triumph 6 cylinder distributor which has the same shaft dimensions. Actually both were LUCAS units and the shafts were identical but the Jaguar unit looked different because it had a bigger head.
I removed the drive from the Jaguar unit and machined it to fit the Triumph unit.

Once I'd changed the mounting/locking plate the new distributor fitted nicely into position and turns freely about 30% so timing adjustment shouldn't be an issue .

Ignition advance and retard will be done via a vacuum feed.

It time I will replace/convert this with a ACUSPARK electronic unit but for now it will do it's job and generate it's own spark 6 times per 2 revolutions of the engine as required. :amen:

The think the fuel delivery system will be a little more complicated to sort out!!!!

micky1mo 10th December 2017 11:41

I now need to look at the fuel delivery system.

I have a few choices.

Make a manifold and fit these BMW 3lt coupe carbs.

Make a manifold and fit this pair Yamaha XS750 carbs.

Or modify the existing manifold and fit this Weber carb off a Essex 3lt V6.

The first two options will involve a great deal of expense. I think for the cost of having a manifold made I could buy a AC/DC welder and made the manifold myself. :smile:

I have always been a bit of a redneck so for now I'll use what I have and try and fit the Weber carb to the original manifold.
In theory I'll just block off the injection ports, remove the throttle body and replace it with as adaptor plate to which the Weber carb will be mounted. :banplease:

micky1mo 20th January 2018 16:48

Redneck solution No 1.
I started with a standard XJ40 injection manifold welded up the injection ports, removed the throttle body, fabricated a mount for a Weber 38DGAS 3lt carb so suit the existing manifold and bolted it in place.

It's a bit crude but should work. :loco:

As a back-up I have also cut-up another XJ40 manifold.

The pair of XS750 bike carbs where joined together using a little aluminium light angle across the top of carb 3 and carb 4 plus a strip of 30x3 flat bar tack welded to the original carb support bracket. To my surprise this assembly weighs in at over 5kgs!!

I spaced them so carb 2 and carb 4 would line-up with port 2 and port 4.

I will now order the tube and will complete the manifold at a later date.:eusa_whistle:

micky1mo 8th March 2018 19:52

On of the big issues of this build has been the dash.
I have a very shallow space, no room for column switches and a reinforcing steel bar straight through the middle of the area. :eusa_wall:

I liked the the original simple "D" type style of dash with the large rev counter and a pair of clocks. But, after a few days of trial and error I ended up with the full house.

The lights, horn, indicators and hazards are all on the left hand side of the set-up.
The large hole to the left of the steering wheel is for a GPS style speedo as I do not have any speedo-drive from the gearbox.

I was surprised to fined the dash clocks ect was easy to read through the steering wheel.

All-in-all I very pleased with the results.:rofl:

oxford1360 9th March 2018 08:01

That's rather nice, and you have every reason to be pleased.

DaveP 9th March 2018 08:20

I agree - that wrap around dash is very pleasing.


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