|
Whilst I've barely touched the kit since it arrived, I am still taking small steps forward...
Spitfire Inspection Update: My build plan did not include my donor spending 5 weeks in the garage for a "check up". :ohwell: However, despite taking much longer than expected, ay least it is now finally back home. The rolling chassis has been checked to MOT standard & thankfully confirmed as safe. The engine needed work to get it to pass an emissions test, but that's all sorted now too. By checking all this stuff now, I hope to avoid any real problems later on (Touch wood). Unfortunately, just when everything was going so well, the radiator gave up the ghost. :icon_sad: The garage used some Radweld (sp?) to form a temporary patch for now, but I will replace it. I have been checking what Mister Towed did with his Honda radiator & may follow suit. Sammio Gathering: This is the second event I've missed this year (as I couldn't make Stoneleigh either). :icon_sad: It would be nice to meet some people from this forum in real life & learn about their builds. I'd also like to look around some finished Sammios, as I haven't seen one in person yet. Hopefully I will get the chance to make it to another Sammio get together in the future. Rear Lighting Layout: With my kit here, I could finally see just how much space there is available at the back. Effectively there is just over 101cm to play with, if you stay between the seam lines. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ph...=w1151-h863-no Again I did a 'Blue Peter' job & cut out circles from a cereal box to represent the lights. :rolleyes: My initial lighting choices were 75mm dia. stop/tail & indicator + 72mm reflectors each side. But they would have been too tightly packed together & the problems was actually the number plate. My donor came with a new number plate which included a GB "sticker" & was 52cm wide. A bit of research showed I could use a much smaller 6 character* plate which is just 41cm wide. * Completely by chance, my "V" reg. donor only has two numbers in its registration. So I''ll now order a smaller rear number plate & a stick on front plate while I am at it. ( For this build I will not be switching to an ageless plate, just to keep things simple ) I also decided to down side the lights at the same time to improve the layout still further. My new lighting sizes are 70mm dia. for stop/tail & indicators + 60mm for the reflectors. I will also fit four LED light bolts instead of a more traditional number plate light. http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/pub/files...nt_w85_h85.jpg http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/pub/files...nt_w85_h85.jpg http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/pub/files...15_w85_h85.jpg http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/m/m6iZ...7nCobg/140.jpg Front Lighting: Again, now the kit is here I can finally confirm that my donor Spitfire headlights will fit. :cool: The diameter of this rubber seal for the headlight unit is 8.5 inches in old money. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y0...8=w360-h270-no I just need to check my donor headlights work (weren't wired up) & then give then a clean. I need to order some chrome rims to finish them off, as they were missing from my donor. I have seen what looked like side repeaters being used for front indicators on some builds. The rules I checked said there was no minimum size, as long as they were clearly visible. So I ordered some 36mm diameter dome ones, which appear quite small in real life. Although there isn't much space available for something very much bigger. Any thoughts, or suggestions, are always welcome. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PE...Y=w640-h480-no Other Shopping: In addition to all the lighting above, I've now ordered some other stuff as well: - The bucket seats & bonnet stuff I've mentioned before - 2 wing mirrors (I went for the Sammio 'traditional' chrome bullet options in the end) - Dash mounted rear view mirror - Secure tax disc holder (designed for motorcycles) - Some extra ratchet tie down straps to hold the body in place during bonding ( My current straps are showing their age a bit, as they are now over 20 years old :rolleyes:) The main reason for ordering some of the finishing touches early is to check fitting. This will allow me to build up, or reinforce, any area that I am bolting things to (if required). Although I still need to work out how much fibreglass & bonding "stuff" I need to order. Ebay Update: More of my sold items have been collected which frees up some room for the new parts. I cancelled another sale after winning bidder couldn't make it over from Italy to collect. :icon_evil: On the bright side, a previous bidder came back for some more small bits. And another bidder is considering whether to buy my leather seat covers. Next Steps: I want to test all the new lights with the current switches & wiring to check for problems. I then need to methodically disconnect everything required to remove the body shell. I hope photos, labels & taking notes will allow me to reconnect everything later on. However, I have a lot of domestic chores to complete before I can do anything. My wife's brother & his family are coming over from Ireland next weekend. ( Hence no Sammio gathering for me this weekend ) Until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Front Indicators
Hi Paul
Looks like its all coming together nicely. Regarding Front indicators have you considered following the example of one of the earlier Sammio's by drilling through the back of the headlamp and fitting indicators inside the shell. I bought a set of lights same as Dave Cymru these are like a tin plate back and can be carefully drilled and the bulb fitted through the back. I had a chat with the local MOT tester and he said no problem regarding seperation distance of lights, as he pointed out the new Minis indicators are on the same unit now. Just a thought and the way I am going.. Cheers Pops |
Thinking up solutions to problems that don't exist yet is half the fun of Sammio ownership.
One thing you've picked up on that I knew I should have done but didn't is take loads of photos of connections, routing etc, to make it easier to put it all back together again months later. Keep up the good work and I'm looking forward to seeing your Cordite build coming together. :) |
Progress Report:
Not much progress this week as I've been tidying, cleaning & fixing things around the house. :rolleyes: But at least we are now ready for our visitors from Ireland & it will be good to see them later today. I'll be off to the kitchen shortly to start preparing Sunday lunch (a man's work is never done :icon_twisted:). Even with my wife's help we couldn't move the Cordite body through the house into the back garden. I was planning to store it there for a while so I could have more space to work on the donor. But there was just no way of manoeuvring it through our internal doors & we scraped the wall. :icon_sad: If I need to, I can go through my neighbour's garden as they have the side access we don't. Headlights: I did get a chance to test my donor headlights and the good news is that they still work. Note: The lights are just sitting on the ground, not fitted to a very narrow car. :icon_wink: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M6...=w1151-h863-no The bad news is I'd completely forgotten that they don't include a side/parking light. My Spitfire has a separate unit which combined side light with the front indicator. So rather that reuse these as originally planned, I will replace them with these instead. http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/...u/Slide3-1.jpg With the side light built in, it will keep the front of the car uncluttered. :cool: I will also order 2 chrome headlight rims from Rimmer Bros (missing from donor). Rimmer Bros will also be my source for the rear spring lowering block & long bolts. Other Odds & Ends: My donor came with just one ignition key, so I got a spare cut locally for £7.99. The shop was very good as they had to order a "blank" in for me. Can't imagine there is much demand for 30 year+ Triumph keys around here. All my other shopping has arrived in the post & I have lots of nice thing to play with. :cool: My neighbours have been very good at taking things in for me when I'm at work. All my sold Ebay parts have now been collected. I'm still waiting to hear if a previous Ebay buyer wants the new leather seat covers. However I am being messed about by the one person I sent something do. :icon_evil: All my sales were listed as 'cash on collection' and I should have stuck to that. Hopefully it will all get get sorted out next week (touch wood). So just small steps, but at least they are in the right direction. Hopefully there will be more to report next time, cheers, Paul. :) Replies: Pyscho Pops - Thanks for the tip, which is effectively my side light solution (see above). I actually like the idea of a separate indicator, even if it has turned out a bit small. Mister Towed - I'm trying to learn from other builds, so tips always welcome. I was planning to keep the heater if only to help in the event of the engine overheating. So I might get a Honda radiator & add an expansion tank (just need to research it more). |
Weather Update:
Apparently it is not my imagination, this will officially be the wettest summer in living memory. :icon_evil: Unfortunately I've seriously underestimated the impact of this rubbish weather on my Cordite build. Don't get me wrong, I always knew attempting to build outside was going to be a major challenge. But these days, it seems almost impossible to align my limited free time with any sort of dry weather. I can't relocate the project to a lock up garage as I promised to be 'just outside' for family reasons. Also my wife doesn't want a 'Circus Tent' outside the house after I showed her TriTone's photos. Although in fairness, this might still be possible for a very limited time at the end of the build. So for now, I'll just deal with the weather as best I can & try to keep the project moving forward. Thankfully Sunday gave me a glimmer of hope when time & weather finally worked in my favour. I managed a few hours in both the morning & late afternoon, so some small progress to report... Body Shell: Wasted some time trying various ways of jacking up & supporting the car for access underneath. Eventually came to the conclusion that doing this safely on a sloping drive requires more thought. So I put the car back on the ground and moved on to the electrics instead... I've now disconnected all the wiring from the back & middle of the car & pulled it to the front. Despite the apparent mess, this is one of the few areas I feel pretty confident about (touch wood). Also these wires will be thinned out before being refitted (see wiring loom section below). https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BI...E=w640-h480-no I then started on the dash board and have now removed the left & middle sections. In addition to labelling wires, I've also taken photos & made notes about what goes where. As I plan to reuse the Spitfire fuel & temp. gauges, main light switch & probably heater controls too. ( Luckily I did have an allen key in the extremely tiny size required to remove the heater buttons ) Took out the passenger side heater vent + hose and put that in the 'may come in handy later' pile. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7046.jpg Removed the gear lever surround from the gearbox tunnel & then started on the tunnel itself. Before Photo: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jC...w=w640-h480-no No problem with the self tapping screws, but I got stuck with the nuts & bolts through the bulkhead. As the rest of the family were out, I was missing the extra pair of hands needed to hold a spanner in place. It was about this time that the skies turned black & I had to start putting everything away again. At least I was able to start the engine & move the car around the drive before the rain came. Neighbours: ... everybody needs good neighbours ... In addition to weather delays, as soon as I start work outside, all my neighbours seem to arrive for a chat. Clearly Sammio building is not a common sight around here, so they all want to know what I am doing. I'd rather keep on everyone's good side for now, as I'm sure I will be making a bit of noise in the future. Internal Frame: Initially I wasn't planning to paint the frame until I'd test fitted it to the chassis. Given the experience of others, there are bound to be some minor adjustments required. However, as I'm storing it under a cover outside, this means it is rapidly starting to rust. :icon_sad: So 'Plan B' became clean off this surface rust & paint everything with smooth black Hammerite. It will not be the end of the world if I have to remove the paint in some areas & repaint if required. Thankfully this is something both my daughters are happy to help with (one missing from photo). Couldn't cover the frame while the paint was drying, so obviously it was raining in the morning. :ohwell: http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7036.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7035.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/h1...o=w640-h480-no QUESTION - Has anyone treated the inside of the framework (as I can see rust inside there too)? Wiring Loom Planning: - Thankfully something I can do indoors! I started by simply blowing up my Haynes manual wiring diagram to A3 size at work. I then highlighted the things I was replacing with new, or removing all together in the Cordite. E.g. New tail lights & indicators, but no reversing lights, courtesy lights, wind screen wipers, etc. This left me with a better idea of what wiring I actually needed and now it inter-connects. ( By chance part of this thought process was covered in another forum thread here. ) http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7041.jpg I'd like to say this was part of my thinking ahead approach, but it followed my own stupidity. :rolleyes: I wanted to test my new lights with my old switches / wiring before I removed the body shell. At this point I found all the bulbs from my new rear lights were missing (supplier error, bulbs now sent). Then I couldn't get the LED number plate lights to work despite using the correctly labelled wires. :icon_question: This was another day when rain stopped play, so I came inside for a proper look at the wiring diagram. It became clear that they originally connected to the light switch via the Spitfire rear light cluster. As I'd removed this (and not fitted my new alternatives) no wonder the lights wouldn't work! :frusty: At this point I abandoned comprehensive testing & hope simply connecting things properly will be enough. :wink: Although I did just wire the LED's up and connect them directly to the battery as a simple test. I put them facing the back of the number plate to see how much was lit up and frankly they are rubbish. I'll reserve final judgement for now until they are wired up with the engine running. (Excuse the poor photo) http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7042.jpg Also I was able to use a domestic 9 volt battery to test the bulbs were working in my new lights. And I did wire up two brand new car horns that came with my donor & they are working fine. Although it might take me a while to get the hang of a steering column mounted horn button. Shopping Update: My new headlights & all the various bits I needed from Rimmer Bros have arrived (see previous post). Which brings the total I've spent to date on new parts for my Cordite build to just over £600. The good news is that I think this covers the bulk of what I need for my planned spartan finish. Although I'm still considering replacing/upgrading my radiator rather than risk the RadWeld repair. Note: I will provide a detailed breakdown of everything I have bought at the end of the build. However, I still have a lot of shopping to do in order to finish the actual construction of the car. I need to establish the quantities of marine ply, fibre glass, bonding paste, filler, etc. required. I couldn't believe the size of one of Mister Towed's bonding blobs when he did his body. :shock: But, as always, he supplied a good explanation of what he was doing and it all made sense. Until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Wow, impressed by the methodical approach, it will never catch on! Mind you, given that my donor was already stripped down before I bought it, I'm having to go for the usual 'hit and hope approach! Just started on the loom, interesting when you never saw it fitted!
|
Good luck with your loom, I planned the same approach with mine - strip out the redundant circuits and add in colour coded new ones as required. That hasn't actually happened though as a previous owner had already taken an axe to the loom and removed and added random wires all over the place. I've managed to get everything working now but it ain't pretty...
|
Looking good!
I wasn't intending on doing anything to my wiring loom, but the more i tried to get things working the more wonderful modifications i stumbled across from the last 43+ years the car has been on the road. I ended up completley dismantling, rewiring, repairing and the reassembling my loom and having seen some of the amazing "twist the wires together and prey" mods that had been done on it over the years, i'm damn glad i did! |
Amazing what you can get done when the rain holds off for a few hours...
Framework Update: Apparently when I left the frame outside for the paint to dry it was hit by more than just rain... http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7048.jpg Hopefully this "offering" from above is a sign of good luck for my build. :wink: Body Shell - Part 1: I've finally reached the point of new return in the process of dismantling my donor. I can't remove the body shell without disconnecting all the things that are currently working fine. So I fired up the engine & drove the car inside my drive for the last time as a Spitfire (or sorts). My girls wanted "a lift", so after one took this photo, they both climbed on board. :cool: As I don't need to restore anything, I will try to get everything reconnected & working again ASAP. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M5...Q=w640-h480-no Reading about WorldClassAccident's fire reminded me to start by disconnecting the battery! Although creating a similar space for the battery in the Cordite bulkhead is still on the "to do" list. ( I've already got a few ideas after seeing how DonnySoutherner built a box for his. ) http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7055.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vv...Y=w640-h480-no My eldest daughter provided the extra hand I needed to hold a spanner on one side of the bulkhead. This allowed me to work on the other side to remove the bolts holding the gearbox tunnel in place. There is a small crack in the cover (near brace in photo), but that shouldn't be too hard to fix. I am currently planning to reuse the Spitfire gearbox cover with the Cordite bulkhead if it fits. Note: "After" photo was taken just as I finished for the day as I forgot to do it at the time. :rolleyes: http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7049.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7069.jpg Removing the steering wheel was easy as I'd already discovered the retaining nut was missing. ( A new replacement nut from Rimmer Bros. has already been ordered & delivered ) However, my donor did come with a 14" Moto-Lita three spoke wooden steering wheel. :cool: So I guess the previous owner started the job of swapping them over, but didn't finish it. Thankfully all the wires around the steering column are in self contained connecting blocks. This allowed me to remove the main switch unit intact, will remove wiper switch later. This gave me better access to remove the final section of the dash board. I will reuse speedo & rev.counter, so once again I was taking notes & photos + attaching labels. Removed choke cable after disconnecting it from the carbs. & indicator warning light was easy too. I've got slightly stuck on the hazard warning light as I can't see what keeps it in the dash. ( I'll have another look at the manual at some point as it can stay in the dash for now ) I disconnected the heater controls, but couldn't see how to get the driver's side vent out. Although as I look closely at the size of the heater, I need to confirm I'm going to use one. ( My initial thought was it would be handy for slow moving traffic if the engine over heated ) http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7057.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XL...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7f...s=w640-h480-no I then switched to the engine bay to remove the rest of the wiring loom. Again, more photos and notes, but this was actually pretty straight forward. Although I do keep finding random wires not connected to anything. :icon_evil: So I have marked them as such and will double check against the wiring diagram later. Eventually I was able to pull the whole loom out and that is a scary sight... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zw...=w1151-h863-no At this point I did a bit of "tidying up" as I want to get a good price for the body shell. This black underlay / sound proofing stuff was all over the cabin floor & very messy. One corner had a, still wet, paint stripping 'blob' underneath it which was a pain to get off. I want to ensure any buyer can see the metal work is very sound all round. Although I've found a few rough areas which were simply covered by interior trim. :mmph: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/y_...s=w640-h480-no Next Steps: With a bit of luck I'll get a few more hours on the car tomorrow too. At some point I need to pick up some wheel ramps from a mate which might help. I'm actually pleased with how quickly I've got to this stage in actual hours worked. Unfortunately the weather has stretched those few hours across many weeks. :ohwell: Still, progress is progress, so until next time, cheers, Paul. :) Replies: DonnySoutherner - My methodical approach is driven by a deep rooted fear of messing it all up! Which is why I owe you some beer Simon for blazing a trail for me to follow with your own build thread. Mister Towed & DaveCymru - There are signs of "home improvements" in my wiring too. :icon_evil: So I will remove all the wrapping and have a proper look at everything when I thin the loom out. |
A tummy bug struck half my family down today. :icon_sad:
So all car plans for the day went out of the window as they come first. But I did manage to crab a couple of hours in the early evening... Body Shell - Part 2: I removed my rear twin tail pipes which was pretty straight forward. A couple of bolts in the boot held the bracket below in place. I will give them a bit more of a clean before refitting, but they still look good. :cool: I left the rest of the exhaust in place & used low tech string as a temporary support. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SW...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Db...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7E...o=w640-h480-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z4...o=w360-h270-no The rear suspension radius arms* are bolted to the body shell via detachable brackets. Thankfully I'd seen a photo of how DonnySoutherner had reused these on his Cordite frame. So I knew I had to remove & keep all these parts and not leave anything with the body shell. Nice to see that the bushes have all been renewed by the previous owner, one less thing to do. I've simply reattached the brackets & taped the shims in place so I don't lose anything. * Credit to Haynes manual for correct technical term, as I have no idea what I am talking about! :rolleyes: http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7082.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7015.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ls...U=w360-h270-no http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7081.jpg I just had time to remove both the clutch and brake pedals. Simply remove split pin from end of pedal and then 8 bolts from the bulk head. No need to label them as they already have "C" & B" stamped in them. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e_...k=w360-h270-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cu...c=w360-h270-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NI...I=w640-h480-no Next Steps: Continue with the body shell and remove the following: - Gas pedal - Petrol tank - Hand brake - Steering column I think that will leave me with just the retaining bolts to remove. I will also get in contact with my 4 potential buyers and see if they are still interested. As it would be good to get the shell sold and out of the way as soon as possible. Take care, Paul. :) PS Found out the hazard warning light switch simply unscrews to allow removal from dash. :cool: |
Managed a few hours after work on Tuesday...
Body Shell - Part 3: I needed to remove the throttle cable before I could remove the pedal. This was a simple "push and unhook the cable" job, a bit like on a bicycle. Then there were just two bolts in the bulkhead to remove and that was it. Note: This pedal does not have a rubber cover on it as standard. ( Which explains why I was not able to find anyone selling one! :rolleyes: ) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/E1...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ny...s=w640-h480-no Then it was time to remove the petrol tank, starting with 2 clips on the filler hose. Again, I hadn't realised the petrol cap was a simple "push on" design. It pretty much came away in my hands as I started to look at what was holding it in. There was two more clips on a hose connecting the fuel hard line pipes. Then 5 bolts to undo and a bit of wiggling about and out she popped. I assume there should be a breather hose given the molten mess held on by a clip. :mmph: Either way, I put caps on the pipe ends and sealed everything up for now. I need a bigger jerry can to decant the remaining petrol out of the tank. ( I have no idea how long its been in there, so I'll refill with fresh petrol later on ) Not sure yet whether I can re-route and reuse the existing hard line for the Cordite. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BZ...s=w640-h480-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rY...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/62...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9O...=w1151-h863-no The heater was next (and I'll be starting a separate thread on whether to keep it). Two pipes from the engine block needed to be disconnected, held by jubilee clips. I opted for another low tech solution to seal one end, cling film & a rubber band. There were 4 bolts in the bulkhead to remove and that was that. I guessing the foam "seals" are not a standard Triumph part. :wink: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zI...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iF...=w1151-h863-no Removed the main part of the steering column held in by 3 sets of brackets. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Tv...8=w640-h480-no Next Steps: - Remove the rest of the steering column - Block the wheels & then remove the hand brake - Undo all the bolts and see if the body will lift off! :shock: Cheers, Paul. :) PS My next post will be photos of the body shell for potential buyers. |
What makes you think the heater seals aren't OEM parts?
|
They look like the rarer Boxter replacement seals to me!
:bolt: |
On the heater, was the central hole chewed to correct shape!
|
Gentlemen - I know British Leyland's quality control was bad, but surely not this bad!
:icon_twisted: |
I am sending a link to this post to my potential body shell buyers.
So it is purely for their benefit and my normal build diary will return shortly. Body Shell For Sale On the whole, the body shell is very solid with a number of new panels in place. The previous owner supplied invoices for floors, wings, etc. & these can be viewed. Below are the problem areas that I am aware of (also highlighted in the photos): - There is a slit in the body work behind the driver's door frame. - There are several small cracks in the bulkhead where the gearbox cover attaches. - The passenger side rear panel picked up two scratches at my local garage. ( They were only supposed to be working on the engine & rolling chassis! ) - There are also areas with flaking paint, excessive carpet glue residue, etc. Items that will be staying with the bodyshell: - Working windscreen wiper mechanism, but no wipers. - New screen washer system. - Driver's side heater vent nossle (can't remove without dismantling wiper mech.). - Rubber seals for bonnet, doors & bood lid. - Black trim strips at rear of body shell. Items in photos, but due to be removed & therefore not part of sale: - Master cylinders for brake & clutch. - Lower steering column & surrounding bulkhead location plate. - Hand brake lever. Please Note: I have removed the VIN plate as I need to attach it to my new fibreglass body. However, it is available for inspection & to confirm it matches my V5C document. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Py...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zr...=w1151-h863-no http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7156.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fm...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3x...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ur...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ft...o=w360-h270-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4F...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XK...4=w360-h270-no http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7152.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7158.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7160.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7168.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wz...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ej...=w1151-h863-no http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7161.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7162.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7166.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7167.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7149.jpg |
This run of dry weather has been just what I needed to keep this project moving forward...
Body Shell - Part 4: I used an assortment of bricks to 'chock' all four wheels in place before removing the hand brake. I've also made a note of size, shape & location of the mounting bracket before removing the lever. As I haven't got as far as working out how to refit either this, or an alternative, hand brake yet. I did remember to release the hand brake before disconnecting one "C" clip & one split pin. I've left the cable in place for now until the body shell is removed. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/m7...A=w640-h480-no http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7176.jpg I just had the lower part of the steering column and the bulk head locating cover left. The cover had an extra brace to support the bulk head. I also needed to remind myself of the angle of the "flat" section of the column. I could only get access to the very bottom of the column, so I removed it from there. But before I did, I took measurements to ensure I knew where to cut the Cordite bulk head. You will notice a recurring theme of my fear of not being able to put things back together. :rolleyes: http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7178.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hw...=w1151-h863-no http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7181.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ka...o=w640-h480-no Then it was finally time to remove the 12 bolts that held the body shell in place. :shock: These were located as follows: - 2 in the engine bay in front of the bulk head - 2 in the front foot wells just the other side of the bulk head - 2 x 2 on either side of the main cockpit area - 2 holding the seat beat brackets in place (already removed earlier on) - 2 in the rear cockpit http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7177.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7187.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7186.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7189.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/px...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5g...8=w270-h360-no I gave the body shell a gentle lift and everything is clear and ready to take away. Which means the final part of the 'destruction' phase of my Cordite build is complete. :cool: Due to my complete lack of storage I will leave it where it is until sold. EDIT: I actually forgot about removing a final bolt under the body shell. This held part of the hand brake mechanism in place. Please see my next post for details. I'd started a thread about the pros & cons of fitting a heater here. I feel better about the idea of not having one now as it makes things much easier. So I have simply reconnected one of the existing heater hoses across in a loop. I followed the better to need to cut more off than need to add some back on approach. :wink: I noticed the heater value was full of "stuff" which I hope isn't anywhere else in the system. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LD...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cf...k=w647-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wy...E=w360-h270-no Next Steps: - Hopefully get the body shell sold ASAP. - Work out what needs to be done to fit the rear spring lowering block. ( Based on DonnySoutherner experience this is done before fitting the frame. ) - Give the chassis a good clean (it was stored in a barn) & touch up its paint. - Then I can start to think about fitting the internal frame work. But there are a few family events to do before that. So until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Good progress Paul, won't be long before your Cordite starts to take shape. Best of luck selling your bodyshell. :)
|
Looking like good progress there Donny. Be sure to disconnect the handshake compensator from the underside of the shell too. How do I know? ......
|
Numbered..... measured..... I'm not sure you "get" this whole Sammio thing yet matey? Plus there's been hardly any talk of hitting things with a big hammer, most odd!
;) |
Mr T - Thanks for all your encouragement. :)
Quote:
Andy - Thanks for the top tip, although is "Donny" the Northern equivalent of "Mate". :wink: Which leads me to... Body Shell - Part 4 and a bit: :rolleyes: Yes, clearly I had not done everything required to remove the body shell last time. And to make matters worse, the final thing to remove was obviously the hardest to reach. It was time to jack the car up again and take my chances with a sloping drive & axle stands. :shock: Thankfully just needed to flatten a locating collar and undo one bolt and that was it. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HM...o=w360-h270-no DaveCymru - It gets worse than just some masking tape on bolts... Obviously there is a note book and sandwich bags involved too! :wink: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PA...U=w360-h270-no However, if it makes you feel better, I have these standing by for the frame fitting... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g0...=w1151-h863-no :icon_twisted: Cheers, Paul. :) |
Holding Pattern:
This has been a week for the family, rather than Cordite building and that is OK. We managed to get tickets for Olympic badminton & tennis on Mon. & Tues. :cool: So just a couple of build related things to report... Body Shell: 2 of my 4 potential buyers have bought other body shells due to my rain delays. :icon_sad: But one has offered to contact someone else on my behalf which was nice of him. I will not be able to list it on Ebay until after our family holiday which is a further delay. And I need the body shell out of the way before I can really start the build. Engine Cooling Solutions: I picked up some good tips on my 'Car Heater - Pros & Cons' thread here. So I will probably connect my heater hoses to a Renault Megane type header tank. I had also been thinking about using an alternative Honda radiator like Mister Towed. But I have since found a Spitfire 'performance' radiator which is a straight swap. However, I can't finalise these choices until I understand how the bonnet fits. I know Spyder builders need to lower their radiators, but I don't know about Cordites. So I needed to do a quick test fit... Bonnet Hinges: My wife helped me get the bonnet from the garden, through the house, to the drive. One of my optional extras was to have bonnet hinges fabricated and bonded in place. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WM...U=w640-h480-no But I have just come across my first real Sammio building "challenge". - The hinges are set around 74cm apart - The outsides of the front chassis rails are approx. 76cm apart - The insides of these rails are approx. 63cm apart So my initial thoughts on how this is supposed to bolt on doesn't seem to work. These front rails must be close to the grill for the wheels to fit in the bonnet's arches. But if the passenger side hinge is close to the rail, the driver's side hits the rail. Not easy to see in the following photos... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qO...E=w640-h480-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LV...I=w640-h480-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4u...A=w640-h480-no The only good news is that I checked before ordering a new radiator. Does any one have any ideas, or better still, some photos with measurements? Next Steps: We have a family holiday coming up which will obviously take priority. Then I hope to find some blocks of time to really kick start the build process. Cheers, Paul. :) |
To me it looks like you need to get the rebody inspection out of the way without the bonnet fitted, then cut the front bumper hangers off, fabricate some bonnet brackets and weld them to the front of the chassis where the bumper hangers were.
|
Mr T - Cheers, I knew bits "fell off" the Herald after inspection.
But I wasn't aware that things might need to fall off the Spitfire too. May be I was misreading this post (I've added the red highlight)... Quote:
I know Gary & Andy are busy, so I'm trying not to hassle them if I can avoid it. Cheers, Paul. :) |
Hi Paul, Not too busy to do what I can to help...
Although, like you, I haven't any photos of this part of the Cordite and have yet to get to the bonnet hinges on the Demonstrator, It so happens that I have what appears to be the remains of the chassis that was used under Gary's demo that was at Stoneleigh. I've taken a couple of photos to show what he did for hinging and hope this helps (both of us). As you can see, it looks like the original brackets do come off and new hinge points welded to the front crossmember. (Full marks Mr T :biggrin: ) http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...a/P8060150.jpg http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...a/P8060151.jpg |
Ahh, yes. That's pretty much how I'd pictured it using my 'fitters eye'. ;)
It's worth mentioning that it's important to get the DVLA rebody inspection done before cutting the bits off the front cross-member to avoid the dreaded IVA though. :eusa_naughty: It's nice to see a cordite progressing and don't forget that you're paving the way so it's up to you how you do things. That's one of the nice things about building a Sammio - nobody can say "that's wrong" (Micha et al excepted of course) because there is no right and wrong, just how you think your car should be. :bounce: |
Andy - Thanks for that photo, you are a star. :cool:
I really thought I was being very thick not being able to work it out. :rolleyes: So the project plan must have body inspection before bonnet fitting. I don't suppose you know if the radiator needs to be lowered? For now I will put the final decision about engine cooling on hold. Mr T - So bits of Spitfire fall off after all. :wink: I fully agree with the sharing of all building experience for the greater good. I know there are many on here who can work it out for themselves. But I hope to show that even a ham fisted amateur like me can build one of these. ( With quite a bit of help from this forum ) Thanks, Paul. :) |
tip on the radiator front: if the one from the spitfire fouls the bonnet and can't be moved to a position to avoid that, you can always swap it for one from a GT6: because of the longer 6 cyl engine, the radiator is narrower and drops down between the chassis rails to give more clearance!
Baz from Brussels |
This is just another post to highlight my remaining parts for sale to potential buyers.
Leather Seat Covers - Brand new, never been fitted, RRP @ Rimmer Bros. = £630. Unfortunately the photos do not do these covers justice, they are first class. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/95...=w1151-h863-no http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF6811.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF6809.jpg Wiper Switch - Was working fine before I removed it. But I did notice the circular clip at the back of the lever was missing. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nU...=w1151-h863-no Door Sill Covers - Etched with Triumph & Spitfire logos, brand new, still with protective film on. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Wo...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yc...=w1151-h863-no Heater and various associated parts - Appeared to be working before I removed it. Previous owner fitted their own hand made / chewed foam seal. Note: One dash board nossle has been left with the body shell. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TD...w=w360-h270-no http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7253.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7255.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g9...o=w360-h270-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vq...0=w360-h270-no Rear Lights & Spare Lenses - Original assembly, but new lenses & gaskets fitted. Whilst there are bulbs in all the lights, I wasn't able to test them all due to unfinished wiring. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF6876.jpg Seat Rails - Look like original items which have been given a lick of paint. This paint is already bubbling in places, so probably needs to be re-done / touched up. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF6805.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF6887.jpg Sealed headlights - 2 x original units, with main & low beam working on both. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M6...=w1151-h863-no Steering Wheel - Original item. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6w...Y=w360-h270-no Dash Board - The previous owner said this was a hand made "one off" to original dimensions. All the dials and switches fitted fine before I removed them. Includes fog light switch, plus hand brake & seat belt warning light covers. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ev...w=w360-h270-no http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7250.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7018.jpg Various pieces of plastic trim. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7256.jpg My normal Cordite building thread continues on the post below this... |
Basic Project Plan:
The photo Andyp57 posted above has provided a clear sequence of events for Cordite Construction. The re-body inspection must be completed at a much earlier stage than I originally expected. I will be able to do some basic alignment work with the bonnet when the body is being fitted. But the bonnet itself can not be fitted until after the inspection due to extra chassis brackets. I have been building a "To Do" list on a spreadsheet (high tech pen & paper :wink:) since I started. But since I've seen that photo I've tried to convert all my thoughts into a proper project plan (of sorts). I still have lots of questions & unknowns, plus I need to buy construction materials as well. But before I knew it, my workload to re-body inspection list had stretched to 5 pages of A4!! :shock: Given the unreliable weather, this isn't a traditional project plan with any dates in it. :rolleyes: I can't even allocate expected man hours to each task as I have no idea how long some things will take. So far, some jobs have been miles easier than I expected, but I've also tripped up on "simple" jobs. However, I get to learn from DonnySoutherner & I'm sure Andy's own build will be super quick. So if I can follow their lead & keep working through my own list, I should get my Cordite on the road. Selling my remaining Spitfire parts: You can see the post above is more photos and descriptions of what I have left to sell. This allows me to provide an easy link for potential buyers to look at. If they don't want them, I will put them on Ebay when I get back from our family holiday. Although I'd offer a good price as a job lot with the body shell for a quick sale of that. "Inspire a generation" Whilst this phrase is from the Olympics and about sport, it reminds me of a favourite quote. Again, not strictly about Sammio building, but I think is counters some recent forum posts... "It is not the critic who counts: not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up short again and again, because there is no effort without error or shortcoming, but who knows the great enthusiasms, the great devotions, who spends himself for a worthy cause; who, at best, knows, in the end, the triumph of high achievement, and who, at the worst, if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly, so that is place shall never be with those cold and timid souls who knew neither victory nor defeat." All my original ideas about how long this project would take have gone out the window. Not so much in hours taken, as it hasn't taken many hours to get this far. But more the availability of my time and it lining up with dry weather. Hence it has taken me months to spend a few days (in total) on the car. However, I remain inspired by the "can do" attitude of the majority of this forum. And I look forward to driving my Cordite with a gold medal winning sense of pride. :cool: Until next time, cheers, Paul. :) Replies: Alpha - Thanks Baz, that is another good option to bear in mind. |
Quick Catch Up:
Nothing much to report as I've been away on a holiday with my family near Thetford Forest. I did pack my wiring loom & a few tools into the back of the car along with the rest of our luggage. :icon_twisted: But we had so much to do while away that I didn't get a chance to open the box,let alone work on it. It also looks like I will need to put my body shell on Ebay after all, which will cause further delays. However, I now fully accept that I need a far more philosophical approach to my project plan. I bought a decent donor to avoid the need for a nut & bolt restoration of the rolling chassis. But as I said last time, my "To Do" list is already 5 pages of A4 just to get as far as the re-body inspection! So I will simply keep chipping away at the workload whenever I get the chance & see what happens. Hopefully I will have some more progress and photos to post next time. Until then, take care, Paul. :) PS Just taken some photos to post a message on Andy's Cordite Demonstrator thread. I am sure all the work he does before the September show will be a big help to me. :cool: |
The key thing is not to lose heart. I've been chipping away at little jobs on mine now for over a year and it still isn't finished. I never actually wrote a 'to do' list, just went out each day I had some time and got on with something I felt like tackling. Although I'm really looking forward to having the finished car to drive whenever I want, I think I'm going to miss the challenge of actually building the thing. For me, this project has been more about exercising my creativity, dusting off old skills and learning new ones than ending up with a potentially valuable car. So, crack on with what you feel like doing when you feel like doing it and enjoy the journey! :becky:
Oh, and if you happen to visit Thetford Forest again do drop in for a cuppa - I'm less than twenty miles away, although this last couple of weeks I've been away myself in Menorca :) |
Ebay Update:
My Spitfire body shell is finally on Ebay with the auction due to end on Tuesday, 28th August. I'll then give the buyer first choice on the last few parts I have before they go on Ebay too. My my main concern is to get the body shell out of the way so I can get at the rolling chassis. Wiring Loom - Part 1 I want to be able to restart my engine ASAP, so I'm keen to sort out the wiring early in the build. The decision to build my Cordite without a heater makes more of the original loom redundant. So I updated my wiring diagram & adding a dotted line to ensure a connect remained in place. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/py...c=w640-h480-no I laid the loom out in the dining room and started to cross check it back to the diagram. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tC...U=w480-h640-no This allowed me to add extra labels where some wires were not connected in my donor. I was also able to trace the two "random" unattached wires to the oil warning light! :shock: The previous owner has fitted some sort of pressure gauge in the engine bay. So I need to do a bit of research to see if he removed all the original connections. Then it was simply a case of carefully cutting and unwrapping the tape around the wires. Then working my way slowly around the loom removing everything I didn't need. I only made two mistakes (I blame the thunder, lightening & torrential rain outside :rolleyes: ). But the are an easy fix to correct and will be reconnected in Part 2 (see below). Based on this photo, it doesn't look like I have much to show for many hours work... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tN...U=w480-h640-no So maybe this is a better way of highlighting what I managed to remove... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hJ...Q=w480-h640-no There is still a lot of work to do with the loom, but that can wait until "Part 2". I need to fit connections to my new lights & the loom to ensure everything will join up. But first I'll run the loom in the car to check which wires need shortening / lengthening. Earthing to the frame instead of the original steel body locations will be part of that. When all that is sorted out I will then wrap up the wires to tidy it all up. Next Steps: If I get half a chance to do some more Hammerite painting outside tomorrow I'll take it. Until next time, take care, Paul. :) Replies: Mister Towed - Thanks & I'll take you up on the cuppa offer one day. This is why your build thread is a joy to follow as you just keep chipping away at it. I know it has taken a long time, but you'll soon be driving a Sammio Spyder. :cool: ( No pressure! :icon_twisted: ) |
Wiring Loom - Part 1 and a bit
Woke up in the middle of Saturday night as my mind was clearly still thinking about wiring. :rolleyes: It dawned on me that one of my "mistakes" from earlier that day was not wrong after all. I'd cut a wire convinced I didn't need it & only then did I notice one end heading into the bulk head loom. I was horrified to see the words "gear box" on the other end of the matching wire & panic set in. I thought I'd cut the over drive connection and stopped before I did any more damage. However, I should have actually marked the wires as "gearbox reversing light switch"! So I was doing the right thing all along and can remove some more wiring from the loom. But I'll pick that up along with all the other stuff I need to do in "Part 2". Stop! ... Hammerite Time! ... http://www.allinlondon.co.uk/images/...ammer_time.gif There were some bits of the internal framework that still needed to be painted & other bits touched up. Some dry weather on Sunday let me paint that & some of my other donor parts that will be re-used. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vg...w=w640-h480-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aX...=w1151-h863-no Parts of the frame look like they have been painted by a child and that's because they were! But I'd rather keep the runs and blobs and have a family painted frame than a beautiful finish. :cool: Mind you, even with a dodgy finish, things do look better with a fresh coat of paint. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YS...=w1151-h863-no https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nc...Y=w640-h480-no I'd put a second coat on this morning, but shortly afterwards the rain came (again!). So we have a large temporary garden ornament until I can move it all out of the way. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/IO...=w1151-h863-no Body Shell Update: Just over a day to go, no bids yet, but 34 watchers. I also had 2 messages about a "Buy it now price", but no offers there either. Hopefully this will be one of those sales that takes off in the last few minutes. I took quick rubbing of the petrol filler cap hole while it was still here. This is purely as a double check when it comes to drilling a hole in my Cordite body. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sh...=w1151-h863-no Cordite Bulk Head: As I was painting both the frame and the tops of my pedals I thought I'd compare them. - The brake pedal lines up with the six holes provided. - The clutch pedal needs six holes, only 5 are pre-drilled and they do not line up. - The gas pedal had two holes in the top of the Spitfire bulk head, but only one here. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ku...o=w640-h480-no Now I remembered that DonnySoutherner had some issues with his pedals. But a quick revisit to his build thread has just highlighted another "challenge". He posted this photo... http://i1264.photobucket.com/albums/...dcylinders.jpg And then Andy posted this message... Quote:
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7375.jpg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7376.jpg Insert rude word of your choice as I didn't think I needed to touch my brakes at all. ( As they have already "passed" the MOT inspection my local garage gave them. ) But in the wise words of Mister Towed... "The key thing is not to lose heart." There is not much I can do at the moment until the frame and body are in place. At that point I'll have a better idea of what my options might be. Perhaps I can simply fit a 'Wembley Scoop' to clear the master cylinder. :wink: Also looking at Simon's photo again, it is clear his gas pedal is mounted using one bolt on top. Plus there are another two bolts to go through the front of the fibreglass bulkhead. Until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Gas pedal only mounted by the two bulkhead bolts. One on top is the frame mounting bolt as fitted by Gary. A bit surplus to requirements really as there are 12 bolts going thru for pedals anyway.
My clutch mounting had a hole missing and didn't line up either. Some filing required. |
Thanks for the explanation Simon, saves me trying to bolt the gas pedal to the wrong hole!
Cheers, Paul. :) |
Spitfire Body Shell
I suffered a minor set back when my body shell didn't actually sell on Ebay last week. :icon_sad: I had messages from two people asking for a "Buy it now" price, who then didn't bother to bid at all. But after the auction ended, both turned up asking if they could make a lower offer instead. :frusty: Thankfully, I had another offer to buy it for more than the opening bid price, so a deal was done. But my winning bidder disappeared into the mist when asked to arrange collection & payment. :icon_evil: However, earlier this evening I shook hands with another buyer who has left a deposit & the body is sold! :cool: He can't collect it until next week, which is a bit of a pain, but I'll live with that to see the body finally gone. The is the key part of the turning this into a Cordite construction project, so it is all good in the end. Spitfire Graveyard Ironically, even before my body shell was sold, I had ordered a 2nd hand body shell part. :rolleyes: I love how AndyP57 has reused the original Spitfire hand brake mount on his Cordite demonstrator. http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/...a/FrameOn2.jpg It is a very simple solution to an area of the build that has caused a few problems on other Sammios. So I've ordered one myself, along with a radiator expansion bottle & some headlight surrounds. These last two items were missing from my donor and have been on my "To Do" list for a while. You may recall that I actually ordered brand new headlight rims from Rimmer Bros. a while back. However, I subsequently discovered I'd mixed up the part numbers & ordered inner rims in error. :mmph: But talking to Spitfire Graveyard made me realise I was mixing my headlight parts up completely. My confusion stemmed from the fact my donor always had a piece missing from around the headlights. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_K...=w1269-h863-no I'd then seen photos of finished Sammios with either chrome, or painted, rim around the headlights. http://i1107.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMG_0193.jpg http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...k/DSCF0289.jpg Initially I tried to order a outer rim based on a Rimmer Bros. diagram of the headlight assembly. If I'd done my research properly, I would have seen I already have this part attached to my lights. :rolleyes: What I was actually missing was the headlight cowl, which is no use as it looks like this on a 1500... http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ItemImages/Large/911102.jpg So what I needed was headlight cowls from earlier Spitfires (MkI - MkIII) which will do the job I want. I plan to follow Lancelot Link's example of painting these cowls to match the body work color. Top marks to Spitfire Graveyard for translating my ramblings into real parts & at a good price too. :cool: Reversing Lights Switch: I did have another look at my gearbox just to confirm the position of the reversing light switch. If I have got this right, then my middle of the night "revelation" was correct & my overdrive is safe. So I hope this is the Reversing Light Switch... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kq...M=w360-h270-no and this is part of the Overdrive electrics . https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0V...k=w360-h270-no So at least one more wire can be removed from the loom before it is refitted. Although there is a wire connecting both parts I need to double check before touching. Cheers, Paul. :) |
In the Scimitar there was a wire between the reverse switch and the overdrive switch. This prevented you switching on the overdrive when in reverse which would trash the gear box.
The Scimi actually had a three way switch so nothing could be on in 1st and 2nd. Overdrive could be switched on in 3rd and 4th and overdrive couldn't be engaged when reverse was switched on. |
If you have a Haynes manual you can check the colour coding of the cables against the wiring diagram. Assuming nobody's modified the loom since it was built... :icon_twisted:
I'm surprised you had so much trouble selling your shell though, it looked like new. Someone bit my arm off for my somewhat rusty Vitesse tub and I didn't even advertise it - as soon as I listed the first few Vitesse parts I started to get messages asking what other bits I'd got. Still, it's technically gone now so you'll be able to get on with your build. |
Looking good matey!
I like the tunnel solution as the only bit that was an unknown for me was how to join my gearbox cover to the tunnel i had made, so it may be worth having a play and fabricating a basic solution while you've still got everything apart as when the body is on you end up doing some superb contortions when 'fettling' the interior :) Coming into 'classic' cars for the first time in years i also found Spitfire Graveyard to be brilliant as they always made sure i had what i needed rather than what i asked for, explaining the what's and why-for's along the way! |
| All times are GMT +0. The time now is 19:30. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Copyright Madabout Kitcars 2022