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Unique numbers to match your unique car.
Personally I like them.:icon_mrgreen: |
Micky1Mo - Cheers. :cool:
I know I am still a long way from actually fitting these numbers, but they do help me think positively about the future. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - A bit late, but here is yesterday's report... Testing Times - Part 1: First job of the day was trimming off the excess material around the roundels, for two reasons: - This makes them easier to store "flat". - I could have a play with possible fitting locations on the bonnet... I did have another look at other Sammios and vintage racing cars to see where the bonnet number usually goes. Many are at the front, but I think this would take away from the yellow nose band I am planning around the grille opening. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j...o/DSCF4828.JPG Another alternative is right at the back, but this seems a bit too far away to me. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-q...o/DSCF4831.JPG So I'll probably opt for somewhere in the middle and maybe at an angle. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-u...o/DSCF4829.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...o/DSCF4830.JPG Note: Based on the above, I think the number needs to be "evened up" vertically compared to the bonnet bulge & kept "square" rather than set at an angle. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - After a little bit of fun, I then spent a long time getting increasingly frustrated with my wiring gremlins. :icon_sad: I had noticed the bonnet was shaking a little when the engine was running. So thought it might have something to do with why the side lights are no longer working. I removed the passenger headlight and tested the bulb on my old Mondeo battery and clearly the bulb is OK. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-O...o/DSCF4833.JPG Then I connected the old battery to the ends of the wires coming out of the headlight shell and again the bulb came on. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J...o/DSCF4848.JPG I then worked my way through the connections on the front wiring loom and found one loose wire. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...o/DSCF4834.JPG However, each time I fixed one loose connection, another one would appear and it seemed like my "fixes" were making things worse. :rant: So in a desperate attempt to isolate the problem I removed the headlight quick release connectors from both sides and temporarily replaced them with block connectors. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J...o/DSCF4842.JPG Yet the side lights would still not come on. :icon_evil: You may remember that I had gone to great lengths to test the lighting indoors before wrapping the front loom. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J...o/DSCF4292.JPG But clearly something has gone wrong in the last few days, as these side lights came on when I first started testing the lighting in situ. Next I unwrapped the joins where the wiring is split between the passenger and driver's sides and replaced them with connection blocks too. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f...o/DSCF4849.JPG When the side lights still refused to come on, I decided to walk away from the front wiring loom before I sank into despair. Note: I've now ordered a multimeter so that I can be a bit more scientific in my approach to trouble shooting this. Then I turned my attention to the rear loom, where the number plate light had now stopped working for some reason. I traced that to a blown bulb and as I had a spare, that was an easy fix and I've also ordered some spare bulbs. Wired in the new stop/tail light, so everything on the lighting board is working as it should. :cool: So this is rear lights, hazard lights and fog lights all on at the same time. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-E...o/DSCF4835.JPG Initially, I thought I'd mixed up the wiring for the stop/tail light, but it turns out it was just the viewing angle. When you look at the lights "square on" you can see the rear lights are the same intensity. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...o/DSCF4836.JPG Note: I know the brake lights are working, even if I don't have a switch that works as it should at the moment. Also in a slight OCD relapse, I then refitted the lens from my old stop/tail light & indicator to the new replacement bodies. ( So everything will now be a perfect match when finally fitted. :rolleyes: ) End of Part 1... |
Testing Times - Part 2:
After a bit of research it seems there is a "flash to pass" option for my headlight switch. The lever needs to move back towards the driver to operate, but the plastic column cover currently prevents this happening. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H...o/DSCF4837.JPG So the cover came off again and I tested the switch without it and the "flash" worked with the headlights switched off. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...o/DSCF4839.JPG So I simply "pushed" the whole lever assembly forward a tad and re-fixed it into position & put the cover back on. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L...DSCF4840.JPG11 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a...o/DSCF4841.JPG Thankfully it now works as it should, including when the headlights are on low beam, so another tick on the electrical testing. :cool: Next I had a look at the heater fan switch and quickly realised there was a problem. Although this is not a very clear "before" photo, you can see the two coils of wire are connected to the switch "base". https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d...o/DSCF4811.JPG But now the wires connecting these coils are both broken. :icon_sad: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...o/DSCF4843.JPG So I've removed this part of the switch completely. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b...o/DSCF4847.JPG I've also ordered a replacement that does not have this external coiled wires arrangement. Then I moved the old battery into the passenger floor pan and connected up the fan directly. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--...o/DSCF4844.JPG The good news is that the fan definitely blows air through the vents. I've no idea what the fan is meant to sound like, so I made another short video of it in action. https://youtu.be/vhYR8VaovJQ I guess I am more aware of the fan noise because the engine in not running. Unfortunately, my attempts to put this theory to the test failed, when I couldn't get the engine to start. :icon_sad: At which point, I decided to walk away from the Moon Rover and turn my attention to the body shell... - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - As I need to sort out the drainage for the boot lid before the body shell is bonded on. At one point I was going to fit a "Y" piece and have both boot lid drain holes exit through a single pipe. But now I think I will use two exit pipes and a straight(ish) exit route on either side. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-u...o/DSCF4851.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--...o/DSCF4852.JPG I just need to double check the space between the boot floor and the body shell before I drill a hole and fix this pipe in place. I might add some brackets, similar to the ones I used for the front wiring loom, to help keep the hose out of the way. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-q...o/DSCF4853.JPG - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - The only other thing I did today was play with my bonding paste "experiment". I ground down the excess paste, which still felt a bit "tacky" to me. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-w...o/DSCF4850.JPG Thankfully this left a "dry" solid surface below and these two pieces are seriously stuck together. :cool: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Whilst it is a pain to re-do electrical work I thought I'd finished, I know it has to be done. But I will be very happy when I get to the bottom of what is causes the side lights problem. Until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
I can't wait to see you get it into paint Paul
I think the yellow decals will look "period" with the car in its green and yellow livery. My thoughts on the roundel location is inspired by these connaughts which used white nose bands. Centre of the bonnet but at 45 degree http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/...psso2vnhjz.jpg http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/...pss4qgnmea.jpg |
Roadster - Cheers. :cool:
Whilst paint is still a long way off, the grey primer improved the car looks, so BRG should really transform it. Thanks for posting those photos, as I had forgotten about leaving room for the "stick on" front number plate. :rolleyes: I think the bulge will prevent me from putting the number in the centre, so perhaps something like this? ( Yellow tape representing the nose band, plus the stick on number plate and racing number. ) https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-R...o/DSCF4866.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9...o/DSCF4868.JPG Or the yellow band could be a bit thicker / deeper. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-D...o/DSCF4869.JPG Clearly there are various options, but I am not going to play with this for a while now, see below.. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Critical Path - Part 1: I have been trying to work out what are the jobs that have to be done before the body can be bonded on. So things like problems with the front wiring loom can wait, as the rear loom is working fine. Even the drain pipe exit for the boot lid rain channel can wait, after it dawned on me there is an easier way to do this. As there will be a gap to fill between the end of the boot floor and the rear of the body shell. So I can fit the black pipe into this "fill panel", rather than drill holes in the body shell itself. However, now would be a good time to add the brackets required to zip tie the hose out of the way. So I made another two of these. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...o/DSCF4855.JPG But before I fitted them, there was a bit of general tidying up to do on the body shell. There are a few points on the underside of the scuttle that "catch" the bulkhead below. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I...o/DSCF4856.JPG So I've now cleaned up all of the underside, in preparation for bonding it to the bulkhead. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I...o/DSCF4858.JPG Using fibreglass filler to fix the brackets in place was miles easier than using fibreglass matting. :cool: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-e...o/DSCF4862.JPG I also added some fibreglass filler to various other small holes that needed filling, plus behind the dash edge. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B...o/DSCF4863.JPG It is not easy to see in this photo, but this lip has rough fibreglass underneath/behind it. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-u...o/DSCF4860.JPG So I've added a layer of filler to form a "wedge" from the lip back to the scuttle. ( The line is where the Spitfire bulkhead starts. ) https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7...o/DSCF4865.JPG That way anyone, including me, who runs their fingers along the edge of the dash "overhang" will not pick up any splinters. When the filler was set, all the various areas were then sanded down. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-D...o/DSCF4870.JPG The next area I wanted to play with was the boot lid locks, which meant I needed the keys. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...o/DSCF4874.JPG Note: There is no point in marking the outside of the envelope, if you can't remember which box you put the envelope in. :rolleyes: Then I trimmed down the oversized bolts. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...o/DSCF4873.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-v...o/DSCF4876.JPG Note: The "daylight" you can see is because I moved the rubber seal when doing the filler work earlier. It was only when I removed the newly shortened bolts that I remembered the mounting plate was a mess. ( Following my numerous attempts to make the boot lid work. ) https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1...o/DSCF4882.JPG So there was another round of fibreglass filler work on both bottom corners. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1...o/DSCF4884.JPG End of Part 1... |
Critical Path - Part 2:
The top brackets just needed to be sanded down before getting a coat of etch primer. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...o/DSCF4885.JPG But I wanted to strengthen the bottom brackets, so cut small sections of metal out for both. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...o/DSCF4886.JPG Not my neatest bit of welding, but it will do the job and thankfully will not be seen. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N...o/DSCF4887.JPG Some more sanding later and these were in primer too. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/DSCF4890.JPG The final job of the day was to sand down the bottom mounting plates in the boot. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-z...o/DSCF4891.JPG Now I just need to used the brackets to mark up where to re-drill the bolt holes. Unfortunately, I seem to have run out of etch primer, so I'll get some more tomorrow. Then I can do the final preparations on the boot rain channel before starting to paint it. - The mounting plates & rain channel inside edges will be black and done now. - But the edges next to the body work will be BRG and they will be done later. Overall, some steady progress towards finishing the last few jobs on the body shell. So until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Body Shell Prep - Part 1:
Ended up adding a little bit of fibreglass filler around the welding I did yesterday. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...o/DSCF4884.JPG So once that was set and sanded down I could put some etch primer on. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...o/DSCF4886.JPG I painted the top brackets. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_...o/DSCF4885.JPG Used the bottom brackets to mark out where to drill holes for the fixing bolts. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/DSCF4887.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/DSCF4889.JPG Then spend ages tidying up both the underside and sunny side of the area around the boot opening. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-r...o/DSCF4888.JPG So I could get some etch primer on. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C...o/DSCF4890.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x...o/DSCF4892.JPG Added a layer of normal body filler to the "wedge" behind the dash board lip. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_...o/DSCF4894.JPG Sanding this down was a major pain, as I had to work underneath it to see what I was doing. But no matter where I was, the dust still rained, or should that be snowed, down on me. :icon_sad: At least I got a smooth finish eventually. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...o/DSCF4895.JPG Then that got a coat of etch primer too. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-T...o/DSCF4897.JPG Whilst the primer on the underside of the lower brackets hadn't cured long enough, I could paint the other side. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-C...o/DSCF4900.JPG End of Part 1... |
Body Shell Prep - Part 2:
I have put a lot of thought into how I can keep the back of the body shell "level" when I bond it into place. ( The front of the body shell "slots" over the Spitfire bulkhead, so that is less of an issue for me. ) Part of my problem is that the rear body shell itself doesn't have much in the way of genuinely horizontal surfaces on it. :rolleyes: I remembered that this caused a lot of beard scratching when I tried to work out where to fit the rear lighting. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R...o/DSCF4463.JPG However, the good news is that the holes for the rear lighting can now be used to provide me with a "straight line" to work with. So I whittled down the ends of four pieces of wood so they would fit into the rear light template. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8...o/DSCF4901.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...o/DSCF4902.JPG Then I marked their positions on another length of wood. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Z...o/DSCF4903.JPG Before fixing them into position like so. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o...o/DSCF4905.JPG The small lengths of wood slot into the rear lighting holes like so. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-W...o/DSCF4907.JPG Giving me a straight(ish) line to work with across the rear of the car. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...o/DSCF4904.JPG Then I double checked that my twin tail pipes were both the same distance from the boot floor. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N...o/DSCF4908.JPG After a small adjustment to one, they will now be my reference point for a "horizontal" level on the Moon Rover. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...o/DSCF4909.JPG Even though I am now waiting for the primer to fully set, I am at least another step closer to bonding the body shell into place. :cool: Until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Close, but no Cigar - Part 1:
I knew my recent run of time available for car work, combined with decent weather outside, was coming to an end. So I really wanted to have reached the stage of bonding the body shell to the framework by today, but it was not to be. :icon_sad: However, I actually decided yesterday, that I'd rather miss this target, than take short cuts to achieve it, especially with the boot lid. ( E.g. Any fine tuning of the locking brackets is much easier to do with the body shell off. ) This was the right decision to make for my build quality & thankfully it also removed a lot of the pressure I was putting myself under. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Anyway, that is enough about what I didn't do today, instead here is what I did do... Started the morning with the all too regular task of tidying up the summer house. :rolleyes: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...o/DSCF4870.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...o/DSCF4871.JPG Put the final coat of paint on the boot lid brackets. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-D...o/DSCF4872.JPG Then turned my attention to this small "blemish" in the boot lid rain channel. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-n...o/DSCF4873.JPG Part of me was prepared to simply ignore it on the basis that it would not normally be on display. But given how long I have spend getting this boot lid to work, this seemed pointless not to spend a bit more time on it. ( Hence the decision to scrap my original plans to bond the body shell on today. ) Unfortunately, there then followed a bit of body filler "mission creep". :rolleyes: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I...o/DSCF4874.JPG While I was waiting for that to set, I masked off various "holes" on the sunny side of the body shell. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-M...o/DSCF4875.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...o/DSCF4876.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-b...o/DSCF4877.JPG So I could get some paint on the corresponding areas on the underside. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-u...o/DSCF4884.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m...o/DSCF4883.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...o/DSCF4880.JPG Although, it was only after I started on the rear section that I remembered that I still had some sanding to do above this section. So I'll come to finish off painting that area later on, instead, after sanding down the filler, the boot area looked like this. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-i...o/DSCF4887.JPG I know the rain channel still isn't great, but at least it is a bit better than before, so it got another coat of etch primer. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7...o/DSCF4889.JPG I removed the top bit of this section of metal from the wheel arches, as it was getting in the way of fitting the body shell. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-s...o/DSCF4890.JPG Although it was somewhat hard to reach with my saw, as I didn't want to risk my angle grinder near the framework. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...o/DSCF4891.JPG After filing away the "point" I'd made, I gave it a quick lick of paint. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B...o/DSCF4892.JPG Then I removed the filler cap and taped up the tank opening so I could put the body shell back on. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-_...o/DSCF4896.JPG End of Part 1... |
Close, but no Cigar - Part 2:
My wife was very pleased to hear that the body shell will only need to be lifted off (& then back on again) one more time after this. :pray: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-X...o/DSCF4897.JPG Note: Remember the back of the car is on blocks, so the back wheels are hanging down. There is good contact between the body and the bulkhead, plus the support panel I added to the framework between the humps. :cool: So these are the areas where the bonding paste will be applied. Previously I mentioned there is a gap between the boot floor and the rear of the body shell. Although the angles of theses photos (& the fact I had to use the flash) do not make it easy to see. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f...o/DSCF4900.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-w...o/DSCF4902.JPG So the final levelling up of the rear of the shell will have to take place after the other sections have been secured. ( Using a similar approach to the cockpit sides, where sections are fibreglassed into position to add strength. ) For now, this is what it looks like. :cool: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-K...o/DSCF4904.JPG Once the body shell is bonded into place, I can then finish off the front wheel arches and bonnet work. But for at least the next week, maybe more, this is how I will have to leave the car. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-v...o/DSCF4905.JPG At least it is all under one cover, unlike the last time I took a break. :rolleyes: Cheers, Paul. :) |
Looks great Paul
The biggest compliment I can give is no one would ever know how many hours and heartache have gone into making this look like this |
Paul Great to see that you are very close to a major hurdle and finally getting the shell bonded on to the sub frame which is a big boost to the moral.
Good luck. |
Roadster & Swifty - Thanks gentlemen. :cool:
It is nice to see how complete the car looks now, especially as going down the Frankenstein build route was such a big leap of faith. I also take comfort from the fact that I know I can finish the remaining bodywork jobs, which will improve the final look still further. So I'll try not to worry about various symmetry issues, as the overall impression now out weighs the sum of its parts (if that makes sense). Similarly, I will also try to avoid thinking about deadlines and just accept there is still a long way to go, but I will get there "one day". Cheers, Paul. :) |
Great job Paul !
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Zebra69 - Cheers. :cool:
If you ever get the chance, it would be nice to see an update on your own build thread one day. ( I saw you posted a message on the latest 2CV Sammio build. ) Take care, Paul. :) |
Bonus Day:
I've actually been feeling rough all week, so no real progress on all the "non car" stuff I'm meant to be doing. :rolleyes: I actually felt pretty good today, so decided to spend some time outside in the fresh air to aid my recovery. :icon_wink: I'd been re-reading how Mister Towed bonded/fibreglassed his body shell into place before adding the plywood panels. This reminded me that it would be a good idea to treat all the plywood I have while the weather forecast was for a dry day. ( I actually bought a lot more plywood than I will need, but I might as well do it now all while I'm at it. ) Unfortunately, there was a lot of drew on the lawn first thing this morning. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-l...o/DSCF4905.JPG So I laid out some dust sheets on various other bits of "dry land" around the garden and patio. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Q...o/DSCF4908.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U...o/DSCF4909.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m...o/DSCF4911.JPG I gave the plywood two coats of the same paint/preservative that I used on some of our fence panels, which should help to protect it. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h...o/DSCF4925.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/DSCF4924.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-F...o/DSCF4922.JPG By the time I could turn the panels over and do the other side, the grass was dry enough to use. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I...o/DSCF4927.JPG - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - In between the coats of paint on the plywood I also sneaked in a bit of painting on the body shell too. Masked off the area around the boot lid rain channel. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-e...o/DSCF4916.JPG Then painted the sunny side black. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-G...o/DSCF4917.JPG I'll do the underside of this when the body shell is back off again. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - The only other thing I did today was have another look at how I might line up the rear end of the car. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9...o/DSCF4919.JPG Before making a cardboard template for a simple level to sit between the exhaust pipes. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...o/DSCF4921.JPG As it currently stands, the driver's side needs to come up a bit and the passenger side needs to drop a bit. ( Although I will re-check that the pipes are level next time the body shell is off, just to be sure. ) Unfortunately, when I tried to cut this shape out of some plywood, my jigsaw completely packed up. :icon_sad: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - The plywood is now stacked in the Summer House so it can fully dry overnight. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-N...o/DSCF4931.JPG Unfortunately, it now looks like I'm trying to build a wood panelled library, rather than a cockpit interior! :rolleyes: Or perhaps I should swap my car seats for something more appropriate. http://www.thechesterfieldcompany.co...ir_leather.jpg Until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Psycho Pops - Cheers, I also found those early Spyder build threads inspiring, as they lead me to join this forum and buy a Cordite.
Without a doubt, I certainly would not have over come the challenges I've faced without the help and support of the people on this forum. :cool: I know there is a lot to be said for not setting a specific finishing date, but I do intend to be on the road sometime in 2016, see below. ( Edit: I wrote this reply yesterday, to a post that is no longer there, honest. ) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "On The Road" vs. "Finished": Whilst I have enjoyed following Swifty preparing and painting his car over the last few months. :cool: http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...7&d=1443985513 The HUGE amount of time & effort this sort of super smooooth finish requires is really quite scary. :eek: ( I also remember all the effort put in by Mac, Mr T, DaveCymru, Scottie, etc. on their builds too. ) So I have finally decided to stick with the basic plan of aiming for an MOT before final paint & associated prep work. Micky1Mo successfully used this approach on his BMW Sammio... June 2015 - MOT'd & On the road. http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6dja5tjk.jpg October 2015 - Painted. :cool: http://i1329.photobucket.com/albums/...psrlokbro7.jpg Notes: - I still intend to complete the wheel arches & body shell extension work, so I can finalise securing the bonnet. - As most of my car is already covered in etch primer, I will ensure it is at least grey all over before the MOT. - This approach means that things like the headlights and front indicators can stay where they are for now. - I will then add the rear lights, aero screens, mirrors, etc. once the body shell is bonded on. ( Getting the car on the road will make up for any extra time required to remove all these items again for paint. ) - Some "finishing off" jobs like padded head rests and a tonneau cover (similar to Mr T's) were always due after paint. http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...psf108d309.jpg - I will get some professional help to sort out my clutch problem and service/set up my engine properly. - My "To Do" list just to reach an MOT currently stretches out beyond the curvature of the earth. :rolleyes: That last point means that I will not be driving the car anytime soon. However, I do hope that it means I can have a separate "Post MOT" list for jobs that can genuinely wait. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - More World Cup Rugby: Another family trip out yesterday for our first visit to Twickenham to see Wales vs. Australia. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h...o/IMG_1080.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-p...o/IMG_1091.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-d...o/IMG_1082.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...o/IMG_1095.JPG I spent 3 years living in The Valleys, but "Land of my further education" doesn't have quite the same ring to it. :icon_wink: Jokes aside, gutted that Wales couldn't make any of their numerous try attempts count. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Yes there was a post, you didn't imagine it, but little fingers managed to delete it when left open..
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Hi Paul I recommend something similar to this...... http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...000822&alt=web Aldi had them last week about £29.99 I bought one from lidl about 3 years ago for a one off job for a customer I think I had to cut some rot out of huge barn doors and I thought if I can get in with that it will save taking the doors off which it did. Since then it has become one of my most used tools I even run it off an inverter in my van to slice ply up from the merchants so it will fit it saving taking a trailer or tying on the roof.its also the most borrowed tool by my father and brother tool. Perfect for your paneling jobs (the straight cuts anyway)you can use the side fence if close the edge or free hand or clamp a straight edge on the ply and run down that. Mine cuts ply upto an inch with a very neat finish well worth £30 if they have any left you can adjust the blade depth to cut a groove too. I have a 6" and 9" circ saw and rarely use them now. Once your cars on the road I thoroughly recommend getting yourself a sewing machine and having a stab at the tonneu cover and trim parts yourself my sewing machine is now my favourite hobby in fact I been sewing since 6am today which is odd when I used to do off road trail events on Sundays. My heavy sewing machine was a £23 eBay Christmas bargain thread is £5 for a big spool of rot proof bonded nylon and I pay £75 for a full cow hide or £10 a meter for 1.5m width of a 40% leather faux leather material which is really good I may do my van seats. Most canvas or waterproof heavy materials are under £10 a meter and I think you would really enjoy it and you would also of done everything on the car I learnt everything off you tube. Keep it up looking good Ed.
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Psycho Pops - Glad to hear I am not going completely mad. :icon_wink:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Ed - Thanks for the mini circular saw link, but I'd already picked up a cheap jigsaw by the time I saw your message. I am sure I could "have a go" at making a tonneau cover, but think a professional one would make a nice "finishing touch". :cool: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - I've only had the chance to cut out my plywood "alignment tool" to fit around the twin tail pipes. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-o...o/DSCF4905.JPG I just need to do a bit of sanding/filing to ensure that it all sits "square" and double check the position of the pipes relative to the boot floor. But I really need to sort a few other things out before I resume work on the car. Cheers, Paul. :) |
Inching Along...
Managed to sneaked a little bit of car work in today... Cleaned up the rubber seal for the boot lid. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x...o/DSCF4905.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-O...o/DSCF4906.JPG - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Made some cardboard templates to "bridge" the horizontal gaps from the cockpit framework to the body shell. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I...o/DSCF4914.JPG These will eventually be cut out of one of my original fibreglass floor pans (avoiding the "wobbly" bits). https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-y...o/DSCF4929.JPG Then some fibreglass matting will added to the edges to hold the body shell in position. ( Until the vertical plywood panels are added. ) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - I had a brief look at how I could bridge the gap between the rear edge of the boot floor and the body shell. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B...o/DSCF4920.JPG This panel (when complete) will be keeping the boot water tight, rather than supporting the rear shell (see below). Note: I fear there will be a lot of fiddly work at the corners and where the tail pipes are held in place. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - I wanted to quickly paint the underside of mounting points for the boot lid lock latches. So I propped up the back. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...o/DSCF4922.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-h...o/DSCF4925.JPG I couldn't get a decent photo of the paint underneath, but at least I can now refit the latches. :cool: I also removed the masking tape and newspaper from the sunny side of the boot lid opening. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Y...o/DSCF4928.JPG - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Supporting the rear section of the body shell: The rear of the Spyder body shell is supported by the Herald's outriggers, this is Mr T's. http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/001-57.jpg Whereas, the original combination of Cordite framework and Spitfire chassis left "thin air" at the rear. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...L/DSCF7495.jpg Thankfully, I now have a boot floor / tail pipe support bracket to play with. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x...o/DSCF4542.JPG Although re-reading Swifty's build reminded me that his rear sub-frame/boot area provides more support for the body shell. :cool: http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...0&d=1413139357 I also liked the way Michiel added sections to the rear of his body shell, that then rested on the internal framework. #47 http://i1330.photobucket.com/albums/...ps38299567.jpg So I am going to use a variation of that theme, that will involve adding panels along the sloping sides of my bracket. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-v...o/DSCF4916.JPG Plus adding some panels from the angle iron running across the rear of the boot floor up to the body shell too. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-S...o/DSCF4918.JPG Note: I will make proper templates after the body shell has been bonded on at the front & the "middle" (between the humps). - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Cordite Dreamin'
All the leaves are brown (the leaves are brown) And the sky is grey (and the sky is grey) https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-9...o/DSCF4911.JPG Whilst I do love Autumn colours, I know working on the car always gets harder once leaves start appearing on my "garage" floor . It is already noticeably colder outside and I can't believe the clocks are going back this weekend. :eek: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Another Inch Just had the chance to refit the rubber seal around the boot lid rain channel and the brackets for the boot lid locks. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-t...o/DSCF4910.JPG Thankfully, the black paint does make this area look a lot better than it did before. :cool: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Revised Plan Even though I've not been able to work on the car recently, I have been pulling together various "To Do" lists. I am trying hard to group jobs together in a logical order to reach mini milestones on the road to an MOT. So far, the next few key stages look like this: - Continue looking at where/how the body shell will be joined to the Moon Rover. - Remove the body shell for the last time for better access to the last few jobs required. - Finally bond the body shell into place. - Bridge all the remaining gaps to add strength and make things water tight. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Hi Paul,
Keep it up! Like you I was obsessed with making things water tight but it dawned on me that it it rains, the inside of the car is going to get wet! So if a little comes through the sides etc., it won't be noticed when it meets the stuff coming through the gaping hole where most cars have a roof!. I can understand why you will want to keep the boot dry but the realist in me thinks that drain holes might be a better friend than seals! I have made a fair bit of progress recently (too lazy to update my thread but I shall) and the realisation (outlined above) has led me to decide (for the time being) to make the body fully removable so that I can return quickly to the moon rover stage if I need to carry out any significant work. I know that there are disadvantages as well as advantages to this approach but I thought I would share just in case this option is swimming around in that Sammio Thinkotorium that we call our heads. |
Oxford - You make a valid point about the slight possibility of water seeping through the gaping hole where the roof should be.
:icon_wink: So I should really stop using the phrase "water tight", when what I really mean to say is closing the gaps to make the car "MOT friendly". Because, much as I like the simple construction techniques used here... http://www.onallcylinders.com/wp-con...PM-626x448.png I can't imagine getting an MOT if the tester can actually see the ground from the cockpit! :eek: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5...o/DSCF4753.JPG I saw this car's "underside" on "Rods 'n' Sods" recently and thought it would definitely look impressive from the MOT pit. :cool: http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/...59d4c987db.jpg Whilst I will certainly not be able to match that level of quality, my Frankenstein approach has given me a hint of factory finish underneath. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-H...o/DSCF4496.JPG So as long as I can join all the various edges to the body shell I will be happy. Note: I will be adding some extra drain holes to various points in the car as well. Cheers, Paul. :) PS As Winter approaches, it would be great to see an update on your build to motivate the rest of us to keep plugging away. I know Micky1Mo uses a bolt on body shell approach for his BMW Sammio, but I didn't notice if there are any gaps where it joins. |
My plan is to build a continuous tub (no views of the road beneath!) with sides that are 2/3 or the full height of the body, and then sit the strengthened body on this.
Imagine your floor pan (which is very smart) with sides and you will have a rough idea. |
Oxford - Looking forward to seeing your approach in action. :cool:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Winter Time: The clocks going back mark the start of my 4th Winter on this project. :icon_sad: However, looking back over the last few Winters, the good news is that, despite the weather, I still manage to make process. So with a few hours available to spend on the car today, it was time to pull on my woolly hat and get on with it. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - My wife helped me lift off the body shell, for what should be <touch wood> the last time. :pray: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c...o/DSCF4916.JPG This will allow me to make the final adjustments required to both the body shell and the Moon Rover. You may recall that I painted the area that extends beyond the bulkhead over the dash board. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j...o/DSCF4926.JPG Unfortunately, I forgot that there is a similar "over hang" at the front of the bulkhead too. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-e...o/DSCF4927.JPG So I need to paint the area to the right of the red line in the photo above. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - With the body shell out of the way, I was able to fine tune my "alignment tool", after adjusting one of the tail pipes. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J...o/DSCF4921.JPG The bottom line is there no real datum point to work with, so the boot floor support bracket is now my reference point. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Thankfully, I remembered I was planning to recycle the main sections of the fibreglass floors into engine bay deflectors. So I cut out the "bridging" sections I need for the sides of the body shell from other bits of 'left over' fibreglass. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-K...o/DSCF4914.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-e...o/DSCF4915.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J...o/DSCF4928.JPG - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - I'd added a section of metal across the internal framework to help me brace the body shell between the humps. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-U...o/DSCF4922.JPG But one thing that was always in the back of my mind was that the body shell did not cover the length of this support. The following photos are taken from underneath the body shell, so they are not great. However, you can still seen that on the passenger side, the extra hump was added on top of the body shell in this area. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-U...o/DSCF4923.JPG Whereas, on the driver's side, the original hump has "thin air" beneath it at the rear cockpit edge end. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-X...o/DSCF4924.JPG Although this "gap" was bridged where the humps were cut to make the boot lid, like so. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-U...o/DSCF4925.JPG So I cut out another section of 'left over' fibreglass. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8...o/DSCF4929.JPG Which will be used to bridge the gap between the driver's hump here: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P...o/DSCF4931.JPG Note: I am deliberately tucking this in a bit, so there is no risk of fouling against the framework. ( I will just use a bigger blob of bonding paste in this area. ) The panel was then taped into position. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T...o/DSCF4935.JPG Before I started adding some fibreglass matting to seal/join the edges. Not my neatest work, but given that I couldn't actually see what I was doing, not bad. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p...o/DSCF4940.JPG Although once this has set properly, I will tidy it up and add a final layer of matting across the joins. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - The last job of the day was to double check the "latches" for the boot lid locks. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-x...o/DSCF4942.JPG Thankfully they are work fine, so that is one less thing to worry about. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - End of Part 1... |
St. Crispian's Day:
Today marks the 600th anniversary of Henry V's victory at the Battle of Agincourt. :cool: Although I only know this because I read about it in Friday's newspaper. :rolleyes: And I only mention it here, because of a post I saw on the Tribute forum about the Z300s at a classic car show at Brooklands this morning. Quote:
"And gentlemen in England at car shows Shall think themselves accurs'd they did simply buy their classic cars, And hold their manhoods cheap while any speaks That fought with a kit to build their own car." :icon_wink: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Quote:
Keep plugging away Paul. :) |
Mister Towed - Hopefully now is the Winter of my body shell finally being bonded into place.
Although admittedly that doesn't have quite the same ring about it. :icon_wink: Jokes aside, thanks for the encouragement. :cool: As I've been re-reading your build thread a lot recently to remind myself how you joined your body to the frame. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Monday - Part 1: I've made a lot of progress in "non car" areas recently, so I wanted to make the most of the current fine weather. ( Then I can switch back to other stuff when the rain arrives towards the end of the week. ) Yesterday's work on the driver's hump "bridge" had set and was strong enough to hold everything in place. So I removed all the tape from the outside. ( Sorry the photo is so blurred. ) https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...o/DSCF4944.JPG Then cleaned up the fibreglass matting applied to the inside edges. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-B...o/DSCF4945.JPG Note: This could only be done "blind" which resulted in my hands picking up a lot of fibreglass splinters. :icon_sad: Then I added a final layer of matting on the inside and made another mess. :rolleyes: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-P...o/DSCF4948.JPG Then I added some matting along the outside edges of the bridge panel too. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...o/DSCF4946.JPG - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - I applied a thin coat of Tetroseal to the underside of the body shell around the rear lights. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/DSCF4951.JPG Plus the inside of the wheel arches, as my Spitfire arches will be lower than these. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-9...o/DSCF4954.JPG I also remembered something Mr T said a long time ago and left "gaps" where any joins need to be made. E.g. This is where the Spitfire arches will be extended out to meet the body shell. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d...o/DSCF4956.JPG - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Used some masking tape to mark out the front "over hang" area. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G...o/DSCF4949.JPG Then sprayed some etch primer on it. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-s...o/DSCF4950.JPG - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - When the matting I added this morning was set, I sanded down the outside edges of the driver's hump bridge panel. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-c...o/DSCF4912.JPG Also cleaned up the inside edges a bit before covering the inside with Tetroseal. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M...o/DSCF4919.JPG I also did the other side of the hump that was cut off for the boot lid. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z...o/DSCF4916.JPG So now the area that will be bonded to the Moon Rover looks like this. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3...o/DSCF4924.JPG Again, the untreated fibreglass is where the bonding paste will be applied. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - End of Part 1... |
Monday - Part 2:
Mixed up some bonding paste as part of an experiment to check the mix ratio / pot life in colder weather. I then used it to "entomb" the bolts holding the framework to the bulkhead. ( As once the body shell is bonded into position, these two sections will never be separated again. ) https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...o/DSCF4925.JPG The bonding paste turns from a bright blue to a light brown very quickly, which makes me nervous. But, thankfully, it can still be "shaped" when it is this colour, so it doesn't set as soon as the colour changes. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-t...o/DSCF4927.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G...o/DSCF4928.JPG I used just under 150ml for this little job, so I will need to mix up a HUGE amount when the time comes to bond the body shell on. :eek: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Hopefully I will get a bit more done tomorrow. So until then, take care, Paul. :) |
Monday - Post Script:
So much for worrying about the bonding paste setting too quickly, as it was still "wet" 2 hours later when I went to put the covers on. :rolleyes: In the end I had to use some bits of wood to "extend" the width of the body shell to ensure the tarpaulin didn't touch the paste before it had set properly. But I was actually doing some more research on bonding last night (see below) and came across this great quote... Quote:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Bonding Research: The various Sammio websites always included a "Getting Started" section and this Moon Rover photo is taken from there. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R...9-no/Frame.jpg Unfortunately, the websites never included any photos of where / how much bonding paste was applied to the framework. :icon_sad: Thankfully, Mister Towed did include some photos showing the bonding paste blobs he applied on his build. http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/004-24.jpg http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/005-13.jpg It is possible I might have missed it, but I think this is the only build thread that showed this stage in any detail. :cool: ( Although there are lots of photos of body shells strapped into place after bonding. ) The key thing for me is remembering that the bonding paste only played a small part in the joining process. ( After all, there is very little framework "surface area" to play with on the "Sammio" Moon Rover in the website photo above. ) Instead, it the fibreglass / panelling work done after the bonding that really holds things together. Note: Clearly the bonding stage does determine the alignment of the body shell, so has to be done properly. I've re-read a lot of build thread recently and DaveCymru's Miglia actually skipped the bonding stage all together. ( He simply strapped the shell into position and then 'glassed it into place and added some alloy brackets too. ) Whilst I will only have two points of contact between my Moon Rover and the body shell, they have BIG surface areas. #1 - Top of bulkhead, which the body shell was moulded to fit over as part of my Frankenstein build approach. ( Sorry, this was the first photo of the top of the bulkhead I could find. :rolleyes: ) https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-q...o/DSCF4514.JPG #2 - Support panel between the humps. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-U...o/DSCF4922.JPG This was yet another idea I stole from Mr T, after first seeing his "Incredible Bonding Blob". http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ion/003-32.jpg I think it was this photo that was making me worried yesterday about just how much bonding paste I would need to mix up. However, I now realise my bulkhead will just need a thin(ish) skim and the rear panel will not need as much as Mr T. ( As differences in the framework / body shell design mean the gap to fill is smaller on my car. ) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Right, I'm off now to see how much closer I can actually get to the bonding stage today. :pray: Cheers, Paul. :) |
And it was all going so well - Part 1:
I wanted to see if I could sort out why the fuel gauge was reading low before the body shell went back on. So I started by simply unbolting the earth connection and cleaning the frame back to bare metal. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...o/DSCF4916.JPG But a good earth was clearly not the problem and cleaning the contacts for the wires didn't help either. Eventually I was able to get the gauge to move over to the right. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P2...X=w959-h719-no But this was because I had the sender unit in my hand. :rolleyes: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-k...o/DSCF4912.JPG However, at least I knew both the gauge and sender unit worked. :cool: My real fear was that by turning the fuel feed pipe through 180 degrees it was fouling the float arm. It was only while I was trying to look inside the tank to see what was going on that the light bulb finally came on. Not easy to see in this photo, but the tank, along with the rest of the car, is on a slope. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O...o/DSCF4914.JPG So the reason the gauge is reading low, is that the petrol is "pooled" on one side and giving a low reading. Which means that in the famous words of Roberto De Vicenzo.... "What a stupid I am." Tidied up the rear wiring loom along the frame work and then continued into the boot area. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j...o/DSCF4917.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-T...o/DSCF4918.JPG Cleaned up the three earthing points back to bare metal. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-A...o/DSCF4923.JPG Removed all the rear lighting as the testing is complete and then bolted the earth connections into place. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A...o/DSCF4924.JPG Note: I will zip tie the loom out of the way when I have sealed off the gap between the boot floor and the body shell. There are a few "factory" holes left in the top of the bulkhead. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...o/DSCF4919.JPG So I covered them with come card and masking tape to prevent bonding paste "leaking" below. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-U...o/DSCF4920.JPG I have used a bit of yoga mat in the section below the rear view mirror mounting point. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-p...o/DSCF4921.JPG So I will then be able to pull this out from below when the time comes to fit the mirror. Sprayed some black paint on to the front over hang. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-6...o/DSCF4925.JPG Not a great photo, but various sections of the inside edge of the rear arches needed a bit of a trim. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-7...o/DSCF4926.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-z...o/DSCF4928.JPG Dug out my tie down straps to check they were all working. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-m...o/DSCF4929.JPG Some are in a sorry state, but should be able to hold the body shell in place when the time comes. I started measuring out some bonding paste. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i...o/DSCF4930.JPG So I now have 2 tubs with 400ml in them, but no catalyst added. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-O...o/DSCF4931.JPG Because, believe it or not, I am finally ready to bond the body shell on. :cool: Or at least I thought I was... End of Part 1... |
Part 2:
Unfortunately, my wife had to pop out and I needed her to help me get the body shell back on. In the end she was delayed, so I made the rather rash decision to lift the body shell single handed. This was physically quite a strain, but there was a real risk I would drop and break the body shell. :eek: So I was very happy when the body shell was finally in position. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E...o/DSCF4932.JPG Note: My plan was to prop up the body shell from this position, add the bonding paste and then drop it back down. ( Thus avoiding any panic to get the body shell in place without "catching" the bonding paste while moving it. ) Unfortunately, my joy was short lived, as the new bridge panel under the driver's hump fouled the frame. :rant: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-J...o/DSCF4933.JPG I really should have known better than to put a straight line anywhere near my body shell without checking first. :icon_sad: The only good news is that I can fix this by cutting out a small section of the "bridge". But by now it was getting dark so I decided to pack up for the night and live to fight another day. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...o/DSCF4938.JPG I could even raise a smile when I discovered than one lid was missing. :rolleyes: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...o/DSCF4935.JPG Depending on the weather, and other stuff I need to do, I might be able to sort this out tomorrow. :pray: Until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Wednesday:
Was actually woken up this morning by the sound of the rain lashing down outside. :icon_sad: But I did manage to make a little bit of progress this afternoon... The driver's hump bride was lifting the body shell off the framework like so. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-H...o/DSCF4911.JPG So I propped up the rear of the body shell to give me access to the driver's hump bridge. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-K...o/DSCF4918.JPG But it was almost impossible to cut the "relief" hole I needed in this position. :icon_sad: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i...o/DSCF4920.JPG I even managed to slice through the body shell. :icon_evil: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z...o/DSCF4919.JPG So I had to admit defeat and wait for my wife to return so I could lift the body shell off. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M...o/DSCF4923.JPG At least this give you a better view of the painting I did at both ends. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I...o/DSCF4922.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-C...o/DSCF4924.JPG In the end I probably made the hole a lot bigger than it needed to be. ( But I just couldn't face lifting the body shell on and off any more to fine tune the size. ) https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-K...o/DSCF4925.JPG By 4.30pm the sun was setting in the West. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-5...o/DSCF4926.JPG So, with my wife's help, the body shell was lifted back into place. Thankfully, the frame has once again "disappeared" behind the lip. :cool: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-J...o/DSCF4927.JPG Although it then dawned on me that the bonding paste will actually lift this up a little bit, but that is OK. I knew that the body shell was now sitting lower at the back when I offered up my alignment tools. This was yesterday and notice how the "T" sits under the piece connecting the rear lighting. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E...o/DSCF4932.JPG Whereas today, there is not enough room under the horizontal piece for the "T" template to sit. ( A small bit of pressure on the passenger side is enough to level the rear of the shell. ) https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-s...o/DSCF4928.JPG Clearly this was extra work that could have been avoided if I had thought things through properly. :rolleyes: But at least the body shell was now sitting on the framework properly. Right, I'm off for a pint with my best mate, cheers, Paul. :) |
I think there are few photos of the bonding process as we were all sh!*ing ourselves at this stage, it is such a huge milestone in the build.
Ps congratulations on knocking Towed off the number one spot for post , views and replies 163000 views is pretty impressive but the 106 pages was a pain to troll through in search of your wiring diagram.... Keep going. Pops |
Pops - Well I can now empathise with the worries other builders have at this stage (see below).
And I never wanted to knock Mister Towed off the top spot, as his inspirational build really deserved to be there. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Bond... Body Shell Bond" Badap ba daa ba da daa ba daa da deda daa... I started the day by looking at how the tie down straps could be used to hold the body shell in place. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-l...o/DSCF4929.JPG Including how the rear passenger corner could be pulled into position. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-A...o/DSCF4930.JPG I added some masking tape to the painted "over hang" sections on either side of the bulkhead. ( Sorry the photos I took of this were rubbish. :rolleyes: ) The boot opening allows me to reach my hand in between the metal support plate and the body shell. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-9...o/DSCF4933.JPG Which in turn, gives me a rough guide to how deep the bonding paste needs to be in this area (approx. 2cm max). As I wanted to use enough paste for the job, without leaving too much excess paste left over to be squeezed out. Well that was the theory anyway, but now it was time to make it work in practise. :eek: So I propped up the body shell again. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4...o/DSCF4935.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-R...o/DSCF4936.JPG Then added catalyst to the tubs of bonding paste I'd measured out the other day, before it was spread out in small "piles". https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...o/DSCF4938.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7...o/DSCF4940.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-g...o/DSCF4939.JPG Note: You can see where paste from the first tub had already started to change colour by the time I'd mixed up and applied the second tub. Again, the theory was that these piles would be squeezed into the gaps by the body shell to make a solid join. Then I removed the blocks & gently lowered the body shell into place and it felt like there was paste oozing around underneath. As I went around the car tightening the tie down straps, a few of the straps snapped. :rant: I had to tie knots in the straps until it was all held in place, with a few breeze blocks added for extra downward pressure. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-d...o/DSCF4941.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-q...o/DSCF4942.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E...o/DSCF4944.JPG So there you have it, some 3 years later than I originally expected, but the body shell is finally bonded into place. :cool: Note: Despite using my basic alignment tools, it was not possible to get the rear end perfectly aligned. :icon_sad: ( As I felt I was putting too much strain on the tie down strap and didn't want to crack the body shell itself. ) Which means it is time to dig out one of my favourite quotes... Quote:
:icon_wink: By now the sky was getting dark and there was been rain promised in the forecast. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-L...o/DSCF4945.JPG So I didn't want to push my luck and start adding the fibreglass "bridges" to the internal cockpit sides. Instead I simply put the covers over everything, including the breeze blocks. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-r...o/DSCF4946.JPG Not sure if I will have the chance to do any more work on the car today. But, either way, as Pops mentioned in his reply, this is still a major landmark in this build and I am very relieved to have reached this point. Until next time, take care, Paul. :) |
Well done Paul, hope this job is the final hump and its all coasting down hill from now on. Ed
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Good Job Paul This is a huge milestone and no more talk of moon rovers heheh you have an almost finished race car
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Very well done.
It's all down hill from here on in!!:roll::roll: |
Great day Paul, :hail:
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