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-   -   Marlin Roadster (Re)Build (http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7340)

Mitchelkitman 19th April 2021 15:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by MartinClan (Post 106317)
I am now on the hunt for some decent plywood to make the doors proper from. Not so easy as one might think nowadays...

Cheers, Robin

Indeed - I bought some ply from B&Q - meant to be boil and waterproof exterior ply. I treated it to a couple of coats of Sadolin and put it on my trailer. Within 2 days (no rain, just dew fall) it was bent like a banana! I returned it, and was immediately told "we cut it, so you can't return it". I requested to speak to the Manager, and he immediately granted a refund. I think you'll need a specialist supplier, or How about making the doors using GRP?

Grey V8 Pete 19th April 2021 18:17

Why not try marine ply from a boatbuilders? If it will stand a sea environment it should be ok. Peter.

molleur 19th April 2021 21:05

Have you priced ANY plywood of late?
really expensive these days.

MartinClan 20th April 2021 07:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by molleur (Post 106325)
Have you priced ANY plywood of late?
really expensive these days.

Yes, it's expensive. The problem I have found is that even some of the expensive stuff is rubbish. I don't mind the cost if the quality is there but the stuff from the usual builders merchants suppliers is, without exception, rubbish. So that means mail order which almost doubles the cost. Grrr

Cheers, Robin

Lucky@LeMans 20th April 2021 08:50

Have you thought about making an ash frame and skinning with aluminium ? The coach builders method from years ago. The trouble with ply is that it will twist and distort if its hung on its side as a door.

kon 20th April 2021 09:31

Or how about a hybrid? Exterior grade ply as the frame, with fist-sized holes added for lightness, and as a reinforcing shape. Then coat with epoxy to seal it, and cover with fiberglass, leaving one side on a flat surface to make the exterior smooth and flat, with the reinforcing shape visible on the inside.

MartinClan 20th April 2021 10:10

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. The original doors were 25mm ply skinned with aluminium and never warped - so I was following that method. The trick I hope is to get some good quality ply and then seal it against moisture ingress. My favourite so far is something called duraply which is an engineered ply made from Poplar.

I will be cutting out the centre though so as to allow for a small door pocket and lighten the whole thing. I have just completed building a camper van from scratch so have all the good tools for that kind of thing.

Cheers, Robin

MartinClan 5th July 2021 15:20

A little update
 
It seems ages ago since I last posted an update but I have been beavering away.
I have made new seatbelt mounts to take standard inertia reel belts. I say new, but there wasn't really any proper seat belt mounts previously with static seatbelts just being attached to the aluminium inner skin. Ooo-err...

I have also been working on the rear tub repairing myriads of holes so its back to how it would have originally been supplied by Marlin. Also, in an attempt to improve both the appearance and strength I have added several layers of fibreglass tape to the top edge. It's now fairly consistantly about 6mm thick - previously it varied between about 2 and 6mm. Still needs some work but its getting there.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2c96578d_b.jpgseatbelt_mount4 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...71431ba3_b.jpgtub2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

The observant may spot that there is more clearance between the tub and seatbelt mount one side to the other. Not sure what is out of true yet - some careful measuring needed...

Cheers, Robin


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