Hi Robin,
to be honest, no I hadn't thought of using aluminium. The bulge doesn't need to be very pretty as it will be covered in carpet but, I'll bear it in mind if it doesn't work out with the GRP.
thanks, Peter

The principle is pretty easy. Two pieces of 18mm mdf. Cut matching holes in them the shape of the bulge. Sandwidge the ali sheet between them and clamp well. The ali needs to be about 50mm bigger all round than the hole. Belt with a soft headed hammer.

To make it easier you can anneal the ali first. Smear if with bar soap. Heat it with a blow torch until the soap goes brown. Allow to cool. Bar soap goes brown just before the melting point of ali so don't overdo it!

Robin

Propshaft
 

Now my engine and gearbox are mounted in their final positions I could turn my attention to writing a specification for a propshaft. This needed to have a suitable flange at the front to match the BMW gearbox and a standard four bolt flange to match the Ford Sierra diff at the back. Royale specified a 2" tube to allow the 'shaft to be removed through the top of the transmission tunnel. Alternatively, you have to remove the engine and gearbox to get the propshaft out. I hope I will never have to replace the propshaft in my lifetime but I still wanted to retain the ability to remove it without taking the engine and gearbox out.
I sent my spec to four suppliers and made my decision based on the quality of their response and price. Bailey Morris and D&F (Dunning and Fairbank) both raised an eyebrow about building it with a 2" tube but when supplied with with further details about the gearbox, diff, tyre diameter, etc they both confirmed that this would be safe up to 85mph cruising in fifth gear.
In the end I chose D&F who were very helpful, knowledgeable and came back with a keen price.
It arrived last week and I'm very pleased with the quality and finish.

Front end is a flange to match the BMW gearbox. Sliding joint to allow variation in length under acceleration.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1528/...3046fd71_c.jpgPropshaft by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Final drive/diff flange to match Ford Sierra diff.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1600/...8cc14789_c.jpgPropshaft by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Propshaft bolts fitted.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1475/...e5bb03c2_c.jpgPropshaft bolts by marlinpeter, on Flickr

These M12x40mm cap head screws just fitted past the yokes without any modification.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1461/...65418fe0_c.jpgPropshaft bolts by marlinpeter, on Flickr

This bolt needs to be fitted through the flange before offering it up to the gearbox.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1692/...92c39dcb_c.jpgPropshaft bolts by marlinpeter, on Flickr

And, I had to modify one of my allen keys to fit the bolt that is opposite the U/J.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1643/...e10021d4_c.jpgPropshaft bolts by marlinpeter, on Flickr

All in I'm very pleased and would highly recommend D&F propshafts. :smile:


...peter

Pedaling along.....
 

I've been working on the pedal box and brake master cylinder mounting.

Before mounting the pedal box and brake master cylinder, I needed to clean up this area of bodywork. It was a bit of a mess from the original builders holes plus some holes I made trial fitting other types of brake servos. First I sanded off all the original paint and primer. I chamfered the holes and screwed a piece of MDF covered in packing tape behind the holes.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8383/2...e06a7ecc02.jpgBrake M/C mounting area repair by marlinpeter, on Flickr

I filled the holes roughly with Isopon P40 fibre filler, sanded down and filled with Isopon P38 and then sand flat and smooth.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8795/2...6aba0251d9.jpgBrake M/C mounting area repair by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Primed and then filled some small indents with a fine surface filler. Then sanded flat with wet and dry and then another coat of primer.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8507/2...8cc7414a70.jpgBrake M/C mounting area repair by marlinpeter, on Flickr

I've mounted the brake master cylinder on a 6mm thick steel disc (from Lasermaster.co.uk). The holes for all the bolts are threaded so that I don't have to be Houdini and get to both sides at the same time. The bolts will be threadlocked in the disc during final assembly. There are three M8 bolts that go through the GRP bulkhead and connect with the Sierra pedal box. Longer m/c bolts will be used during final assembly.
The m/c reservoir isn't quite at the right angle but I think it will work OK.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8271/2...81d559f6d9.jpgBrake Master Cylinder mounting by marlinpeter, on Flickr

The pedal box is fixed by three M8 bolts through the bulkhead to the steel disc plus a single M12 bolt to the substantial scuttle bar. I need to replace that rusty rectangular spreading plate.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7482/2...b0ac5de6a0.jpgPedal box mounting by marlinpeter, on Flickr

The pedal spacing is a bit weird so I've started work on cutting the clutch pedal to reshape it.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8013/2...392ba05d5b.jpgPedal Spacing by marlinpeter, on Flickr

...peter

Hi peter, Good to see you are back on the project. And must say, it is a brilliant way of mounting the Brake master cylinder onto the bulkhead.
I had a thought about the gearbox cover which you had to modify. Have you considered making it a removable cover, like that of the old Triumphs and Morris minors? It would make the removal of BMW Gearbox a much simpler job, should a new clutch be required. It can be done without jeopardising the integrity of the body tub.
Just a thought.
Wishing you all the best with the project.
Amir

Hi Amir,
progress on the Sabre has been unfortunately slow due to too many other projects!
And yes, my plan is to make the gearbox cover removable but things were not going to well with the re-shaping, so I've decided to leave it for now and come back to it later.
best regards,
Peter

Nice clean up job on the bulkhead :)

Thanks, Patrick, it came out better than expected.

I've now finished modifying the pedals to improve the spacing, painted all the parts and rebuilt the pedal box.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8134/3...0c961edda4.jpgPedal Box by marlinpeter, on Flickr

And here it is back in the car....

https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5511/3...5711c5ab85.jpgPedal Box by marlinpeter, on Flickr

The clutch master cylinder hydraulic connection exits here. I'm using a regular 6mm plumbing fitting to join onto the BMW pipe.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8599/3...2b0624dc0f.jpgClutch M/C by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Next on the plan is the brake lines from the master cylinder to the servo and the clutch hydraulic line to the slave cylinder.


...peter

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8271/2...81d559f6d9.jpgBrake Master Cylinder mounting by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Whilst the brake master cylinder clears the engine OK, one of the ports is directly opposite the rocker cover. Even with the tightest bend, the pipe still wouldn't fit even if I carved a slot in the cover. The solution I came up with is to use a banjo fitting.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5444/3...6a4854b1a7.jpgBrake M/C to Servo lines by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Having decided to use a banjo fitting but I found the price of separate fittings so high that I decided to go for some complete custom flexible lines from HEL. The banjo fitting fitted just fine but an unforeseen issue is that the other end doesn't fit my Iruna brake servo slave cylinder.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8412/3...601144e0f2.jpgBrake M/C to Servo lines by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Despite remembering to order 3/8" UNF to match the Iruna servo the HEL fitting doesn't tighten before the threads bind at the bottom of the hole. I think the issue is that the HEL fitting is threaded right to the end whereas some fittings have an unthreaded section just before the flared end of the pipe.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5803/3...3e4b4b7453.jpgBrake M/C to Servo lines by marlinpeter, on Flickr

To solve this issue I've made up this short adapter but its not a very eloquent solution and not very mechanically strong. (By now I was wishing I bought separate fittings and ran the lines in Knufer pipe.)

https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5509/2...81e31149b4.jpgBrake M/C to Servo lines by marlinpeter, on Flickr

The other idea I've had is to try and carefully file away the last two threads but I'm not sure I can do this without damaging the fitting.

Any other suggestions welcome!

cheers, Peter

Peter

Could you not run the hel pipe to a three way bulkhead connector to allow you to use a goodridge style hose onto the slave and blank one of the outlets on the three way. Car builder solutions sell a three way bulkhead fitting and a blanking fitting for the unused 3rd outlet.

John

I think as a first thing to try I would ask HEL what they suggest. You never know they might remake with a different fitting for free! It would be good PR for them :-)

Cheers Robin

Robin,
yes, I've taken this photo today to better explain the issue. I've now emailed it to HEL to seek their advice.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5573/3...62eebd14c4.jpgBrake line fitting issue by marlinpeter, on Flickr

John,
your three way bulkhead suggestion would certainly work but maybe it would look a little messy as there are two lines.

thanks, Peter

Well sorry to say this but HEL custom hoses were as useful as a chocolate teapot so I've resorted back to the tried and tested Copper/Nickel brake pipes.
These Goodridge banjo fittings solve the problem of clearance with the ignition coil cover.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5601/3...d0091a0d34.jpgBrake pipes - M/C to Servo by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Brake line routes chosen to work around the heater hoses.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5343/3...dcbd55abc0.jpgBrake pipes - M/C to Servo by marlinpeter, on Flickr

And then down to the remote servo.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5472/3...3b9bec6b14.jpgBrake pipes - M/C to Servo by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Also, way ahead of my needs but a bit of what I call 'armchair building' resulted in this nice VIN plate. It's engraved lettering on brushed stainless steel. I just hope DVSA don't change the requirements before I'm ready for my IVA!!

https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5533/3...cb08f2f214.jpgVIN Plate by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Next up will be the clutch hydraulic line from M/C to slave cylinder.


...peter

Well it may have been some hassle and involved some avoidable expense but in the end the solution you have come up with works well and to my eye looks better than the original Hel approach, copper / nickel sort of looks right on the Sabre.

John

Thanks John, with hindsight, I think you are so right. From now on,I'll be sticking to traditional parts where possible.

I've now completed the clutch hydraulic line from the clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder.

I've used a new Febi clutch slave cylinder and a HEL flexi hose. The short fixed pipe and bracket are from the BMW donor.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5461/3...a5b9bfd662.jpgClutch Slave cylinder by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Clutch Slave cylinder fitted. I need BMW locknuts as the studs are quite short.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5538/3...bcd8708b4d.jpgClutch Slave cylinder by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Clutch hydraulic line made up from 6mm microbore copper pipe.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5321/3...c8ced9564e.jpgClutch M/C to slave line by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Clutch line routed to bracket fixed to body tub.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5518/3...4e8a968bf4.jpgClutch M/C to slave line by marlinpeter, on Flickr

But I wasn't happy with the routing of the front brake line so I have remade it.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5669/3...21f3bcdce5.jpgBrake M/C to servo - v2 by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Clutch hydraulic reservoir mounted. The ali bracket came with the reservoir but it's a bit flimsy so I will probably remake from steel.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5474/3...5786f2d321.jpgClutch Reservoir by marlinpeter, on Flickr

I will drill the hole for the fluid hose the next time the engine is removed.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5462/3...f7d6e53055.jpgClutch Reservoir by marlinpeter, on Flickr

Well that will be all for now, for a couple of weeks whilst I catch up on some other projects....

....peter

Front brake caliper refurb
 

These are the brake calipers that came with the Sabre. They show signs of being refurbished before but don't show any signs of any major rust pits, so I've decided to refurbish them myself. The brown colour is a mixture of gold paint and surface rust.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5762/3...2e5ce640f1.jpgFront bake caliper refurb by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5559/3...629a5842ba.jpgFront bake caliper refurb by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The brake caliper pistons look like new items when the calipers were refurbished back in 1995. All rubber seals will be replaced but the pistons look re-usable.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/6/5321/3...a272a1d04b.jpgFront bake caliper refurb by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

These are calipers after paint stripping, derusting and wire brushing. They have been oiled with 3in1 oil to stop them rusting again before I paint them. At this stage I've left the pistons, bleed niplles and the old hoses in place to stop dirt getting inside the calipers chambers.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5696/3...1c1ac89c02.jpgFront bake caliper refurb by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr
(the strange brown colour is a trick of the camera and flourescent lights)

Caliper carriers. The top one has been cleaned up. The remaining black paint wouldn't shift with the paint stripper so I had to use wire brushes in a drill.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/6/5541/3...8638baf045.jpgFront bake caliper refurb by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

I saw this tip on the internet and it worked a treat! It's a car air pump inflatable adapter which you just push into the cut off old flexi hose. A little compressed air and the cylinder just pops out with no effort.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5698/3...0ab3aa94de.jpgFront Brake Caliper rebuild by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Piston popped out without any issues.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5585/3...ee70acbf9f.jpgFront Brake Caliper rebuild by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The caliper pistons came up looking like new after a quick clean up with very fine wire wool and oil.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/6/5664/3...785cfc0226.jpgFront Brake Caliper rebuild by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

The Sabre's boot makes good temporary spray booth.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5718/3...cb03ae1c3b.jpgFront Brake Caliper rebuild by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

Brake caliper rebuild kits purchased from Brakes International.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5829/3...c79ab6e533.jpgFront Brake Caliper rebuild by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

After finishing painting and leaving for a few days for the paint to harden, i fitted the new seals and rubber parts. The service kits came with assembly grease and all parts fitted perfectly.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5450/3...dcc978e399.jpgFront Brake Calipers by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5625/3...9ae5c74242.jpgFront Brake Calipers by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

And finally, the brake caliper carriers painted and new 10.9 bolts ready for fitting.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5538/3...0693bf5b4e.jpgFront Brake caliper carriers by Sabrebuilder, on Flickr

There now all wrapped up in a shoe box ready for fitting.... Quite a lot of messy work and time but much more satisfying than buying refurb'd calipers.

...peter

Looking good!

Job well done, as no one could do it better than yours elf.

should have been SELF. sorry.