I have Mikuni carbs on some of my Triumph motorcycles. Very hard to set up as they are known to wear out the slides. Triumph swapped to Kliens but they are much more expensive 2nd hand.

Picked up another future project this week.


https://i.imgur.com/m1ye4coh.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/qWV0EAsh.jpg


It looks like it has Ford Escort Mk11 running gear, engine is missing but the chassis appears factory made so it'll do for some thing. :becky:

That is a Dutton Phaeton Series 3 - I’m sure you already knew that. I built one in the early 1980s. They are simple things. You are correct, it uses Escort Mk1 or 2 parts. The front suspension uses the strut cut down, Austin Maxi ball joints, Dutton’s own upper wishbones and spring/damper units.
I will be watching this project with interest.

Got yet another project !!:becky:

https://i.imgur.com/4EfQxTzh.jpg

GTM Rossa K3, powered by a standard "K" series 1.4

This one is registered correctly and complete but unused for several years.
I think I'll just give is a quick once over, sort things out, MOT it and pass it on.

Any one interested !!:rofl:

Been playing with the 3D printer again.

Before.

https://i.imgur.com/bUAjnk8h.jpg

After.

https://i.imgur.com/KqgmHeLh.jpg

At the moment I'v left it red as the car's going to be red but that might change.:suspicious:

I'v spent many hours trying to get this jaguar engine to run on the bike carbs set-up but failed.
No matter what I do or try I just can't seem to make any progress :eusa_wall:
The engine will start and run but nothing like it should.:icon_sad:

I'v now had a re-think on the whole system.
I modified a distributor from a BMW which turns the correct way and has a mechanical advance.

https://i.imgur.com/sr982fVh.jpg

I have removed the bike carbs and replaced them with a home-made manifold set-up using a pair of CD175 carbs that I had lying around the workshop.

https://i.imgur.com/6i3EHVRh.jpg

The engine now starts off the key and runs but much better!!:bounce:
The engine will run reasonably well and will rev but only if the choke is 1/2 way out.
As I'v stripped checked and cleaned the carbs, I now think this is down to wrong jets as I think these CD175 carbs where originally fitted to a Triumph TR4 engine.

It's not yet perfect but I now feel like I'm making progress in the right direction. :rockon:

Still haven't sorted the carbs but I did find a pair of bonnet louver on E-Bay.

https://i.imgur.com/YSwHq2gh.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oC4e5q0h.jpg

Not perfect but at £40 the pair I'm pleased. :bounce:

I finally got around to fitting the petrol filler in the moulded hump as per the original.

https://i.imgur.com/6LAnuw9h.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/P0XxsRlh.jpg

I simply routed two lengths of 50mm stainless steel pipe which were plumped to the original Scimitar tank inlet using three 90% silicone bends.

https://i.imgur.com/RAa1Ecch.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OlP3ZwDh.jpg

The hatch that cover this rear end will now need to be trimmed to fit.
I was going to bond the cover on permanently, fill and smooth out the gaps around it but now think it will look better and be more practicable if it's removable as per the original "D" type. :becky:

Beware Blowback!
 

Supporting Evidence
 

Looking good Micky1Mo - just sent you a private message about this project

With that in mind I think my first fill at the pumps will be done with a little caution. :whistle:

Although the rear "hatch" serves no purpose I wanted to keep it accessible for maintenance issues so I fixed 2 x 10m treaded bolts to the rear of the chassis.

.https://i.imgur.com/NpMIAmnh.jpg

I stuck some masking tape inside the rear hatch cover roughly where the bolt should protrude.

.https://i.imgur.com/aPAUM2ch.jpg

I then held the hatch firmly in the appropriate position so the bolt ends would leave a mark on the masking tape showing where to drill the holes.

https://i.imgur.com/jP0cj2yh.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/IMuq45gh.jpg

Holes drilled I put a pair of holding nuts on the inside so the hatch would rest against them and a pair of external nuts fixing the hatch in place.

https://i.imgur.com/vbsJ08gh.jpg

With a little adjustment it should fit reasonably well, the holding nuts will disappear under or around the rear number plate but it can be remove easily for access. :becky:


nut

I'm still having problem getting this car running without spending a fortune on carbs and manifold. :frusty:

So I'v decided to try a very simple approach.

I'll use the original intake manifold.
Block off all unwanted holes.
Fabricate a mounting for a twin choke weber carburettor from a 3lt engine.
Remove the throttle body and bolt the carburettor and mounting in it's place.

The first attempt.

https://i.imgur.com/F5yX8Clh.jpg

I soon realized the carburettor was in the wrong position so made another one.

https://i.imgur.com/3wY1msph.jpg

I'll bolt it on the manifold in the morning, hopefully it'll fit OK.. :pray:

Looking good :)
Do you plan to glass in a couple of washers to the hatch (inside and outside), once you are happy with the fit, to spread the load and give you a flat, upright face for the bolts to sit against, just the right size for the threaded bar?

K

That's the plan, I was going to finish with a pair of chrome dome nuts on the outside.

This is what I was trying to achieve with the manifold.

https://i.imgur.com/i2LsGS9h.jpg

As simple salutation costing less than £100 to complete but, it's air tight and hopefully it'll run reasonable well. :icon_rolleyes:

Worth a try ! You might find the outer cylinders run a bit weak as the mixture has to travel a long way from the carb. The old carb Essex V6 was fitted with a deflector plate in the manifold to encourage the mixture to flow to the outer ports.

Now the manifold is fitted it doesn't look to odd.

https://i.imgur.com/9zXD5lnh.jpg

I'll just have to wait and see if it works. :madgrin:

I plumed in the fuel line, flipped the key and BANG, IT FIRED UP, RAN AND REVED AS IF IT WAS MADE FOR IT !!!:rockon::rockon::rockon:

I'll take a video clip later !!! :director: