Marlin Swirl Pot
 

What is the suggested order of the 4 fuel pipe connections to the swirl pot. Is the swirl pot just a single volume tin can or is it cleverer than that and subdivided. If it's the former I guess the order doesnt matter too much so if the connectors are numbered 1 to 4, bottom to top then prehaps I could connect up as follows:-
1 - feed from the tank via the low pressure pump
2 - feed out to high pressure pump and fuel rail
3 - return to the tank
4 - return of unused fuel from the fuel rail

Would that work or am I over simpifying it.??

Thanks for your thoughts

Nigel

If you add a sump to your fuel tank you can do away with a swirl pot............

As far as I know, it's a single volume.

Due to this, I have the low pressure feed and return to the top two outlets, the top most being the return to the main tank, and the one below it being the feed. The lowest outlet feeds the fuel filter and the high pressure pump, the next one up is the return from the fuel pressure regulator at the end of the fuel rail.

http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/Gooster...rlpothoses.jpg

As you can see, I cut the mounting tabs off the pot and fitted it on the 'cool' side of the engine bay, to avoid running fuel lines near the exhaust manifold.

http://www.greatoldone.co.uk/Gooster...d_Again_2.html

I did something very similar to the GOO.
I think my output to the high pressure pump was the lowest outlet so it always has fuel.

I mounted it on the same side as Jason but upside down to avoid cutting off the mounting tab.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/peters-...57594447011861

I mentioned to Mark that I had done this and he didn't seem to think this would work. Apparently, at one time the tanks had some baffles but mine didn't and works fine this way up. It makes more sense to me to mount it the 'inlet side' of the engine.

I did the same as peterux for a 5EXi swirl pot. :)

I dont want to hijack this thread my question is relevant ...... The high pressure fuel pump looks to be the same as I have on the 5EXi, what current rating and fuse do you have fitted for the HP fuel pump??

Cheers
Steve

I've got both fuel pumps running off a 15 amp fuse.

You mean one single fuse?

I had both pumps on a 15A fuse but it kept blowing,
so now I have the front on a 15A, and the old feed for the HP activating a relay,
the HP will pop a 20A fuse by itself, but not a 25A. It seems a little high to me. so I might have a faulty HP pump.

Thanks for the info

Yep - both of a single fuse. No problems so far.

Electric motors (in general) take much more current when they are heavily loaded culminating in a HUGE amount when they are stalled. Is your HP pump pumping into a very restrictive fuel system? (Small return for example) It's either that or the mechanical side of the pump side is b*ggered - but then I would expect problems from the engine itself (fuel starvation for example).

Robin

PS - I run both pumps from whatever the standard BMW fuse was - as I remember 15A.

I wouldnt say it was restrictive, but it does have a pressure regulator, this may be faulty I dont know. The return pipes are 8mm ID.
Its from a seat leon 1.8T 20v cupra.

I started with a 15A and that was fine, then it popped, and over time its is requireing a higher fuse to stop it popping.

If it's getting worse over time, I'd say there's some sort of build up of resistance in the lines somewhere.

Have you tried changing the filter? Maybe it's clogged up and causing the pump to draw more power to overcome the decreased flow...

Not change the filter will have a look. The egine has only run about 2 tanks of fuel max, didnt expect the filter to get clogged that quickly.

Just a thought. Have you by any chance used silicone anywhere at all in the fuel system or tank. Petrol and silicone do not mix and the result is gunge which blocks the system.

No silcon, just aluminium, copper and rubber :)

For further reference I'm running a Walbro 255 and stock Rover pump (in parallel)through a 20amp fuse, and have never had any bother.

Just to update everyone,
I found the problem with my high current draw.
A dead FPR, a new VW was in about £50 mark so I got an aftermarket, adjustable with fluid gauge, for £32 from ebay.

Seems to work ok, its also fixed a few other problems I had repoerted like running rich, black smoke, so this coudl been the cause for a lot of my issues during building. :)

I think it all works now, but havnt run it up to much as my engine is caked in fiberglass dust, which I dont want to bake on.
I now back down to a 10A fuse dedicated for the fuel pump.

Think I need to take the time and give my engine a vacuum ;)