Marlin Berli hard top head lining
 

I want to get the hard top for my Marlin Berlinetta ready to fit for the winter. trouble is it is raw glass fiber inside and hand painted gloss black on the outside.

So I was wondering about flocking the inside and spray vinyl on the outside (after a lot of rubbing down).

Anyone tried flocking with a puffer bottle onto wet glue... seems that is the method... I do have a powder coating gun but not sure if it can be used for this purpose.

In the 70's I remember you could buy spray on vinyl roof but it seems to be unavailable now.

Any ideas or help on either finish appreciated.

Any one got any thoughts on this?

I worked it out for myself eventually, I used thin carpet and contact adhesive for the headliner and will be using dark grey bumper paint for the vinyl looky-likey.

From the underwhelming response to my inquiry I guess this forum is mainly for people building current kits rather than reworking and running older ones.....

Well most of us don't have experience of doing what you asked... The Marlin Owners site may have been a better place to post as it has a dedicated Berlinetta section.

I am about to put together an MX250. My plan for a headlining is to use the roof as a mould, laminate about 4oz of GTP onto it. Once removed, trim, upholster with 5mm foam backed vinyl then insert back under the hard top. Nit sure how it will stay up yet, the roll cage will help. I will make that bit up later.
I dont want to stick straight to the roof as I want an air gap for insulation
Only just seen yr post, dont usually get this far up the index!

Sounds interesting, I look forward to seeing the photo's:eusa_whistle:

I will say that the marlin members gave me some pointers but most seemed to think I will end up wearing the head lining:icon_frown:
Time will tell I guess.

Heres my headlining laminated on top of the roof...
[IMG]http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...-00-16_351.jpg[/IMG]

And nearly trimmed up...[IMG]http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/g...1351882010.jpg[/IMG]

The sides are flat, so will be 6mm ply or MDF. It will be spaced about 20mm away from the roof so should fit, as the sides are tapered.
All will be covered in 5mm foam backed vinyl.

Very clever! I look forward to the next installment....

Whilst on the subject of installments, I fitted the hard top yesterday, that was fun as the top had obviously been fitted to a vehicle other than my one previously so none of the holes lined up.
I will be making up two tapped plates for future fitting of soft and hard tops as my arms do not seem to bend in the right places for doing up nuts in the corners of the boot space. :ohwell:

Hi, I became fed-up with grovelling for, and dropping, a few M6 nuts and washers. I have inserted rivnuts now that line up with the hood mounting strip and the hard top. It makes swaps much faster.
The GRP is quite thick in places so longer rivnuts were needed. I always fix them slowly and do not allow them to crush the GRP using the great little tool from memfast. I also liberally coat the otside of the rivnuts in Araldite to completely bond them to the GRP panel once fitted. As one is encouraged to lightly oil the threads when using the Memfast tool, there is no chance of bunging up the rivnut thread with the Araldite.
Nothing has come loose yet so it has worked for over ten years so far.
My new task is to fit some air exhausts because I have now an own-design heater which uses fresh air from a scoop. The hard top is almost a hermetic seal which prevents the throughflow of air from the heater. I am experimenting with Mk 1 Cortina C post vents at the moment. This snag didn't emerge with the soft top as it leaks air (and occasional water) everywhere.

Now that is worth noting, there are 3 nice stainless nuts somewhere deep in the rear tub, I bet they will rattle :ohwell:

I have the tool and the long series inserts, first job next spring then! I was wondering whether it was a possible fix :smile: