Running plates
 

Hi all
Does anyone have any pics/tips for fitting the Marlin-supplied 'Sportster' running plates and bars?
Thanks
Tim

Sorry, Tim, I don't have those on my Sporster, so can't help.

...peter

What do you mean by 'running plates'? The exhaust guards?

Yes, the exhaust guards (although they only seem to cover about half the width of the exhaust)

Tim - I fitted mine using rivnuts into the chassis.

On one end of the bars you'll see an angled foot which conforms to the chassis where it tapers back over the suspension arms. I aligned the front edge of that foot with the weld line where it begins to taper.

Then it's just a case of deciding how high up you want them, and then getting it level before marking up and drilling holes. I believe mine are just below the door sill. Obviously they need to be hight enough to clear the rubber mounting bobbin the exhaust hangs from.

Once you have it looking good on one side, wash rinse and repeat for the other. :)

Thanks Jason.
Did you attach the plate to the bar (I seem to recall some pics where it had been pop-riveted) or simply to the chassis? And presumably you had to shape the plate to match the curve of the bar?

I haven't put the plates on yet, as I was told that they wouldn't pass SVA dur to the sharp edges left by the laser cut logo, but yes, you have to cut them to fit the shape of the supporting bar.

I believe you are supposed to pop rivet them on to the bar - each plate has a 90 degree bend down it's long side to stop it from flexing, which I guess you could use to attach it to the chassis rail once you've trimmed the plate to fit.

I'm not going to do that - mainly due to the fact that the top edge of the bobbin mount and the stainless hardware that hold it on to the Gooster would interfere with the plate at that point.

I've seen them welded on which looks quite nice :)

Thanks guys.
So running plates now fitted:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33105452@N05/4305915833/

For future reference, the procedure I used was:
1. Test fit bar, filing out rear wheel arch where necessary. I set it so that the plate sits on top of the suspension mounting lug, just resting on the bar.
2. Drill and rivnut the 3 M6 fixing holes. Attach bar.
3. Test fit plate (straightening it out if necessary, both mine were curved despite the flange), cut back the flange where it interferes with the suspension lug and exhaust mounting bolts. (Power file was great here!)
4. Drill 4 M5 holes in the flange (allow enough space to get a screwdriver to the front one once its in place). Mark these holes on the chassis.
5. Remove bar.
6. Drill holes and rivnut the 4 mounting points for the plate.
7. Reattach bar. Attach plate.
8. Mark where you need to trim the plate.
9. Remove plate. Trim. Refit.
10. Work out how to attach the bar to the plate. I haven't done this yet as the plate sits pretty much on the bar anyway.

Total time: Well the second one took 3 hours and was much quicker :)

Nice. I see you're busy fitting aero screens as well... :D

How are you managing to keep your fingers from freezing up out in the garage? I went out to do some work and came in after 5 mins as it was bloody freezing!

I'm getting a space heater tomorrow. That way I can got some work done (which I need to do if I'm going to turn up in the gooster at stoneliegh this year!)

The oil heater in my garage has packed up so yes it was a bit on the chilly side!
Hoping I can make stoneleigh myself this year but we'll have to see...