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Tribute Automotive Builds Discuss your Tribute kit build |
15th September 2015, 12:40
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Swansea
Posts: 803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobilerobbie
if it works I would like 4 sets, depending price
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How many sets would you like if they don't work?
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15th September 2015, 13:08
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Join Date: Nov 2011
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If they don't work then I assume they will be cheaper so probably want more of them...
:-)
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19th September 2015, 21:50
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: MK
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Rear end refit today, to get things aligned and in place for paint.
Also had a go at getting door mechanism working on passenger side.
DSCN4748 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN4751 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN4754 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN4756 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN4759 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN4760 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN4761 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN4762 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN4764 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN4766 by eric holm, on Flickr
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20th September 2015, 05:13
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
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Eric - Can you talk us through what is required to get the door mechanism to work?
Do the mods required depend on your choice of door handle?
Overall, you do seem to be progressing very nicely.
Good luck, Paul.
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20th September 2015, 05:52
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Paul L - for the door mods i am using a standard mini handle and it has a bullet type piece of plastic that pokes out when the handle button is pressed. This hits the 41mm x 35mm 'strike' plate that you see I have bolted on to the door working on the pictures in my previous post.
As you can see I had to open up the hole a little bigger to be able to get access to secure the strike plate, I did all this from the outside of the door without taking any of the interior trim off.
So the strike plate pushes inwards and opens the door.
The mini handle is attached to the new door skin that covers the outer part of the door and just bolts on like a veneer piece.
No idea about other door handles, as only using Mini ones, sorry.
I hope this all makes sense.
It's gonna be a nice day again today so will continue efforts, my todo list on this build in much smaller now and fits on one page in my note book. Yay!
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20th September 2015, 06:30
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Join Date: Nov 2014
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I would suggest you drill a large hole through the inners of the doors metal, opposite the small holes required to fit the doorhandel, this way you can bond on and screw the door into place prior to paint.
Then after paint you can screw the mini handle from the inside onto the door....
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20th September 2015, 06:56
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: MK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mobilerobbie
I would suggest you drill a large hole through the inners of the doors metal, opposite the small holes required to fit the doorhandel, this way you can bond on and screw the door into place prior to paint.
Then after paint you can screw the mini handle from the inside onto the door....
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Hi, yes that's a good point, however, I expect the door skin to be removed for prepping and painting, especially as the surface of the skin can be seen through the bottom of the window right, so this would be impossible to finish and spray in position?
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20th September 2015, 19:03
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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Boot switch and Power/usb/cig lighted socket in boot
DSCN4768 by eric holm, on Flickr
Bump stops and Small bonnet fixing
DSCN4774 by eric holm, on Flickr
Sits at right height now
DSCN4777 by eric holm, on Flickr
Drivers door being fitted:
DSCN4779 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN4780 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN4781 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN4782 by eric holm, on Flickr
All fitted now, but terrible alignment, professional help is needed
DSCN7816 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN7828 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN7833 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN7836 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN7837 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN7839 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN7842 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN7845 by eric holm, on Flickr
DSCN7847 by eric holm, on Flickr
cont...
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20th September 2015, 19:04
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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20th September 2015, 19:36
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WOW, Eric car looks great! Such a detailed build thread, awesome work.
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20th September 2015, 19:55
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Swansea
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Nice job Eric and great to see you galloping towards the finishing post. I like your choice of tyre size as they fill the wheel arches and give the right stance.
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20th September 2015, 21:26
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Brilliant job and very selfless of you to document it so thoroughly so others can follow.
Top man, great car!!
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21st September 2015, 16:33
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jones
WOW, Eric car looks great! Such a detailed build thread, awesome work.
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Thanks!
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21st September 2015, 16:35
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: MK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y cymro
Nice job Eric and great to see you galloping towards the finishing post. I like your choice of tyre size as they fill the wheel arches and give the right stance.
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Thanks but finishing post Is a fair distance away yet. It's going to be all about the detail for me.
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21st September 2015, 16:37
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: MK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smash
Brilliant job and very selfless of you to document it so thoroughly so others can follow.
Top man, great car!!
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Thanks, I gained from shared knowledge, only right I should contribute.
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21st September 2015, 18:38
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 78
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HI
Great progress, enjoy driving it, don,t worry about getting it perfect yet or the project will stall
Re alignment
I have used horse box catches at the bottom of the bonnet to pull the lower bonnet into line with the sill
WIN_20150721_121905.jpg
WIN_20150921_193233.jpg
WIN_20150921_193238.JPG
Less than £20.00 on flea bay and easy to fit, require L shaped brackets to be riveted to the sill
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21st September 2015, 21:07
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plastic Porsche
HI
Great progress, enjoy driving it, don,t worry about getting it perfect yet or the project will stall
Re alignment
I have used horse box catches at the bottom of the bonnet to pull the lower bonnet into line with the sill
Attachment 2893
Attachment 2894
Attachment 2895
Less than £20.00 on flea bay and easy to fit, require L shaped brackets to be riveted to the sill
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Hi Bill,
Thanks for images, actually a bit of 'flap' on that section would help as I get problems when opening the door fully as it pushes on that bottom edge, I've adjusted the door skins so they are as far back as possible, actually they stick a little when opening the door on the back section. Also I have pulled the front section as far forward as possible and even shimed it, so have a huge gap between door and front section, you can literally drive a bus through and it still doesn't clear. Also moved front section spring latches as far back as possible to try and push front section far toward as possible.
Then there is the height of the door and the front section, both doors are considerably higher that the front section, but must be sitting right as the bottom of the doors have a good size gap that I would expect.
So not sure, other than giving to someone who can sort it for me.
Don't get me wrong it doesn't have to be perfect, but I like the word 'Reasonable'. Currently it's not reasonable.
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23rd September 2015, 11:17
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericholm
Hi Bill,
Thanks for images, actually a bit of 'flap' on that section would help as I get problems when opening the door fully as it pushes on that bottom edge, I've adjusted the door skins so they are as far back as possible, actually they stick a little when opening the door on the back section. Also I have pulled the front section as far forward as possible and even shimed it, so have a huge gap between door and front section, you can literally drive a bus through and it still doesn't clear. Also moved front section spring latches as far back as possible to try and push front section far toward as possible.
Then there is the height of the door and the front section, both doors are considerably higher that the front section, but must be sitting right as the bottom of the doors have a good size gap that I would expect.
So not sure, other than giving to someone who can sort it for me.
Don't get me wrong it doesn't have to be perfect, but I like the word 'Reasonable'. Currently it's not reasonable.
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The door issue is probably down to the fact that the door skin is quiet some way further out from the door pivot point so that its arc, when opening, is that much more exaggerated compared to the original door, not a huge amount but enough to have an issue on opening versus door shut lines.
I've no solution without seeing the car in the flesh, other than maybe taking a couple of mm off of the rear of the skin to even up the shut lines.
Just wondered how the other SWB builders, Chris and Richard have overcome this issue.
Wondering if it would be a better option going forward for Chris to alter the front clip so that the rear section finishes higher up the panel as per the Cobra, thus making it easier to open the door whilst at the same time getting rid of the variable shut lines along the bottom? Not exactly 'replica' changes I know and the front vent would need shortening. Just an idea.
I would seal and smooth over the rear sill to rear clip area as well which is in keeping with the original.
See below for a Photoshopped example.
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23rd September 2015, 13:17
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Oxon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plastic Porsche
...I have used horse box catches at the bottom of the bonnet to pull the lower bonnet into line with the sill ... Less than £20.00 on flea bay and easy to fit, require L shaped brackets to be riveted to the sill
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Can you post a link please.
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