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Marlin 5exi builds Calling all you sexi builders....sorry 5exi builders, show us your progress. |
23rd August 2006, 14:33
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john,
it was the petrol long shaft . it also happened to me in the early days...
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23rd August 2006, 14:38
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Geeze my heads hurting!
So by changing the short shaft to a diesel one, that should stop the shaft (long petrel one) from popping?
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23rd August 2006, 23:51
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Yes, I think thats it John.
WHY hasn't Mark/Marlin said this???
I get quite wound up by several issues that have popped up. It's like the R+D is done by customers, not by Marlin!!!
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24th August 2006, 06:57
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I don't think Marlin had there Turbo for very long. So I don't think Marlin knew about the driveshaft issue. After Marlin dismantaled there's they never built another one and was not recommending it to there customers.
Just a quicky. The short diesel driveshaft (I'm getting my head round it now ) Is it from a mk2 or mk3 200 diesel?
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24th August 2006, 09:05
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AFAIK short diesel shaft has same part number for both mk2 and mk3 models.
BUT get a new assembly from rover. ensure part number is R0123L (shaftec part number).
we'll finish the engine mounts and the rest of the install over the weekend.
i'll post results + pics then.
HTH,
John
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24th August 2006, 09:09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marlinturbo
we'll finish the engine mounts and the rest of the install over the weekend.
i'll post results + pics then.
John
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Cheers John. Look forward to seeing how it all looks and lines up.
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24th August 2006, 20:14
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driveshafts
I originally had long turbo shaft and short turbo shaft . after a problem with the longer shaft popping out I changed to diesel long shaft. the car was ok until I drove it round a track which broke the cage on the outer cv of the short shaft. the current setup is back to original turbo long driveshaft having moved the engine as far right as it will go. it has not been tested on a track yet but so far so good.
brian
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24th August 2006, 23:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grant620
Yes, I think thats it John.
WHY hasn't Mark/Marlin said this???
I get quite wound up by several issues that have popped up. It's like the R+D is done by customers, not by Marlin!!!
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Sounds familiar - building a K20A2 engined car is taking me ages, as I'm doing a number of things myself (3 of the 4 engine mounts for starters). So far the only thing that has fitted in the engine bay is the offside engine mount, all the other engine bay components don't fit / work. Not a problem as such, as I'm enjoying the project, but it's certainly going to take me longer than I first envisaged.
Oh, just to keep things on topic, sorting driveshafts for the type-r version hasn't been a smooth process. Mine have just gone back to the manufacturer, as they are wrong on a number of counts.
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25th August 2006, 06:49
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Hi Brian.
So are you running with both short and long driveshaft from turbo?
Not sure if there's a difference but you used a 800 donor where as John/Trev used a 400 and I and some others used a 200. Might mean diffferent driveshaft lengths.
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26th August 2006, 00:57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limpabit
they never built another one and was not recommending it to there customers.
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Probably not a bad thing...
I wonder how long before some K20 owners SC their cars and suddenly the K20 option is not recommended...
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2nd September 2006, 13:17
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B*!?*!3$ Driveshafts
Hi everyone,
Thought I was sorted, had the car on the road for a month and everything was going so well.....................
Then One surprise follows another, on the 18th August I celebrated my second heart attack, thanks to the skills of Dr Julian Strange I survived.
A day later and my son thought it was safe to push the pedal to the metal bang another short driveshaft bites the dust, mind you at least this time it did not puncture nice ventilation holes in the gearbox.
So now I'm in the market for a new 'short' shaft.
Can I just add a thanks for the earlier notes regarding new mounts, I'll send an email to Terry.
I'm finding the 200 bhp real fun, but interested in what increases are available, possible head mods and piston changes?
Is yours still available Craig?
Regards to all builders
Trev
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2nd September 2006, 19:16
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driveshafts
Quote:
Originally Posted by limpabit
Hi Brian.
So are you running with both short and long driveshaft from turbo?
Not sure if there's a difference but you used a 800 donor where as John/Trev used a 400 and I and some others used a 200. Might mean diffferent driveshaft lengths.
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I am currently running 200 turbo long and short shaft. I have driven car quite hard without any problems!!!! The only niggle is a slight vibration under accelleration between 20-30 mph. I am sure this is down to the tight angle of the short shaft. I have added an additional stabiliser to gearbox and also a tension cable laterally from chassis to engine like i saw on Marks demo turbo.
Brian
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8th September 2006, 08:02
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Well it happened today. It's first go under it's own steam. Long driveshaft popped at the inner joint (orginial turbo drive shaft).
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8th September 2006, 09:09
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and just to add even more heartache i went out today and one of the driveshafts sounds as tho its knackered....so thats 150 miles and dead driveshaft.........not happy.
it's time to drop the car off at marlin.
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8th September 2006, 22:45
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Sorry to hear about the recent failures - I heard the Rover 200 Coupe race cars had shaft difficulties, but I thought the Marlin being that much lighter might be a bit softer on the shafts........ although the angle can't help.
Are all turbo builders experiencing failure at the gearbox end, or are there instances of the outer CV packing up as a result of the input angle?
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9th September 2006, 07:16
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The Dreaded Driveshaft
Hi Guys,
Yes it is odd how the shaft always pulls out at the 'box' end. Jon (Limpabit has just pulled his long driveshaft for the first time. He and I recently spent an hour or two discussing the options. I really do not mind lashing out on these items, since starting my build I guess I have spent around £500. But enough is enough and now I want one that is going to do the job permanently.
As far as it goes, a friend has added 20mm on to my short driveshaft, the join looks good but we'll have to see what happens when it tries to handle the power. The good news is if it works we will at last have a difinitive answer to the problem.
If this shaft does not pull out, I intend to ask one of the specialist manufacturers to make one of this size.
Regards
Trev
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9th September 2006, 07:41
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Hi everyone.
I've been scratching heads with Trev and John (Marlin Turbo).
There's 1 difference between mine and Trev's. I have tilted my engine (found out the MGf also has it's engine tilted). It might mean different configurations for dfferenyt builders. John (Marlin turbo) said Turbo long shaft and diesel short shaft. But as mine has pulled, it looks like I will need the diesel lomg shaft (as this is a bit longer) for my configuration. Can't tell about the short one as Trev said (not sure which one John's got problems with) as this happens when turning left only. But as it stands, the longer of the two shorter ones, Trev's got problems with.
So as Trev's getting his extended, does the 600 or 800 have longer short driveshafts than the 200/400 models?
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9th September 2006, 21:36
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you've been shafted
If you read all the posts on driveshafts it changes direction constantly on the best setup.
I understood that the turbo model used 220 driveshafts, turbo or normally aspirated are the same I think.
I had a problem in the early stages of the long shaft popping out of the inner joint, the cure was thought to be to fit a longer shaft (diesel). This cured the popping out but the real problem was I needed to move the engine further to the right. I only found this problem out after breaking the left hand cv outer cage during hard cornering. The problem is if you fit the longer diesel shaft on the right it tightens the angle of the left hand shaft which is already at it's limit. If it requires modifying engine mounts to move engine across further then do it. I have about 10mm clearance between timing cover and chassis rail and I might even try and reduce this even further.
I also have a stabiliser rod from gearbox to chassis to prevent engine rotating too much and straining the shafts even more.
I still have a problem in that an annoying vibration at 25-35mph under load, I am sure this is due to the angle of the short driveshaft but I'm not certain. I think getting the engine location right for the driveshafts is paramount and would advise all builders to make sure that they use the maximum space available to have the engine as far to the right as possible.
Good Luck
Brian
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10th September 2006, 09:32
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Hi Brian.
Exactly as you describe is I think what has happen to Trev. Has diesel long shaft and broke the shorter petrol shaft during cornering.
My shaft has popped using turbo long shaft.
Just taken some measurements. I have 27mm between timing cover and chassis rail. But to move it to 10mm will not happen. I have only 11mm between chassis and alternator pulley wheel. Maybe the alternator is the difference between the 200 and 800? How much clearance have you got at the alternator Brian?
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11th September 2006, 21:28
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alternator
I have made my own alternator mounting bracket fitted in a different position due to not fitting standard water pump. It fortunately clears chassis rails comfortably.
I have used 214 alternator for cheapness and with standard v belt.
I know Marlin used original configeration on the turbo demonstrater so you would assume it should work!!.
good luck mate
hope to see you at Donny
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