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Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds For Vintage and Classic era kit cars. Post your build reports, problems and progress here |
22nd April 2018, 07:28
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Egham, Surrey
Posts: 1,780
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Here you go, found a spitfire engine for you.
https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/17257/lot/121A/
Might need the stronger dif and a small bonnet bulge.
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24th April 2018, 13:31
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 24
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The chassis look really tidy.
What is the anti-corrosion paint that they use on North Sea oil rig legs that you used?
Something like Corroless?
Thanks
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24th April 2018, 16:10
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,328
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Yep, Corroless it is. No idea if it's going to be any good long-term, but it went on nicely.
I now have a complete 1300 small-crank engine in my garage. It was expensive at £295, but it's the most responsive four-pot motor to tune (they can happily rev to 9000rpm in race tune) and was running immediately before removal from a (Herald) donor. I've stripped it down and it looks like it just needs a decoke and a lick of paint for the time being before going into the chassis. It'll probably get some power parts once the car's been on the road for a while.
I also bought a 3 synchro gearbox for a pound and a 1500 block complete with a set of unused pistons and lots of other parts for 99p. Bargain.
Before anyone points it out, the Herald 13/60 engine doesn't have the high compression cylinder head or high lift cam that the MkIII Spitfire got, but it's the same block/pistons/crank/etc. When I do get a polished and ported cylinder head for it I'll be able to fit its original 8.5:1 head onto the 1500 block, which will give it a 9.6:1 compression ratio and create a much lazier but torquey motor for another project.
Progress is likely to be a little slow over the next six weeks or so as I have a number of family commitments coming up.
More later.
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28th April 2018, 17:58
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,328
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Task for today: drop Herald engine and gearbox into the Spitfire chassis then see if the bonnet is going to fit without fouling.
First stage, engine and box roughly fitted (just bought a gearbox bracket on ebay so it's just supported by a bit of wood at the mo) -
Then separate the front and rear clamshells and drop the front one over the front of the chassis and support it so that the bottom of the sills is level with the bottom of the chassis -
And from a few more angles -
Doesn't look too promising that last shot...
...but the wheels and gear lever look like they'll be in the right places -
And now for the moment of truth, will the bonnet fit over the engine?
Drum roll...
Success!
The bonnet needs a little fettling to fit, but that's just because the bonnet doesn't quite fit the opening anyway.
The pic's were taken with the carburettors removed though as the front dash pot does just foul the underside of the bonnet, causing the right-hand edge to lift about an inch -
I do have a cunning plan to address that though.
To say I'm happy it's going to fit is something of an understatement, I'm absolutely delighted!
More later.
Last edited by Mister Towed; 28th April 2018 at 18:03..
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28th April 2018, 18:18
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Egham, Surrey
Posts: 1,780
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If you could move the engine back a couple of inches you could probably lower it an inch or so as well.
So annoying when it is so close.
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28th April 2018, 18:56
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,401
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Just put a blister on the interference with the dash pot.
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28th April 2018, 19:06
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,328
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Should be able to get away without needing to move the engine back and also won't be needing a blister or scoop.
Much as I like blisters and scoops, either would look a bit odd on the front of what's supposed to be a rear engined car, and although I'm going for the custom Outlaw racer look, I want the body to look like a modified original as far as possible.
So, one of the most common items added to Outlaw 356's is a through bonnet fuel filler to replace the under bonnet one on standard 356's, so I'll be putting a flip-top filler right over the front carburettor to hide the protruding dashpot.
Job done.
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28th April 2018, 19:16
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Camberley
Posts: 972
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I think a blister would save a lot of angst. And Mr Towed has history in this dept.
Oops you posted in the meantime, good solution though.
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28th April 2018, 20:18
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister Towed
Should be able to get away without needing to move the engine back and also won't be needing a blister or scoop.
Much as I like blisters and scoops, either would look a bit odd on the front of what's supposed to be a rear engined car, and although I'm going for the custom Outlaw racer look, I want the body to look like a modified original as far as possible.
So, one of the most common items added to Outlaw 356's is a through bonnet fuel filler to replace the under bonnet one on standard 356's, so I'll be putting a flip-top filler right over the front carburettor to hide the protruding dashpot.
Job done.
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Best idea!
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29th April 2018, 09:57
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Egham, Surrey
Posts: 1,780
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How about
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-S...8AAOSw2QJa2LKP
Very flat so should give you plenty of clearance. I have a Triumph Trophy 1200 which uses the same 4 carbs, if they run a 1200 bike engine they should with a little adjustment suit the Herald engine. Mine has K&N pod air filters which does look very nice.
I like the idea of the fuel cap but in my mind it would need to be central for it to work. I do like the smooth flowing lines of the bonnet as it is.
Or Weber carb, bit pricey but I'm sure you could source a second hand one.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-MIDGET...QAAOSwrx5UVm5A
Last edited by Jaguartvr; 29th April 2018 at 10:10..
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29th April 2018, 14:45
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Senior Member
Enthusiast
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Reading, Berkshire
Posts: 688
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Looking good so far
I even like the yellow as it is
Dave
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29th April 2018, 15:09
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: norfolk
Posts: 695
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Can you turn the inlet manifold upside-down? to lose the height
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29th April 2018, 15:27
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,058
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Mr T - Good to see part of the body shell on, even if it is just a mock up.
Whilst the fuel cap does appear to be in the centre in these 'Outlaws'...
I am pretty sure wherever you needed it to be fitted would be fine.
It is certainly a clever way of creating a bit of room.
Good luck, Paul.
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29th April 2018, 16:43
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,328
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Interesting ideas, I had already looked at those bike carbs but decided against them as Phil J found that they have to be angled upwards to work so you lose the apparent height advantage.
The Weber will also stick out so far width-ways that it'd foul the inside of the bonnet as it slopes down towards the wing.
I'm pretty sure I can get the SU's under the bonnet one way or another so I'll be sticking with them.
Paul, you're right, I couldn't find an Outlaw 356 with an offset fuel filler when I looked through Google images. Mind you, I couldn't find a Lancia D24 Spyder in silver either...
Task for today was to offer the rear clamshell up to the chassis and work out how much the body needs shortening.
Not sure if I've mentioned it in this thread yet, but although there's only 8mm difference between the wheelbase of the Spitfire (2108mm) and Porsche 356 (2100mm), I managed to buy what is probably a Banham New Speedster body intended to fit on a Rover Metro/100, which is 2270mm.
So, rear clamshell supported over the back end of the chassis at the right height -
Plenty of space in here for a fuel tank and spare wheel -
And with the front clamshell lined up with the front wheels where I want them, you can see the problem -
Oddly it seems that I only needed to shave 110mm out of the body to get the wheels neatly in the arches. I decided that the easiest way to shorten the body would be to take the difference out of the door apertures. I also now believe that's where Paul Banham added the length anyway -
Leaving me with a body that's the right length now -
That's as far as I got today but slow progress is better than no progress at all.
Last edited by Mister Towed; 29th April 2018 at 16:49..
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29th April 2018, 17:25
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Devon
Posts: 551
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That is looking great Towed. Good to see you back. Nice project which I am sure you will enjoy building and driving.
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1st May 2018, 07:53
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Senior Member
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: POOLE , DORSET
Posts: 2,200
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LOOKING VERY POSITIVE SO FAR ...Like the fuel cap idea ...my kind of solution !
I actually prefer the triumph engine solution being a bit of a traditionalist ...makes the whole 8 points thing a bit more obvious too ...
Banham 356 and 550 were definitely stretched doors , I have had both over the years ...
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1st May 2018, 18:43
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,328
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Cheers Gary, yes I'm feeling a lot happier about using the old Triumph lump for a number of reasons, the DVLA registration thing being one of them.
To get around 90 reliable hp out of it is going to blow about a £1500 hole in my budget that I hadn't really bargained on, but hey, you only live once.
I did a lot of surreptitious door measuring of real 356's and Chesil (et al) kit versions at various shows and I didn't find two the same, but they all looked much shorter than what I have, hence the decision to take a hacksaw to them.
Banham kit quality seems to get a lot of stick on the 'net, but mine seems pretty well moulded given the price. Will be getting on with it now the sun's (almost) out and I'm coming out of hibernation.
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9th June 2018, 13:44
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,328
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So, big box of parts arrived from Canley's yesterday so I'll be stripping down my Herald gearbox (ebay, 99p) and starting to rebuild it tomorrow. Should be interesting as I've never rebuilt a gearbox before.
If by some miracle I manage to rebuild the gearbox in a couple of hours I'll also refit the camshaft which has been reground by Piper cams to their 270 fast-road profile.
Timing the cam will have to wait until Canley's supply me with a rebuilt, unleaded cylinder head, which is currently on back-order (I believe they strip and build them to order).
Then with the rest of the day (!!) I might just get on with my work-in-progress rear deck cover -
Which, believe it or not isn't polished mahogany, but cardboard covered in parcel tape!
I also have a few little jobs to sort on a new acquisition for the summer -
...which was a bit too bouncy for my liking on the way home from collecting it, so new shocks are on order and it will also get fresh oil etc. It also has brake and clutch fluid the colour of West Country Scrumpy, so I will be bleeding the hydraulics and pumping fresh Dot 4 through everything before using it on the road again.
More later.
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10th June 2018, 16:55
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,058
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Nice toys.
Obviously I am a big fan of the power blue colour.
Let me know when you have this back on the road and I'll try to finally arrange my much promised trip to Norfolk.
Good luck, Paul.
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16th June 2018, 06:10
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,058
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Mr T - I'm sure you've seen this week's episode, but just in case...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vjVrZiW_Pvs
Good luck, Paul.
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