It really hasn't been my day... - Page 2

GreatOldOne · #21 23rd February 2012, 14:11

Thanks Pete - much appreciated. If I need to prevail on your offer, I'll drop you an IM.

The top rod mount - I wonder what material it's made out of? If I recall, it's just a rod with thread cut at either end. If it's just mild steel, it's probably something I could sort out myself at engineering class. If it's hardned, like a bolt is, maybe not...

peterux · #22 23rd February 2012, 14:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

Thanks Pete - much appreciated. If I need to prevail on your offer, I'll drop you an IM.

The top rod mount - I wonder what material it's made out of? If I recall, it's just a rod with thread cut at either end. If it's just mild steel, it's probably something I could sort out myself at engineering class. If it's hardned, like a bolt is, maybe not...

No problem.

Looks like your top rod has snapped and I stripped the thread on one of mine as the thread was badly cut, so probably just mild steel.

GreatOldOne · #23 23rd February 2012, 15:46

Not snapped - bent in two different directions! To get it out, I'm going to have to chop the top wishbone, and then slide the separate parts off. The eyes look ok, so I may be able to reuse them.

peterux · #24 23rd February 2012, 23:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

........... as I'm not happy with the amount of thread going into the rod ends. If you look at the pics, you'll see that it's only a couple of turns!

Yes, and the fact that the Marlin special welded in extension piece looks like its bent like a bit of old electrical conduit!
But I guess it was whacked by the wheel with 750kg of car behind it and by bending may have prevented less damage to the steering rack and chassis mounting points.

GreatOldOne · #25 24th February 2012, 17:49

I'm down in crediton this weekend, visiting my Mum - If they've got anything stock, I could pick them up whilst I'm down here. I've ent Terry an email....

oaktree11 · #26 25th February 2012, 00:25

GOO,
I think my kit is a sister one to yours. I am in Canada until next week but you can borrow what you like from front and rear suspension if you need it. Although the suspension is on the car its just hanging and not tightened up. I wont be getting to that for yonks.
PM me if needed and we will sort it out. John

Mike · #27 25th February 2012, 12:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by oaktree11

GOO,
I think my kit is a sister one to yours. I am in Canada until next week but you can borrow what you like from front and rear suspension if you need it. Although the suspension is on the car its just hanging and not tightened up. I wont be getting to that for yonks.
PM me if needed and we will sort it out. John

John - that is a really nice gesture/offer.
Knowing Marlin's service levels you might need them back before GOO takes delivery of his replacement bits!!!!

Mike

GreatOldOne · #28 25th February 2012, 14:22

Yes, thanks for the offer, John. I maybe taking you up on it, as I haven't heard back from Terry yet.

oaktree11 · #29 25th February 2012, 15:32

GOO,

No worries, just let me know.

John

GreatOldOne · #30 28th February 2012, 09:41

Back from deepest darkest Devon. Terry didn't have any parts on hand, so I'm going to have to wait for them to make them.

I may need to send my other suspension parts to them as a pattern, as she said they've changed the front suspension again.

In other news, I've started a claim with Adrian Flux. My excess is £150, and as current repair spending is £215 without any figures from Marlin for the Suspension bits or Normandale for the Fibre repair, I guess I may as well see if I can claim as much as I can back.

God knows what it'll do to my premium next year... :/

GreatOldOne · #31 28th February 2012, 16:03

Good news everyone! The Dacia Sande.... No, that's not the news.

It looks as if (no, I have) I've salvaged the bent bumper and the wing stay, so now all I need from Marlin is the top and bottom wishbones.

peterux · #32 28th February 2012, 19:54

Let's hope they don't take too long making some new wishbones

Your steering link 'popping' out of the ball joint got me thinking about what the minimum number of threads should be?

When I recently took my nearside suspension apart and I found I had only 5 threads engaged in the ball joint.

I found the following quote on the web...
" The following rules of thumb are suggested for arriving at reasonable lengths of thread for steel screws used with screwed holes in weaker materials.
For steel a length of thread engagement of at least 1 x Nominal dia's of the thread
For Cast Iron or brass or bronze the thread engagement should be at least 1,5 x Nominal dia's of the thread
For Aluminium , zinc or plastices the thread engagement should be at least 2 x Nominal dia's of the thread "

Any mechanical engineers with us who can advise or have a better set of rules?

I haven't checked the other side of the car yet....

Grey V8 Pete · #33 28th February 2012, 21:40

I have always understood that for steel threads a length equal to the thread diameter was the absolute minimum. This assumes that all parts are new i.e. no wear or corrosion, so for safety maybe 1.5 times the diameter would be good.

Have a look at the following link for the coupling used on the old railway carriages. Note the diameter of the threaded portion. For the first coupling behind the engine this is capable of pulling the weight of the whole train, so how many tons is that!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Ch...ler_detail.jpg

MartinClan · #34 29th February 2012, 07:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterux

Let's hope they don't take too long making some new wishbones

Your steering link 'popping' out of the ball joint got me thinking about what the minimum number of threads should be?

When I recently took my nearside suspension apart and I found I had only 5 threads engaged in the ball joint.

I found the following quote on the web...
" The following rules of thumb are suggested for arriving at reasonable lengths of thread for steel screws used with screwed holes in weaker materials.
For steel a length of thread engagement of at least 1 x Nominal dia's of the thread
For Cast Iron or brass or bronze the thread engagement should be at least 1,5 x Nominal dia's of the thread
For Aluminium , zinc or plastices the thread engagement should be at least 2 x Nominal dia's of the thread "

Any mechanical engineers with us who can advise or have a better set of rules?

I haven't checked the other side of the car yet....

Hmm - when you think about it the thread on a full nut is probably about the same as the diameter of the thread so that would make sense.

Robin

GreatOldOne · #35 29th February 2012, 10:08

Phone call from AF - they're sending out an engineer to take a look at the damage. They've agreed that I can do the work myself and invoice them, so long as the engineer is happy with my assessment of the damage.

Mike · #36 29th February 2012, 13:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

Phone call from AF - they're sending out an engineer to take a look at the damage. They've agreed that I can do the work myself and invoice them, so long as the engineer is happy with my assessment of the damage.

Does that mean you can make a reasonable charge for your time?
If so, normal garage rates are around £90/hour!!

On that basis, my car has cost around £2 million to build so far, and still rising

GreatOldOne · #37 29th February 2012, 16:51

I'm not sure if I can claim for my time - technically I should, as any garage would. Hmmm... A question for Mr Flux I think.

The bumper is definitely OK now - I've just come in from the garage after giving the once over with some sanding flaps and my polishing mops, and you'd be hard pressed to know that it had hit anything. Result.

peterux · #38 29th February 2012, 18:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterux

I haven't checked the other side of the car yet....

I checked the other side tonight and found it was 15 turns to unscrew the track rod end. So I had 5 threads one side and 15 the other. They must have got unbalanced in the lead up to my SVA when I was trying numerous toe-in/out settings to get the self centering to work.
I think I'm going to reset them to 10 threads each side which should give me with the same toe-in setting.

GreatOldOne · #39 29th February 2012, 19:09

I unwound the undamaged side of Vikki as well today - also about two turns.

My rack was seriously undersized!

NigelB · #40 29th February 2012, 21:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreatOldOne

I unwound the undamaged side of Vikki as well today - also about two turns.

My rack was seriously undersized!

Hhmmmmm.

Now where have I come across that before..................................

Aaaaagghhh. I remember.

Front end by MarlinBuild, on Flickr

But sorted with a couple of 50mm extensions from Rally Designs.