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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds

Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build.

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  #41  
Old 29th February 2012, 22:30
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I had the ends of my rack completely replaced with stronger ones IIRC
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  #42  
Old 1st March 2012, 19:41
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My replacement alloys, along with some ratty old tyres turned up today.

I will need to get the old tyres off and take them to be powder coated to match the others, but they look in very good nick - probably in better condition than the ones that have been damaged where before they where refurbed.

The insurance assessor / engineer is visiting tomorrow to take a look at the patient - fingers crossed he says it's ok for me to do the repairs. I can't see why he wouldn't, considering I built it in the first place, and its just a spattering job.

Once he's gone, I'll have the rack off and parcel it up to go up to Kiley Clinton for the new track rods.

Also, John (Oaktree) is coming down to visit tomorrow with a live Marlin organ transplant. I'm expecting flashing lights and everything!
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  #43  
Old 2nd March 2012, 13:08
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Well John is now heading back after dropping off his donor parts and a good old chin wag. What a top bloke!

It was great meeting you, John - look forward to seeing you again. I will need to buy you several beers!
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  #44  
Old 2nd March 2012, 16:05
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And the final piece in the puzzle has been sent off to Brum to be fixed - The steering rack is in the post to Kiley - Clinton.

Cor - it's been non-stop today!
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  #45  
Old 2nd March 2012, 16:17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatOldOne View Post
And the final piece in the puzzle has been sent off to Brum to be fixed - The steering rack is in the post to Kiley - Clinton.

Cor - it's been non-stop today!
What did the man from Adrian Flux have to say?
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  #46  
Old 2nd March 2012, 16:25
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He say yes.

I just need quotes for the wishbones and the fibre repair. Everything else he's got costs for, as I had the invoices to hand for the replacement bits I've got.

He told me that in these cases they usually reimburse me for the total amount on repairs, less the excess. Which is fair enough, considering the total so far, with an estimate £250 for the fibre, but no price yet for the Marlin bits stands at £840...
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  #47  
Old 2nd March 2012, 16:32
denniswpearce denniswpearce is offline
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Wow, you don't hang about do you.
Nice going Jason.
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  #48  
Old 2nd March 2012, 17:43
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did you raise the question of your £90 labour fee
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  #49  
Old 2nd March 2012, 17:52
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Nah. If I did, he'd probably have written her off.
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  #50  
Old 24th March 2012, 16:06
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Guys - Help & Suggestions please!

I've been cleaning up the chassis and new wishbones ready to rebuild, and I've found a MAJOR issue. The top suspension turret welded in rear 'boss' has been bent by a couple of degrees in toward the engine bay - so the top 10mm pin won't slide through!

I've tried to spring it out using a pry bar, but it's not shifting.
I've also tried heating up the sheet metal that it's welded to and then tapped on it with a drift and a big hammer - bit that isn't working either.

I'm not sure that it got that hot (I think my torch is almost out of gas), as I didn't even take the powder coat off. But I'm getting worried that I won't be able to fix this.

I'm going to get some more gas tomorrow, and try again. I may also try using my slide hammer to pull it back into line. I'm not optimistic though.
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  #51  
Old 24th March 2012, 16:55
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Jason

Can you get a 10 dia bar in to the back boss from the rear?
If so, you can then use a piece of scaffold tube to act as a giant lever, and you may be able to move it this way. Be careful as a 6 foot scaffold pole will allow you to exert a hefty force on the 10 dia bar and it could bend/fail, so give yourself plenty of room. You may need much more than mild steel for the bar.
One option would be to buy a socket set extension bar, (decent make) and turn it down at you night classes to the dia. and length you need.

This is a tried and tested method to straighten bent farm machinery!!
Mike
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  #52  
Old 24th March 2012, 17:09
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Jason, if you are going to use heat, (and i think you must) you have to use HEAT! just warming it wont make it much easier to bend.
Sorry to hear about the problem. I will take a look at mine and see if I can suggest anything useful. - John
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  #53  
Old 24th March 2012, 17:18
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Hi Jason,
I was just pondering along the same lines as Mike
If you don't have a scaffold pole, then get a fence post and drill a 10mm hole about 4" from the end (across the post). That'll give you some good leverage. I'd use 10mm bolts as I think socket extensions can be brittle and might suddenly snap. But I do take on board Mikes point that the bolts might just bend before the boss moves. You obviously need something strong but not brittle but I can't think of anything off hand. Maybe a length of 25mm bar with the last 20mm turned down to 10mm?

My favourite 'lever' is my scissor jack but I can't think what to lever it against?
It might be worth alerting your insurance company/assessor first to warn them you might need to get someone in to grind/drill out the old boss and weld a new one in.

...peter
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  #54  
Old 24th March 2012, 18:54
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I think that you just need plenty of heat on it. Steel bends pretty easily but it will need to be red hot. It won't do a lot for the powder coating though...

It one blow torch won't do it then try a second one. Heat is much better than brute force IMHO. If you want a hand or a second brain (well 1/2 a one anyway) I could probably do one evening next week. I am in Beds and you are in Northants as I recall.

Robin
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  #55  
Old 25th March 2012, 19:02
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Well, I've made some progress, but not in the way I thought.

I bought a bigger blow torch, and used it to heat the steel up - got it to a nice cherry red colour after burning the powder coat off. Not that it did much good, as no matter where I heated it, how long I heated it, the bloody thing wouldn't budge, even with big F-off leavers.

Two blow torches (my new big one, and my existing one with a new canister) playing on it whilst I pulled on a lever didn't make any difference either.

So I came to the conclusion that I was going to have to cut the boss off and have re-welded. So I got The angle grinder out, and managed to cut through it parallel with the turret:





having done that, there is still some boss in place - which appears to be straight... As the pin will now slide through with no problems. I can only assume that the boss bent, and the small dent in the surface of the turret that it was welded to was a bit of a red herring.



So, now all I need to do it get a piece of mild steel turned to the correct diameter, 22mm long with a 10mm hole trough the middle. Then I can slide it on the pin and get someone to weld it on for me.

The problem is Engineering class has finished for this Term, so I won't be able to do it. Soooo - can anyone turn me a bit of steel for me? I'm looking at you Patrick.
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  #56  
Old 25th March 2012, 19:37
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Or you could try a call to Terry at Marlin to see if they have one in stock.

Unfortunately I only have simple tools not like you guys who have small workshops so cannot help.
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  #57  
Old 25th March 2012, 21:16
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Hi Jason

Lee(MOC Chairman) has PM'd me through MOC to say he can make you the collar this week if you would like.

Can you contact him via MOC, please?
Mike
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  #58  
Old 25th March 2012, 22:02
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Shall do. Thanks Mike.

Patrick - it looks as if Lee from the MOC can do my turning for me, so you can turn off the lathe for now.
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  #59  
Old 26th March 2012, 17:44
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Just had a chat with Lee on the phone, and he's going to knock me up a replacement collar tomorrow. What a star!

Now all I need to do is remember the name of the mobile welder I had in to do my seatbelt bar...
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  #60  
Old 26th March 2012, 20:14
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So, project back on track, good news!
Did you get a new 10mm pin or is that a bit of John's car?
Is that a steering rack extension I see in the background of the first picture?

...peter
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