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Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build. |
28th September 2015, 20:11
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Jono
Have sent you a PM, with an email address of someone who may still have their servo kit, but no longer intends to fit it.
If you do fit one of these dual servos - whatever the source - and they are well worth it, you must fit a reasonably pedal return spring - Jason used a couple of Landrover springs off ebay (around £4.00) which work very well.
regards
Mike
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6th October 2015, 19:28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
Jono
Have sent you a PM, with an email address of someone who may still have their servo kit, but no longer intends to fit it.
If you do fit one of these dual servos - whatever the source - and they are well worth it, you must fit a reasonably pedal return spring - Jason used a couple of Landrover springs off ebay (around £4.00) which work very well.
regards
Mike
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Did you follow this up Jono?
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13th October 2015, 13:32
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Jono
Did you receive my PM?
Did you follow it up?
Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
Jono
Have sent you a PM, with an email address of someone who may still have their servo kit, but no longer intends to fit it.
If you do fit one of these dual servos - whatever the source - and they are well worth it, you must fit a reasonably pedal return spring - Jason used a couple of Landrover springs off ebay (around £4.00) which work very well.
regards
Mike
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13th October 2015, 19:32
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Slightly off topic but the BMW e60/e61 brake servo's look like pretty neat and compact units.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-5-SERI...-/221679808603
Looking at the pictures and it's construction it looks like it could be a dual diaphragm design. Lot's of used ones on ebay and new ones made by TRW on Amazon.com
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14th October 2015, 23:31
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Interesting spot Peter.
Do you know what diameter they are?
Quote:
Originally Posted by peterux
Slightly off topic but the BMW e60/e61 brake servo's look like pretty neat and compact units.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-5-SERI...-/221679808603
Looking at the pictures and it's construction it looks like it could be a dual diaphragm design. Lot's of used ones on ebay and new ones made by TRW on Amazon.com
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15th October 2015, 12:46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
Interesting spot Peter.
Do you know what diameter they are?
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No, I've not bee able to find any dimensions on-line. Perhaps someone on here has a newish 5 series beemer could get there tape measure out?
I'm not planning on using one or I would have bought one off ebay but I thought it might be of interest to other builders.
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16th October 2015, 17:28
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The squatness of the master cylinder definitely looks a useful feature, even if the diameter of the servo turns out to make it less space friendly in a kit car.
Peter, have you actually already purchased one of those fancy servos designed to be remoted? With something like this you may be able to just use a slave cylinder pushing the input of the servo to get the same effect but at significantly lower cost. I can see this arrangement fitting sideways in the battery box area of the sportster quite nicely making room for the wide heads of an M60/62 engine
Last edited by morris; 16th October 2015 at 17:32..
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20th October 2015, 22:08
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I've just brought my MBM dual servo from Pirate Jack in the USA. I ordered a 7" dual servo, but on receiving it and measuring the overall outside diameter its 8" in diameter not 7". I assume the 7" servo relates to the overall diameter. ? Can anybody advise me ?
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21st October 2015, 08:24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nigbo
I've just brought my MBM dual servo from Pirate Jack in the USA. I ordered a 7" dual servo, but on receiving it and measuring the overall outside diameter its 8" in diameter not 7". I assume the 7" servo relates to the overall diameter. ? Can anybody advise me ?
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Hi Nigel
The MBM 7" Dual Servo is 8" outside diameter: I remember having the same concern when I recieved the first batch!
I can only guess the 7" refers to the internal diaphragm size?
regards
Mike
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21st October 2015, 19:55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morris
Peter, have you actually already purchased one of those fancy servos designed to be remoted?
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Yes, I have bought my Iruna dual circuit remote servo.
I just found the e60 BMW servo looking for something else and thought it might be useful for other builders.
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30th November 2015, 18:34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peterux
No, I've not bee able to find any dimensions on-line. Perhaps someone on here has a newish 5 series beemer could get there tape measure out?
I'm not planning on using one or I would have bought one off ebay but I thought it might be of interest to other builders.
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Hi, I got one of these E60/E61 servos this day just for looking how it looked like - they are quit big - overall diameter is 250 mm/10" but it is almost the same thickness as the Metro - 150 mm
C/C to the bolts for brake cylinder is 102 mm
C/C to the fastener is square 72,5 mm or near....they have M8 bolt on one side and a 9 mm diameter guide peg on the other so outside measurement is 80 mm. Then with a diameter to the part that goes inside as 61,5 mm
I have added some pictures at my Flickr site - https://www.flickr.com/photos/our_ma...57661278726615
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23rd May 2016, 22:10
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Servo Issues
I have now got my black powder coated MBM servo fitted and linked up to the pedal with rose joint and all bolted in place and nicely aligned. I used an endoscope camera to watch it all working! The m/c is not fitted nor the tried with engine running but the pedal action has the initially stickiness before it frees. It just feels odd , like you have to press hard to make it move, after which its fine.
Can any one tell me is this normal without any engine vacuum and m/c attached or have i got a faulty servo .I so hope its not the latter as Hot Rod Jack already sent the wrong servo the 1st time .
Nigel
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24th May 2016, 08:28
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Dual Servo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nigbo
I have now got my black powder coated MBM servo fitted and linked up to the pedal with rose joint and all bolted in place and nicely aligned. I used an endoscope camera to watch it all working! The m/c is not fitted nor the tried with engine running but the pedal action has the initially stickiness before it frees. It just feels odd , like you have to press hard to make it move, after which its fine.
Can any one tell me is this normal without any engine vacuum and m/c attached or have i got a faulty servo .I so hope its not the latter as Hot Rod Jack already sent the wrong servo the 1st time .
Nigel
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Hi Nigel
As you are doubtless aware several adopters of this servo had problems with sticking brakes, and it took us a long time to work out why - and I hope the answer will help with your question.
We found that the servo pulled the brakes on by itself over a period of driving. The final conclusion was that we should have been advised to fit a reasonably strong pedal return spring - the Landrover one advertised on ebay for £2.38 a pair is ideal.
And this brings me to an answer to your issue.
The dual servo must create a seal to atmospheric pressure when the pedal is at rest - if there is a leak it will effectively suck the brakes on and lead to binding and severely over heated brakes. I suspect the experience you are feeling is the 'stickiness' of that seal: it will have an internal spring to help close it off. I do not think you have a problem.
If you have not fitted the master cylinder, have you changed the adjustable screw in the output rod end? The supplied adjuster is not quite long enough to engage with the Sierra master cylinder: it must be change for a longer dome headed screw. This can be difficult, as there is a lock nut to be loosened before it will unscrew, and access in the deep recess is difficult. The best solution is to depress the input shaft in a wide vice with wooden jaws (a B&D Workmate is ideal) - this keeps the output shaft and nut easily accessible.
You will be amazed at how it transforms your Sportster: you can drive it harder, with much more confidence.
Goodluck, and let us know what you think when you have it up and running.
Mike
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24th May 2016, 21:16
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Servo issues
Mike
thanks for the prompt reply. Yes i have had a special adjustment screw machined up and tested in place with the M/C. Also took the precaution of fitting Goose's Land Rover spring mod.
Hope your'e right about the sticking issue. Just having the brake pipe plumbing done by a local garage and they are going refill and bleed the system this week.
Fingers crossed. Note of warning to anybody having to order a dual servo make sure you emphasise that what you want in large bold text in your email, they got it wrong and with duty and shipping and everything i ended up nearly £ 200 out of pocket.( anybody want an 8" servo!)
Nigel
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25th May 2016, 22:07
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As I will be helping Happy Dave fit a dual servo soon to his newly acquired Hunter (currently has the Metro one) I have been re-reading all through the earlier posts for this epic project to refresh my memory.
Regarding the pedal pull off spring I have checked and none is fitted to mine. That said I have never had any tendency for the brakes to pull on by themselves. There is quite a positive spring action for the pedal return so that must come from within the servo itself?
Peter.
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25th May 2016, 22:11
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Mike. Can you please tell me where you obtained your rose joint for the end of the push rod and what the thread is? I will buy two as I want to replace my own original clevis sometime for peace of mind. Peter.
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26th May 2016, 20:24
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Rose Joint
Peter
excuse for jumping in on this, but i got mine from from ABC (Anglia bearing Company) part no. MP061F39 (male only available).However when i contacted them i had the last one, i tried to get an additional back up but it seems like they were manufactured specially (was it for Mike ?) as a job lot . I phoned round about 5 other specialist companies and basically the answer seemed to be that no one did a 3/8 UNF male thread and a 10mm rose joint hole.
Mike may have better answers. I had to have a collar machined up anyway to join the male joint to the servo push rod thread. I found in my Marlin i had to shorten both the rose joint thread and pushrod thread length slightly to get them to fit and still have a decent amount of thread in the collar. So there is no reason the collar could have different threads at each end 3/8 facing the servo and 10mm to meet the male 10mm rose joint.
Nigel
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27th May 2016, 08:37
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Hi Nigel.
No problem and many thanks for this info. I had intended to use a female rose joint to replace my existing female clevis so maybe one of those in 3/8" UNF will be easier to source. Peter.
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29th May 2016, 07:51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nigbo
Peter
excuse for jumping in on this, but i got mine from from ABC (Anglia bearing Company) part no. MP061F39 (male only available).However when i contacted them i had the last one, i tried to get an additional back up but it seems like they were manufactured specially (was it for Mike ?) as a job lot . I phoned round about 5 other specialist companies and basically the answer seemed to be that no one did a 3/8 UNF male thread and a 10mm rose joint hole.
Mike may have better answers. I had to have a collar machined up anyway to join the male joint to the servo push rod thread. I found in my Marlin i had to shorten both the rose joint thread and pushrod thread length slightly to get them to fit and still have a decent amount of thread in the collar. So there is no reason the collar could have different threads at each end 3/8 facing the servo and 10mm to meet the male 10mm rose joint.
Nigel
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There is an interesting back story here which may prove useful to know......
My rose joint solution was to source a 10mm female rose joint and weld a 3/8" x 20mm long collar collar to it.
See post 653 in this thread. Whilst I am 100% confident of its structure (it operates only in compression), I felt others may want an off the shelf solution, - hence the Anglia Bearing 3/8" male threaded 10mm rose joint and a 3/8" collar, which all simply screws together.
If this is no longer available off the shelf, I would be happy to get a 10mm rose joint professionally welded to a 3/8" collar, as per my own arrangement, for anyone wanting to go down this route. Send me a PM.
Mike
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31st May 2016, 11:25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
There is an interesting back story here which may prove useful to know......
My rose joint solution was to source a 10mm female rose joint and weld a 3/8" x 20mm long collar collar to it.
See post 653 in this thread. Whilst I am 100% confident of its structure (it operates only in compression), I felt others may want an off the shelf solution, - hence the Anglia Bearing 3/8" male threaded 10mm rose joint and a 3/8" collar, which all simply screws together.
If this is no longer available off the shelf, I would be happy to get a 10mm rose joint professionally welded to a 3/8" collar, as per my own arrangement, for anyone wanting to go down this route. Send me a PM.
Mike
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Hi Mike.
Yes I would be interested in two please. Have sent you a couple of PMs, but on the other forum Peter.
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