deggsy's A352

[deggsy]

Scottie I am fitting all stainless jubilee clips to mine much better also all non stressed bolts will be stainless

[Scottie22]

I agree Degs, I am doing the same. Most of the nuts and bolts on my car are all stainless, well worth the little bit extra I think.

[deggsy]

absolutely I am also planning on changing all brackets' heat shields and dust shields for stainless as well (as much shiny bling as possible)

[deggsy]

The boot box in front of the fuel tank is now done but I chickened out of cutting the boot support outriggers? but I have a devious plan where I cut them off and re weld them on at a new angle to support the boot and keep the DVLA happy.

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I would like to get the car running before the body goes on So I stared on the electrics I had to re-modify the modified dash. And fitted in place with a grate deal of very accurate guesswork

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This makes the wiring behind the dash much easier to install as you can see.

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But I realise that the gear box cover will be very awkward to make/fit when the dash is fully installed so I have also made a start on that.

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I also worked out that the brake master cylinder will be too tall for the body so I have sent for a later tandem unit which will mean a little bit of re-pluming Doh

[Scottie22]

All this pre-planning may be a pain Degsy, but well worth it in the end!

[deggsy]

yes I agree and to top it all my chepo ebay air riveter died on me yesterday after only about 150 rivets s#!t and b%%ger it I'll have to buy a decent one now!

[deggsy]

Not a lot happening I have been trying to sort out the wiring and cabling making holes for the grommets etc.
Then I decided to have a go at the boot supports and in the process tried to decapitate my left middle finger with my angle grinder luckily I failed but it looks as if I have been at it with a cheese grater so I have retired to my favourite chair and pain killers (vodka) hic

[deggsy]

Managed to get a bit more done this weekend I finally cut down the rear boot supports I have welded a blanking plate in with a nut on the inside so I can bolt or weld the supports back in place once the body is on.
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I also remade the exhaust rear support hopefully the body should clear it ok!

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I am still playing with the electrics having problems with the overdrive and 2 speed heater wiring what wires I have are the wrong colour codes and I have 2 inhibitor switches on the gearbox all the diagrams show only one?????

[Mick O'Malley]

Originally Posted by deggsy

I have 2 inhibitor switches on the gearbox all the diagrams show only one?????

I think one is for limiting overdrive selection to third and top, the other is the reversing light switch. Maybe.

[deggsy]

Thanks Mick I wish it was that simple as you can see from the photos below (just) there is a inhibitor switch in front of the gearstick the reverse light switch is just behind the gearstick (two wires going to it) at the front on the top of the gearbox there is another inhibitor switch? this is where the selectors should be so I have wired up to that one.
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It may or may not be right I'll find out the first time I drive it?

today I installed the bottom fillets to the frame these will be sealed with P.U. adhesive once the body is on
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[deggsy]

T checked them today and you're right the one by the gearbox would have power going through it in all gears the one at the front only in 3rd and top so hopefully that should do the trick

[deggsy]

I bled the clutch today it wont work? it's all new but won't disengage $#it

[Scottie22]

The trials and tribulations of kit car ownership keep up the good work you'll get there in the end.

Now where have I heard that before........... :-)

[deggsy]

hmmmm I wonder who that was hoo!

[deggsy]

Well I still can't get the clutch to disengage so I'll have to take it out but I have to do it the hard way as the bell housing won't go back past the new frame! engine out bl@@dy ell

[IanA]

Originally Posted by deggsy

Well I still can't get the clutch to disengage so I'll have to take it out but I have to do it the hard way as the bell housing won't go back past the new frame! engine out bl@@dy ell

Been there. I rebuilt a Lotus Seven Series 1 with a Ford crossflow engine and gearbox. The clutch hydraulics were working- the slave arm was moving the right amount but not disengaging. Turns out the D-spacer between the arm and the thrust bearing carrier had come adrift.

[Mick O'Malley]

Originally Posted by deggsy

Well I still can't get the clutch to disengage so I'll have to take it out but I have to do it the hard way as the bell housing won't go back past the new frame! engine out bl@@dy ell

If it's some time since it was fitted, it's more than likely that the driven plate is stuck to the flywheel. Wedge the pedal down with a long stick (in neutral!) and leave the beast ticking over. Once the heat gets to the flywheel it'll free itself. Maybe.

Regards, Mick

[deggsy]

probably something similar going on here I've got pressure and the lever arm is moving but nothing happens???????

[Alpha]

Though it may sound painfull, one trick is to let the car warm up, as Mick said above, and then just slam the gear lever into third - that got the clutch freed on my Triumph GT6 after it had been standing for a year and a half.

[IanA]

Originally Posted by Alpha

Though it may sound painfull, one trick is to let the car warm up, as Mick said above, and then just slam the gear lever into third - that got the clutch freed on my Triumph GT6 after it had been standing for a year and a half.

My suggestion- at your own risk of course- is to warm the engine in neutral then restart it in 1st gear. With the car idling down the road- stamp on the clutch and brake pedals simultaneously. Does need the space to do it though.