Are you madabout kit cars      
 "We've Got Kit Cars Covered" Information about Madabout-Kitcars.com Contact Madabout-Kitcars.com         Home of UK kit cars - madabout-kitcars.com Various kit car write ups All the latest kit car news Kit car related and general discussion

Search
Manufacturers
Kit Cars
Kit Car Data sheets
Picture Gallery
SVA Knowledgebase
Clubs & Communities
Build cost estimator
Kit cars for sale
Knowledge Base 
KitcarUSA.com
Classic-Kitcars.com
 

Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Sammio Builds and discussions

Sammio Builds and discussions Sammio bodied car builds and specials

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1981  
Old 21st August 2015, 20:29
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Jones - Thanks.

All the steering column & radiator hassles made it feel like I was spending a lot of time going backwards recently.

But I've enjoyed making the bonnet bulge and I'm glad that it is all that was required to solve the clearance issues.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Thursday:
Too wet in the morning to get anything done and then I had a cinema trip with my daughters to see Paper Towns.
( Which wouldn't have been my first choice, as it is a teenage chick flick / romcom. )

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Friday - Part 1:
Bit of a stop/start/do other chores type of day, so the following updates are not in a strict time order.

Bonnet Bulge
A layer of normal body filler was added.



Then sanded down.



A coat of etch primer made a big difference.



So here is what it looks like now.







In an ideal world, the new radiator would have fitted without the need for any extra work.

Having said that, I am really pleased with how well this new addition has blended in.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Comparing Bulges:
Without wishing to turned this thread into "Carry On Sammio Building", my bulge is probably a bit bigger than it needs to be.

But there was no way I was going to risk making it too small, so I can live with it being slightly oversized.

Although Phil & Barry's cars seem to have bulges roughly the same size as mine.



I found this Sammio Spyder on Google Images and it has a much larger bulge by comparison.



- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Scuttle Mould
It took three fibreglass sessions to finish covering the foam & I also extended the mould a bit while I was at it.



Eventually the moment of truth came and the mould was lifted off the scuttle.



Obviously there is still some tidying up to do around here.

The good news is the mould now really holds it shape without the wobbling I had before.



Having said that, I think I'd must rather be working with a former, rather than a mould.

As this has taken quite a bit of effort (with some tidying up still to do) and I haven't even started making the bonnet edge yet!

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Bonnet Wounds:
I ended up mixing too much filler for the bonnet bulge, so spread the "left overs" on the inside of the bonnet to avoid waste.



Note:
I have no intention of creating a smooth surface, I just want to "soften" the evidence of where the cutting & shutting took place.

So a very rough sand down left me with this.



But this is something I can come back to another day.

End of Part 1...
Reply With Quote
  #1982  
Old 21st August 2015, 20:31
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Friday - Part 2:

I've spent a lot of time recently thinking about how I will tackle the following:
- Bonnet rear edge re-profiling
- Front wheel arches re-shaping
- Joining part of bonnet to body shell

As the simple fact is these areas are all inter-connected and can't be done in isolation.

So my current thinking is to temporarily join the bonnet and body shell together.

Then "cut and shut" the areas that need fixing as a single, multi-stepped task.

So today I started to work on the practicalities of actually making this happen.

Front Wheel Arches:
Forget working outside, the biggest pain I face when build this car is my sloping driveway.

It is constantly playing tricks with my perception of what is "straight".

So in my head, the slope of the drive was setting the wheels at significantly different heights relative to the arches.

Passenger Side:



Driver's Side:
( Sorry the front wall stops me taking a matching photo. )



So how could I be sure where to measure the new arches from?

Thankfully I worked out a simple solution involving a bit of cardboard.

As the key "level" for me is the flat edges of the Spitfire bulkhead.



This is the line I want to use as a marker for the top edge of the body shell extension.

So my simple "system" allowed me to take the cardboard to the driver's side and mark that for comparison.



To my utter amazement, the bulkhead to tyre level is with in a mm (or so) on both sides, practically spot on.

The next question was what size of a gap do I need to leave around the wheel.

I quickly checked my Mondeo arches and they have a 3" gap.



I then made another cardboard template cut at a 3" gap, but with a 2" gap marked in red.



The widest gap in the photo above is 1.5" from the arch to the cardboard (or 2.5" to the red line).

I might actually split the difference and re-set the arches at 2.5" as the car is not at full "racing weight" yet.

Either way, any reduction in the current "gaping hole" has got to be a good thing.

In addition to adjusting the size of the arches, the front edge needs to be "tucked in" a bit.



As the "return" is not at 90 degrees at the front of the arch, compared to the rear.



- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Epilogue:
It was only after I had packed everything away that I remembered there was another check I should have made.

I should have put the gap template over the bulkhead "level" template to see where they meet.

As this would give me an ideal height for the arch split / join.

This is Swifty's extension.



Actually, while looking for that photo, I also found his rear arch re-shaping.



Whilst I would rather have a gap that is too big, rather than too small.

As always, I'd love to hear your thoughts on what you think a suitable gap would be.

Cheers, Paul.
Reply With Quote
  #1983  
Old 21st August 2015, 21:09
garyh garyh is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: birchington, kent
Posts: 1,769
garyh is on a distinguished road
Default

I like 2", but I don't mind 3"... So I may well go for 2 1/5 as it could settle at 2"... Especially with passengers.
Reply With Quote
  #1984  
Old 22nd August 2015, 19:37
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Gary - Thanks for your comprehensive feedback ( I think ).

Jokes aside, I've spotted something else today that I need to consider, see 2nd post below.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Odds & Ends:
Another stop/start kind of day, so I'll group the jobs together as before...

Scuttle Mould:
Trimmed off the edges and generally tidied up around the outside of the mould.
( In a vain attempt to reduce the number of splinters in my fingers! )



Extending the width of the mould had been a last minute decision.

What I should have done is trim off the edge and build a neat join, but I didn't.

Instead I simply added extra matting over the top and this has caused some "hollows".



So I gave the whole join a skim of normal body filler to fill in any gaps along the join.



I think I added too much hardener given how hot it was, so this ended up being quite a messy finish.
( As I ran out of time to do a final scrape of the excess filler. )

But once it was set I could sand it all down to a smooth (ish) finish.



Note:
I know the final bonnet edge profile is going to need some work to blend in with the scuttle.
So I am really making the starting point for the bonnet edge, not the finished product.

Then the inside edge of the mould was covered in parcel tape.



When I started the fibreglass work, this corner of the garden was actually in shade which was a big help.



Unfortunately, the third matting session was fully exposed to the blazing sun and the "pot life" was very short indeed.

So rather than continue working in a rush/panic, I called it a day after that session and left the matting to set in the sunshine.



So far, I have one layer across the whole inside surface and a second layer on 2/3rds of the mould.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Driver's Seat:
With all the grief I had with the steering column, I never actually got around to fitting the driver's seat.

So today I put the steering wheel back on and tried to find a good driving position.

There really isn't a great deal of choice about where I can fit the seat, as the Cordite cockpit is very tight.

So I settled for a position where I could at least reach everything and actually drive the car.

Then I taped the template to the floor and drilled the 4 fixing holes required.



Please excuse my finger appearing in this photo.



- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Car Cover Repairs:
One of the straps on my car cover had come apart and all the others were starting to go too.



So I added some tape either side of the straps and added some extra stitching to help.



The straps needed to be pulled pretty tight to avoid the wind really catching the cover.
( As it isn't a perfect match of the car's shape. )

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Passing Strangers:
A couple on a scooter stopped and asked me for directions, after their Sat Nav had lead them astray

They took a huge interest in the car, so I pulled the covers off the back half so they could get a better look.
( I was working on the driver's seat at the time. )

We had a great chat and it turns out their had built their own house and taught themselves to weld too.

What was really a great boost to morale for me is that they only see the good bits, if that makes sense.

Whereas I tend to see all the work I have left to do when I look at the car, rather than the overall impression.

So I need to remind myself that regardless of long it takes to finish, I will have a great looking car at the end.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

End of Part 1...
Reply With Quote
  #1985  
Old 22nd August 2015, 19:39
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Front Wheel Arches - Take 2:
I went back to my cardboard templates and extended the lines from the bulkhead "levels".



So even if I set a 3" gap, I would still need to make a "drop" join between the body shell and bonnet.

Which is similar to the way Mac did his.



Thankfully I spotted something else today, that I had missed yesterday.

I need the body shell extension to cover the Spitfire bulkhead and a 3" gap wouldn't cover it.



A bit of masking tape around the bottom corner and a cut in the template makes this easier to see.



So the maximum gap can't really be bigger than 2", which lead me to have yet another look at other cars.

Swifty's rear arch gap (seen in yesterday's post) is 40-45mm, which is 1.5 to 1.75".

I also would estimate that Mr T's front arches' gap is around the 2" mark.



Although Barry & Phil seem to have even less on their cars, again see photos in yesterday's post.

I even had a look at photos of Spitfire 1500s and they do not have large gaps all round.



So the bottom line is that a 2" gap should be more than enough, even allowing for a bit of a drop when fully loaded.

I marked up what this would make the extension panel look like.



Note:
That assumes I make the cut in the middle of the wheel arch.

But if you have another look at Mac's car above, you can see his body shell stops a little short of the middle of the arch.

Thankfully I have plenty of time to work out the best option to take.

So until next time, take care, Paul.
Reply With Quote
  #1986  
Old 22nd August 2015, 20:39
swifty's Avatar
swifty swifty is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 839
swifty is on a distinguished road
Default

Paul if you get the gap to small you can always fit adjustable shocks to the front and lift the ride height like i did.

If you have a block fitted between the rear leaf and diff you can remove this or decrease the block height to lift the rear of the car, this i have recently done also.

Good look with the body mods and your car build is rolling again, great to see.
Reply With Quote
  #1987  
Old 23rd August 2015, 11:58
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Swifty - Cheers.

I currently have a lowering block fitted at the rear, but standard Spitfire shocks at the front.

See below for my latest ideas on the front arches.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Short Sunday Session:
With heavy rain forecast, I knew I would not be able to get much done.

But I managed to do two fibre glass sessions on the rear bonnet edge.



So now the whole thing has two layers of matting on it.

I've also added a 3rd layer where the cut to match the scuttle will be made.

But I've left the rest for now, as extra layers of matting will be added when I join this section to the bonnet.

I left this on the grass for a while, before transferring it to the shed so it can finish curing without getting wet.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

I also went out for a slog* around the local streets this morning, as part of my battle with the bulge (not the one on my bonnet).
( * Slow + Jog = Slog )

I spent a lot of time looking at the rear arches of modern cars in the area as I was going along.

Whilst the gap between the tyre and arch varied, they all had one thing in common, a nice round arch profile.

So if I go back to this photo for a minute...



"Just" bringing the front arches in to that red line would still make a HUGE improvement over what I have now.

The other thing that occurred to me is that if I build a 2" gap, fitting larger wheels would still be an option in the future.
( I am sticking with the brand new 13" wheels & tyres that came with my donor for now. )

The other thought that I had requires one of my dodgy sketches.



I built a new scuttle section over the top of my Spitfire bulkhead, which makes it higher than Swifty, Mac, etc.

So it might be better to make the body shell extension shorter, thus making the join with the bonnet "chunkier".

What do you think?

Cheers, Paul.
Reply With Quote
  #1988  
Old 23rd August 2015, 14:56
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Dodgy Sketch - Take 2:
I realised that the original sketch didn't take account of the "slope" built into the side of the scuttle.

So here is an amended version that matches the line of the scuttle and extends it into the side extension.



This approach should allow the bonnet to open and close cleanly.

Cheers, Paul.
Reply With Quote
  #1989  
Old 26th August 2015, 20:08
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Wet Play Time:
Unfortunately, I just couldn't get a decent photo showing just how hard it was raining today.



Although this one looking into the back garden gives a slightly better idea.



Still, I've been thinking a bit more about how the extension to the side of the body shell will work.

This is Swifty's version:



And this is Mac's:



But if I go back to my last dodgy sketch for a minute.



The key difference is my extension will not be coming to a narrow point towards the centre of the wheel arch.

I am currently thinking of using the width of the Spitfire bulkhead as my guide for the depth of the horizontal "cut".

So in the photo below, the diagonal line would go from the outside edge of the cardboard next to "P", to the top of the red arrow next to the 2" mark.
( Give or take a bit. )



This should mean the body shell extension is big enough to completely cover the Spitfire bulkhead.

Plus there will still be enough removed from the bonnet to avoid it digging into your back when looking in the engine bay.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Limited Dry Time:
The sun eventually arrived in the late afternoon and my plan was to add some extra fibreglass matting to the edges of the mould.
( Just to make sure that areas where the cut would be at an angle to match the scuttle had been re-enforced enough. )

However, I was was just checking which areas had a 3rd layer of matting, when I discovered yet another school boy error.

Somehow, I had managed to re-enforce the wrong edge!

So I have now ended up with 3 layers of matting all over the mould (plus the extra depth where the matting overlaps).



After leaving it to set for a bit outside, I've moved this into the shed to cure over night.

Hopefully, if the weather holds, I'll try to separate the new bonnet edge from the mould tomorrow.

So until then, take care, Paul.
Reply With Quote
  #1990  
Old 27th August 2015, 14:55
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Bloody Weather!
Despite the ridiculous amount of rain around at the moment, I've managed to get a little bit done today.

I started by sanding off any excess fibreglass mess from both sides of the scuttle.

Before:





After:





While I was at it, I also sanding down the inside edge of my wind break lip.
( Where the mirror screen will be mounted. )





Then these areas all got a quick dusting of etch primer, so I could get a better look at the current finish.







Although the surface isn't great it a few places, at least it looks better than it did before.

Whilst the primer was drying, I separated the new rear bonnet edge from the mould.



Before giving all the edges a quick trim / tidy.



Then it was time to see how close this was to the final rear bonnet edge profile I need to achieve.



Early indications are that I am at least in the right ball park, as the edge will sit a bit higher when a rubber strip is added to the scuttle lip.

Although at this point the outside edges had not been trimmed to match the angled profile of the scuttle.



So trimming the outside edges were the first cuts I needed to make.



Then after a bit more cutting and trimming I was getting closer.



And that will do for now, as I spotted a few small areas of the scuttle edge that needed to be tidied up first.

I then quickly put this new section over the top of the temporary rear edge extension.
( This gives you a rough idea where the join will be. )



It will be quite a tricky job to 'cut & shut' this into place, whilst blending in the straight & curved sections at the same time.

But I am happy to give it a go and see what happens.

I also very roughly marked out what the bonnet cut / body shell extension will look like.



So when the bonnet it open, everything to the right of the tape will be attached to the body shell.



Which means that there should be no reason to "catch" the pointy bit of the bonnet's wheel arch.

At this point I felt a drop of rain and quickly called it a day before tidying up and putting the covers back on.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Next Steps:
I need to remove the body shell to grind a fraction from two small sections of the boot's rain channel.
( Which seem to be just catching the internal frame work. )

That should give me the final resting place of the rear of the body shell, before I start chopping the front end up.



Although I will spend a bit of time working out the best way / correct sequence to tackle these three areas.
( Rear bonnet edge, front wheel arches & body shell extension. )

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Until next time, take care, Paul.
Reply With Quote
  #1991  
Old 27th August 2015, 16:44
reneanglia reneanglia is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 168
reneanglia is on a distinguished road
Default

Nice work Paul.
For the bonnet cut....can't you do a straight cut from the top of the wheel arch horizontal towards the body/bulkhead?
To me it seems easier to do,less gaps to line up and it likes more ehh....factory.
Just my two cents,René
Reply With Quote
  #1992  
Old 27th August 2015, 20:28
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Rene - The problem I have is a difference in heights between where the top of the wheel arch will be (after I have altered it) and where the Spitfire bulkhead is.

This means that if I make a horizontal cut from the top of the wheel arch, I'd need a "step" up to the bulkhead.

Whereas, a horizontal cut from the bulkhead would need a "step" down to the wheel arch.

I'll take a few photos tomorrow which should make it easier to see.

Cheers, Paul.

PS
I liked the photos of your new man cave over on R'n'S.
( Just never got around to posting a reply there. )
Reply With Quote
  #1993  
Old 27th August 2015, 21:27
reneanglia reneanglia is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 168
reneanglia is on a distinguished road
Default

Thanks Paul,i am very happy with the new garage,took me 30 years to raise the money and get a permit from the local council but finally it all comes together.
Altough it is big enough to work on a car it will be not used for cars,i am going to use it for restoring vintage bikes and building race bikes,can also use it for special parts making on the mill and the lathe.
Reply With Quote
  #1994  
Old 28th August 2015, 21:20
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Rene - Well it certainly looks like it was worth the wait.

I really liked the concrete slabs being lowered into place, a very clever idea.

I build the slab for our, much smaller, Summer House and that was a real pain.



I took a few photos today which I hope will explain why I am cutting the bonnet at an odd angle.

This is the Spitfire bulkhead underneath my Cordite shell.



This gives me my odd shaped scuttle area, compared to other Cordite builds.

The bottom edge of this stick lines up with the top of the bulkhead "shelf".



So there would be a step down to the 2" wheel arch gap (red line).

But if I use the top of the wheel arch as my guide (top edge of stick).



Then there would be a step up to the bulkhead shelf.

I hope that makes sense, but given the way today went, that is the least of my worries...

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Bonnet Butchery - Part 1:
Before I started on the bonnet, I wanted to trim a bit off the rain channel in the rear corners of the boot.



Not easy to get a decent photo, but the rain channel is just touching the internal frame work here.



Unfortunately, my wife had just left to take our daughters shopping, so I had no one to help me lift the body shell off.

So I simply channelled my inner WorldClassAccident and propped the shell up using bits of wood.





The "after" photo is not great either.



At least it was enough to confirm that this made no difference to how the front end sat.
( But it will help the way the rear of the shell sits. }

Next I used some straps to gently pull the front edges of the body shell into place.



Some bits of yoga mat were used to lift the bonnet a bit higher than was actually needed.



I also used some thick cardboard to ensure I had sufficient clearance around the edge of the radiator.



I marked up the ends of the new bonnet rear edge to match the Spitfire bulkhead.



Then the temporary lip was removed to help me mark up the area of the bonnet than needed to be cut.





Then I proceeded to remove bits of the bonnet in small stages so I could keep checking the fit.



End of Part 1...
Reply With Quote
  #1995  
Old 28th August 2015, 21:21
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Bonnet Butchery - Part 2:

Because as soon as I cleared one area, something else would get in the way.

I had to hack a bit off the front edge of the passenger side body work.





Although having now cleared that, the rear edge got in the way and needed trimming.



Eventually the bonnet looked like this.



Which gave enough room for the new edge to be joined to it.



Although I still had a few undulations to deal with.



At one point I though it would be easier to create the "dips" between the wheel arches and raised bonnet centre.



Thankfully, I remembered that whilst this would work on the passenger side, the master cylinder is in the way on the other side.



So I simply cut a number of slits along the rear of the bonnet.



These will allow me to lower the centre section a bit, and then raise the edges either side of this section a bit too.

I temporarily screwed in both ends of the new rear edge to the body shell.



Before joining the two sections together along the centre of the bonnet.





As with previous "cut & shut" work, I will cover the gaps on the underside...



Before grinding out the "scar" and adding extra fibreglass along the join on the sunny side.

The good news is that the undulations in the middle of the bonnet have now been tamed.



The bad news is that both ends of the bonnet are currently a complete mismatch.



But I figured it was better to start fixing the "easy" bits first and then come back and have another look at this later.

End of Part 2...

Last edited by Paul L; 29th August 2015 at 06:37.. Reason: Typo
Reply With Quote
  #1996  
Old 28th August 2015, 21:24
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Bonnet Butchery - Part 3:

When the foam is removed, the bonnet edge will drop slightly.



I will also be adding fibreglass / filler to improve transition from flat (ish) scuttle to sloping bonnet.

Even though this is clearly still under construction, the final shape is starting to appear.



By the time I've finished with the bonnet edge, wheel arches gap & body shell extension it should look pretty good.

If the weather holds tomorrow, I will at least make a start on healing the wound.

Until then, take care, Paul.

PS
"Quote of the day" goes to the small boy walking past with his granny...

"I like that car, it is a racing car".


Last edited by Paul L; 30th August 2015 at 10:56.. Reason: Cropping oversize photo
Reply With Quote
  #1997  
Old 28th August 2015, 22:57
Roadster's Avatar
Roadster Roadster is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 935
Roadster is on a distinguished road
Default

Good progress Paul
I love when even though its all tacked together - we have a clear picture how it will end up.

I just realised my concept is more Sammio tham cobra
Reply With Quote
  #1998  
Old 29th August 2015, 07:03
Paul L's Avatar
Paul L Paul L is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Wembley, London
Posts: 5,056
Paul L is on a distinguished road
Default

Roadster - Thanks.

This current round of chopping & changing definitely falls into the "overcoming obstacles" category.

At least I now have enough experience of working with fibreglass to know that this mess can be fixed with some more effort.

For example, I woke up early this morning still thinking about these mismatched profiles at the corners.



There is actually a taper in the scuttle corners, which obviously transferred to the mould & therefore the new rear edge piece.

This has resulted in the corners pointing "inwards", making it harder to produce a smooth join to the rest of the bonnet's wheel arch curves.

So I will need to do some more butchery on these new corner sections to realign them and then have another look at how the join itself will work.

However, that can wait until the middle section of the bonnet has been rejoined, making it easier for me to check the overall alignment.

Although before I do anything else, I might just go back to bed for a bit!

Cheers, Paul.
Reply With Quote
  #1999  
Old 29th August 2015, 08:56
Roadster's Avatar
Roadster Roadster is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 935
Roadster is on a distinguished road
Default

Paul I have an idea and I wonder if it would be easier to change your the break between body and bonnet to a single line rather than your step shape.



My sketch shows a single line very similar to the flitch panel on the classic mini, I left your step in feint.

This sloping line would prevent corners snagging and leaves just a single edge to mate up.


I did read the post to see if I could see why you were making a step but honestly I couldn't see a reason. Sorry if you had explained . im still waking up

Just an idea
Reply With Quote
  #2000  
Old 29th August 2015, 10:19
reneanglia reneanglia is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 168
reneanglia is on a distinguished road
Default

I must agree with the above,don't see a reason for the step profile.
It does'nt matter what is behind the bonnet if it's closed,if it is open you can finish the bulkhead with some alloy plates to give it a decent look.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +0. The time now is 14:40.

copyright © madabout-kitcars.com 2000-2024
terms and conditions | privacy policy