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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds

Vintage and Classic Roadster Kit Car Builds For Vintage and Classic era kit cars. Post your build reports, problems and progress here

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  #81  
Old 13th October 2021, 18:06
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MartinClan MartinClan is offline
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Couldn't resist trying a splined hub and wire wheel. The hubs were intended for one of the small Triumphs, but as these share a lot of parts with the Marina I gambled they would fit.
They look awfully wide until you fit a wheel at which point - they look perfect IMHO...
Cheers, Robin
splined_hub by Robin Martin, on Flickr
wire_wheel by Robin Martin, on Flickr
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  #82  
Old 13th October 2021, 18:39
molleur molleur is offline
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Looks good!
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  #83  
Old 14th October 2021, 15:14
jonkoxe jonkoxe is offline
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Hi Robin
I love the look of wires on the Roadster.
When I originally built my roadster back in 1986 I fitted adaptors and wires like you.
WARNING: Make sure the wire wheel seats correctly onto the tapered part of the adapter. I had loads of problems with mine until I realised the wheels were seating onto the top of the wheel studs. After grinding them back flush with the wheel nuts I managed to get them to work correctly. Hope this makes sense.
Jon
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  #84  
Old 14th October 2021, 17:37
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
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Good tip ! I usually put a blob of paint onto each wheel stud and fit the wheel. Remove it again and check for paint on the back of the wheel.
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  #85  
Old 21st October 2021, 13:13
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MartinClan MartinClan is offline
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Thanks for the comments and tips. STILL waiting for my Ikea kitchen so progress continues. After a lot of delays the zintec steel for my front and rear bulkheads arrived. I am making them from steel as opposed to the original alluminium for strength. The front bulkhead tends to crack arround the pedal box and the rear bulkhead has the seatbelts mounted to it. I was able to use my newly beefed up bender for the first time. As expected the folds are fairly soft but fine for the purpose.

on_a_bender by Robin Martin, on Flickr

rear_bulkhead2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

It fits considerably better than the original factory made effort - even if I do say so myself!

Cheers, Robin
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  #86  
Old 21st October 2021, 13:46
molleur molleur is offline
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nice work!
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  #87  
Old 21st October 2021, 16:07
AlanHogg AlanHogg is offline
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Very neat job !
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  #88  
Old 3rd November 2021, 10:36
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Default Heater Options

I am currently re-making the front bulkhead of DRL152K and, as that is where it may be mounted, I am thinking about heater options. I wondered what others have done and I have a few questions.

Is it worth the effort fitting windscreen demisters? I will only very occasionally be using a hood.
Is it worth trying to get fresh air in, or is a simple recirculating heater the better (and simpler!) option.
And where is the best place to mount the heater? I was going to put it on top the bulkhead, as per the manual, but if I use one of the smaller aftermarket jobbies (T7 design is favourite) it's probably small enough to sit under the dashboard on top of the transmission tunnel.

Cheers, Robin
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  #89  
Old 3rd November 2021, 11:37
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Mister Towed Mister Towed is offline
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I had one of these in my Spyder -

https://www.t7design.co.uk/2-2kw-mic...9-cc4-d35.html

It never really put much heat out, I'm afraid, even taking into account that it was in a completely open car. I've gone for a much bigger heater matrix from a production car (VW Corrado) with a surface mount fan for my latest project, which is also going to be completely open.

As for fresh air inlet and demisting, the two really go hand in hand and I'd say they will be essential for safety reasons if you get caught in a downpour with the hood up.
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  #90  
Old 18th November 2021, 19:20
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I have made some good progress on replacing the front bulkhead. The original was rather tired and had a scary crack from pressure from the pedal box.
cracked by Robin Martin, on Flickr
I have made the replacement in steel, the same as the rear bulkhead. Proved to be quite tricky getting it right particularly at the bottom arround the chassis members. I have a couple of closing plates to still to fit there.
The pedal box is also trial fitted. I have made a L & H shaped reinforcement from 25mm angle to help spread the load. The clutch pedal needs a little adjustment using the blowtorch and hammer it seems.
The observant might notice there are 2 rows of fixings at the top rear of the bulkhead. The original design used the same fixings both to fix the scuttle (dashboard) moulding and secure the bulkhead to a chassis crossmember. I decided to make those seperate thereby improving the strength. I know the fixings are stainless, generally frowned upon for anything structural, but there are enough of them to well distribute any loads. On the final assembly I will also bond the bulkhead using a Sikaflex adhesive - same as I did on the Pembleton.
front_bulkhead1 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
front_bulkhead2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

Next job: overhaul the steering rack and decide on the position for the steering column. I want it under, rather than through, the dash as in the original design. The orginal Marina steering column is pretty shot so I am thinking of using one from a Triumph Spitfire for which you can still get things like bushes.

Cheers for now, Robin
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  #91  
Old 19th November 2021, 10:12
oxford1360 oxford1360 is offline
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Very neat, and it will bring greater peace of mind.

It inspires me to get back to my project.
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  #92  
Old 19th November 2021, 11:57
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peterux peterux is offline
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Nice work Robin, as expected
Perhaps you should make a few more for other Marlin restorers?
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  #93  
Old 20th November 2021, 10:37
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Awesome work Robin
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