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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Seven Style builds

Seven Style builds Westfields, Caterham, Dax Rush, Luego, Robin Hood, Tiger, Locust, MK, RAW, Quantum, you name it, you're building it, share it here.

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  #21  
Old 6th August 2022, 18:20
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Default Bye Bye Old Mountings.

Next visit to the repeatedly stifling cave involved kneeling pad, hacksaw, angle grinder, both cutting and grinding discs, and a flapwheel. Cutting one end of the engine mountings from the frame, and using work hardening to break off the other end, resulted in unsightly holes in the frame as the welds proved much stronger than TDW's tubes. Patching will be required.



The gearbox mounting offered little resistance and was off in no time.



I then ground and flapped off the worst of the jagged stubs and called it a day.

Regards, Mick
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  #22  
Old 7th August 2022, 10:30
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Default Wide Steel Wheel Woes

Wanting an Old Skool look, I'd been scanning Ebay for wide steel wheels. I came across an ad. for six Mk1 Escort ones at 100 quid. As soon as I 'watched' them the vendor offered them for 75. Making sure from the pictures that they were 13" (very early Escorts had 12") I bought and paid for them. Having collected them from Aylesbury I ordered five 165 80 13s from my ever helpful supplier, who removed the old rubber so I could refurbish them. One was scrap, one was borderline, so OK for a spare, and four were pretty reasonable, given their age. Countless hours with flap wheels, cup brushes and rust converter had the main four top-coat ready, so I offered one up to check the look. Oops, they're 100E with a 4.5" PCD. My tyre man was ready with my new rubber so I broke the habit of a lifetime, put my hand in my pocket, and bought five new 5.5J ones from John Brown Wheels with free next day delivery and a small but welcome 'end of line' discount. With the new rubber on the Phaeton's value doubled overnight!

Apparently wide 100E steels are a fave of hot rodders so, with luck, I might get my money back!

Regards, Mick
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  #23  
Old 7th August 2022, 15:00
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
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Hi Mick,

If you want to save "countless " hours prepping old wheels ready to paint, you can't beat having them shot blasted and powder coated . So many companies are doing it now, I bet there are several in Gloucester.
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  #24  
Old 7th August 2022, 15:07
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Default Sneak Peek



I'll be painting the rims silver and the nave plates in the main body colour, which will be a very dark green. If I can find my source picture I'll post it.

Regards, Mick

Here we go, I'll plump for a darker green, maybe BL Connaught Green, and flare the gold out around the nose .


Last edited by Mick O'Malley; 8th August 2022 at 13:21.. Reason: Oops!
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  #25  
Old 9th August 2022, 19:07
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Talking Bullet Bitten

Today, whilst pondering next steps and waiting for goodies from postie (no luck ), I decided to bite the bullet and remove the rear body. First job was to drill out the ten 4mm pop rivets securing the moulding to the frame. Attempting to lift it off resulted in zero movement - examination beneath revealed blacksmith style tank supports similar to the rear lower seat belt mounting one. To get the necessary access I jacked the back end high enough to get axle stands on their top setting in place, left the jack just touching the diff. and put a ratchet strap under the roll bar and over a roof beam for full belt and braces effect.



After a realistic effort at dislodging it, I felt comfortable with worming underneath armed with my decades old B&D angle grinder. The ends of one support, which looped under the tank, were fairly easily cut through (one side's biscuit strength weld to the frame parted under gravity), but the ends of the second, which ran across the tank's back, and was glassed and welded to it, were all but inaccessible. Persistence, and only one shattered cutting disc, eventually paid off . With assistance the moulding, c/w tank, was carried to join its GRP fellows tucked behind my front garden fence. The supports were then removed and the now completely skeletal rolling frame put to bed.



I think I'll now go the whole hog and take off the ally sides for my next small step.

Regards, Mick

Last edited by Mick O'Malley; 10th August 2022 at 07:27.. Reason: Typo.
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  #26  
Old 18th August 2022, 13:36
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Default Internet Woes Over - Fingers Crossed!

The super-helpful BT Openreach guy (who saw the Phaeton bodywork and told of his building a Melos in the 80s!) has just departed having fixed the strangled connection problem. Hurrah!.

So, in the last few days, since returning from my long weekend volunteering at the Adventure Travel Film Festival, I've been busy with drill and cold chisel attacking the myriad pop rivets attaching the ally sides to the frame. She's now a true skeleton .



I have quite a shopping list of bits and pieces so will be hitting Ebay next after my enforced absence.

Regards, Mick
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  #27  
Old 24th August 2022, 16:08
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Default This and that...

Yesterday, the first of my Phaeton related Ebay purchases arrived. The bushes are for the front ends of the leaf springs. The vendor listed them as Mk1 Escort but luckily included the dimensions which match Mk1/2 Cortina. I decided to go for round 7" headlamps rather than my preferred rectangular 2CV as multiple searches for the mounting bar proved fruitless.



The postman interrupted my fettling the Monaco in preparation for Saturday's Gloucester Goes Retro. The weather forecast is good so the turnout of cars should match that of previous years.




Postie has just delivered the bushes for the back end of the leaf springs so tomorrow I can get my hands dirty .

Regards, Mick
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  #28  
Old 8th September 2022, 22:46
Dpaz Dpaz is offline
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Just found you. I have been away a while. It's great to see your progress. Long covid is still slowing me down. Early specials were a bit iffy, Dexion was quite useful for structural things. and domestic wire often used.
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  #29  
Old 9th September 2022, 11:51
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redratbike redratbike is offline
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Mick what will you do with all the rivet holes ??
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  #30  
Old 12th September 2022, 14:31
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Default This and that...


Hi Dpaz, didn't realise you'd been laid low, best wishes for a full and speedy recovery!

Hi redratbike, when I tow the frame over to my welder for engine mountings, I'll ask him to put a blob in each side panel rivet hole as I'll be fitting new ally. I'll keep the GRP body mounting holes, drill them slightly oversize and use my lazy tongs for appropriately sized rivets.

After the Gloucester Goes Retro shenanigans, I had another camping weekend at The Overland Event near Oxford, so progress has been limited to cutting up my 1 1/2" angle for the seat belt mounting gismo and rivetting it together prior to welding - I need to do it this way as it has to fit very precisely between the frame cross members.



I got back from The Beaulieu Autojumble at about 2000 yesterday bearing my spoils, including, unusually, some car parts amongst the Biggles books and old magazines which I normally snag. I bought a pair of rear Armstrongs, new in their boxes for sixty quid, and a 3 x 2" instrument under dash mounting bracket - the twin of that I fitted to my original Phaeton (nostalgia rules!) for just three .

My internet woes were finally (hopefully) over this morning when I fitted my new fibre-friendly server, filter, and cable: it all seems lightning fast now!

Regards, Mick
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  #31  
Old 21st September 2022, 09:53
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Default I love the smell of Fertan in the morning...

After nine days of displacement activity, which included buying a Mk II Cortina fuel tank (as recommended by TD-W), I yesterday opened a can of motivation and buckled down to some rear end suspension work. I gently jacked up the nearside of the frame until I judged the tension had been taken out of the spring, and set to removing the drop links. They provided nil resistance as I'd long since given all foreseeable fixings a good dousing in dismantling liquid. I drifted out the old bushes then thoroughly wire brushed the eyes and drop links and gave them a coat of Fertan. I'd always used Kurust until I learned that Classic Land Rover owners swore by the former. Nuff said!



It can immediately be seen that the front eye then provided much stiffer resistance... The eye bolt came out easily - its nut is captive to the frame - but the bush's location is masked both ends by it. OK, I'll have to axle stand either the frame or the axle and jack the other until access to the bush is achieved. However, the shock absorber scuppered this plan so I set to removing same. The top was easy but the limited bottom clearance prevented a decent swing of the hammer onto the bolt end. OK, off with the wheel, spacer, shoes etc, then the back plate and half shaft. The bottom bolt steadfastly refused to budge despite blacksmith blows from my lump hammer so I decided to cut off the shocker at its bottom neck, then disc through the bolt. Hurrah, off at last!



I then fashioned a puller from threaded rod, nuts, washers and my biggest socket, purchased forty odd years ago for Mini top swivels, which succeeded in dragging out the metal centre of the bush. By this time the cave was like an oven so I called it a day. I'm sure the other side will prove much easier with the experience gained!

Regards, Mick
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  #32  
Old 22nd September 2022, 08:41
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Lightbulb Lazy people take the most pains...

With 'only' the remains of the front bush to remove, I began the day with hopes of good progress. Wrong! I decided to remove the rubber portion by drilling some big holes then levering out the remains. However the bit tore straight in and rolled itself around against the metal sleeve, tearing the rubber away in seconds. I decided to cut a slit in the sleeve with my smallest cold chisel (yet another Machine Mart purchase). Even with the spring clamped to the frame I could barely get the cut started due to its awkward location. I resorted to what I now know I should have done in the first place - remove the spring . With it lying on the concrete slab it proved simple to chop through, bend the edges and knock it out.



Neglected domestic tasks dictated a swift tidy up and a halt to proceedings.

Regards, Mick
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  #33  
Old 25th September 2022, 07:41
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Default Quick update.

After a busy Friday, I returned to the cave and tackled the remaining doable L rear suspension tasks. The jumbo socket proved the perfect drift for knocking in the front bush, and likewise my home made puller for the rear ones. I ran a die down the U bolt threads before refitting the spring to the axle. It was a bit of a fiddle as they had spread a little and needed to be compressed parallel for fitting the spring's baseplate. I used my water pump pliers in one hand whilst slipping on the baseplate with the other - fiddly but effective. Back on with the half shaft etc. and that side was done, bar the shock absorber, for whose bottom eye I'll need a new bolt.

Learning from my nearside stupidity, I jacked up the offside and whipped off the spring in no time ready for today's efforts. With impeccable timing the nice man then appeared with my Ebay purchased three point harnesses, which look absolutely mint and a snip at fifty quid the pair inc. postage. Result!



The positioning of the nuts welded on as four point top fixings is suspect, unless both he (she?) and prospective passengers were of bizarre morphology. I'll chisel or disc them off for repositioning of the two now required.

Regards, Mick
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  #34  
Old 2nd October 2022, 08:48
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Question Whingeing, despair, and a question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick O'Malley View Post

I got back from The Beaulieu Autojumble at about 2000 yesterday bearing my spoils, I bought a pair of rear Armstrongs, new in their boxes for sixty quid.
When I built my first Phaeton, (bought new) in the 80s, I already had a scrap Spitfire for the front end gubbins. I bought a running 1300 Mk2 Cortina for 25 quid (those were the days!) for the back end. I'd got to the stage in my current build when fitting the above shockers was appropriate. Imagine my dismay when I discovered that the bottom bracket on the axle took a 1/2" diameter bolt whereas the shock had only a much slimmer bush. I found a super helpful bloke on Ebay who measured the Capri shock bolts he had for sale which proved correct. I bought and test fitted a pair.



The axle, rather than being the Mk 1/2 Cortina item I imagined, turns out to be from a RWD Escort. OK, I'll ask if Escort shocks will fit a Mk 2 Phaeton in a post on the Dutton Group on FB. I got a good few unhelpful replies, none of which answered the question . OK, I'll post again in words of one syllable to see if any other members can read English. No further replies were forthcoming .

So, bottom line is does any of you knowledgeable chaps know if RWD Escort rear shocks are of similar length to Mk1/2 Cortina ones?

Regards, Mick
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  #35  
Old 2nd October 2022, 09:05
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Talking Prop and diff.

Quick p.s. In the interim I've managed to source a Hillman Avenger prop. shaft (it shares its gearbox with the Talbot Sunbeam 930) for 30 quid to be collected from Leics, a nice drive up the Fosseway in the offing . Also, a 4.1 diff (same ratio as that fitted to the 930) for 200, collection from Daventry, an OK distance.

Once my rear suspension woes are resolved, I'm looking forward to fettling the uber familiar small chassis Triumph front end .

Regards, Mick
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  #36  
Old 8th October 2022, 14:17
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Exclamation Why wait?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick O'Malley View Post
Once my rear suspension woes are resolved, I'm looking forward to fettling the uber familiar small chassis Triumph front end .
Whilst mentally bemoaning the non-arrival of the shackle rubbers I'd ordered on 25 Sept., I decided to simply re-locate the rear spring pro tem with the bolts only. Seized with a fit of enthusiasm I rolled her backwards and attacked the front end. Everything came apart like a dream, and was stowed in my shed ready for winter refurbishment. I have quite a few suitable new bits and bobs which came with my Mk1 Marlin Roadster a good many years ago. They did come in useful one day!

Next job was to fit the tow bar to my Honda Jazz so I could deliver the frame to my go-to guy of 40 years at Woodchester for all the welding jobs. This was fiddly and time consuming but I knocked it off in half a day. Here's a picture of my famous 'Dutton Towing Gismo' strapped to the frame ready for action. Primitive though it is, I've used it to rescue a good half dozen Phaetons/B Types back in the 80s and 90s when I was mad keen - my longest tow being 125 miles from Brighton. Happy Days.



Anyone dismayed at the ratchet strap attachment will be reassured that this is a first, on all previous occasions I used sundry bits of blue nylon rope...

I'm off to Porthcurno for a week on Tuesday so no updates for a while.

Regards Mick
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  #37  
Old 27th October 2022, 17:02
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Thumbs up What a diff-erence a day makes.

Yesterday, after a few abortive attempts at finding a mutually acceptable pick up venue and date, I motored through the sunny Autumnal countryside to Daventry, about 90 miles, and picked up my 4.1 diff. The vendor had some interesting vehicles: a stock car; a Cologne engined S4 Phaeton; and a Moggie pick-up. After chatting cars for a good while the diff. (in a kindly supplied bin) was loaded into the front footwell whereupon I pootled home well pleased with this vital purchase .



If next week's prop. shaft collection from Leicester goes half as well I'll be delighted.

Regards, Mick
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  #38  
Old 27th October 2022, 17:57
Mitchelkitman Mitchelkitman is offline
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I had a diff failure on my Rickman about 4 years ago. I slowed for a speed hump on a private road, and there was no drive. Car was in gear ..... Hmm... I got out and looked underneath to see the prop turning merrily
After the AA collection I got home and jacked one side - turned the elevated road wheel and the prop turned. repeated with the other side and the same happened. When I removed the prop and diff I half expected there to be a few bits falling out, but it all looked good. With no real load on it the oil stiction must have been enough for things to turn as if normal when I tested it. I scoured the Country unsuccessfully, and then a very helpful Old Ford specialist directed me to a Rally restorer just 2 miles away from me, who I'd never known about. He promised a replacement the next day. Further inspection revealed all 6 ring gear retaining bolts were broken.during which time I'd ascertained the existing one could be fixed with some new (same as flywheel) bolts. I still bought the replacement as it would have been morally wrong to refuse the purchase. The Rally Specialist had never seen such a failure despite the huge BHP they put through their diffs!
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  #39  
Old 4th November 2022, 16:38
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Talking Shocking, in a good way

After spending a good deal of fruitless time on various websites and FB groups I decided I should bite the bullet and buy likely looking rear shock absorbers 'Returns Accepted'. Serendipitously, after a chat with my super helpful independent parts supplier - a Mk1 Capri fan - I ordered a pair for that model and they fitted perfectly. Bingo! Excuse the wobbly low light picture, the best I could do at dusk.



In a fit of enthusiasm I also lashed out 124 quid on brushing enamel: 2.5l of Goodwood Green and 1L of Bahama Gold. I plumped for this thoroughly retro option as I also brush painted my first Phaeton - Retro Rules! 'The Look'.



Regards, Mick
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  #40  
Old 8th November 2022, 16:33
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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Thumbs up Bingo!

These rather uninspiring bits of decades old metal lurking on my workbench in the late Autumn sunshine are, in fact, the holy grail! They're the engine mounting brackets which bolt to the sides of the Imp derived engine, and to which the rubbers are attached.

My search for these elusive items began with enquiry of the Hillman Avenger Talbot Sunbeam HATS cars FB group, which drew a blank, but threw up a link to the FB Talbot Sunbeam and Avengers parts group. A little lateral thinking by a member brought the suggestion that I should try the FB Hillman Imp group, as the Sunbeam engines lend themselves to conversion back to their parent, and someone might have a pair of now redundant brackets high on a dusty garage shelf. This proved to be the case and a super helpful chap in N. Ireland not only dug them out, but posted them to me 1st Class for a very reasonable sum. Result!



With only the prop. shaft (for hybridising) left to collect next week, and a compatible speedo, which I'm tracking on Ebay, major parts sourcing difficulties should be largely over - famous last words!

I'm off to the Classic Car Show at the NEC on Friday where I can touch base with possible helpful contacts.

Regards, Mick
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