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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds

Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build.

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  #1  
Old 12th July 2011, 18:55
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morris morris is offline
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Default Dampers & brake servo and other parts

evening all, a few bits of advice needed on new parts if possible?

- does anyone have the part number for the metro servo I need. Marlin sell for ~£200 but Mark told me for that kind of thing, it's better for me to source it direct. There's loads second hand on ebay so I was hoping to save a few quid.

- any advice out there on which rear dampers to get. I'd like adjustable so Spax or GAZ are the obvious choices but not sure if I need shorter ones or standard donor length. I've also been looking at coil overs to remove the question mark over the separate springs as no-one's really had any luck finding the right height ones. I know Patrick did this but has to modify the chassis to accomodate.

- I'll need to get a new Clutch master cylinder. Is this just the standard BMW part or are there cheaper/alternative options. Again Marlin offer for ~£100 but this is bound to be a readily available part.

- Which Radiator? Mark told me they supply this but it's not included on the price list. As the donor one (binned) has the expansion tank built in I'll need to source that separately too

thanks in advance, Ian
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Available from eBay
  #2  
Old 12th July 2011, 19:12
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MartinClan MartinClan is offline
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I think there is only one model of Metro servo - keep watching ebay as new old stock ones come up regularly. I have a spare 2nd hand one one if you get desperate. Depending on what master cylinder you use you may have to make a little spacer for the pushrod as it was about 6mm too short on my build.

I used Gaz adjustable dampers at the back. Standard E30 fitment.

Clutch master cylinder was the standard BMW bit As I remember - pretty cheap from one of the "Eurospares" places. Unless Marlin have redesigned it you might want to think about re-enforcing the pedal box around the clutch cylinder area. It - err - can flex rather a lot.

I used a standard early E30 rad. I fitted it as high as possible so that the core gets the maximum exposure to the airflow. The standard Marlin brackets mount it a bit low IMHO. I also used a standard E30 expansion tank and hoses. (Cut n shut a bit) I fitted the biggest electric fan I could. Never has any issues with overheating despite being parked on the M25 for several hours!

Happy building

Robin
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  #3  
Old 12th July 2011, 21:19
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peterux peterux is offline
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Hi Ian,
here's my two pennyworth...

1. Metro Servo : ditto Robin's comments above
2. I used standard non-adjustable shocks. This is the lowest cost option. If you can afford it and want adjustable, I'd look for some adjustable shocks designed for a lowered e36. That way you won't have a problem with them bottoming out.
3. Clutch master cylinder. I used the standard e30 part but I notice your pedal box is a different design to the pedal box for the e30 based cars. Looks like yours is designed for one with two mounting bolts. I don't know what the make or part number, but there is a picture of it in the build manual CD.
4. I used a BMW M10 radiator and like Robin, the largest fan I could fit and it works fine, but I've only got a measly 2.0 litre engine :-(.
I think my expansion tank is a Ford part?

cheers, Peter

Just done bit of googling and I'm pretty sure its one of these..

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/pr...edium=Shopping

but I don't know what size bore you need.

Last edited by peterux; 12th July 2011 at 21:34.. Reason: additional info
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Old 12th July 2011, 22:12
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Thanks all,

I think this must be the master cylinder Peter

http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p5...duct_info.html

as the Marlin price list mentions 0.75 (didn't mean much to me at the time)

I'll get on and source a cheap metro servo then.
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Old 13th July 2011, 06:52
timbo timbo is offline
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Hi Ian
I sourced my metro servo from the local scrapyard so that may be another option?
Tim
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Old 13th July 2011, 16:41
NigelB NigelB is offline
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Ian

For the servo check out eBay item no. 200625801555. The one I used was from the same supplier and had the part no. LR10095. It was brand new and cost me £30. But as yet, unproven.

I used one of the clutch Master cylinders from CBS online. I think I used the 3/4" one but of course I don't know how it feels yet.

I've used standard E36 Spax adjustable dampers on the back. They seem to be OK, but once again they're not yet tested.

And I've got a radiator from an E30 318. It's for the M10 engine and the plan is to use the biggest fan possible and lots of vents in the body panels to keep the air flowing.

Nigel
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Old 13th July 2011, 18:39
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I was looking at that servo on ebay at lunch time too as the price looks good but wasn't sure whether it was the right one to bid on, will give it a go as it looks in pretty good nick.

cheers
Ian
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Old 14th July 2011, 23:06
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Rear coil overs on mine are almost slightly too short. I plan on putting a space in at some point. Works very well in this configuration - just needed to make a bit more room in the shock towers.

I found the M10 rad to be completely inadequate with a 12cm fan. I now have a much thicker ali rad sourced from eBay normally used on hot rods with a 16cm fan. I have no issues at all with heat now. I don't have vents down the sides but I do have them at the back of he bonnet.
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Old 15th July 2011, 09:11
denniswpearce denniswpearce is offline
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I will have to measure my fan as I am not so confident that my fan can cope with the heat generated, it cuts in just fine but I am not confident.
Lifting the bonnet I find the engine is enormously hot, would not want to touch it, also do not have the vents in the bonnet. Don't know what difference they make.
I attended my local motoring club last night and one of the guys said if I was worried about overheating then just add a teed circuit with a manual switch so that you can activate the fan manually from inside the car if you are worried about it overheating. A simple solution I thought.
Any thoughts anyone ?
Dennis
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  #10  
Old 15th July 2011, 13:55
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I have the standard M10 rad hooked up to my 2.5 litre lump, and it's cooled by a Pacet 13" puller fan, which according to the Pacet website (when I bought it) is good for 1390 cubic feet of air per minute.

The fan is controlled by a normal capillary tube thermostatic switch, which is currently set to the 'normal' position. I'm going to play with that, as the fan does cut in fairly soon - but that said, i've never seen the temp get past 88-90 degrees.

I think the standard radiator is fine - you just need the biggest fan that shifts the most air you can find, that will fit the rad and clear the pulleys and belts on the front of the block.

http://www.pacet.co.uk/
http://www.pacet.co.uk/13inchpacets.php
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