250 coupe contemporary

[Jeff H]

Horses for courses i guess,

If you own an old cheap snotter, you might as well bung old cheap paint on it,
as you spend more on your build it makes sense to spend a bit more on final fit and finish.

[Mister Towed]

Originally Posted by Jeff H

Horses for courses i guess,

If you own an old cheap snotter, you might as well bung old cheap paint on it,
as you spend more on your build it makes sense to spend a bit more on final fit and finish.

With my apologies to everyone else on the forum I seem to have provoked a troll.

The point of this forum for me is to share ideas, show others what I'm doing with my home built cars and marvel at the spectacular results some people can achieve with limited resources but a strong vision and some artistic/mechanical talent.

So I feel it's a shame when someone comes along who resorts to name calling - bell end, for example - simply because someone else disagrees with his viewpoint.

And it really isn't acceptable on a hobby kit car forum to insult someone else's car, even if you hate it, especially as we have yet to see any of your own cars. Unless that 928(?) was yours, of course, in which case you need to be posting on the Porsche owners club forum, not a kit car site.

I'm guessing from what you've posted about the 250 you're about to spray that your interest in this site is professional, to promote the idea that you've got to spend four to five thousand pounds having your car professionally sprayed or you'll be ashamed to drive it in public, and you just happen to know someone who can do the job. For a price.

Thank you for your input Jeff - the professional who chooses to criticise the amateur for being an amateur on an amateur forum -I shall wish you well in your business and say goodbye.

[Barber]

The point of forums like this is to share experiences, glean information and allow kit car builders make informed choices.

The case for both diy as well as professional painting have been made, and a lot more clarity about pricing g and quality has emerged. I thank you all for the informative and entertaining debate. Challenging the value added is justifiable. It has been stated a couple of times that you get what you pay for. It helps to know exactly what that is.

[Jaguartvr]

I think the pictures of Mr Towed's car and Jeff H's pictured just after being painted highlights the differences between home and professional painting standards. This is what the forum is about, to give builders hints and tips.

I'm trying to do mine on the cheap but most 250swb builders are going to be spending £4>£5k on the kit, 2k ish on a donor another £1>£3k on all the goodies including lights and wheels. So I would imagine most people would want a quality paint job to finish it off properly. Andy Shamrock has done a couple of very nice builds and the last one went straight up for sale at what I would imagine was a reasonable profit. Some of the early 250GTO kits have been on Ebay with shabby paint jobs at very low prices.

This applies for the Tribute kits, obviously the Sammio kits are much cheaper to buy, maybe this is why you may want a cheaper paint job, but if you post about Sammio kits in the Tribute build area at every opportunity you may get different opinions posted.
Saying that, it's a brave man who posts a picture of himself whilst wearing a bandana!

Chris seems to be busier than ever and his delivery time is getting longer. I feel this is partly due to Newbodies finished cars, give him his due, the finished cars look very good and I think have pushed them up a notch. I wasn't really ready to go ahead with mine but I could see demand growing, with Stoneleigh and a build in kit car magazine coming up I could see the waiting list extending greatly. Newbody is booked out for 2>3 months ahead so it seems people do want a nicely finished product. Can't wait to see Eric's.

[Mister Towed]

At risk of another thread hijack, the difference in finish immediately after paint between 2 pack and cellulose is almost certainly down to the type of paint. 2 pack is shiny straight out of the gun and just needs lacquer to finish I am led to believe. Cellulose has to be flatted back and polished as it has a slightly matt finish out of the gun, even a professional one.

From my research prior to choosing a paint system, 2 pack is much harder wearing and far more fade resistant, but flaws in the spraying and damage after painting is much harder (impossible?) to fix once it's cured. It's also highly toxic and can't be passively filtered out - you must have a pressurised air supply mask to spray 2 pack or you'll quite possibly die (on a separate matter I did some research about young drivers involved in fatal collisions a few years back so had access to the ONS figures for all recorded deaths by age, gender and cause. In 2012 three people were killed by their dishwashers after slipping and falling onto forks in the cutlery rack, but almost two hundred people died from unintentional inhalation of toxic paint fumes).

With cellulose you can sand out runs and flaws and it's (apparently) quite easy to blend in new paint with old after repairs or alterations (I'll be attempting just that in a week or so), but it's easier to chip or scratch and needs regular cutting and/or polishing to keep it looking good throughout its life.

My decision to go with cellulose was quite an easy one to make as I could spray it myself at home, I anticipated that there may be settling cracks in the body that would need attention later (I've only had the one, but I have made some mods recently that'll need blending in), and the finish matches that on racing cars from the period my car appears to be from because 2 pack hadn't been invented then. If you don't believe that just go to the pits at Goodwood Revival and take a look at some of the blow-over paint jobs that those old racers have.

As for Tributes being more expensive kits than Sammio's were, hence the difference in opinions expressed, that's true to a certain extent, but Tribute also make budget kits like the A352, D Type and Mistral, all of which are much closer to the price and ethos of the original Sammio Spyder, and Scottie has admirably shown what can be achieved on a budget build with a Tribute kit.

Best of luck finding the right paint for your own car JagTvr, and I'm looking forward to seeing Barber's contemporary take on the Coupe come together too.

Oh, and if I'm thinking of the right pic regarding the bandana, it was actually a backwards facing flat cap in best boy-band stylee.

[Barber]

I do not mind what thread these issues get aired on. Just so long as the debate does not get it locked.

[Barber]

Also, it may not end up being a coup if Chris can do me a hybrid.

[Mister Towed]

Originally Posted by Barber

Also, it may not end up being a coup if Chris can do me a hybrid.

Surrey top/targa?

[Roadster]

Originally Posted by Barber

Also, it may not end up being a coup if Chris can do me a hybrid.

Chris can make you a hybrid.
But he is busy, not sure how much the magazine articles lend to this as most don't promote the manufacturer.

A steady flow of swb's, gto's, zagmads special, the 275 ,mxico and my humble creation are all on the production list at the moment.

Not to mention the other hot rods and customs that are created alongside.

Next years Stoneleigh will having some interesting additions.

[Mark Burton]

Maybe it's worth opening a new thread specifically aimed at prep and finishing from the professional or experienced contributors on this site. It would be particularly useful on a Tribute as it would be really specific.

Could show what grades of abrasives to use from initial blocking down of the gelcoat to filler or stopper repairs and what it needs to look like before primer. There's plenty of library images, which show the effects of later issues, such as laying high build primer over 80 grit scratches, or paint not adhering and chipping or peeling off and these are are relative be it cellulose or 2k paint is used.

Could take it right back to basics showing de-greasing of panels at the start, what materials and abrasives are best used, wet flatting techniques with guide coats and how pin holes, or hair line fractures are repaired during preparation.

A better understanding of the whole process can only make the job more enjoyable by anyone building one of these cars and maybe give a better understanding for the cost of labour or materials if it's being done by others.

Prep could be common for either paint type and perhaps separate sections for Celly or 2k with pro's and cons for either. Again, it could show panel cleaning, de-greasing, masking, tacking off inbetween coats, flash off times, paint mixing ratios, spray gun set up and on and on, right up to flatting, polishing and final fit and finish.

[Barber]

Originally Posted by Mark Burton

Maybe it's worth opening a new thread specifically aimed at prep and finishing from the professional or experienced contributors on this site. It would be particularly useful on a Tribute as it would be really specific.

Could show what grades of abrasives to use from initial blocking down of the gelcoat to filler or stopper repairs and what it needs to look like before primer. There's plenty of library images, which show the effects of later issues, such as laying high build primer over 80 grit scratches, or paint not adhering and chipping or peeling off and these are are relative be it cellulose or 2k paint is used.

Could take it right back to basics showing de-greasing of panels at the start, what materials and abrasives are best used, wet flatting techniques with guide coats and how pin holes, or hair line fractures are repaired during preparation.

A better understanding of the whole process can only make the job more enjoyable by anyone building one of these cars and maybe give a better understanding for the cost of labour or materials if it's being done by others.

Prep could be common for either paint type and perhaps separate sections for Celly or 2k with pro's and cons for either. Again, it could show panel cleaning, de-greasing, masking, tacking off inbetween coats, flash off times, paint mixing ratios, spray gun set up and on and on, right up to flatting, polishing and final fit and finish.

This, ^^^ Please

[Barber]

Originally Posted by Mister Towed

Surrey top/targa?

At present I am thinking cobra back, narrowed swb front and a std z3 top, but, targa, there's an idea.

[Jeff H]

Originally Posted by Mister Towed

With my apologies to everyone else on the forum I seem to have provoked a troll.

The point of this forum for me is to share ideas, show others what I'm doing with my home built cars and marvel at the spectacular results some people can achieve with limited resources but a strong vision and some artistic/mechanical talent.

So I feel it's a shame when someone comes along who resorts to name calling - bell end, for example - simply because someone else disagrees with his viewpoint.

And it really isn't acceptable on a hobby kit car forum to insult someone else's car, even if you hate it, especially as we have yet to see any of your own cars. Unless that 928(?) was yours, of course, in which case you need to be posting on the Porsche owners club forum, not a kit car site.

I'm guessing from what you've posted about the 250 you're about to spray that your interest in this site is professional, to promote the idea that you've got to spend four to five thousand pounds having your car professionally sprayed or you'll be ashamed to drive it in public, and you just happen to know someone who can do the job. For a price.

Thank you for your input Jeff - the professional who chooses to criticise the amateur for being an amateur on an amateur forum -I shall wish you well in your business and say goodbye.

No Trolling here,

You are happy to offend people who paint cars for a living, but typically you can't take any your self.

I did look at your close up pics of your car and as I have said before if you are happy with it then fair enough.

As for you trying to work out how many cars a year i paint and what my earnings are it really does show how pathetic you are.

My work shop is busy all year round, I am certainly not looking at this forum with a view to getting any work from it, in fact I am booked up a a month or so in advance most of the time.

And for the record i did not call you a Bell end, I actually said saying what you said makes you sound like one.

[Lucky@LeMans]

Originally Posted by Jeff H

No Trolling here,

You are happy to offend people who paint cars for a living, but typically you can't take any your self.

I did look at your close up pics of your car and as I have said before if you are happy with it then fair enough.

As for you trying to work out how many cars a year i paint and what my earnings are it really does show how pathetic you are.

My work shop is busy all year round, I am certainly not looking at this forum with a view to getting any work from it, in fact I am booked up a a month or so in advance most of the time.

And for the record i did not call you a Bell end, I actually said saying what you said makes you sound like one.

I thought we had moved on from all this name calling and s***.

Moderators please remove this Jeff H joker.

[Jaguartvr]

I've had a test panel of the tour de france blue done but it's a bit flat and lifeless, I was expecting a bit more sparkle. I'm now leaning towards Triumph (motorcycle) Pacific blue, I've painted a few bikes in this colour and has a nice understated sparkle. Just hope the paint supplier can match it. The paint supplier I use works out to £49 for 250ml delivered! But they are the only company I have found who can match the original colours.

Pacific blue over fusion white


unless of course I change my mind again

[Jeff H]

Originally Posted by Lucky@LeMans

I thought we had moved on from all this name calling and s***.

Moderators please remove this Jeff H joker.

Not really your decision is it ?

But thanks for the input, more than happy to let this rest, however when a person who has no real experience in a field that he comments on he shouldn't be surprised when he gets pulled up on it.

[Barber]

So, this isn't contemporary and it isn't really a SWB. The front and top are what I am after. The rear is kobra, but as this is my first paint attempt, the crude line down the arch represents the bulge and the scribble hides the rear vent on the SWB.

Kind of what I am after as an alternative though. Ideally, the top would taper down slightly at the rear so that it isn't so obviously Z3. But I could live with that.

[Barber]

Does anyone have a side on - level photo of a kobra? If so, please could you post it?

[Barber]

Does anyone know whose this Kobra is, or who built it? I am keen to find out about the hard top fitting, whether any modifications were needed or not. The corner by the door looks like it has been cut away, but I am not sure.

[Lucky@LeMans]

I'm sure the current owner has been on here in the last two or three months. Try the Kobra threads.