Barry Mays Sammio Spyder Build.... - Page 2

Psycho pops · #21 9th January 2012, 18:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by lancelot link

I like the opening to the scoop- cut back slightly with a bevelled front lip and the mounting flange......

How do you form this lip, is it in the fiberglass or formed in filler
Cheers Pops

lancelot link · #22 9th January 2012, 19:12

BIT OF BOTH REALLY.....Mike laid up the scoop extra thick as he knew he wanted to radius it with the sander, and then some fine fettling with filler as well....

Mister Towed · #23 9th January 2012, 20:22

Yep, looking Fab...

ricated.

Psycho pops · #24 9th January 2012, 20:28

Im not listening

lancelot link · #25 12th January 2012, 18:55

Battery box went in today and some chassis repairs under the new bulkhead....previous guy had cut a bit too much off !

Barry has an aluminium battery box that I have hung off his bulkhead using a box section cradle ....Mike reinforced the bulkhead from behind.
Ally lid now adorns it as well....

Mike also started to hang the second door and is about 2/3's done....

Will update tomorrow with pictures of both doors hung.

lancelot link · #26 15th January 2012, 15:01

Pictures of Barry's Battery box fitted ...

Also pictures of the under bonnet bracing and fitting of the recessed fuel cap in the head fairing....still work to do but its started...

mulberry · #27 16th January 2012, 13:35

not sure about fuel cap, strange place....

davecymru · #28 16th January 2012, 15:31

Underbody bracing! Now that's what i've forgotten and it would cure my bonnet flexing a treat! <doh!>

Now where did i put the fibreglass?

garyh · #29 16th January 2012, 15:41

Do you cut some ply and cover in fibreglass?

MikeD · #30 16th January 2012, 17:33

Where does that great side pipe come from - I LIKE THAT

lancelot link · #31 17th January 2012, 18:49

Gary ...we cut a hockey stick from 6mm ply by using the body bulkhead as a template....hold the ply against the bulkhead and draw a line from top of bulkhead to bottom , this gives you the curve ...draw a parallel line about 3'' in to give you the section.

This then fits inside the bonnet as shown and should keep your lower wing at the right profile to match the bulkhead....hold it in place with a little body filler , hot glue gun , sikkoflex etc. and then glass fibre both sides ...we wrapped it totally but you won't do it in one go , glass both sides and just fold about an inch over the top both times....this will then be sanded to remove splinters before paint.

lancelot link · #32 17th January 2012, 18:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeD

Where does that great side pipe come from - I LIKE THAT

Not sure Mike but a customer said they thought it was an Ebay purchase as they had seen them on there...

Mister Towed · #33 17th January 2012, 19:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by lancelot link

Gary ...we cut a hockey stick from 6mm ply by using the body bulkhead as a template....hold the ply against the bulkhead and draw a line from top of bulkhead to bottom , this gives you the curve ...draw a parallel line about 3'' in to give you the section.

This then fits inside the bonnet as shown and should keep your lower wing at the right profile to match the bulkhead....hold it in place with a little body filler , hot glue gun , sikkoflex etc. and then glass fibre both sides ...we wrapped it totally but you won't do it in one go , glass both sides and just fold about an inch over the top both times....this will then be sanded to remove splinters before paint.

I had planned to bond a metal reinforcing strip into my bonnet but this is a priceless tip. Mine will definitely be wearing ply-glass strengthening fillets when I get to that bit.

lancelot link · #34 17th January 2012, 19:16

just make sure you mount it far enough forward to avoid the bulkhead but not to close to the wheel....ours sits against the inner arch at the bottom and leans forward slightly in the closed position to make sure it clears ok...

garyh · #35 30th January 2012, 20:54

Must be due for an update

jmc14 · #36 30th January 2012, 21:14

When I need to make a stiffening piece for a door, trunk, bonnet, I use foam tubing that is used to insulate pipes. Is is available in a variety of sizes. I glue it where I want to lay it. Then fiberglass over the foam. in my experience this creates the perfect "channel" support.

One thing, when you glass in any support you want to avoid using tight right angle lay ups. When the glass cures it will pull on the exterior of the part. The result is that you will end up with a line on the finished side that you will be able to see. If you give the lay up a good radius it will eliminate this.

Not saying this is what Gary is doing. Just sharing from my experience.

Mister Towed · #37 31st January 2012, 07:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmc14

When I need to make a stiffening piece for a door, trunk, bonnet, I use foam tubing that is used to insulate pipes. Is is available in a variety of sizes. I glue it where I want to lay it. Then fiberglass over the foam. in my experience this creates the perfect "channel" support.
.

Excellent idea.

That's why I love this forum, there's always someone who's been there and done that when challenges crop up.

lancelot link · #38 23rd February 2012, 21:26

We have started moulding Barry's tail fin.

These are going to be moulded in two halves bonded together with a ply insert , they will be a decent weight and will have an inch wide flange along the bottom to bond/rivet etc the panel on.....

picture of mould below.... The flange around it is mould only - fins will be smaller than shown !!

mould will be released tomorrow , cleaned up , prepped and hopefully gel'd to get Barry's actual fin made.

Mister Towed · #39 24th February 2012, 08:27

Have you angled the fin up into the air-stream like the D type jags Gary? Or is that just a hopticul collusion?

lancelot link · #40 25th February 2012, 14:26

Slightly upwards as per all my reference pics !