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Marlin Sportster, Cabrio, Berlinetta and Roadster builds Enthused or Confused about your vintage Marlin build? Ask away here or show off your build. |
5th October 2009, 18:56
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Well I have completed the wipers and washers which I think is the last "mechanical" job. Car will be coming off the road soon for the winter when I hope to complete the trim and paint it. Yes - I might be foolhardy - but I am going to attempt to paint it myself.
More pics of the windscreen wipers and washers here. http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/martinclan/pictures12.htm
Robin
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7th October 2009, 06:58
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Hi,
I fitted 4 point seatbelts with an inertia real that required a bracket to move the seatbelt mounting point forward from the rear chassis rail. I made the bracket and going for a belts and braces method put a 3/8 bolt through the rear chassis rail which went into a spreader plate on the underside.
My tame welder did a neat job despite being only and inch or so from the fuel tank. He used some heatproff shield to make sure none of the weld splattered onto the tank. Its fairly agricultural out here in Sommerset too.
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7th October 2009, 07:17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Cussen
Hi,
I fitted 4 point seatbelts with an inertia real that required a bracket to move the seatbelt mounting point forward from the rear chassis rail. I made the bracket and going for a belts and braces method put a 3/8 bolt through the rear chassis rail which went into a spreader plate on the underside.
My tame welder did a neat job despite being only and inch or so from the fuel tank. He used some heatproff shield to make sure none of the weld splattered onto the tank. Its fairly agricultural out here in Sommerset too.
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Any pictures Chris? I was going to do the same and even got as far as buying the seat belts, but I found that the reels fouled on the rear tub. I still have the seat belts and, if your mod is simple, would like to retro-fit them. Static 4 point seatbelts are a pain at times....
Robin
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7th October 2009, 08:50
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I'll try to post a photo some time this evening.
Somewhere somebody had a tutorial of how to embed photos in the post rather than as attachments. Anyone remeber where?
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7th October 2009, 08:59
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Found the example, just testing
[IMG]=http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=184&d=1253729535[/IMG]
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7th October 2009, 08:59
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Bum!
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8th October 2009, 10:23
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Welding isn't the neatest. The bar is 4cm by 4mm which is about as thick as the stuff they use on aftermarket brackets used to lower the position of a ordinary seatbelt top mount.
Any force will be essentially along the bracket so if it does bend in a shunt it may move up only a few mm.
The bolt securing the inertial reel goes into a plated nut that is welded to the underside of the bracket. At the rear the bracket is welded to the chassis and a long bolt goes right through the chassis rail to a plated and welded nut on the underside. IVA man didn't make any comment about the security of the fitting.
I've also made a cover to go over the belts so that stuff floating around in the boot does not jam it
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8th October 2009, 12:26
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Thanks Chris
Seems to be pretty much the same arrangment as the Sportster. I will think about doing something similar when the tub comes off for painting (The Sportster doesn't have the luxury of an opening boot!)
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8th October 2009, 14:19
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I'v changed the first photo, it wasn't supposed to be of a nut. I'm going to tidy up when the tub comes off for painting....
That should be in exactly two weeks.
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17th October 2009, 17:01
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I have restarted the trim. My first attempt at a door card. Not too bad (even if I do say so myself ;-) )
Few more pics here http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/martinclan/pictures13.htm
Robin
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18th October 2009, 12:34
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Very Smart!
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29th November 2009, 17:27
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Well the trim is progressing (very) slowly. I completed a prototype of a "centre Console" today that sits on top of the transmission tunnel. It provides a handy oddments tray and a simple way to fix the handbrake and gearstick trims. Also made in such a way that access to the handbrake adjustment is easy.
It sits just above the transmission tunnel on blocks so I can easily get the carpet underneath. As it covers almost the entire top it also means that all I need to do is cover the sides with carpet.
Why is it a prototype? Well once I fixed it in position I found that I couldn't engage reverse gear - oops.... Oh well it will be easier next time round.
Car interior is looking very black ATM. I think I may have to change the carpet to brighten things up a bit.
Robin
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29th November 2009, 17:37
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looking good, all you need is a hatch in the floor then you can "flintstone" when you need to go backwards
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30th November 2009, 07:20
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Looks good. Who needs reverse anyway! Onwards!!
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9th December 2009, 17:51
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center console
center console lookiing great..what material did you do the sides with?looks nicely curved.
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10th December 2009, 15:55
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It's made of 9mm ply then covered with leathercloth. I just radiused the sides using a course grade abrasive paper using a "sesaw" action. It soon shapes up - you just have to be careful to get the same shape along the whole edge.
Robin
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11th December 2009, 14:59
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console
thanks robin, have just made one, and covering it this weekend-hope it looks as neat as yours.
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4th January 2010, 12:48
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Very nice it's a job I still need to do!
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19th January 2010, 15:30
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Headunits normally have their own propitiatory connector on the back. They come with a loom that goes from that do an industry standard ISO connector.
Some units have these iso connector on the back, if your lucky that may be the case, otherwise you'll need to source a new loom.
ISO connectors look like this:
The black one (left) is for power, remote on, dimming, earth etc and the brown one (right) is for speaker connections. Very often these are all in one plug like the left plug on this:
EDIT: You can get an iso connector in halford if it fits then just chop it up
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20th January 2010, 08:41
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Thanks Patrick
It has an ISO connector - I took your advice and got one from Halfrauds.
The Blaupukt CD player is rather good even though is is an old model. It plays MP3's, has an Aux connection and the option of a remote. The dinky winky 4" speakers soon struggle though.
Next step is to see if I can split the head unit off without destroying the whole thing. If it looks not do-able I will see if I can get a remote instead.
Kind regards
Robin
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