Advice please: Can this paint defect have localised correction?

[smash]

The rear end of my car has been repainted because of two different types of defect in the original spraying.

For some reason, rather than spraying completely into the door shuts, the painter has masked off at the body/door shut line join leaving a very visible and raised paint lip all the way down to the cill.

To make matters worse they have been a bit over eager with the mop at the top of the arch curve (unfotunately most visible point) and burned through into the original paint on the wing top. Unfortunately it's clearly visible with the door shut.



This is very disappointing obviously especially as the rest of the car looks very good.

My question is can anything be done to rectify this without blowing in a big section/the whole rear arch? Some sort of localised repair?

the paint is Jet Black basecoat with 2k lacquer

The car is now at a loss to the builder and so they have refused to perform any further remedial work so this is not an option.

Although some of you will know already, can I ask that the builder not be named, I'm just looking to resolve this and would like to keep the thread open and civil.

I'd appreciate any and all advice, thanks

[Jaguartvr]

If you have some of the original paint you should be able to do a small local repair. The problem is normally blending in the paint.
Very poor bit of painting, I would take it back and insist on it being put right. That is a bodge, did you pay for a bodge?
I presume it's the drivers door, which means you are going to notice it every time you get in the car, its going to bug the hell out of you.

If there is some paint left over that you can use, then I wouldn't have expected it to cost more than £50 to put right.

[andysharrock]

find an other paint shop that comes recommended and is known for painting fiberglass then name and shame the old one so we don't use them , its and easy fix for someone in the know If your anywhere near me I would recommend the guys that do my cars . good luck

[WorldClassAccident]

Smash - I think you are somewhere near Southampton as I believe it was your car I saw parked up at the Sports Centre.

I live close to the General Hospital. Next time you are in the area let me know and I will show you my car and you can assess the paint job. The front end was done by one paint shop and the other end by another paint shop.

If you like either end I can tell you who painted it.

If you don't like either end I can tell you who to avoid.

When looking at the paint please remember that I drive the car hard, regularly and at least the back half is a two year old paint job.

I will be visiting another local body shop on Saturday so might have an update after that

[WorldClassAccident]

Just realised - yours is the convertible so not thew one I parked next to. Given you are based in Essex I guess paint shops local to Southampton aren't that relevant

[smash]

Thanks WCA - appreciate the offer but yes, in Essex

@JaguarTVR - there was a paint tin left in the footwell but it's pretty much empty. The builder is 100 miles away from me so if you're right and actually I'm only looking at 50-100 or whatever then not actually worth taking it back as we're talking 600 miles in 2 separate cars to take back and collect. I must say I've had a kind offer from a 3rd party to help rectify which is very appreciated.

[WorldClassAccident]

I must say I've had a kind offer from a 3rd party to help rectify which is very appreciated.

Lets hope they do a better job than I am about to do on mine...

... going to start on the dent : http://www.madabout-kitcars.com/foru...ead.php?t=5925

:-)

[Lucky@LeMans]

You could try one of the "chips away" companies . They are very good at small localised repaires and they will come to you , give you a price and do the repair on site. A mate had some work done on his Mercedes , it was very good quality and all done in a couple of hours.

[ThatAmericanChap]

Originally Posted by Jaguartvr

Very poor bit of painting, I would take it back and insist on it being put right.

With all due respect (to the fact that the first part of this statement is true: when a panel is hard-masked, with no attempt on the painter's part to allow for blending in, and with breaking edges by overuse of a buffer, orbiter or MOP, it is, indeed a "very poor bit of painting..."), the second part of the above - "I would take it back and insist on it being put right," might prove unwise. Even discounting the travel time and cetera, you're beginning with the premise that a craftsman who's already cut corners and made a botch of it might re-do the job properly the second time (though Smash's assertion that the fellow won't agree to it anyway makes it rather moot.

In every event - as the painter's broken into the original basecoat, it will - after the hard paint line has been knocked down and dealt with - need recoating with clear, assuming the basecoat's still whole when you've set the problem right. If you've worked with Trizact abrasives, silicon carbide lapping films or MicroMesh cloths, and have a fairly good "touch" you might manage it without breaking through the black entirely (using a bluetape "bridge" just behind the sharp paint line will give you a fighting chance, as it will fend off your sanding block's desire to break into the topcoat by rocking over the botched line), but to be frank, it's a good deal less work overall simply to deck the repair down, blow it in and topcoat it, and then rub it out properly once it's set up. A good painter will be cautious in top-coating, using just a bit more additive in the 2K, a little more thinners, and a drop of fish eye reducer to leave a well-cured film that can be rubbed out in pretty short order. I'd guess that the result would be far more pleasing than a spot repair, and will give you the peace of mind of having been done properly, with no corners cut.

Cautionary opinion: (and this is solely personal opinion) a painter who's so concerned with overspray that he hard masks against jambs or part-paints panels is either unwilling to do the (rather small amount of) cleanup work to blend the paint together (and with modern polymerised topcoats and a bit of fussing with the hardener and thinners ratios, the clean-up time is truly very short), or he's insufficiently conversant with finish applications. And no - that's not simply a pleasant way of saying that he's either lazy or ignorant.

Wait a moment... yes it is.

Best of luck with sorting this out, Smash.

.

[smash]

Oh my god - here we go - this has appeared on the boot.

It wasn't there when I cleaned the car yesterday - went out for 3 mile drive then covered the car over. Just uncovered it and notice this - if you lightly brush your nail over it you can feel it dip in the line. It almost looks like the paint sinks into it - it's not a scratch. I have a horrible feeling it's a stress crack as something similar appeared in the bonnet before it was repainted.

It looks thin in the picture but in real life you can see it's like a sunken line.



You can hear the boot lip hit the body going over bumps - would this cause it?

Man oh man

[Jaguartvr]

None of the other 250swb seem to have suffered the same problems.

[smash]

The white line isn't there in real life - the camera has picked up the light in the 'valley' for want of a better word - it looks in real life like the very right end of the line where it goes dark by the edge of the phone reflection.

[Jeff H]

Scott,

You could possibly get away with a local repair on the rear wing, as the Lacquer is still fairly fresh it may blend in ok using a decent fade out thinner.

The problem that can sometimes happen is if it is polished back to aggressively you can some times cut an edge back, a decent wax can some times hide this.

I, and nearly all the paint shops i have worked at tend to scotch brite the whole panel and lacquer completely, we tend to blend out on the thinnest parts of panels, usually up windscreen pillars and round the corners of bumpers etc.

Not sure what the issue is on the boot lid, it does really need to be held down properly as glass on glass will only rub thru at quite a rate.

[smash]

Thanks for all advice. most appreciated.

Think I've found the issue with the boot - it's not contacting the rubber seal.

When I opened the boot it was soaking wet inside after trip home from Stoneleigh and then I noticed that with the boot completely shut, you can see through past boot lip by rear deck into the boot - the rubber is about a 1cm away from touching the boot at the widest gap. The seal on the rubber that has been fitted is basically way too small.

So I need a bigger rubber that will support the boot and then leave it for a while - see if anything else develops and look at repainting further down the line.

TBH post Stoneleigh I owed £200 for MOT and contribution to front end repaint (carried out for stress crack on wing but they did sort the damage done to the mouth at the same time) but am with holding payment due to all the above plus other snagging issues.

[Jaguartvr]

£200 should cover the door and boot paint. I would give it a month to see if there are any other problems that appear before having the paint done.
"Woolies" do a good selection of rubber seals, maybe they can help with the boot seal.
Did you find a solution to the petrol filler pipe? I am thinking I may go for a smaller cap and mount it on top of the wing to allow some more space from the bend.

[smash]

Yeah - I think there's a lot to be said for running a car in gelcoat for a while before painting.

The last thoughts on the filler hose were weld up a mitre'd 90 degree elbow pipe rather than bend - not perfect for flow but would fit in the tight space and once you'd got the fuel flowing it'd be fine.

I have to get inside the passenger door next to un-jam the exterior door handle (it came back with the push button jammed solid) - any tips?!

[Jaguartvr]

Is there a key slot in the passenger side? It could be that the locking part has moved slightly, partially locking it. I can only suggest putting the key and gently wiggling it, maybe with the door open and the inside door release in the open position in case the "push" has stuck on the added plate.
Other than that No2 hammer, although it might add slightly to the paint bill.
What was the quality of the door handles like? I know you fitted the expensive original style ones but high price often doesn't mean good quality.

If you have a mitred joint in the fuel filler would the filler nozzle keep cutting out due to the fuel splashing back up?
I notice on Eric's build that he has his filler in-between yours and the original. It doesn't look so good but might be a better compromise. I hate slow pumps in petrol stations.
Anyone else come up with a good solution?

[casamolino]

Morning Scott please see attached photo showing size of the rubber seal on the boot on my car , is yours significantly different? Geoff .

[Jaguartvr]

With the door handle, I presume that it has been bolted only to the outer grp skin. Do you know if holes were drilled into the inner skin so you can remove the handle from the inside of the original door or will you have to remove the skin to get to the bolts which could of course result in more paint damage.
I am intending to fit the Mini handles but am all to aware that on these cheap report parts the chrome plating could start to fail after only a short time. At least if you buy a second hand pair that are 30 years old they will probably still look the same in the next 10 years.

[smash]

Will check when I get home - cheers Geoff. It did have a much thicker rubber fitted during build as builder commented on it and you could see it squeezing into the recess when boot closed. Can only think it was changed to 'look good' for show possibly.

JaguarTVR - the handles are very nice quality, I think you can get tehm for £150 on ebay from a guy in Italy. The builder cleverly swapped the barrels so the lock is on the drivers side - so this may well be something to do with it.

The door skins are neatly bolted on so (in theory) I should be able to get in without any eternal signs