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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Sammio Builds and discussions

Sammio Builds and discussions Sammio bodied car builds and specials

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  #21  
Old 15th October 2012, 14:58
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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For your reference, the frame Gary supplies fits something like this at each side at the back :


The flat angle iron should run parallel with the chassis and sit on the door sill (which you don't need to remove).

The front of the frame sits on the top of the bulkhead and the side of the foot well. Make sure you don't cut too much off or you will have to create a patch to cover the mistake (spotting a pattern?)


You do need to cut the bodywork down quite a bit, look at the fuel filler pipe in the picture below. If you can, I strongly suggest that you cut a bit, offer the body up, cut a bit, offer the body up etc etc etc



Good luck and lots of pictures please. Looks like my ankle is a write off for at least 6 months :-( on the bright side, if i do lose my foot there will be a cheap G46 donor up for sale soon!


Just spotted MrTowed's comment about strapping in the car and how far it pulls the body in. The first photo shows the body with the strap ratchetted around it. The front of the rear wheel arch just touches what remains of the outside of the old rear arch. I actually left the exterior edge of the wheel arch in place. The second photo shows the rear of the rear wheel arch while ratchetted still requiring my toe to push is against the old out aarch.


[img]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-yVtEP7vtfvI/UE4spabHnVI/AAAAAAAADBk/hl1nAvwAQ3A/s800/2012-09-
10%252018.18.03.jpg[/img]


For reference to how much wheel arch I left in place look at one of the first photos I posted on the thread and you can see the white body work remaining. I trimmed it a little from that.

Last edited by WorldClassAccident; 15th October 2012 at 15:25..
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  #22  
Old 15th October 2012, 17:46
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HouseMartin HouseMartin is offline
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Guys,
Thanks for all the feedback an illustrations with pictures. It helps considerably and reading about and seeing your build just creates a clearer vision of what i have ahead.like WCA advises I will be cutting a little and trial fitting alot.
CT, It is certainly great fun cutting up and taking photos of a classic design.
Yes I am taking the approach of cutting off bits and see if the panels fit over. I may end up with the same shape as everyone else, but it is an experiment I want to try out.
The thinking out cutting the door aperture was that I could slide the rear body on and see what it looks like with the windsreen still in place.
If I cut in the midde of the lower cill, I will be joining again on the lower metal framework shown in WCA pictures so have solid support to help rebonding.
Obviously the lower part of the cill will be alot of work as you say, is it worth it for a few photos when Gaz is getting me an aero screen anyway?
WCA I have printed out your image and will stick it to the boot floor as my guide for the rear end cutting, thanks mate.
Looking at the last couple of picture why has LL not make use of the exiting chasis to attach the new metal work? Is it to keep within the IVA rules, stop possible corrosion or make the removal of the body easier?

e-type - I knew it reminded me of another car. Now how can I get that V12 under the bonnet?

HM
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  #23  
Old 15th October 2012, 18:11
GazDavies GazDavies is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HouseMartin View Post
e-type - I knew it reminded me of another car. Now how can I get that V12 under the bonnet?
It looks like you have had a Jaguar on top of the bonnet.

Its great to see your progress, keep up the good work!
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  #24  
Old 15th October 2012, 18:22
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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I am not sure why the frame sits on the sill and not the chassis. I think it is as much to do with the door height as anything. The doors are just stretched 550 ones. If he made the frame reach down to the chassis then the doors would be too deep.

If you look at the flat angle bit there are three holes drilled on each side at the front, middle and back. I am thinking that I will bolt a separate bracket to each of these that will then sit on the chassis.

This should brace the frame nicely and let me run the wiring loom to the back of the car and from the battery (now sited in the rear foot well) in the gap between the exterior body work and under the flat angle frame. I will then fix an access panel to get at the wire if I need it.

At the moment I have the wires all running along the transmission tunnel but that is not ideal when trying to trim the inside.

Don't worry about photos with the screen in place if it is a hassle, the one you have taken shows it well enough. I just need to work out how to build the frame to take the glass and decide how much to either cut off the top or bury in the bodywork at the bottom.
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  #25  
Old 17th October 2012, 17:46
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HouseMartin HouseMartin is offline
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[QUOTE=GazDavies;36236]It looks like you have had a Jaguar on top of the bonnet.QUOTE]
I have 4 cats taking a keen interest in the progress.
They just love the runing their paws over those curves.

If I get to the painting stage they will be confined to their quarters.
HM
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  #26  
Old 19th October 2012, 14:44
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Default Bonnet height

Guys, I want to cut up the donors front end this weekend.
Would be be kind enough to get your tape measures out and let me know how far the lower edge of the G46 front intake is from the ground? (When body is on the chasis and the chasis is on its wheels).
I suspect that CT's will be lower given his fixed bonnet.
Cheers
HM
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  #27  
Old 19th October 2012, 17:33
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Mine is tucked up in the garage on ramps so raised off the ground with the bonnet resting over the rear humps and I am about go ahead for the weekend so sorry, no.
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  #28  
Old 19th October 2012, 17:35
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Charman.tech Charman.tech is offline
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Default Heights above

Quote:
Originally Posted by HouseMartin View Post
Guys, I want to cut up the donors front end this weekend.
Would be be kind enough to get your tape measures out and let me know how far the lower edge of the G46 front intake is from the ground? (When body is on the chasis and the chasis is on its wheels).
I suspect that CT's will be lower given his fixed bonnet.
Cheers
HM

HM

On all four wheels with engine and gear box in place and on 14" tyres and the original springs the under side of the front valance at the centre is 150 mm above the ground.

To the open bottom edge of the guppy mouth it measures 240 mm.

It all looks low, but absolutely perfect for the stance of the car, we are going to have shorter springs but large wheels so it will end up about this height.

Remember there is a lot of weight in the body of the old scimitar that won't be there in the end.

We are going to fit softer springs to our car because the height off the ground remains identical whether the engine and gear box plus two people are in or out. It could also be that our engine & box is considerably lighter than the Essex V6 & box.

Someone told us that the nickname for the Essex V6 is a "Boat Anchor"

Trolley jacks are an issue a standard jack only just gets under the 150 mm clearance and you wouldn't want to be pushing one under once it's painted so a LW ali racing jack with shallow end is essential.

Hope that helps.

CT
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  #29  
Old 19th October 2012, 22:19
andrewhush andrewhush is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HouseMartin View Post
Guys, I want to cut up the donors front end this weekend.
Would be be kind enough to get your tape measures out and let me know how far the lower edge of the G46 front intake is from the ground? (When body is on the chasis and the chasis is on its wheels).
I suspect that CT's will be lower given his fixed bonnet.
Cheers
HM
Hi HM

Sorry, the bonnet is stored away for the moment while the bonding/bulkhead work is going on. Here are a couple of earlier photos with the body propped up over the chassis. The bonnet is resting on the spare wheel (185/80/15) with approx 1/2" packing between the tyre and the underside of the bonnet. The main body tub is positioned so that the join between the bonnet and the body is lined up using the moulding line at the rear of the bonnet and the moulded recess on the body. The body side sills where they curl inwards are just about level with the underside of the chassis side rails.

Hope this helps.

Andrew


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  #30  
Old 20th October 2012, 00:16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WorldClassAccident View Post
Mine is tucked up in the garage on ramps so raised off the ground with the bonnet resting over the rear humps and I am about go ahead for the weekend so sorry, no.
Gwa thanks for the reply, have a good weekend and take care of that foot. Hopefully have some photos for you on your return
Cheers
Hm
CT and ah thanks for the info at such short notice
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  #31  
Old 21st October 2012, 23:24
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Default Only half a job

Well I manged to cut a little more of the front of the donor.
Cut away the front and removed the front bumpers channel and suporting metal work


Still leaving the front inner wheel arches in place


Cut off the outer lips of the existing wheel arches to help side the bonnet over easier


So now the top of the top edge of the lower lip of air intake is 28cm above grond level 4mm higher than CT's.
The lower edge of the bonnet is now at the same height as lower edge of the original scimitar lower front valance .
The 4cm difference can be due to the car now sitting heigher with no doors, glass, bumpers and other bits and peices


The bonnet was sitting on the top of the water overflow bottle, so it was removed and will have to be repositioned on the final build.








Don't go any further LL!













I could not resist the idea of fitting the rear end while the existing windscreen is still in place. So I know i will regret this in future, but I made the kit into a 3 piece rather than a 2 piece


A litttle bit of proping of the front roof let me remove a section of the roll over bars so I could slide the rear of the kit over the door aperture.
However I ran out of time and daylight to get the back fitted correctly.
It will have to wait until next weekend for the finished view.


I can't wait to see how awful it looks.

HM
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  #32  
Old 22nd October 2012, 08:35
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Great work HM. You've got some good ideas going on and I'm sure they will pay off. One thing that stands out for me is that, although you are no doubt going to cut it off, the retention of the screen and partial roof shows me that of all the Sammio models, the G46 is one that could stand the proportions of a hard top, possibly only for a 'no hump' shell!
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  #33  
Old 22nd October 2012, 10:22
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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I think even with the cut bodyshell you might need to get a lower fit than in this picture:


Andy - If I ever walk again I will be sticking some kind of roof on a double humper so watch this space...
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  #34  
Old 2nd December 2012, 20:20
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Default Slow progress

Not much activity on the G46 recently due to a very draughtly garage and lots of rain.
However the wind and rain ceased this weekend so I wrapped up warm,
but kept popong back in the house for warm tea between activity on the car.
i had seen photo of ferrari with a mid mounted wing and wonders if the G46 would suit this addition.



So I grabbed the old roof to see if it was possible.



Not inspiring!

I had not moved the car since removing the lights and cutting the bonnet and boot on the donar.
As my drive is uphill pushing the G46 out of the garage was not possible so I was keen to see if the engine would still start.
I removed all the fuses to prevent any short circuits, fortunately the starter and coil feed are not fused on the Se5 donar, so I cranked it over a few times.
However the battery gave up turning the engine over as it filled the fuel pipes and carb.
No to be diverted I borrowed the battery from the other scimitar.
And yes it started and drove up the drive, but i suspect i will need a new filter soon given the amount of dust in the engine compartment.

So here are some photos with the old scimitar screen in place.




I still have to drop the rear a little more so the G46 arches side inside the donar arches, about an inch off the top of old body should do it.
That should get the door bottom parallel to the ground.
The rear of the car is setting very high and the raduis arms are point downwards.
I need much shorter springs possible by as much as 2-3inches!

The old windscreen comes off next.

I have found a source for a 356 screen, so really need to know if Gaz will be getting the full aero screens made soon.

Snow forecast tonight so i better get the g46 back under cover

HM
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  #35  
Old 3rd December 2012, 18:36
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I actually quite like it with the screen. About three inches of the top of the screen and you would have a very usable car!
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  #36  
Old 5th December 2012, 16:30
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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That picture is the first I have seen where the G46 looks short. I guess it is the break in the bodywork that does it.

Keep up the good work and keep up the pictures
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  #37  
Old 5th December 2012, 16:32
oxford1360 oxford1360 is offline
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Does anybody else think that with the screen as it is, it looks like an MX5 on steroids?
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  #38  
Old 5th December 2012, 16:35
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Yep, that's what I was thinking. It has got to be the photo because the g46 is certainly not short

I was actually thinking Fiat Barchetta
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  #39  
Old 5th December 2012, 19:31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WorldClassAccident View Post
Yep, that's what I was thinking. It has got to be the photo because the g46 is certainly not short

I was actually thinking Fiat Barchetta
I agree WCA, maybe the high back seats are confusing the eye about the length of the rear body.

You should try to wedge the scimitar screen on your kit with the 2 humps and take a photo.

HM
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  #40  
Old 6th December 2012, 17:57
WorldClassAccident WorldClassAccident is offline
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Mine is all wrapped up at the moment as there is not too much I can do with a crutch in each hand.

I reckon it is the back seats that cause the brain to re-scale the car. You brain assumes hey are front seats and then makes you think the size fits the proportions between the screen and seats.

I thought they were front seats sitting high.
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