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Go Back   Madabout Kitcars Forum > Mad Build Area > Italian Replica builds and chat

Italian Replica builds and chat Lamborghini, Ferrari, Lancia, any Italian replica car build and chat

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  #421  
Old 10th January 2021, 12:13
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
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I'm thinking of finishing my Formosa in the same way. Whilst much of the TR was bare aluminium a fair bit was painted but you wouldn't know. I found some paint that was an exact match looking like rough ali !
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  #422  
Old 10th January 2021, 12:34
kevemm kevemm is offline
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Default 250tr

Excellent will be interesting to see
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  #423  
Old 11th January 2021, 07:19
Mick O'Malley Mick O'Malley is offline
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4 Bis Rue de Ripoff, more like. First reg '57? They're having a laugh!

Regards, Mick
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  #424  
Old 11th January 2021, 16:55
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peterux peterux is offline
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No disrespect to the builder but the lies in this advert are unbelivable and clearly in breach of the website.

Example text from the advert......

Description and History

The Ferrari offered here is an exact reproduction of a 250 TR with Scaglietti body. The Italian firm Giordanengo; with nearly 30 years of experience, has a reputation of being one of the best in the world in building Ferrari recreations. To build this car, the brilliant craftsmen of Giordanengo handcrafted an alloy body around a tubular steel chassis. Every effort was made to meet the proper specifications, so that the rebuild was virtually indistinguishable. of the authentic. This replica, owned by an English industrialist, is not finished. Indeed, the latter had done step by step the reconstruction of this replica but could not carry out his project following a fatal illness.
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  #425  
Old 11th January 2021, 17:14
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
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I think the dealer is the third owner since I sold it. The story has changed or been embellished and some of the facts have changed along the way. Apparently I am writing this from the grave !
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  #426  
Old 11th January 2021, 17:40
kjn47 kjn47 is offline
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Hi, can you please let me know more about the drape moulding technique for the headlamp covers and windscreen? Any advice would be appreciated. Kevin
👍
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  #427  
Old 11th January 2021, 18:37
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
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Anyone who wants to know more about what happened to the original Ferrari chassis that was under the 250 TR before the body was cut up and removed needs to watch this video. From about 12.30 in, all is explained !

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aouiOxqcdA

Also the story of chassis 0611GT with before and after details

https://www.forza-mag.com/issues/179...a-with-a-twist

Last edited by Lucky@LeMans; 13th January 2021 at 08:59..
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  #428  
Old 11th January 2021, 21:03
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjn47 View Post
Hi, can you please let me know more about the drape moulding technique for the headlamp covers and windscreen? Any advice would be appreciated. Kevin
👍
It is quite a simple process. You need to make a male mould of the shape you want to make, I made mine from wood with a skim of body filler over the top. The surface finish needs to be smooth and blemish free.
Make a wooden frame a couple of inches bigger than the mould to hold the plastic sheet. The plastic sheet can be screwed to the frame with self tappers every couple of inches.
Heat in your oven at around 160c until you can see the plastic start to sag then quickly take it out and press it firmly over your mould.
Hold it down long enough until it begins to cool and it will hold the shape.
I used 3mm perspex but you also use polycarbonate.
There is an element of trial and error but its quite easy to do.
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  #429  
Old 11th January 2021, 22:54
molleur molleur is offline
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I also cover the mould surface with felt fabric to prevent scratching the polycarbonate which is softer than the perspex. 160C is a great temperature for both.
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  #430  
Old 12th January 2021, 06:15
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Mister Towed Mister Towed is offline
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I heard that Donald Trump owned it but the Democrats stole it from him. Like seriously, Dude, it's true and sh*t. I read it on Twitter. Rise up! RISE UP!
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  #431  
Old 12th January 2021, 12:33
kjn47 kjn47 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by molleur View Post
I also cover the mould surface with felt fabric to prevent scratching the polycarbonate which is softer than the perspex. 160C is a great temperature for both.
Thank you for this. Itís really very helpful. Kevin
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  #432  
Old 20th January 2021, 10:38
kjn47 kjn47 is offline
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Default 250tr 1960 tr59/60

Hello again,

I am planning on building a Ferrari 250TR/TR59/60 the Fantuzzi bodied car which shares the same width and wheelbase and track as your 250TR. I have had a 3D model created based on blueprint and photographic reference that is quite accurate. I intend to have a Styrofoam full-size model produced of the car from which I am going to make a one off body.
I was considering using a TVR Tasmin but I think the chassis may require too many alterations?
Can you let me know what alterations to the width of the Locost 7 you had to make in order to fit your body. If you retained the dimensions of the Locost chassis that would be most helpful. Iíve tried looking on the Internet but could not find such detailed information. Also did you require any wheel spacers?
I look forward to hearing from you when you have a moment.
Kind regards
Kevin
Shropshire UK
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  #433  
Old 20th January 2021, 12:59
Lucky@LeMans Lucky@LeMans is offline
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Looks like a great project. The Locost chassis wasn't modified, the track and wheel base were correct. The driving position was very short but that was due to tiny cockpit area governed by the body shape. If designing from scratch you might want to increase the space inside a little. No wheel spacers fitted but the hub adaptors do increase the track a little. Luckily on my car it all fell into position.
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  #434  
Old 20th January 2021, 15:03
kjn47 kjn47 is offline
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Thank you for your response. I will keep you updated.👍
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  #435  
Old 20th January 2021, 15:11
molleur molleur is offline
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Kevin, why Styrofoam?
Urethane foam is much easier to work and compatible with polyester resins.
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  #436  
Old 20th January 2021, 15:30
kjn47 kjn47 is offline
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Thank you for this suggestion. What coating do you have to use before applying polyurethane resins?
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  #437  
Old 20th January 2021, 15:31
kjn47 kjn47 is offline
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Thank you for the suggestion. What coating do you have to use before applying polyurethane resin and matting etc?
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  #438  
Old 20th January 2021, 15:46
molleur molleur is offline
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that would depend upon if you intend to make a mould or simply a male one-off body which will require a lot of post-finishing.
If making a mould, a very fine finish is needed. Should you make your body buck and use it as a final product, it will be much more labor intensive to finish. Send me a PM for a more detailed and lengthy explanation.
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  #439  
Old 8th February 2021, 16:52
rossnzwpi rossnzwpi is offline
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https://rqriley.com/fiberglass-over-foam/
Robert Q. Riley describes using polyurethane foam - which has a very fine grain and is not melted by standard polyester fibreglass resin. Polyurethane foam used to be readily available in insulation supply companies - I'm not sure if it still is.
Polystyrene foam is much more coarse and doesn't cut or sand in the same way. You can use a different, more expensive fibreglass resin (epoxy) to avoid melting polystyrene.
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  #440  
Old 8th February 2021, 17:17
molleur molleur is offline
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Should you choose to use polystyrene foam, the extra expense of epoxy resins may be avoided by (after shaping) coating the plug with latex house paint, several coats. Them applying mould release wax and PVA
to the surface. This prevents polyester resins from attacking the styrene
foam. PITA to remove the polystyrene foam should some stick to the part (some will). Easily removed with acetone in a squirt bottle. The acetone will dissolve the foam quickly. Recently did this on three complicated fiberglass parts. PITA in all.
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